Quote:

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Originally Posted by danzak

...The description of how to wire TWO sensors was VERY HELPFUL and worked. I diagramed it out, consistent with the other diagrams offered....

Regards,
j
^--aka Snidley Wiplash

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Snidley, did your two motion sensor switches work together? I hooked up a couple of PR150s according to your diagram (and someone else's description), and it kind of works. The switch at the top of the stairs turns on the light every time. At the bottom of the stairs, sometimes it turns on the light, and sometimes it doesn't. One time, I stood at the bottom of the stairs and watched the light go on/off/on/off/on/off/on... but I couldn't reproduce that behavior a second time. Anyway, I'd say the switch at the base of the stairs is turning on the light 50% of the time. Other times I can see the little green light go on, but the switch doesn't power the load.

Anyone have an idea what's up? Has anyone else wired up two of these sensors together for one load? I wonder if it's a problem with the timeout delay being inconsistent or the light sensor.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by arog

Snidley, did your two motion sensor switches work together? I hooked up a couple of PR150s according to your diagram (and someone else's description), and it kinda works. The switch at the top of the stairs turns on the light every time. At the bottom of the stairs, sometimes it turns on the light, and sometimes it doesn't. One time, I stood at the bottom of the stairs and watched the light go on/off/on/off/on/off/on... but I couldn't reproduce that behavior a second time. Anyway, I'd say the switch at the base of the stairs is turning on the light 50% of the time. Other times I can see the little green light go on, but the switch doesn't power the load.

Anyone have an idea what's up? Has anyone else wired up two of these sensors together for one load? I wonder if it's a problem with the timeout delay being inconsistent or the light sensor.

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I'm having the same issue so it must be something with the switches. When I called tech support they told me I had to buy (2) ODS10-IDI but I'm call that upselling... I'd like to know more from him regarding settings. This could be a resistance issue..

Can I install 2 Leviton PR180 motion switches to the 2 current 3 way switches?
I had them installed and could turn lights on/off, but in the off position there seemed to the lights had a dim flicker. Any suggestions?

So I got mine to work, admittedly I found the instructions hard to read at first but after a quick once over I kind of understood what was going on. Follow the instructions on the install guide and pay particular attention to the A-G segment where it shows you how to find both travellers and the common lead on the line box. Wire up the sensor as described. When you get to switch 1 wire it up as it was before but just add the ONE yellow wire that came with the kit and curl it to the black screwed or load part of the switch and the other end to the either traveller a/b doesn't matter screw on the switch. That should be it. I also found it easier to wire this at night.

Hope this helps.

My load-connected 3-way switch connected to my line-connected PR180 still does nothing.

The original instructions resulted in no power to the light whatsoever. Jasonv56's comment about putting power to the black lead and putting the others to the travelers resulted in the sensor working (full-on, or on with motion and off with timer), but the 3-way still does nothing. My jumper is on the 3-way between A and the load line.

I noticed this question has been asked several times in Leviton's own forums without any clear instructions being given by their support people.

Can kricks post live links to the 4 diagrams? I have a stair case with one light at the landing controlled by two switches, one at the bottom of staircase and the other at the top. I intend to replace the top-of-stairs switch with the PR180 so I opened the box to check its wiring. When I turn the switch face down and look at the backside of it, there are places for two wires at the top, a red one on the left and a black on the right. On the bottom left there's a place for only one wire and it is black also. I was hoping I could just plug the wires from the existing switch into the PR180 in their same relative positions. After reading the previous comments, that expectation seems too good to be true. Can anyone verify if this will work?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by knblis

Can kricks post live links to the 4 diagrams? I have a stair case with one light at the landing controlled by two switches, one at the bottom of staircase and the other at the top. I intend to replace the top-of-stairs switch with the PR180 so I opened the box to check its wiring. When I turn the switch face down and look at the backside of it, there are places for two wires at the top, a red one on the left and a black on the right. On the bottom left there's a place for only one wire and it is black also. I was hoping I could just plug the wires from the existing switch into the PR180 in their same relative positions. After reading the previous comments, that expectation seems too good to be true. Can anyone verify if this will work?

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Don't assume relative wire locations even when replacing same type of switch.
Different manufactures have different layouts.
Look for the silver screw terminal -before removing any wires!- and mark it.

Here are the PR180 diagrams:
Note new and old have different colored wires. (New has the yellow with red wire).
Also these drawings are 5+ years old. Don't know if there is any newer models and/or drawings?

Old version LINE side:
http://imageshack.us/a/img850/7835/pr180linesidewiringdiag.jpg

Old version LOAD side:
http://imageshack.us/a/img442/5810/pr180loadsidewiringdiag.jpg

New version LINE side:
http://imageshack.us/a/img846/3847/pr180linesidenew.jpg

New version LOAD side:
http://imageshack.us/a/img703/5666/pr180loadsidenew.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by klricks

Don't assume relative wire locations even when replacing same type of switch.
Different manufactures have different layouts.
Look for the silver screw terminal -before removing any wires!- and mark it.

Here are the PR180 diagrams:
Note new and old have different colored wires. (New has the yellow with red wire).
Also these drawings are 5+ years old. Don't know if there is any newer models and/or drawings?

Old version LINE side:
http://imageshack.us/a/img850/7835/pr180linesidewiringdiag.jpg

Old version LOAD side:
http://imageshack.us/a/img442/5810/pr180loadsidewiringdiag.jpg

New version LINE side:
http://imageshack.us/a/img846/3847/pr180linesidenew.jpg

New version LOAD side:
http://imageshack.us/a/img703/5666/pr180loadsidenew.jpg

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Sorry the common terminal on a 3 way switch is usually black not silver.
As I said the common terminal can be at any position on the standard switch depending on brand or model. Your standard 3 way switch may even be different than how the switches are drawn in the above links. The important thing is to get the common wire connected correctly. Identify and mark it before you disconnect anything. The other 2 wires (travelers) don't matter.