Hey every one I got a hyundai sonata 98 not working I'm trying to bring it to life. Yesterday I finally made it start after I replace all the belts including timing belt (adjuster belt was broken) it started at first try but it was running rough I am sure I alighned everything as supposed. Then itshutted down so I tried again and it started. Any ideas?

Perhaps I am old school... how long did it sit.. not running? If it sat for a long time. Did you clean out all of the fuel lines, drain the gas tank? Replace the spark plugs and the wires?

Thanks for your answer I will clean all the fuel system and cables,sparklugs,and coil. Do you know how can I test the crank position sensor?

I'd focus on the Ignition Control Module (ICM). Apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the ICM, if you decide to replace it. Also, don't overlook replacing the fuel filter.

Thanks tx I claened all the fuel system,sparkplugs,cables, and coil. Everything is good. How can I check the ICM? Don't you think the crank position sensor could be the problem? Thanks in advance

Yes, the CKP could definitely be the problem. Take the ICM to AutoZone and have them test it on their Well's machine. My experience has been if it tests bad it is really bad. However, if it tests okay, it may still be bad. Instead, I recommend changing these problematic components every 125,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

I got a po110 code on my 98 hyundai sonata which is a problem with iat sensor (obd2) I called autozone and they said this car doesn't have this kind of sensor any help is welcomed thanks

You have an Ambient Air Temperature Sensor

1998 Hyundai Sonata 2.0L MFI DOHC 4cyl
AutoZone Part Number: SU2181
$17.99

I couldn't check it today. I've been trying to find any information on the internet but nothing shown for hyundai sonata. Can you tell me where is it located? Thanks

Likely on the air intake. Look at the picture on AutoZone's website and then locate it on your car.

Hey tex I will tell you everything what I did to my car so maybe you could give me a diagnose. I got this car from some one after he had it park for about 6 months when I got it I started by checking all the motor belts,cables,spark plugs,fuel filter,starter,cam and crank sensors everything was good but the timing tensioner that was broken so I replaced it. After I finished putting everything back together I started it and it ran rough so I adjusted the speed sensor and when idle the car runs smooth but as soon as I engage the speed (automatic transmission) the rpm go up and down. Do you have any idea what could be the problem?

Fluctuating rpm is often a dead giveaway that the ICM is bad. Did you ever replace it?

No I haven't ever replaced it I'm going to remove it later and take it to autozone to see if it good. It does the fluctuating only when the transmition is engage it and as soon as I push the acelerator it runs pure smooth no problems at all I can run it at 90mph and I can't feel I am that fast even on the hills it does not reduce its speed much

Here's the deal with AutoZone's Well's machine. If it tests good, it may not be good; however, if it tests bad, it is bad. That's been my experience. Instead, I now recommend replacing ICMs every 125,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

My 98 hyundai sonata does not start. I have checked the starter and is good,I replaced the alternator,the ignition coil is good ,no problems with the gasoline pump. Any body has an idea what else to check? I don't know what the crank sensor is for. Can some one tell me? Thank you every one

The CKP Sensor controls timing, by providing the trigger signal for when the ICM fires.

That means the CKP can be the problem then. Is there any way to test it with out remove it off the car?

Also do you know how to test the ignition coil pack? My car is a 4 cylinder 2.0 98 hyundai sonata. Well I just need the ohm results thank you tx

Testing coils is pretty much a waste of time, since you cannot test them under load. My rule of thumb is to replace them every 125,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

Yesterday I removed the timing belt cover and I found out the timing belt was missing some teeth. I started cheching here and there and I saw that the 98 hyundai sonata I is a interference engine. What that mean? If you can explain me. I also found out there's no power coming out of the coil so I'm going to replace it today. I checked all my fuses and relays are good and I have power in the coil connector. What I am worried about now is if my valvs are good or bent. Is there any way I can inspect them before I tried to start my car? Thank you

Bad news! It's likely significant valve and piston damage has taken place, due to it being an interference engine. What that means is the pistons collide with the valves, when the timing belt breaks and/or slips. Go slow before spending any more money on the car--check everything out very carefully for internal engine damage. Perform a compression test on each cylinder--that should definitively tell you if the engine is any good.

When you replaced the timing belt, did you install the correct belt and did you set the tension properly?

Im going to do that later after work. Hope there's no damage. I put the belt that I was told by the auto parts store was for my car and I adjusted turning the crank pulley about 3 teeths of the belt counterclockwise. Thanks tx

When you adjusted the tension, were you on the compression stroke? It makes a difference, since you need that resistance for the spring to set the proper tension. The belt running from the camshaft to the crankshaft should be "banjo" tight.

I Cant get any compression in any of the cylinders. I think is because I don't have spark in any of the spark plugs. Can it be that possible?

Remove all of the spark plugs, attach the compression gauge to the first cylinder, have a friend crank the starter motor for several revolutions, and record the reading. Then, do the same thing for the other 3 cylinders.

No I have no compression in all the four cylinders. Im really worried about that

It would probably be cheaper and easier to install a remanufactured engine.

I removed the valve cap and I found that all the spring heads felt down of the springs on the exhaust train valve. I think that's why I don't have any compression at all. Do you really think is better to install a remanufactured or new engine other than just replace the valves or head?

It sounds like the pistons collided with the valves. What you are seeing now is only the tip of the iceberg. In all likelihood, valves are bent, valve guides are destroyed, the camshaft may be bent, and pistons and connecting rods may be damaged. I would install a remanufactured engine that exactly matches the one that is in the car now. Then, you won't have ECM and other electronic compatibility problems.

Im going to start looking for one because I turned the crank pulley by hand and I can hear a really bad noice like when you take bearings in your hand and smash them together. Now I need to call some places. Thank you tx. If you don't have any problem I would keep bothering you with my questions

Keep 'em coming.

Check AutoZone and O'Reillys--get a meaningful guarantee from someone who will stand behind it. Start using Mobil 1 5W-30 in the new engine right from the get go.

I checked both az ans oreilly and the engines are expensive there 2500 dollars. That's too much for my budget. Do you know what engine fits in my car without much adjustments other that the original??

No. You need to get an exact match, otherwise the ECM, wiring harness, etc. won't be compatible.

I removed the head cylinder and all exhaust valves were bent then I checked the pistons for scratches and they were good I also turned the crank pulley by hand and no noice while turning so I decided to just go to the junk yard and get an used head which I got from a back smashed car. I sent it to the shop and I installed it. I checked for compression and I got 155 in 3 of the 4 cylinder and 135 in number 2. I think I'm lucky.thanks tx for all your help

Good job. Keep us posted with how it runs.

Car is running good other than a misfiring. It is strong and smooth. I scanned it and I have a code p0013

Try clearing all codes and see if it comes back--it may be left over in the PCM from before. Otherwise, P0013 B Camshaft Position – Actuator Circuit (Bank 1).

Ok tx I have 3 different codes: P0300,p0110,and p0136 my obd tells me that p0300 is a misfiring,p0110 is for the intake temp sensor and p0136 is for the O2 sensor number 2. Actually I have 4 codes 2.P0300. Are all three codes related one to another? And what happen if I replace only the O2 sensor? Could the other 2 fix by themselves just replacing O2 sensor?

Yes, replacing the oxygen sensor may clear several other codes. Only buy an OEM or Denso oxygen sensor for your car. Beforehand, check for any vacuum leaks.

Hey tx lets see if you can give me a diagnosis with what I am going to describe. Yesterday my car (98 hyundai sonata) started running rough. Rpm dropped to almost cero but the car didn't stall and when I push the gas it last a about 5 seconds to move slow then I kept pushing the gas and it started moving faster but the rpms did not go over 3000 and the speed not over 60 mph. I check the timing belt to see if it slipped and I cleaned the injectors,I checked for any vacuum leaking and there's none I check the compression and the only one that is low is number one 165 all the other three are 180+. Do you know what I have to check next?