Replaced timing belt got tdc but still no start heard dull thud ? 180 out ? Crank sensor ?
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Replaced timing belt got tdc but still no start heard dull thud ? 180 out ? Crank sensor ?
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...le-303903.html
If you lined up the timing marks on the crankshaft and the camshaft properly, you can't be 180 degrees off--maybe one tooth. Make sure you properly set the tension on the T-Belt, while on the compression stroke, and properly torqued the tensioner pulley afterwards. The problem may be with the Crankshaft Position Sensor, Ignition Control Module (ICM), and/or coil. Check for spark.
Hopefully the "thud " isn't the pistol hitting the valves.How did you set the timing marks?
Can I bypass CPS. Cause gear on balancer that it rides on is broke .Quote:
Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey
What caused you to replace the T-Belt--preventive maintenance, snapped belt, or blown head gasket?
Ripped and worn was the belt ,Quote:
Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey
What year, make, model, and engine?
It's a non- interference motorQuote:
Originally Posted by ma0641
96 ranger xlt 2.3 L. Manual.Quote:
Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey
. Check for codes.
. Check all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter.
. Check for spark. If none, focus on the Crankshaft Position Sensor, Ignition Control Module (ICM), and coil.
. Check for fuel. Can you hear the fuel pump run, when the ignition switch is turned to ON?
Truck was in accident Will codes still be there had battery disconnectedQuote:
Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey
Did you also line up the oil pump sprocket timing mark with the inner cover timing mark?
Attach battery and try to start the engine. Force new codes to be thrown, if necessary.
Since the truck was in an accident, you will also have to reset the Inertia Switch, which cuts off fuel to the engine during impact.
Already reset inertia switch . Will see if giving codes . And double check spark and fuel .Quote:
Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey
YesQuote:
Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey
Have fuel , good spark , checked fuses all good , Also have exhaust backfireQuote:
Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey
A failing ICM will allow you to see spark, even though it's firing at the wrong time. I've seen this many times. It would account for the backfire.
It's not backfiring anymore sounds strong , will check icm like you said , is there an easy way to check?Quote:
Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey
It's running? What did you do?
No sounds normal turning over just won't start , is easy way to check icm or coil packs ?Quote:
Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey
Was it running before you decided to do the belt?
If it was running before, then it should run now unless you did something wrong. If the ICM doesn't fix it, I would pull it apart and make sure all the timing marks are where they are supposed to be.
Are you saying that there is something wrong with the Crank Position Sensor?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mbarn965
My experience has been that bench testing ICMs and coils is pretty much a waste of time. Instead, I recommend replacing them every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.
You can take your ICM and have it tested on a Well's machine at AutoZone. My experience has been if it tests bad it really is bad. However, if it tests okay, it may or may not work properly. The test doesn't simulate the conditions under load (heat) well enough.
Does the Check Engine Light come on and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON?
The crank pulley , balancer is one piece with a gear for CPS , the gear is broke in a sectionQuote:
Originally Posted by odinn7
No. If there's something wrong with the "tone ring," that's your problem. That totally throws the timing off. Your ICM and coil, then, are likely fine. You need a new crank pulley/tone ring, if it's really broken.Quote:
Can I bypass CPS. Cause gear on balancer that it rides on is broke.
Thank you , does tone ring separate from pulley and balancer or is it one piece ?Quote:
Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey
I'm not sure on your truck. It may bolt on to the back of the crankshaft damper. Regardless, you'll need to remove it again and then you can see what you have.
The "trigger wheel" often has 35 evenly spaced teeth and one gap where a 36th tooth would be. The gap lets the CKP sensors signal the PCM when the crankshaft is 60 degrees before TDC. Trigger wheels are tough--just make sure there's really something wrong with your's.
[QUOTE=TxGreaseMonkey;3373804]The "trigger wheel" often has 35 evenly spaced teeth and one gap where a 36th tooth would be. The gap lets the CKP sensors signal the PCM when the crankshaft is 60 degrees before TDC. Trigger wheels are tough--just make sure there's really something wrong with your's.[/QUOT
Yep , if I could I'd text you a pic, two or three teeth missing . 7576965020
That's the solution to your problem. Try salvage.
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