Excellent. Thanks! I am sure the flat roof will go fine.

I agree, I'd want to get rid of the paint on the concrete steps/landing as well. What is the best way to do that? Sandblast it? Powerwash? Grinder? Chemicals? What works best?

Ok, I have two big questions, hope you can help.

1) Please see the picture below. As we discussed previously, I am going to be keeping the concrete landing out back, so I will need a ledger board of some sort (I believe) to attach the floor joists to for the addition, right? The picture below just sort of shows that I am thinking. So, the question is, how do I attach the ledger board. Do I attach a joist hanger on the brick walls to the left and to the right? Is that enough support? Do I bolt it into the concrete landing with epoxy bolts? I am assuming I cannot just attach the joist hangers to the landing, right? What do you suggest?

2) So, we've decided to just build up from that brick privacy wall on the left that I share with my neighbor. Our architect and a friend who is a structural engineer both think it is fine. We only "own" 4" of the wall, but the city says and our neighbor agrees, that we not only have a right, but a responsibility to flash over his 4", so that's not a problem. So, I assume I will need to epoxy bolt, or at least tapcon the bottom plate of the wall to the brick, right and then just build up. Here's the complicated part. I want to build up with a 2x6 wall, which means that approximately 2" of the bottom plate will overhang brick wall, right? Can I furr out the brick wall with 2x4 to a)support the bottom plate fully and b) give me some room for insulation? Will this work? Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

I would pressure wash with 3.200 Psi or better.

The best pressure washer is a steam/ hot water pressure washer. I'm not into the paint strippers simply that it causes to may environmental issue out side. Also NO sand blasting. Sand as Silica in it and is very dangerous to people and lungs. 'Black Beauty" is all I use for health/environmental reasons and is totally inert.

Do you think its really worth saving that conc pad? I'm thinking about running mechanicals from floor to floor not to mention sewer drops.

Along with that you are going to have a floor with concrete and wood which can become problematic for a floor finish at the end because of moisture in Crete and application of said floor

Unfortunately we don't have an option. Legally the neighbor gets to keep the brick wall as it is a party wall (means we can build on it/off it, but can't demo without his permission) which is on top of the slab, so yes, unfortunately we need to keep it and the brick wall.

The slab can still be removed even if the brick is on top of it. When done the left over slab under that brick becomes a concrete brick. Not that difficult to do that.

Would you just use a concrete saw to cut it away? If not, then how? I hadn't really thought of doing that the SE and the architect both suggested just leaving it.

Now, if I chose not to get rid of the slab, how would you do this?

Remove steps. Build scaffold in front of the slab o get just above the concrete. Plank it out there. Now Tap Con a temporary ledger board a couple of inches above the concrete in the alcove and double it up so there is a 3" ledger there.

From there you can run a scaffolding plank over to the built scaffolding with the decked out area. Use drywall screws to temporally secure the scaffold plank to the temp ledger boards.

Under the Crete get some 2x4s or 2x6 and build 3 quick supports for the crete about 16 inches apart to support the Crete before you start the demo. This will allow you to demo 16 inches of Crete at a time and the remaining deck is still supported, the next 16" support will hold the Crete in cantilever fashion.

Rent a concrete saw with a 14" diamond blade to go with it. Also pick up a 14" steel blade to cut the rebar that should be in that Crete

Start at the neighbors side and saw cut until you see sparks or feel a difference in the cutting which is hard at times. Diamond will go through steel but not recommended for the blade. The chip out to expose the rebar. Switch blades cut steel out and then back to diamond to finish Crete cut.

Use a chipping hammer and start on the neighbors side ( where cut is ) and all along that wall. At any given time the Crete will only overhang 16" form grid/section to section. Now I rigged you up ABOVE the pad for good safety and all the demo falls away from you.

You will need scaffolding to rent for the brick work or siding so that's not a cost for pad demo.

You can re use the temp 2bys bracing for the addition.

The only chewed up cost is the Demo hammer ans saw/blade wear. I use a Bosch 11305 and trying to find the equivalent for the Demo. My 11305 is one step down from the Brute demo hammer

Bosch 11305 Parts List and Diagram - (0611305034) : eReplacementparts.com

This is the closest to that size and I think its it cousin in weight and size.
http://www.toolbarn.com/product/bosch/11335K/

Again I choose to demo it and make a CLEAN re hap. One day to set up and demo and all.

A yard of concrete is 4,000 lbs at 46,656 cubic inches to a yard. A cubic foot is 1,726 cubic inches. A cubic foot of Crete weighs approx 150 lbs. Just thought I throw this in so you can figure out the weight supports there on bracing.

21 Boat-

I hope you're still around. I think we talked about this previously, but would appreciate your take on a standing seam roof. My wife really likes the look. Something like this... Standing Seam | Image II | Best Buy Metals

The install actually doesn't seem all that difficult. Any thoughts?

Are you leaning to the standing seam because its more of an install thought.

Quote:

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Damage will result if uninstalled panels or trim are allowed to remain wet in storage. Be sure to store material that will not be installed immediately in

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A little unnerving for a roof material

Quote:

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Warrantied products Painted standing seam panels come with a 35-45-year coil manufacturer's
Warranty, and unpainted Galvalume comes with a 20-25-year warranty

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Are you or anyone really going to see this roof?

So far I haven't replaced a rubber roof since they cam out in the late 70s or so. I did replace metal roofs though and after a while they need coated. If you have parrot pit walls metal a to flash. It needs some detailing,

The other thing is look at the pics they show. Metal roofs need Snow Guards. There are none in the pictures. Also there are no gutters showing in the pics. The reason there are no gutters in the pics is because gutters have to have snow guards or the gutters get ripped off from sliding snow/ice. I install metal roofs also and slate. They all need snow guards.

Thanks! No, nothing to do with install. It is all aesthetics. After looking at the architectural drawings with the flat roof, my wife doesn't think it looks right, so she wants a sloped roof. The architect says we can likely support up to a 3/12 or even 4/12 slope. These metal roofs are very popular/typical here, so it goes well with the neighborhood.

I would imagine if go with a metal/sloped roof, we would NOT do a parapet wall, right?

Process wise though, you sheath the roof, install tar paper, install the roof and flashing and then the gutter and you're good to go, right?

Not quite need snpw guards to protect a killing and the gutter

Its
Sheeting
Tarpaper
Dripedge
Counter flashing
Metal roof
Flashing
Caulk
Snowguards
Gutter

Snow guard is a rubber membrance that goes along the gutter area, right?

Excllent. Thanks!

A metal roof isn't a bad option, is it?

If the metal roof really can't be seen then its not a good choice, Metal is no contest for rubber roof.

Consider using floor Trusses as for your roof. You can run pluming through them with ease, as no holes need to be drilled in them

Here's a link to a picture.
http://www.smokycove.com/log_cabin_construction_photos/floor_truss.jpg

Also, I would frame the roof perfectly flat and add wedge shaped shims to the top side of the joists for your slope. This way your ceiling inside will be nice and flat. And you don't have to do any notching of anything.

inthecalm

This post is over a year old. Job is probably done by now.

Chuck