Actually, I would definitely use a nailer for siding: there's less chance of cracking than nailing manually, and if you set the pressure and depth properly, you get a perfect nail every time.

Don't use a regular nailer. There are special siding nailers that use a thinner shank nail. I bought the Bostitch version and it works well. Galvanized nails wouild be standard, but its worth looking around on the internet for stainless nails as they will definitely avoid future rust stains.

Thanks travel. For the help here... maybe strubits can get a cheap nailer and go your way. I'm all for power tools if its cost effective.
Maybe check Ebay for a used one
Found some used ones..
http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&node=552708

Thanks to you both.

So, for the Hardie siding, looks like the suggested nails are 2", so I am wondering if I can get away with this nailer for everything, siding, framing, etc. Of course I'll need a finish nailer as well.

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Also, do I need a 12" sliding miter saw or would a 10" be fine?

You'll have to check the nail size it can accept, and also the nails made for it. I have not been through the hardie site, but they may also have recommendations on max nail size.

My siding nailer accepts nails with around a 0.09" shank. You may find you can only get bigger ones for the gun you've linked to. Also be careful on how good the galvanizing is of the nails you buy. I would not skimp on the galvanizing quality for siding nails (or try to find stainless ones as I suggested)

Maybe have a look on e-bay or craiglist? I have the Bostitch N66C and it is a good little tool. In Canada, there is a 7 year warranty - not sure about the US. But if the warranty is transferable, it takes the worry out of buying a used tool.

Thanks RTW... it is a very small project, so having to buy multiple nailers would be less than efficient. Hopefully I can find one tool that can do both functions.

21 boat, do you think I need a 12" sliding miter saw or would a 10" be fine?

10 would be fine. The slider is basically for wider trim and or crown molding. I cut wider trim on older homes but mostly the 10" comes out of the truck. We may times use the 10" to gang cut joist and I love it for studs. In our re hap we shave ( re cut stud )at times for uneven floor plates and the miter is used as a hand held circ saw makes a nice shaved square cut.

I am thinking it would be great to have a slider for joists/studs.

Something like this is good? - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

That's fine

Ok, so a couple of additional questions.

First, going back to the original question on roofing. What if I went with something other than a flat roof, like a shed roof design or something. I think I have sufficient room for something like that. If so, is it easier to frame? More durable? Better looking? Any suggestions?

Also, a really unrelated masonry question. We have a series of concrete steps in the front of our house. They seem to be in pretty good condition except for one step which has a significant lateral crack. It is obvious that the previous owner parged the crack before painting it, so before we moved in it was unnoticeable, but has become progressively worse, much worse even than the photo. Now, whole chunks of the parge material are coming off.

The mason we had give us a bid on the foundation work for the addition project suggested cutting out that section of stair entirely and replacing them. Is this the best way to go? Is there a way I can do this project myself? Any thoughts?

Also, I really want to cover the steps in some form of stone like the photo is of my next door neighbor. How hard is this to do? Is this a project I can take on myself? Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Hi stubits. The mason is right. I would cut out all three steps. I see a classic mistake in that pour. The split in the middle of that first step is not real common in that area on steps. That's due to improper expansion between the steps and the walk. A grove there doesn't qualify for and expansion joint. It was probably poured all at once to save a day for a second pour.

Cut back from the top of the steps on the walk a min of 12". There you will need a felt expansion joint applied to old walk edge. The drill through that in two places center and use 3/8 rebar pins Through the expansion joints. This will allow expansion and also vertical flats of walk and step to remain a flat plain. A knuckle joint.

Any thoughts on the flagstone?

I personally love flagstone for looks, laid tons of it, but here's the draw backs.

1. It should be sealed every couple of years because of the cleavage in the stone an flake and lift if freezing water gets in the tiny fissures.

2. Water freezing on it makes it hard to see if its black ice or just wet.

3. Ice sticks to it well and hard to shovel off (bumpy) and there's a tendency to salt it more then a reg walk. Your neighbors seems to have salt stains on ithe risers or it's a bad smeary mortar job.

4. Flagstone is laid in bigger size then brick. Therefore the expansion and contraction is more in size and the mortar joints develop more hairline cracks along the edge where mortar meets stone.

The best natural very low maintenance walk is a brick walk set in crushed stone beds and dry laid. Don't get me wrong were all the above beats just plain concrete hands down. The easiest walk to maintain other then dry laid brick is concrete. IE, this is where the "stamped" concrete was born and took off but expensive. It is comparable to brick and flagstone for the simple reason you need top pour a walk to lay a walk if brick or flag set in mortar.

Getting back to the roof. What is the thoughts there on changing to a shed roof as opposed to a flat roof which is a low shed roof.

I don't know what you will gain other then height in the roof rafters for insulation.

I'm a big believer in rubber roofs as opposed to shingle. Is is a venting thought here. Can you shed some more light in your reasons here?

Thanks!

On the steps:

I think I will have the mason fix the crack, glad to know he is planning on doing it the right way. Seems like a bit more work than I'd like to take on. As for making them pretty. I love brick, but my wife isn't such a fan. How hard would it be for me to do the flagstone myself? Is it something I can do? Is the dry laid brick even an option here, given that the cement already exists? Any thoughts?

As for the roof. I was just thinking that the design wise a sloped roof might be interesting. Also, I thought working with shingles might be easier than the rubber roof material.

Any thoughts?

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Originally Posted by ;

As for the roof. I was just thinking that the design wise a sloped roof might be interesting. Also, I thought working with shingles might be easier than the rubber roof material

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If the 'Crack is just filled with mortar that won't hold long. I'm assuming it's a re pour of the steps.

Is the roof more about you being more comfortable laying shingles then rubber and that's a big part of the sale here on an Interesting roof?

The roof it up there 3 stories on a row home. Not to many people look up at roofs in the city areas. Been on enough of them working and people never really look up including owners. Just checking on the reasons.

Rubber out last shingles. If anything I would slate the roof to keep in with the age in homes and that's a 75 year plus roof if you are going to pitch it as a shed roof.

Yes, he will do just as you said, cut out the steps, install an expansion joint and then re pour.

The roof is really two fold. On one hand, I just want to make this as attractive and interesting an addition as possible. I was even contemplating a metal roof. On the other hand, I've done shingles before, never done a flat roof, so yes, definitely more comfortable with shingles.

So, if I want to do the flagstone, or even brick, how tough is it? What are the steps? Is it doable?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ;

Yes, he will do just as you said, cut out the steps, install an expansion joint and then re pour.

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Perfect. Don't forget the trick of the two 3/8 pins through the expansion joint to walk.

Shingles is best on a 4/12 pitch and down to 3/12. I have used blind nailing cement for the 3/12 pitch. Tin roof as far as I'm concerned is trouble down the road. The screws with the rubber seals fail in time and pinhole leaks, Commercial tin or the old standing seam roof is very good and not cheap.

Rubber is actually fairly easy, been installing for a long time it's a hurry and weight roof. The hardest part is getting the rubber up there.

It just a 1/2 felt board screwed down with the large cap plates.

Bucket of rubber glue to glue rubber to felt.

Termination bar up side walls. 6" perimeter glue down strip over the drip edge to cover.
SPM seal on that edge and termination strips. Surface silicone a roof boot for plumbing venting etc.

Ok, OK, so the flat roof doesn't sound all that hard. I'll give it a shot.

So, on the steps. How difficult would it be to do either flagstone or brick set in mortar? Is that something I can do myself?

Thanks!

It sounds like your skill level is good so this may be possible for you.
When you get to the flat roof part post back for any guidance you may need.

My first concern is the "toping" that was applied over the old concrete. If that fails and in time most due, then the laid brick or mortar bed will fail too.

I can guide you through the laying of brick or flagstone and the proper mortar mixes. You don't want to but the premix crap. It's a terrible mortar to work with.