Did you get it working?

No. I am afraid of frying the capacitor, which is not available locally. I am not familiar with 2 level switches.

Ok, refresh my memory. Do you still have the original switch, and do you remember how ANY of the wires were originally connected?

BTW 2 level switches confuse me as well.

Somewhat. Not knowing of 2 layered switches, I just wrote L brown & orange, 1 black & black, 2 brown, 3? I have to find a home for a purple and a black. I did not put which layer a wire was attached.
Again, thank you.

You have a good start. I would do some experimenting once you have a known good cap.

WHEN YOU DO SO, wire the fan IN SERIES with a 300 watt bulb. If the bulb lights, something is wired wrong. This way you won't burn out a good cap or motor.

I do not follow. Which leads in series? Will a 100 watt bulb work?

You need more watts than that.

You will need to wire the 300 watt bulb in at th ceiling, unless you take the fan down and bench it. I.e, power goes into light bulb, out light bulb, into fan motor.

Ceilingfanrepair, I hate to be so slow. With all of the leads to the switch from the fan harness and the capacitor, what wires do I place in series beside the load line?

Don't know if this helps of if it has been mentioned for Diagrams?:
Ceiling Fan wiring Diagrams
Ans Parts:
http://ozarkceilingfan.com/

Strat, I appreciate your answer. However, it does not show where the leads attach. Thanks.

A meter may show the Motor windings, resistance can reveal the taps as well.
I would start with the number of wires from motor?
For testing, you may want to keep the reverse switch out of the circuit. If you notice the Motor winding that goes to the reverse switch, these 2 wire swap with the other 2 to reverse motor(L,1,2,3)make it confusing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jim4934

Ceilingfanrepair, I hate to be so slow. with all of the leads to the switch from the fan harness and the capacitor, what wires do I place in series beside the load line?

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The power coming in from the ceiling, send it to 300 watt bulb. Then out the 300 watt bulb to whatever it connected to in the fan.

jim4934, you will likely ignore the wire colors on the diagrams, and give it a color that matches your resistance readings.
The 300 watt bulb Ceilingfan mentions, goes inline with your power to limit the current it can draw, during your testing.
Don't know if you mentioned 4,5, or 6 wires from motor. The 3 drawings show each.

Guys, thanks for your help. I stumbled upon the wiring diagram by asking the capacitor vendor, Switchco, which lead controlled each speed and she said that she had the proper diagram.
O/T = Outside/Top layer
I/B = Inside/Bottom layer or closest to pull chain

L- black both layers
1- black I/B
- brown O/T
2- purple I/B
blank O/T
3- brown I/B
- orange O/T

Also, black wire from motor with brown paint needs to be tied into brown wires at wire nut

Does it work now?

Switchco is great.

Do they have a place you can view various wiring diagrams?

Not that I'm aware, their website is CeilingFanParts.com Home

Guys, you are great. I really appreciate your help. I think that the owner/manager of Switchco is outstanding. She took the time to help a capacitor customer when no one else would. Neat lady.
Yes, it does work, however only on high. I think that the pincher slots are not making proper contact. Will check later this AM. Will let you know. I am pleased that the community now has a proper wire placement, i.e. diagram.
As far as I can tell, the web site is not conducive to schematics.

Hey jim4934, If you are determined to make this switch work for curiosity, I would continue,
I'm Like that. If you want to be done with this, leave on High and get a Fan Control?
Good Luck.