Actually, I would definitely use a nailer for siding: there's less chance of cracking than nailing manually, and if you set the pressure and depth properly, you get a perfect nail every time.

Don't use a regular nailer. There are special siding nailers that use a thinner shank nail. I bought the Bostitch version and it works well. Galvanized nails wouild be standard, but its worth looking around on the internet for stainless nails as they will definitely avoid future rust stains.

Thanks travel. For the help here... maybe strubits can get a cheap nailer and go your way. I'm all for power tools if its cost effective.
Maybe check Ebay for a used one
Found some used ones..
http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&node=552708

Thanks to you both.

So, for the Hardie siding, looks like the suggested nails are 2", so I am wondering if I can get away with this nailer for everything, siding, framing, etc. Of course I'll need a finish nailer as well.

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Also, do I need a 12" sliding miter saw or would a 10" be fine?

You'll have to check the nail size it can accept, and also the nails made for it. I have not been through the hardie site, but they may also have recommendations on max nail size.

My siding nailer accepts nails with around a 0.09" shank. You may find you can only get bigger ones for the gun you've linked to. Also be careful on how good the galvanizing is of the nails you buy. I would not skimp on the galvanizing quality for siding nails (or try to find stainless ones as I suggested)

Maybe have a look on e-bay or craiglist? I have the Bostitch N66C and it is a good little tool. In Canada, there is a 7 year warranty - not sure about the US. But if the warranty is transferable, it takes the worry out of buying a used tool.

Thanks RTW... it is a very small project, so having to buy multiple nailers would be less than efficient. Hopefully I can find one tool that can do both functions.

21 boat, do you think I need a 12" sliding miter saw or would a 10" be fine?

10 would be fine. The slider is basically for wider trim and or crown molding. I cut wider trim on older homes but mostly the 10" comes out of the truck. We may times use the 10" to gang cut joist and I love it for studs. In our re hap we shave ( re cut stud )at times for uneven floor plates and the miter is used as a hand held circ saw makes a nice shaved square cut.

I am thinking it would be great to have a slider for joists/studs.

Something like this is good? - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

That's fine

Ok, so a couple of additional questions.

First, going back to the original question on roofing. What if I went with something other than a flat roof, like a shed roof design or something. I think I have sufficient room for something like that. If so, is it easier to frame? More durable? Better looking? Any suggestions?

Also, a really unrelated masonry question. We have a series of concrete steps in the front of our house. They seem to be in pretty good condition except for one step which has a significant lateral crack. It is obvious that the previous owner parged the crack before painting it, so before we moved in it was unnoticeable, but has become progressively worse, much worse even than the photo. Now, whole chunks of the parge material are coming off.

The mason we had give us a bid on the foundation work for the addition project suggested cutting out that section of stair entirely and replacing them. Is this the best way to go? Is there a way I can do this project myself? Any thoughts?

Also, I really want to cover the steps in some form of stone like the photo is of my next door neighbor. How hard is this to do? Is this a project I can take on myself? Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Hi stubits. The mason is right. I would cut out all three steps. I see a classic mistake in that pour. The split in the middle of that first step is not real common in that area on steps. That's due to improper expansion between the steps and the walk. A grove there doesn't qualify for and expansion joint. It was probably poured all at once to save a day for a second pour.

Cut back from the top of the steps on the walk a min of 12". There you will need a felt expansion joint applied to old walk edge. The drill through that in two places center and use 3/8 rebar pins Through the expansion joints. This will allow expansion and also vertical flats of walk and step to remain a flat plain. A knuckle joint.

Any thoughts on the flagstone?

I personally love flagstone for looks, laid tons of it, but here's the draw backs.

1. It should be sealed every couple of years because of the cleavage in the stone an flake and lift if freezing water gets in the tiny fissures.

2. Water freezing on it makes it hard to see if its black ice or just wet.

3. Ice sticks to it well and hard to shovel off (bumpy) and there's a tendency to salt it more then a reg walk. Your neighbors seems to have salt stains on ithe risers or it's a bad smeary mortar job.

4. Flagstone is laid in bigger size then brick. Therefore the expansion and contraction is more in size and the mortar joints develop more hairline cracks along the edge where mortar meets stone.

The best natural very low maintenance walk is a brick walk set in crushed stone beds and dry laid. Don't get me wrong were all the above beats just plain concrete hands down. The easiest walk to maintain other then dry laid brick is concrete. IE, this is where the "stamped" concrete was born and took off but expensive. It is comparable to brick and flagstone for the simple reason you need top pour a walk to lay a walk if brick or flag set in mortar.

Getting back to the roof. What is the thoughts there on changing to a shed roof as opposed to a flat roof which is a low shed roof.

I don't know what you will gain other then height in the roof rafters for insulation.

I'm a big believer in rubber roofs as opposed to shingle. Is is a venting thought here. Can you shed some more light in your reasons here?

Thanks!

On the steps:

I think I will have the mason fix the crack, glad to know he is planning on doing it the right way. Seems like a bit more work than I'd like to take on. As for making them pretty. I love brick, but my wife isn't such a fan. How hard would it be for me to do the flagstone myself? Is it something I can do? Is the dry laid brick even an option here, given that the cement already exists? Any thoughts?

As for the roof. I was just thinking that the design wise a sloped roof might be interesting. Also, I thought working with shingles might be easier than the rubber roof material.

Any thoughts?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ;

As for the roof. I was just thinking that the design wise a sloped roof might be interesting. Also, I thought working with shingles might be easier than the rubber roof material

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If the 'Crack is just filled with mortar that won't hold long. I'm assuming it's a re pour of the steps.

Is the roof more about you being more comfortable laying shingles then rubber and that's a big part of the sale here on an Interesting roof?

The roof it up there 3 stories on a row home. Not to many people look up at roofs in the city areas. Been on enough of them working and people never really look up including owners. Just checking on the reasons.

Rubber out last shingles. If anything I would slate the roof to keep in with the age in homes and that's a 75 year plus roof if you are going to pitch it as a shed roof.

Yes, he will do just as you said, cut out the steps, install an expansion joint and then re pour.

The roof is really two fold. On one hand, I just want to make this as attractive and interesting an addition as possible. I was even contemplating a metal roof. On the other hand, I've done shingles before, never done a flat roof, so yes, definitely more comfortable with shingles.

So, if I want to do the flagstone, or even brick, how tough is it? What are the steps? Is it doable?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ;

Yes, he will do just as you said, cut out the steps, install an expansion joint and then re pour.

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Perfect. Don't forget the trick of the two 3/8 pins through the expansion joint to walk.

Shingles is best on a 4/12 pitch and down to 3/12. I have used blind nailing cement for the 3/12 pitch. Tin roof as far as I'm concerned is trouble down the road. The screws with the rubber seals fail in time and pinhole leaks, Commercial tin or the old standing seam roof is very good and not cheap.

Rubber is actually fairly easy, been installing for a long time it's a hurry and weight roof. The hardest part is getting the rubber up there.

It just a 1/2 felt board screwed down with the large cap plates.

Bucket of rubber glue to glue rubber to felt.

Termination bar up side walls. 6" perimeter glue down strip over the drip edge to cover.
SPM seal on that edge and termination strips. Surface silicone a roof boot for plumbing venting etc.

Ok, OK, so the flat roof doesn't sound all that hard. I'll give it a shot.

So, on the steps. How difficult would it be to do either flagstone or brick set in mortar? Is that something I can do myself?

Thanks!

It sounds like your skill level is good so this may be possible for you.
When you get to the flat roof part post back for any guidance you may need.

My first concern is the "toping" that was applied over the old concrete. If that fails and in time most due, then the laid brick or mortar bed will fail too.

I can guide you through the laying of brick or flagstone and the proper mortar mixes. You don't want to but the premix crap. It's a terrible mortar to work with.

Excellent. Thanks! I am sure the flat roof will go fine.

I agree, I'd want to get rid of the paint on the concrete steps/landing as well. What is the best way to do that? Sandblast it? Powerwash? Grinder? Chemicals? What works best?

Ok, I have two big questions, hope you can help.

1) Please see the picture below. As we discussed previously, I am going to be keeping the concrete landing out back, so I will need a ledger board of some sort (I believe) to attach the floor joists to for the addition, right? The picture below just sort of shows that I am thinking. So, the question is, how do I attach the ledger board. Do I attach a joist hanger on the brick walls to the left and to the right? Is that enough support? Do I bolt it into the concrete landing with epoxy bolts? I am assuming I cannot just attach the joist hangers to the landing, right? What do you suggest?

2) So, we've decided to just build up from that brick privacy wall on the left that I share with my neighbor. Our architect and a friend who is a structural engineer both think it is fine. We only "own" 4" of the wall, but the city says and our neighbor agrees, that we not only have a right, but a responsibility to flash over his 4", so that's not a problem. So, I assume I will need to epoxy bolt, or at least tapcon the bottom plate of the wall to the brick, right and then just build up. Here's the complicated part. I want to build up with a 2x6 wall, which means that approximately 2" of the bottom plate will overhang brick wall, right? Can I furr out the brick wall with 2x4 to a)support the bottom plate fully and b) give me some room for insulation? Will this work? Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

I would pressure wash with 3.200 Psi or better.

The best pressure washer is a steam/ hot water pressure washer. I'm not into the paint strippers simply that it causes to may environmental issue out side. Also NO sand blasting. Sand as Silica in it and is very dangerous to people and lungs. 'Black Beauty" is all I use for health/environmental reasons and is totally inert.

Do you think its really worth saving that conc pad? I'm thinking about running mechanicals from floor to floor not to mention sewer drops.

Along with that you are going to have a floor with concrete and wood which can become problematic for a floor finish at the end because of moisture in Crete and application of said floor

Unfortunately we don't have an option. Legally the neighbor gets to keep the brick wall as it is a party wall (means we can build on it/off it, but can't demo without his permission) which is on top of the slab, so yes, unfortunately we need to keep it and the brick wall.

The slab can still be removed even if the brick is on top of it. When done the left over slab under that brick becomes a concrete brick. Not that difficult to do that.

Would you just use a concrete saw to cut it away? If not, then how? I hadn't really thought of doing that the SE and the architect both suggested just leaving it.

Now, if I chose not to get rid of the slab, how would you do this?

Remove steps. Build scaffold in front of the slab o get just above the concrete. Plank it out there. Now Tap Con a temporary ledger board a couple of inches above the concrete in the alcove and double it up so there is a 3" ledger there.

From there you can run a scaffolding plank over to the built scaffolding with the decked out area. Use drywall screws to temporally secure the scaffold plank to the temp ledger boards.

Under the Crete get some 2x4s or 2x6 and build 3 quick supports for the crete about 16 inches apart to support the Crete before you start the demo. This will allow you to demo 16 inches of Crete at a time and the remaining deck is still supported, the next 16" support will hold the Crete in cantilever fashion.

Rent a concrete saw with a 14" diamond blade to go with it. Also pick up a 14" steel blade to cut the rebar that should be in that Crete

Start at the neighbors side and saw cut until you see sparks or feel a difference in the cutting which is hard at times. Diamond will go through steel but not recommended for the blade. The chip out to expose the rebar. Switch blades cut steel out and then back to diamond to finish Crete cut.

Use a chipping hammer and start on the neighbors side ( where cut is ) and all along that wall. At any given time the Crete will only overhang 16" form grid/section to section. Now I rigged you up ABOVE the pad for good safety and all the demo falls away from you.

You will need scaffolding to rent for the brick work or siding so that's not a cost for pad demo.

You can re use the temp 2bys bracing for the addition.

The only chewed up cost is the Demo hammer ans saw/blade wear. I use a Bosch 11305 and trying to find the equivalent for the Demo. My 11305 is one step down from the Brute demo hammer

Bosch 11305 Parts List and Diagram - (0611305034) : eReplacementparts.com

This is the closest to that size and I think its it cousin in weight and size.
http://www.toolbarn.com/product/bosch/11335K/

Again I choose to demo it and make a CLEAN re hap. One day to set up and demo and all.

A yard of concrete is 4,000 lbs at 46,656 cubic inches to a yard. A cubic foot is 1,726 cubic inches. A cubic foot of Crete weighs approx 150 lbs. Just thought I throw this in so you can figure out the weight supports there on bracing.

21 Boat-

I hope you're still around. I think we talked about this previously, but would appreciate your take on a standing seam roof. My wife really likes the look. Something like this... Standing Seam | Image II | Best Buy Metals

The install actually doesn't seem all that difficult. Any thoughts?

Are you leaning to the standing seam because its more of an install thought.

Quote:

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Damage will result if uninstalled panels or trim are allowed to remain wet in storage. Be sure to store material that will not be installed immediately in

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A little unnerving for a roof material

Quote:

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Warrantied products Painted standing seam panels come with a 35-45-year coil manufacturer's
Warranty, and unpainted Galvalume comes with a 20-25-year warranty

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Are you or anyone really going to see this roof?

So far I haven't replaced a rubber roof since they cam out in the late 70s or so. I did replace metal roofs though and after a while they need coated. If you have parrot pit walls metal a to flash. It needs some detailing,

The other thing is look at the pics they show. Metal roofs need Snow Guards. There are none in the pictures. Also there are no gutters showing in the pics. The reason there are no gutters in the pics is because gutters have to have snow guards or the gutters get ripped off from sliding snow/ice. I install metal roofs also and slate. They all need snow guards.

Thanks! No, nothing to do with install. It is all aesthetics. After looking at the architectural drawings with the flat roof, my wife doesn't think it looks right, so she wants a sloped roof. The architect says we can likely support up to a 3/12 or even 4/12 slope. These metal roofs are very popular/typical here, so it goes well with the neighborhood.

I would imagine if go with a metal/sloped roof, we would NOT do a parapet wall, right?

Process wise though, you sheath the roof, install tar paper, install the roof and flashing and then the gutter and you're good to go, right?

Not quite need snpw guards to protect a killing and the gutter

Its
Sheeting
Tarpaper
Dripedge
Counter flashing
Metal roof
Flashing
Caulk
Snowguards
Gutter

Snow guard is a rubber membrance that goes along the gutter area, right?

Excllent. Thanks!

A metal roof isn't a bad option, is it?

If the metal roof really can't be seen then its not a good choice, Metal is no contest for rubber roof.

Consider using floor Trusses as for your roof. You can run pluming through them with ease, as no holes need to be drilled in them

Here's a link to a picture.
http://www.smokycove.com/log_cabin_construction_photos/floor_truss.jpg

Also, I would frame the roof perfectly flat and add wedge shaped shims to the top side of the joists for your slope. This way your ceiling inside will be nice and flat. And you don't have to do any notching of anything.

inthecalm

This post is over a year old. Job is probably done by now.

Chuck