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-   -   Fixing cement patio slope (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=375650)

  • Jul 14, 2009, 03:48 PM
    Brerich1
    fixing cement patio slope
    A contractor poured the 14 X14 foot patio pretty well, but left low areas where water /ice gathers. How thick should a second layer be to fine tune the top? What mix cement?
  • Jul 14, 2009, 04:17 PM
    21boat

    How deep are the puddles?
    No matter what you put on there it will be a band aid. All exterior concrete should have min 1/4" per ft slope.

    If this is a new pour get the contractor back.

    The definition of puddle in concrete is a nickle thick/deep. There are toppings for concrete but that expensive and doesn't look good in color as new concrete would.

    Personally I would bite the bullet and rip out and pour it right. No worries. Pound for pound its the best solution in the long run.

    The problem with pouring concrete over that Of 3" plus you run a big risk of water getting trapped between the layers and freezing and cracking the 2nd pour.

    Snapping the concrete is easy with a bottle jack to lift it up and a sledge and digging iron. Hauling it away is the big cost.
  • Jul 14, 2009, 04:39 PM
    ballengerb1

    I'd have to agree. Your definition of pretty well is probably hanging on general looks. Our definition is also on function. A flat or bellied pour is a poor pour.
  • Jul 14, 2009, 05:23 PM
    Brerich1
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 21boat View Post
    How deep are the puddles?
    No matter what you put on there it will be a band aid. All exterior concrete should have min 1/4" per ft slope.

    If this is a new pour get the contractor back.

    The definition of puddle in concrete is a nickle thick/deep. There are toppings for concrete but that expensive and doesn't look good in color as new concrete would.

    Personally I would bite the bullet and rip out and pour it right. No worries. Pound for pound its the best solution in the long run.

    The problem with pouring concrete over that Of 3" plus you run a big risk of water getting trapped between the layers and freezing and cracking the 2nd pour.

    Snapping the concrete is easy with a bottle jack to lift it up and a sledge and digging iron. Hauling it away is the big cost.

    Thanks for the good info - I don't think the owner will want to rip up the pad now and the contractor is ill now. So I'm on my own here. Iguess bonding agent, plymer additive, maybe and a 2 inch overlay will have to do it. Any mix recipe suggestions?
  • Jul 14, 2009, 05:38 PM
    21boat

    Quote:

    Any mix recipe suggestions?
    Maybe Bal1 has a good answer here. I pretty much stay out of residential concrete topping simply because It has bitten me in the butt to often in customers not likeing the looks and manufactures not backing the product

    The only topping I use is a Master builders product which is more commercial industrial. Re surfacing floors that Tow motors drive over etc. Its actually more expensive then a new pour. But turn around time is quick for the factory. The wear hardness is incredible Up to a wear hardness of 9 "Anvil Top"

    "Master Builders" based our of England not only back the product but the Job cost. They send reps out on install. The wildest product they have is "set 45" which means you can repair a concrete roadway pot hole and pull the barricades out in 45 min for truck/car traffic.

    Bal don't know if you ever tried set 45. I also use in in concrete decking repair to plug up holes where mechanicals went through floor. Renovating a hospital, Could fill holes before lunch and lay VCT tile after lunch. Also for res. Concrete floors bathroom renovations. Flooring the same day. Just thought I pass that along..
  • Jul 14, 2009, 05:50 PM
    Brerich1
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 21boat View Post
    I pretty much stay out of residential concrete topping simply because It has bitten me in the butt

    The only topping I use is a Master builders product which is more commercial industrial. Re surfacing floors that Tow motors drive over etc. Its actually more expensive then a new pour. But turn around time is quick for the factory. The wear hardness is incredible Up to a wear hardness of 9 "Anvil Top"

    Thanks again 21Boat.. . Hmm, I see this is more complicated than I thought. Maybe just some Quikrete Fast setting Patch (doesn't need bonding agent I'm told) to fill in those pesky low spots - they aren't deep. Though there are some rough raised swirl ridges too where the guy let his grandson horse into it... But a thin, 2" or so resurface pour is iffy...
    Well, looks like a puzzle. Thanks again, though. Brerich1
  • Jul 14, 2009, 05:56 PM
    21boat

    Brerich1.

    You might want to visit a real Masonry supply house and they have many different applications for this. Also they have the expertise on the actual products.
  • Jul 14, 2009, 07:24 PM
    Brerich1
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 21boat View Post
    Brerich1.

    You might want to visit a real Masonry supply house and they have many different applications for this. Also they have the expertise on the actual products.


    Okay, Great. Off to Builders Msaon Supply tomorrow... Thanks for the good advice and your time. Brerich1

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