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-   -   3 way switch on 14/2? (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=206660)

  • Apr 13, 2011, 12:47 PM
    baseball239
    Finally got the image thanks Stratmando. Now that I can see it visually I understand it better.
    Thanks again, I will try this out in the morning, And yes Grounds are all connected together ahaha!

    Thanks Again for your help!
    Will let you know if I got it to work!
    Shouldn't be a problem though!!
  • Apr 13, 2011, 12:49 PM
    baseball239
    Thank you too HK!! I really appreciate everything both of you have showed me
  • Apr 13, 2011, 01:09 PM
    Stratmando

    The Image is from Hk, It seems like for me to get to post an image will a long time at this rate.
    Someone has to be able to answer my question on not being able to post images?
    You will likely have it wired before I get an answer? Take care, keep us posted.
  • Apr 13, 2011, 01:21 PM
    baseball239
    I will keep you both posted. Yea I just realized the image was from HK. Thank you Both
  • Apr 13, 2011, 05:47 PM
    hkstroud

    Strat,

    As I'm sure you know, an ac voltage on one conductor will induce a small voltage in another conductor in proximity. Therefore, the need to have the neutral in the same cable as the hot conductor. Since the current in the neutral is traveling in the opposite direction it induces an opposite voltage. The two voltages cancel each other.


    When 3-wire cable is used between two 3-way switches, two of the wires are the travelers and the 3rd is either a neutral or a switched leg. Like the neutral, current on the switched leg is moving in the opposite direction, the two induced voltages cancel each other out.

    If the travelers are in one cable and the switched leg is in another, the traveler being used will induce a small voltage in the traveler not being used. The switch leg will induce a voltage in the other wire in the other cable.

    In the situation described I assume that the wiring has been done and the wall closed up. The induced voltages are very small and given the situation described I personally wouldn't worry about it. I do not think, however it meets code. If the person that did the wiring was an electrician, I don't think I would hire him again. That is unless TK or Stan comes along and tells me I am wrong about it not meeting code.


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  • Apr 14, 2011, 02:46 AM
    tkrussell

    I see no problem with the wiring, while not how it is normally done.

    No different that a two wire switch loop.
  • Apr 15, 2011, 10:48 AM
    baseball239
    Strat and HK, The diagram works, however, I am only getting 84 volts to one light, tested at the box 120v but up to the box only 84v. Thank you again for your help
  • Apr 15, 2011, 11:12 AM
    tkrussell

    We will need to know which light you have 84 volts at.

    Seems you have something spliced in series.
  • Apr 15, 2011, 11:43 AM
    baseball239
    Looking at the diagram it is light on right of diagram
    Again thanks for your help
  • Apr 15, 2011, 04:48 PM
    Stratmando

    I would guess a neutral connection?
    Plug an extension cord into a known good outlet with 120 Volts on it, bring to your light and use the cords neutral as a reference.
    If you use the Neutral on the cord and the hot at the light and it is 84 volts, it is the Hot and may be one of the switches or a connection.
    If it is now 120 volts, the neutral is the problem, and check the whites in both boxes, Not the whites that have been taped with black tape on the switches.
  • Apr 18, 2011, 02:00 PM
    hkstroud
    1 Attachment(s)

    There are quite a lot of wires there. It is possible you mis-wired a white wire. Some whites wires are neutrals and some are being used as hot conductors.

    I have changed the color of the whites that are being used as hot conductors to purple to make the drawing easier to read.

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