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-   -   How to fit a blank interior door to existing jam (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=327823)

  • Aug 26, 2009, 04:47 PM
    21boat

    Quote:

    it seems the m aterials used in these doors swells during humid wet summer conitions. These factory primed doors should not swell so much to the point that causes them not to open or close.. wondering if any out here has had similar experiences with these doors?
    Hi jon123. Long time no see. Don't PANIC... What you are experiencing is all to common. The problem is simple.

    You installed the doors in March and I'm sure they worked fine. I also assume they were painted after that. BUT Almost everybody forgets to paint the bottom edge of the door and there's the problem. The bottom is 99% the culprit for letting moisture in and swells the door, guaranteed.

    A primer on a door is bascially just that. It seals but only to an extent over time.

    Quote:

    doors are not meant for damp humity weather conditions
    The Only door in the world that handels damp conditions not to swell is is a fiberglass or steel door. ALL other doors HAS to be painted on all edges to Seal the door. So if you didn't paint the door then you aren't labile here. If you did paint them then wait until they shrink and paint all edges. The top is forgotten at times but the bottom is forgotten A lot...

    You can shim the hinges to stop them sticking and paint later.
  • Aug 26, 2009, 07:49 PM
    jon123
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 21boat View Post
    Hi jon123. long time no see. DONT PANIC... What you are experiencing is all to common. The problem is simple.

    You installed the doors in March and I'm sure they worked fine. I also assume they were painted after that. BUT Almost everybody forgets to paint the bottom edge of the door and theres the problem. The bottom is 99% the culprit for letting moisture in and swells the door, guaranteed.

    A primer on a door is bascially just that. It seals but only to an extent over time.

    The Only door in the world that handels damp conditions not to swell is is a fiberglass or steel door. ALL other doors HAS to be painted on all edges to Seal the door. So if you didn't paint the door then you aren't labile here. If you did paint them then wait until they shrink and paint all edges. The top is forgotten at times but the bottom is forgotten A lot....

    You can shim the hinges to stop them sticking and paint later.

    thanks boat, I'm going to bring over a dremel planer and a big stanley electric door planer.. remove the doors after I scribe what needs to be plained, I will likely plain the hinge side only thereby avoiding messing with latch backset.. I will bring the primer sealant as you recommended.. I will make a set of 1x4 stands to make it go faster.. should only cost me a few hrs.. It is a just one of those things I will remember next time I get doors to door.. I will prime where the doors need sealant but likely be sure I go big on all the reveals even if it requires a bit more time plaining the hinge sides first. Ty for you quick professional reply my good man
  • Aug 26, 2009, 09:47 PM
    21boat

    Are you sure you need to plain. Shimming the hings can throw a barrel pretty far.

    Don't forget to reset the hing depth on the door. If not the slam side won't change unless you shim hing back.

    When planeing the edges always start the planer going into the door edge. Stop before you get to the furthest end. You can run a high risk chipping off that edge away from you.

    I use a belt sander to finish up.

    Another thing is when you buy a door blank its not handed the door edge is not beveled. I usually put a slight bevel on the edges to close easier. The smallest with of a beveled edge door is on its closed side against stops/slam strips. When your done take the belt sander and lightly run it along the door edges at a 45 to soften the fibers and keep it from chipping.
  • Aug 27, 2009, 05:54 PM
    jon123

    boat, I was in and out in less than a half hr.. Out of the 8 blanks 4 were sticking on the jam (latch side) what I did was used a block of wood 5/4x2x12 long and banged over the jam just enough.. I than used finish# 8s needed only three per jam to hold it there.. used a squeeze tube of sealant where the paint cracked and bingadabang ! But I did learn more as for next time and will certainly consider taking off as deemed necessary to allow for this kind of expansion.. I will also remember to paint or advise customer to paint the whole door as you explained. Thank you and you been a great help to me!
  • Aug 27, 2009, 07:41 PM
    21boat

    Glad to help Jon123. I'm laughing on the calibrated hammer.
  • Aug 29, 2009, 07:04 AM
    jon123
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 21boat View Post
    Glad to help Jon123. I'm laughing on the calibrated hammer.

    Oh yes lol, the ole true and tested calibrationing 16oz straight claw stanley made easy work :p

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