Don't know. Scratching my head like you. You wiring is correct, assuming that exposed outlet and wiring will eventually be in a box. Incorrect wiring would either trip breaker or outlet and lights would not work.Got to look some where else for problem. Suggest taking outlet out and capping wires to see if that makes a difference. Lights are not connected yet are they? You have unusal problem. Try to physically isolate it.

Only see green ground wire on one switch.

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Originally Posted by hkstroud

Don't know. Scratching my head like you. You wiring is correct, assuming that exposed outlet and wiring will eventually be in a box. Incorrect wiring would either trip breaker or outlet and lights would not work.Got to look some where else for problem. Suggest taking outlet out and capping wires to see if that makes a differance. Lights are not connected yet are they? You have unusal problem. Try to physically isolate it.

Only see green ground wire on one switch.

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*** yes one gr on switch as combined all grounds... did not seem to make a difference as I had one ground on each switch and still had the problem. I am guessing I should have a ground on each switch connection? Yes, all exposed wiring will be in box - just having to dig down 18" everywhere and then re-feed 12G wire. So I am cool w/15amp breaker at box? Also, breaker never trips to off, rather the GFCI 'trip's and I have to reset. Yes lights are connected. Like shared... lights work on one switch fine... outlet works fine on other switch. Just can't operate both switches at same time... this appears to be only issue as the tester says outlet connections are fine. I have tried all I can... hence resorting to this site/thread help. I am confident some master elec. Is out there w/a simple remedy! Lol. I appreciate your help and input. If u think of an answer/suggestion, Let me know ASAP. Thx.

Don't think you ar going to find it by logic.
Suggest the following.
Remove outlet. Test switches. GFI does not trip, its outlet. GFI trips, reconnect outlet using temporary wire to switch. GFI does not trip its wiring to outlet. GFI trips, do same thing to each light separately. Going to take that kind of isolation.

You said in an earlier answer you had 2 sets ofwire going down the right side conduit. The picture I see looks like only one black/white/ground going down. What is the wire that is coming into the back of you 2gang switch box? This wire does not look like the uf underground grey that you've been using.What does it go to?

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Originally Posted by jerro

you said in an earlier answer you had 2 sets ofwire going down the right side conduit. The picture I see looks like only one black/white/ground going down. What is the wire that is coming into the back of you 2gang switch box? This wire does not look like the uf underground grey that you've been using.What does it go to?

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*** Hi Jerro... thanks. Please see additional post/info... should answer your questions. Any help would be appreciated. Thx.

These pics should help! Any corrections or input so I can operate both switches together w/o tripping GFCI would be appreciated! Thx.

Okay, I have several questions concerning picture #2;

The feed from the first picture is shown in picture 2 as "A", correct?
If this is a true statement, then the incoming feed line is not
Connected properly. The feed wire should be pigtailed with one wire
For each of the switches. What I see there is a three wire pigtail with
The source (feed) line going to the top of the switch and the
(switched leg going into the pigtail that feeds the other two switches.

What I would expect to see is the feed line "Hot" pigtailed to the
Supply wires for each of the three switches. One wire would go to
Each of the switches. I prefer to use the supply lines on the bottom of
The switch. The switched leg would connect to the top switch and
Feed the device to be energized. It doesn't matter which wire goes
Where, but I prefer to us the bottom as input to the switch and the
Top as out flow from the switch.

You need to run a black /White/Ground to each device you want the
Switch to control. Do not connect the white wires to the switches.
Pigtail the feed white to the returning whites from the devices.

Do you have a multi meter or Ohm meter to verify the connections as
You make them?

From what you said and the photos your wiring sounds correct. The first thing I would try is to unplug your security transformer you have plugged into the gfi and see what happens when you turn both switches on. If that is not the problem then take both black wires going to lights and new recept and put on one switch and see if that trips the gfi. If that trips. Take the new recept off and cap each wire separately and separate the spliced wires you spliced close to new recept and cap each wire separately and see if this trips gfi when you turn on switches. If it does then you most likely nicked both wires somewhere between the switches and the new recept.

I would test each light post on the load side of GFI separately, to be sure fixture not getting a neutral elsewhere, and there is no ground fault.
Then Install switches(switches will not cause the problem).
Then have the gfi pigtailed from the power feeding through, so only the receptacle is protected. Light don't have to be.
I would determine the problem, each load separately.
Maybe open the light fixtures and make sure bulb shell gets power from hot and neutral, not ground or connected to ground.

Cwbuddy, I just saw in your 10:58 6/1/09 post that shows the neutral separated from the other neutrals.
ALL lights(loads) MUST use either hot and neutral on line side OR load side. Your neutrals need to be tied together.
Your close.

Hi everyone... thank you sooo much for the effort and info. In posts. Well... for all of us scratching our heads, the problem is now solved! YIPPEE! Anyone want to know how? :) lol... Well I never knew GFCI outlets come in 15 and 20 amp versions (thought all were the same!). I went on a HDepot run and someone posed this as an idea. The orig. GFCI in the garage came w/the house and all was fine - before I started my project. HOWEVER, me adding 2 lights on pillars and the new 110 outlet evidently 'upped' the overall amps.

In short, I switched out the GFCI outlet in the garage... to a 20 amp one. FYI - Either the one in there was only a 15 amp one or it was a 20 amp but faulty. I am guessing it was a 15 because it tripped/worked fine before my project. This wiring situation was driving me crazy, but switching out the garage GFCI seems to have resolved the issue. So my wiring was correct as pictured so it would seem. Now, both switches work independently AND I can now have both switches on at the same time w/o tripping the GFCI (unlike before)! Great! Anyway... thanks. Again for everyone's time, effort, and help. Just wanted to let you know I had success thanks. To your input and stirring my thoughts to think both outside and inside the box... literally and figuratively. Perhaps this experience/info. Will help someone else in their electrical/home project endeavors. Sure would save major time and heartache... trust me! :) All the best.

Wait a moment!

You need to make absolutely sure that all the wires starting at the new breaker through to the end of the circuit are all 12AWG wires.

You cannot place a 20 amp breaker on 14 AWG (15 amp) wire. It is a fire hazard!

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Originally Posted by donf

Wait a moment!

You need to make absolutely sure that all the wires starting at the new breaker through to the end of the circuit are all 12AWG wires.

You cannot place a 20 amp breaker on 14 AWG (15 amp) wire. It is a fire hazard!

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Hi donf, thanks. For the note of concern... for clarity... I did not change the breaker at the box... this remains 15 amps. I only changed the GFCI in the garage. Please see new pic and info. For two questions based on your answer above. Thx.

Don's point is that you cannot use a 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp circuit.

While not recommended, you can use #12 wire as an extension, but it is still only a 15 amp circuit due to the 15 amp breaker and the #14 wire.

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Originally Posted by tkrussell

Don's point is that you cannot use a 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp circuit.

While not recommended, you can use #12 wire as an extension, but it is still only a 15 amp circuit due to the 15 amp breaker and the #14 wire.

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*** thank you. I got the 2nd half of your post. Regarding the receptacle... according to the info on sticker of each recept (old one from garage and new one just put in) they both are 20 amp GFCI recept. (see posted info. Above for details). Perhaps just replacing recepts - 1 v 1 - fixed the problem because somehow the orig. recept. Was faulty somehow? Your input/suggestions?

If somehow the recept changes things 'wrongly' and I cannot change as I have... please... what do I need to do to fix the problem/need at hand? (see orig. post). Thank you for your feedback ad expertise.

NOTE: If not OK as is... fyi- the orig. 20 amp gfci in garage came w/the home.. it is a '06. So appears builders put in this 20 amp gfci w/14 g wire on this line and to breaker. Does being a GFCI recept make it OK as compared to just a normal 110 recept? If not, how/why they use 20 amp gfci w/14 g wire if not OK and fire hazard? What do I do to fix the problem please... with least effort/cost/time? Thx. Respectfully, if at all possible, it would be great if you could please address each of my above questions separately so I can further understand, fix the problem, and avoid repeating info/questions in thread. I have a code inspection next week, so time sensitve request. Thank you again for your time and expertise. Truly appreciated.

My concern is that if you place a 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp line you could be heading for trouble.

Because the physical design of a 20 amp receptacle is significantly different than the 15 amp design you run the risk that a 20 amp device may be plugged into the 20 amp receptacle. Pop goes the breaker.

My personal suggestion is that you replace both GFCI receptacles with 15 amp so that error cannot occur.