I am surprised there is so much confusion on this. Also the ligted switches I install the pilot is not always on, they only light when the fixture is off.

Yep, your right. But it still is an indicator. It's really a find in the dark mode.

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Originally Posted by ballengerb1

Andrew, i think you made an error here."switch 1 up switch 2 up = light on
switch 1 down switch 2 down = light off
" The first statement can be true but #2 is the error. If both up the light is on the moment you move one switch down the light is off, move the other switch down the light comes back on. In a 3 way each switch reverses the last action of the other switch. There is no ON/OFF even labeled on a 3 way switch.

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Very possible, I sort of lost myself about half way through that... LOL

If every switch is positioned down and light is off, and every switch is operated up for on, then down for off, without using 3 way-4way as intended for the convenience of controlling lights on or off from multiple locations, then the OP may be happy.

Once someone uses a second switch to trun a light off,leaving the first switch that turned the light on in the up position, then the switch handle issue of having all the handles down and lights off went right out the window.

Certainly not intending any offense to anyone, unless a person has a severe case of Obsessive Compulsive Disorder, ( I have mild case) and this switch handle issue is a something that would cause a OCD sufferer real distress, this topic is silly, quite frankly.

The customer I had that wanted this corrected, finally did admit that she did suffer from OCD, after I spent the time in showing her that unless all the switches are operated on and off individually. Once someone that is unaware of the switches must be operated alone, she saw that the switch positions will change.

For anyone that this is a serious issue, there are switching systems, such as low voltage or power line carrier devices, that do not have indicating positions that may disturb someone.

As far as pilot light in switch handles, both styles are made, on when light is on, and on when light is off.

When you have Floods, Lights and other items switched from Various Locations in Large Houses(Very Large Houses), It is Nice to go to All Switch Banks, throw all switches down and not have to keep checking if the lights went back on. You may be turning back on from another location.
Even though stairs are constantly swapping, I still turn last switch, so when all switches are down, lights are Off? IMOO

Perhaps a push button system is the answer. I myself can be a bit obsessive about things. My wife has helped to back off a little over the years. It still bugs me when furniture is crooked. Swithes bother me a little, but I figure, "what are you going to do"?

If I were in a situation where I had to have a uniform switching system, then I would consider a push button system. I'm not sure about code acceptance, but the plan would work. And you could use 2 switches to as many as you want.

Consider the diagram below, granted, most people wouldn't go through this amount of trouble for a ighting circuit, but you never know when you may need to wire up a "latching circuit".

Good for for starting large machinery from several locations.
Note: For high amp situations, replace the relay with a contactor with a side switch.

You could use a Latching relay with just 1 pushbutton, push on/push off, Parallel to as many switches as you like.

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Originally Posted by Stratmando

You could use a Latching relay with just 1 pushbutton, push on/push off, Parallel to as many switches as you like.

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True, with a latching relay, the possibilties are endless!

In the 70's I started using the Volkswagen Headlight Relay(mechanically Latching)
A Momentary pull of the signal switch toggled between High and Low beam. Great For Large boats requiring 3 way switching, a momentary press of a button with small control wiring also saved a little weight?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stratmando

In the 70's I started using the Volkswagen Headlight Relay(mechanically Latching)
A Momentary pull of the signal switch toggled between High and Low beam. Great For Large boats requiring 3 way switching, a momentary press of a button with small control wiring also saved a little weight?

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You know, I thought about this answer a little, and I'm curious, how does that type of button work anyway? I too have seen them here and there, but I've never seen a diagram for it.

Do you have one?

Push button on, push same button off

Back then it was a Large Rectangular Metal can, almost 2" long, the new ones are the square cube.
You can Make an alarm circuit with one that draws no power except except when in alarm condition(I made this circuit because of this relay), an a need.
This has to be a Normally open circuit, so when circuit closes relay, putting power to the other pole. You will have an armed LED and a Disarm LED, 1 led on each pole, and in series with the LED/resistor you have a reed switch, can be up near wind shield, so with vehicle closed you can place magnet near reed switch to lite 1 LED to show what state it is in(red/green), this is not the arm switch.
A Hidden Reed switch can also Arm/Disarm.

Hey... I think attempting to have all the toggles in a particular position to have the light off or on would defeat the purpose of aving the intemediate switching.. dont you think?? U know you now av to walk to 2 separate banks of switches "probably in the dark" to ensure the toggles are in a particular position!. I think what is to be born in mind here is that the change of position of any 1 toggle could change the state of all the other toggles... ie from n/o to n/c and vice versa... but don't let it wreck great minds and just use these switches for the purpose it was designed for... ie... to alleviate having to cross a huge corridor , climb a staircase or walk across a room.. in the dark to reach the switch!!

OK guys... I assume all this is in da USA.. rite.. n certainly, the code of practise is different than in SA... but the theory that a lot the guys are trying out here is based on 2 pole swiches... back in SA a 3 pole would be used at the beginning and end of the switched circuit and 4 pole intermediate would be used in between... 2 strapper conductors would be looped from switch to switch with the control wire emanating from centre pole of 1 of the 3 pole switches... and a constant live feeding the centre pole at the other end.. ie 3 pole switch... every 3pole switch would av 2 positions at any given time i.e. n/o & n/c between the 3 poles irrespective of the position of the toggle... and your 4 pole would have 2 n/o & 2 n/o at any given... so it makes you think.. eh?. but I guess da USA does it differently with relays etc.. (judging by some of the sketches).. I mean guys... a relay to handle a couple of lites..?

Electric wiz, I would do as I first said, No relays, All down is off, very simple, I was bored as Andrew and was just waiting for a response, just talking about a relay, not really practicble for a House..

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Originally Posted by Stratmando

Electric wiz, I would do as I first said, No relays, All down is off, very simple, I was bored as Andrew and was just waiting for a response, just talking about a relay, not really practicble for a House..

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I agree, most of the past few post were just fun electrical talk.

Electrical Wiz, looks like we use different Terms over here, We call those switches 3 ways(or single pole, doublethrow), What you call Strappers, we call Travellers.
Our 4 ways "sound" different as well, its not 2 N.O. switches, it actually swaps the wires, like a polarity switch.
The question from the Poster was, "was it OK to turn a switch upside down for personal preference".
We all know its OK, some feel its not as Important.