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Ok, I totally get this now. Great explanation. So, as always, a couple of questions...
1) Why is this necessary? I don't doubt you at all, just want to understand why the "beam" is necessary as opposed to just a standard joist which would normally be sufficient.
2) How many joists should I "double up"?
3) Is it necessary to pocket it into the brick? Or can I just attach it to the ledger board like the rest of the joists?
You more less have an "L" shape wall you are adding. There isn't any ledger board on that opposite wall. Ledger on existing side and complete new wall opposite side. New joist go over that wall (10) side.
Because of a new brick veneer on the 5' front wall which address 4 1/2" to that front wall, plus 1/2" OSB behind new brick wall then Studs. The front and Side Wall is thicker than the second floor since you want to do new brick on first floor/ ground wall only and not the other floors..
The Joist/Beam is to help off set the beginning of the second floor and get far enough over the top of the stud plate and also the 4 1/2" brick wall to flush 2x12 joist to the outside of those " brick wall to flush 2x12 joist to the outside of those " shape wall.
On the 5' end wall you are going to need an added joist for a nailer for the ceiling below to hang drywall on the ceiling which can be added as part of the Joist beam.
Remember I suggested to offset ( going towards the house standing in yard looking at the back of the new addition as it were) the 5' part of foundation towards the house and back from the existing brick wall 3"+ for the new brick veneer to have a small inside corner where it Butts to old.
This will help and allow the Joist beam to be pocketed into the existing wall for load carry of the offset 2nd floor wall. The 3" shape wall.
On the 5' end wall you are going to need an added joist for a nailer for the ceiling below to hang drywall on the ceiling which can be added as part of the Joist beam.
Remember I suggested to offset ( going towards the house standing in yard looking at the back of the new addition as it were) the 5' part of foundation towards the house and back from the existing brick wall 3"
Now Just to throw you a big loop here is move the yard 5' end PAST the existing wall and now you have a brick return wall of '?" inches and A smaller Joist/beam in width will be needed
1) Why is this necessary? I don't doubt you at all, just want to understand why the "beam" is necessary as opposed to just a standard joist which would normally be sufficient. The beam is to carry the next two floor loads since its being offset to flush to first floor brick veneer. Part of the second floor load will be resting on the 1st floor brick veneer and since the joist beam is WIDE WALL ( brick veneer/ studs)
2) How many joists should I "double up"? Starting from the inside studs ( 1 1/2"+ old brick on existing will HIDE the new Joist/beam and protect it. This will also help break up the vertical mortar joint. And lastly it will be far enough back that when you slip the 2nd floor OSB over the new brick below and add the Hardie siding you will be at a finish reveal of around 1") brick veneer ( 4 1/2" )
3) Is it necessary to pocket it into the brick? Or can I just attach it to the ledger board like the rest of the joists? Hard to find hangers for a wide beam/joist not to mention a beam pocket into masonry is the best. Can't get better support than that.
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Wow, so like 7 or 8 joists all joined together?
Yep You can use Ply between to tweak the distance width. Kind of a partial micro lamb beam
And No you don't want to buy one of those here. Very expansive.
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Ok, this totally makes sense.
How much of an inside corner are we looking for with the offset? Are you suggesting setting the new 5' wall back 3" from the current wall?
Yes any further in and the offset from there will take more notch out of beam to address the vertical load shift.
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OK, great.
So, in this case, would the mason still attempt to work the new brick in with the old brick? Or will there just be an inside corner with a vertical seam?
I would use a good gaged brick walls ties every 8" and pop out the old brick wall every 16" inches or what works in that general spot for the brick courses. Reg brick usually works to the 6 or 7 on the brick spacing rule.
So just brake a out half brick on old wall and then use a full brick to lay in the pocket and the other half is in the new wall
The common ones are the corrugated ties. You can use a masonry nail to tie them in, but I like the short Tap Cons screws
TN 44B - WALL TIES FOR BRICK MASONRY
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Ok, so I have been thinking about this project all weekend long, running through a lot of different variables and I have a couple of questions and some changes to my original thinking... I hope you're still monitoring this!
First, I am thinking it might be easier for the HVAC, plumbing and electrical to run the floor joists so that they span the 10' distance rather than the 5' difference. Do you see any problems with that? I also believe that that will allow me to cantilever the 5' exterior wall out over the brick veneer, right?
Now, on the first level (where there is currently a concrete landing), would it be possible to run a 2x12 ledger board from the 10' brick wall across the 5' span to rest on the opposite wall. Then, I'd run the joists off the ledger board using Simpson joist hangers, cantilevering the floor joists over the 5' exterior wall by a few inches to match up the siding to the brick. Will that work?
Thanks!
That's what I mentioned a while back. This also Completely solves the cantilever bearing on the front 5' wall. I was going to post back because of the mechanicals having a problem using the joist bay for HVAC. The 5 ' way. not to mention wiring. Add to that less brackets and frame time. If that brick wing wall is sound then that can be added to and Incorporated into. Again check codes. At this point I see no problems.
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Thanks for your patience with me, sorry I didn't listen better earlier. I will definitely go with the above approach.
OK, some more questions on the footings/foundation. So far as I can tell, there are really three parts to this. One is the poured footer itself, the second is the block foundation wall and third is raising the height of the cement floor.
So, can I run through this with you again?
STEP 1
First I will excavate so that I can pour a footing according to code, but let's assume 20" wide by 8" deep for the full perimiter of the addition. I will tie it into the current footing using rebar on both sides and will reinforce the footing with additional rebar. Also, I will include vertical rebar to tie the footer into the foundation wall, right?
Step 2
I will build the foundation wall using 10" cmu's, switching over eventually to 6" cmu's to provide a brick ledge. I will have J Bolts at the top to tie in the framing.
Step 3
This is where I still have questions. What is the best way to build up the current concrete slab. I believe it is likely 4" thick already and we need to pour just 3" more to bring it up to the current floor. Do I do this after I've laid the foundation walls? Do I need to tie the new slab into the old slab or can one float over the other? Am I better off just breaking up the old stuff?
Thanks!
1. 20" wide by 8" deep...
Code for here is 3' deep to get below frost line. The footer should be min 24" wide so you can step in the ditch and lay the block. Footer 8" thick with bar as far as I'm concerned is perfect and over code here. ( Its three stories) so for me bar is a given. To tie into existing walls use bar horizontally from middle of new 8" footer to adjacent walls.
2. I will build the foundation wall using 10" cmu's, switching over eventually to 6" cmu's to provide a brick ledge. I will have J Bolts at the top to tie in the framing...........
Perfect. Just remember you need a 4"high/thick cap block 6" wide for house plate. Before you back fill the new block walls. You need to parge it from finish grade down or the whole wall. Then use foundation coating after parge is fey and coat from finish grade down to footer. Now you can backfill new wall.
3. Do I need to tie the new slab into the old slab or can one float over the other? Am I better off just breaking up the old stuff? ..........
Yes I would for these reasons. To do a good job os break up the concrete. From finish floor down would be. 4" new concrete. 6 mil ploy vapor barrier/ 4" crushed 2B clean stone. Now remember my previous post on insulating the perimeter of the concrete floor under the concrete
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Excellent.
Given the size of this job, do you think it is OK for me to do the foundation work myself? If I follow the directions you've given, I should be OK, right? Or do you think I should hire this out?
Ok, couple of follow-up questions. Is the timing right? First I will pour the footer, next build the block wall and then pour the slab? Is there anyway to pour the slab and the footer at the same time? This way I could avoid having the ready mix truck come out for two tiny loads.
If I chose to not break up the current slab (not sure yet what I want to do), would you recommend tying it into the new slab somehow or just float the new slab on top?
That's a tuff question. I don't know your skill level. Check with city on codes get permit.
Dig out the ditch. Prep footer with rebar. To figure out your concrete a Yd of Crete is 46.656 cubic inches. To a yard.
Hear comes the tradesmen lingo. When you lay out the footer you need to check for square even though the house may not be. Looking from the back yard on right façade go back 4 or 6 feet and set a string line. Now with string in hand secured to old wall walk to left past 5' footer location. Get a helper to look at line and bring it close to the wall and just seeing light between old brick wall and line. This is called tailing out a wall. Drive in stake secure string to stake. Now measure 5' from that old brick corner and mark the 5' Now toy should have two stakes set. One is the front finish on the 5' faced and one is where the return wall to house alcove. To check things for square I'm going to teach you Pythagorean theorem. The magic numbers are 3, 4, 5. 6, 8. 10, To square anything use these numbers in either the first 3 groups or the second three groups. So lets say on a corner you can measure 3in one way 4in opposite way right angle. From there to the previous 3inch mark should be 5 inch across which is a perfect 45 degree angle. Use the 6 8 10 the same way. The beauty here is the addition is 5'x10' so lest use the 3 4 5 so now it 3 feet down inside wall mark that and you have the 5 pin from those two marks point to point should be 5 feet. A perfect 45 which mean a perfect 90 on the corner.
I would get a good Mason to lay the block and brick. Of all the trades masonry is almost never a DYI project, The foundation below HAS to be dead on. When you dig the footer leave extra room on the front of the footer so the Manson can stand in ditch to lay block, So 24" wide footer. 10" block can sit 4 to 6" "in from edge of footer. So out of 24" wide, 14" of footer is used up. This leaves the Manson 18 to 20" left to stand in the ditch and lay block.
Makes you kind of wish I was there to build it. Your not alone I'm new to this site and I'm been VERY impressed with the other tradesmen here. And at times I think boy could all of us build a top notch structure together Im 34 years in the field and Im not impressed easily.
To find a good Mason I just thought of a good way. Ask him does he know 3, 4, 5, or 6, 8, 10, If those numbers means nothing to him than I would NOT consider him a Full Mason. Or ask him of he know Pythagagoras and his theorem? I learned this in 1974 at a high school Vo tec learning to be a mason. I posted site on him. I never looked it until now, just knew his name and theorem.
Pythagorean theorem - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Sorry I got carried away, but here is a good trade secret and soon to be lost. Only a few on the site would know this. And who does, its defiantly a good sign of a true builder.
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So, thinking this over, what do you think of doing a slab with a turned down footing with a monolithic pour? Is that possible in this application?
No not for 3 stories. On top. You should have a 2' wide footer. Specks may say 18" wide. The problem here is being able to hold the outside form and the ditch below is two wide to center the pour wall part. So think of an 8" or 6" wide wall. The 6" block wall for the plate may be changed to an 8" block wall and then the block on footer then would change to 12" as opposed to 10" The code officer will let you know. Or the architect. For all of the forming problems here for as little as a block run you have stay with block wall to bring it out if the ground.
For as often As I put up a foundation I rarely go all pour. I only do it for a frost footer for a patio here. frost is 18" here.
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I guess I am just looking at having to have 2 separate, very small loads of ready mix delivered and was wondering if there is a way to avoid that?
Sure mix the footer by hand and deliver the floor load. The footer is about a half a yd. Get some Portland cement concrete sand and 2B clean stone delivered. I always mix it ourselves under a yd or so. The deliver here is over $100.00, plus sur charges etc. Environmental etc.
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Makes sense.
So I met the other day with a mason in the area and discussed the project with him. I just got his quote back. Can you let me know what you think?
The scope of work includes:
1) Footer
2) Foundation
3) Brick veneer (using brick salvaged from demo on the home)
4) New slab (demo the old and poor a new)
5) Convert one window in brick wall into a doorway
6) Cut new doorway in brick wall
The price is $4,600.
I know that prices differ from area to area and of course I plan on getting additional quotes, but does this seem reasonable? High? I have heard good things about the company and they are actually located just 2 blocks away from my home. He suggested doing things exactly as you have suggested.
Thanks!
That's a ***** of a good price. Even though it 5x10 it takes more time per output than a bigger Job. I call it Job rhythm. Break the rhythm and keep changing gears cost burn time
Get two more prices and the average will appear. Don't just look at price. A good tradesmen is always Worth it.
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Absolutely not just about price, but these guys are known to be good and they are VERY local, which counts in an area like DC.
I haven't asked him yet, but what are your thoughts on my offering to do some of the grunt work? Like breaking up the slab, digging the holes for the footer, etc? Do you think I'd save enough to make it worth it? Would you as a pro ever go for something like that? Or is it just foolish?
I usually don't because I end up babysitting the customer and never gets paid for that. Ask him and see how much diff.
Great. Thanks so much.
I am planning to spend a good chunk of the weekend working on the project and of course I have a few more questions. Truly, thank you so much for your help. I appreciate your willingness to help me reason things out, and help me figure out where I should hire out.
So, I will absolutely hire out all the masonry work, it doesn't make sense not to. I am planning to do the framing myself as we discussed. 1) What do you recommend as exterior sheathing (what material? What thickness? Etc?) 2) What do you recommend for the subfloor(what material? What thickness? Etc?)
What are your thoughts on foam board insulation applied on top of the exterior sheathing? Obviously insulation is a good thing. Any thoughts?
Ok, now for the roof. Thank you for walking me through how to frame a flat roof and the parapets, I think I've got that all figured out. I've been looking at different roofing options and it seems like the best option for me is EPDM. Given it is such a small area, I think I am will to take this on myself. It seems like is an easy to work with material. Any tips or hints on working with it?
Also, do you suggest doing the roof or the siding first? Which works best?
Thanks!
As I recall you have 2x12 joist in main house. I mentioned 2x8s at the 5' layout and mentioned for you to go the 10' for solving the cantilever problem on the brick to siding. Since the original joist are 2x12s I would use the same since you are now going the 10' way. This makes a nice joist bay for mechanicals and drainage if that's the case here. Its not much more since its only 5' wide. OC for joist is 16". Use 3/4 tongue and grove for the sub floor. I use adhesive caulk to keep the squeaks out from joist to ply sub floor. Also install joist bridges between joist bays. The x look. You can buy them they are metal.
So from inside out. Please use 2x6s for framing. then 1/2" OSB. House wrap over that. I would consider spray foam for the insulation for the walls.
Compare Spray Foam | McGlaughlin Spray Foam Insulation
It cost more but in these times saving Heat is a good move and the diff will come back quicker.
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Thanks.
Yes, I am absolutely planning on using 2x12 for the joists.
On the subfloor, you apply the adhesive caulk (liquid nails?) to the joists, then lay down the subfloor and screw it down, right?
I was going to install joist bridges, didn't know you could buy them pre-made. Thanks!
As for framing the walls, what do you think if I frame the basement level in 2x6s and then the second and third levels in 2x4? Or, what about just framing the upper level in 2x4?
I am thinking I will do ceiling joists on the upper level (so I can have a flat ceiling) and then roof rafters above. I will use 2x12s for the roof, right? How about for the ceiling joists, can I just do 2x6?
Any idea what the cost difference is for spray foam? Is that something I can DIY?
Any experience with EPDM or membrane roofing?
ROOFING 2x10 Min rafters. The 2x10s are for the sole purpose of getting enough room for (R) value. (check your Geo) Just remember the insul can't touch the roof ply and a min 2" breath room is required. There are styro 'baffles" that will accomplish that and as the pitch increases it won't be nesscarry. Not sure of pitch here. 2x12s may be a have to for breathing. Bottom of roof "3rd floor ceiling can be 2x6s 16 OC. to carry drywall.Quote:
Originally Posted by ;
Rafters 16" OC. Normally a roof is 24" OC. But yours is flat and 10 rafter and Heavy snow/ice load can happen. Its 5/8" exterior sheeting with the roof clips per rafter bay. The 30lb felt on that...
Now for the rubber part. The smallest roll widths here is 10'. I know that sounds perfect for you but its not that way. You have to think of the parapet walls and that extra.
Over the felt you will get a 1/2 4x8 board at the rubber roof supply house. It's a fiberboard. This is screwed down with metal caps that are about 3" round. Use their screws to do this. After that you need to lay out the rubber. Here I use a lot of 060 gage. I'm not there to measure up the rubber part but heres the application. Lay out the rubber dry and leave plenty enough room to go UP the parapet walls. 8" if you have that. There is a 'termination bar" that used to go over rubber on the parapet walls. They are Tap Con in. Leave a bit over that "bar" and cut excess rubber off after the tap con is done. this will be caulked there with SPM seal which is at the rubber supply house. You are going to over Lapp the rubber roof because of the 10' factor is going to be flipped. So count on the roof as 5' wide plus the walls it goes up. Leave enough to go over the edge of the 5' side and the other partial side. After the rubber is on install the drip edge. Over that you will either cut from left over rubber a 6' wide pieces. This will be laid from the top of the drip edge back. It needs to be glued down with "Lapp cement" glue. Its a contact cement. Sap a chalk line 6" away from drip edge and coat the cement there let it get barely tacky. Have ready the 6" piece that also has the same cement on it. Now install. The seam there is caulked with SPM seal. A nice bead.
You will have a different cement for the rubber to the felt board. They best way to put down the rubber is half at a time. Lay it all out fold back half. Use roller to ally glue. Now do the half you folded back Let dry to almost no tack. Bend roll that folded half over glued felt board half. Do other side same way. If you have to overlap its 4" on the overlap. All overlaps require SPM seal "caulk"
Always run rubber roof Under the drip edge, Not just to the edge of the roof. This insures that any water will have to run over or under the drip edge if the 6" rubber lap fails at the SPM seal there. I let extra and cut off after drip edge is put on.
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Spray foam is tricky. Hiring a company is usually 3 times that in fiberglass. You can Do it on your own. First check with local fire/building codes on approved foam. There are many diff types. Here is a site for the DYI if you want to give it a go. I would practice with the spray "stuff" before doing the walls. A foam wall is so insulated and 'tight" blocks sound well.
YouTube - Tiger Foam. Spray Foam Insulation | basement & crawl space.
Tiger Foam | Spray Foam Insulation Kits
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Ok, great.
So, I will construct the 3rd floor ceiling using 2x6 and the construct the roof using either 2x10 or 2x12. Just to make sure I understand, the roof joists will terminate on the rim joist of the 3rd floor ceiling, right?
I have read a lot of instruction guides on the EPDM roof, it actually seems pretty straight forward. Thanks for all the tips!
So, for framing the walls, what do you think if I frame the basement level in 2x6s and then the second and third levels in 2x4? Or, what about just framing the upper level in 2x4? I need to maximize every inch in the bathrooms!
Also, the 3rd floor bathroom will have an antique cast iron clawfoot tub which weighs close to 300 lbs. without water. So I need to sister the 2x12 joists or should they be sufficient?
[QUOTE=;] the roof joists will terminate on the rim joist of the 3rd floor ceiling, right?/QUOTE]
Personally I think of 2x4s as interior walls only. If you have to use 2x4s and code allows it I would defiantly use foam insul there.
(TUB) I would maybe sister up 2 joist with a 2x8 for dead load of tub. Its only 10- for clear span. Normally that's not done but I have seen some sunken joist over may years of dead weight..
NOTE: when you lay out the floor joist for the bathroom think of the toilet and tub drainage. To tweak a joist can save a major problem later. The toilet is the bigge. The "closet flange" for the toilet needs to be 12' from FINISH wall to center of toilet bolts. It seems to never fail we hit dead on a joist or on the side of a joist. They have Offset flanges to help get around that bu if a joist can be moved for layout since its only five feet wide not a biggie. You can chase out from another side of the 16 oc to accommodate.
When laying out the roof and ceiling joist they will be offset from each other by 1 1/2" and nailed to the sides of each other.
Thanks.
I under stand the roof issue now, much better.
Can I just get the double joist hangers and sister all of the tub level joists with 2x12?
21 Boat-
Ok, so I've run into a tiny problem, hoping your years of experience can help!
I spoke with my neighbor yesterday about the project. He thinks it is a great idea, but he expressed some concern about my demo'ing the brick privacy wall that separates his back concrete landing from mine. The wall is built right on the property line, 4" of it are on his property and 4" of it are mine. The real problem is his now deceased mother had the wall built and so there is some sentimental value for him and his sister.
We really like our neighbor and I understand the sentimental thing, both my parents are deceased. That said, we need to do something because it doesn't work the way it is now. I think legally we'd be fine demo'ing it, but that is an awfully crappy move, not to mention I will need access to his property during the construction phase, to put up side and the like, so I am not sure it would serve me well.
Also, you'll notice from the photo I posted earlier that it has a bit of an odd shape and is just 6' high by about 7' in length. This will NOT be a load bearing wall, because as we've discussed, the joists, floor and roof will run the 10' span.
So, a couple of ideas...
1) It is a double wythe brick wall. It looks to have been constructed soundly, can I just build on top of it? My only concern is that it isn't tied into the vertical house wall in anyway except with a bit of mortar. Is this even possible? If so, there are certainly some issues, for sure, but is it even remotely possible. This method, however I think would actually reduce my costs, right?
2) I suppose I could have my mason just reuse the brick and do that portion of the wall in a brick veneer. This method would certainly increase my costs, but not sure by how much. I plan on giving the mason a call to see. I am not sure if this is an acceptable solution for the neighbor, and depending on the added cost, might not be for me. (I am already planning on paying $600 to trim down his iron landing that encroaches on my property).
So, what do you think? Do you have a preference one way or the other? Any suggestions I haven't hit on yet?
I don't want this to look incredibly awkward, although truth be told, we won't really ever see this portion of it, just him. Also, I don't want to do anything that would weaken or threaten the structure, allow greater opportunity for water infiltration, etc. Ultimately our architect will design this, but I'd like to have some ideas. He overheard me talking to contractors and started asking questions, but other than the wall issue, he thinks it's great.
Thanks!
Sorry to get back so late. If the wall is equal on both sides then that's a problem. If you build to the exact line then there will be 4" of brick in front of your wall. If you build on top of the existing wall then you will be over the line 4"Quote:
Originally Posted by ;
I say get rid of that wall and flush it back to the alcove. Then add your addition. Brick veneer that side if it a big issue. At this point the wall is 4" into your line. I realize its a politically think and tread lightly.
Explain that you need to tear down your side of the wall and the other side want set well so it makes sense to re do that wall and remove It to get a nice look on his side. Explain the 4" problem and the logic to remove it and make the job looked planned and has symmetry and not odd in material change on one side.
21 Boat-
Somewhere on here I saw you recommend Chicago Power Tools and Harbor Freight. I am going to need to stock up on some tools for this project including a miter saw (thinking about a 12" sliding compound miter saw), a right angle drill as well as some air nailers.
Obviously I am not a pro, but will be using the tools for a bit more than making flower boxes.
The prices seem great, would Chicago Power tools be a good way for me to go?
Yes I been very happy with Chicago Power tool to price ratio. Harbor freight is great for small compressors and air line quick couples etc. I use them a lot for shipping tools to the Caribbean when I work down there. They have sales constantly and at my store they will offer the sale price and a any of there coupons for general percent off. I made a killing on the price for there largest electric concrete jack hammer and the hand drill attached concrete vibrator. Also I brought down an mud size SDS drill combo chipping hammer which works great for masonry demo and drilling for Tap Cons. Its not as hefty as our Bosch demo hammer we use in the states but that's only a demo hammer. Here some tools I bought over time there and recently.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
This is a drill hammer combo which I shipped to P.R. this year and it works well. This would help in brick pockets and clean up the demo of dividing wall where it meets the houses.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
This is a tool to break up old floor but you should rent it. I use this in P.R. job sites
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
I never had a Bad power tool form harbor freight. They have some junk there but all in all they have good tools for the buck.
Oh, so you own the 12" sliding compound miter saw? I was thinking of buying that. So, you'd recommend?
And the air compressor, is that sufficient for framing?
So, you do a lot of work in PR and the Carib? In my real job I study LatAm and the Caribbean for the government. Love it down there.
Yes it was on sale about a in Feb. After I recommended it to a poster. The dual tank is sufficient for one air nailer. I have many diff compressors. From tow behinds to the dual tanks with the wheel to small dual tanks Like I posted for you to pancake compressors. I mostly use Pass loads for framing re haps and there finisher nailer. I bought form Harbor last summer the roofing nailer I was surprised how well it worked, I have the old Sencos framer and roofing nailer's but they are heavy and clunky to the modern versions.
I have been working in construction on and off for 20+ years. The last project was a 3 story bed and breakfast. The common sense in construction down here is almost non existence. Also the locals here work from 7am to 1pm or so with a lunch brake. I was flown down just to hang commercial doors buy my customer. The workers here are about $90.00 a day and it was still cost effective for mu customer to fly me and some of my guys to do the thinking jobs,
I could give you an earful on P.R. government.
That's where I'm at now typing this. I winter in P.R. and work there.
What do you think of this as a nailer?
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
The tank goes to 115 psi and the gun max is 120 psi. I never set a framer that high. Just cross check the volume which in think is fine here without actually looking as the compressor to double check, Of course both are at the store.
Can I use the same nailer to install the exterior sheathing? Roof sheathing? Subfloor? Siding?
Yes for all except for the siding. I'm not familiar with hardi siding and that will be more than likely hand nailed.Quote:
Originally Posted by ;
You will use different nails for the ext sheeting and use those same nails for subfloor.
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