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Check out these tips and explanations from our Senior Cars & Trucks Expert.
Of course, you're also welcome to post questions to this board for more information: Just click the "Ask about Cars & Trucks" button (NOT the Answer this Question button) at the top of the page. Be sure, though, to check the list below to see if your issue is already covered.
Members: Please do not post replies in this thread. If you have a question, click on the Ask About Cars & Trucks button above.
Honda:
. Honda OBD-II Diagnostic Trouble Codes (1996 and Later)
. Ignition Timing Adjustment
. Fuel Pump Test and Replacement
. Fuel Pressure Regulator Test
. Fuel Filter Replacement
. Main Relay Harness Tests
. Main Relay Ventilation Holes
. Fuel Injector Replacement
. Oxygen Sensor Replacement
. Headlight Replacement
. Combination Light Switch Replacement
. Headlight Adjustment
. Starter Motor Replacement
. Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement
. Battery Acid Damage
. Changing Spark Plugs
. Changing Engine Oil and Filter
. Changing Power Steering Fluid
. Changing Manual Transmission Fluid
. CV Driveshaft: Inspection
. CV Driveshaft: Removal
. CV Driveshaft: Disassembly
. CV Driveshaft: Repacking and Reassembly
. CV Driveshaft: Installation
. PCV Valve Replacement
. Clutch Pedal Maintenance
. Windshield Wiper Motor Replacement
. Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement
General Automotive:
. Preventing Coil-On-Plug (COP) Problems
. Antifreeze: Automaker Approved Chemistry
. Radiator and Heater Hose Replacement
. Radiator Winter Hyper Cooling (Winter Front)
. Eliminating Air Conditioning System Odors
. Importance of Changing Automatic Transmission Filter
. Serpentine Belt and Pulley Replacement
. Idler Pulley Bearing Replacement
. Reading a Tire's Manufacturing Date
. After Clearing Codes, How Many Miles Do You Need To Drive Before You Can Have The Car Inspected?
. Engine Misfires
. Rear Window Defogger Troubleshooting
. Toyota to Begin Requiring 0W-20 Synthetic Engine Oil
. Brake Booster Test
. Locating Vacuum Leaks
. Buying a Used Car or Truck
. Block/Head Sealers
. Heater Problems
. Buying a Salvage Engine
. GM's New Radio Code Procedure
Ford and Mercury:
. How-to Clean the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
. How-to Change the Fuel Filter on Most Ford Cars and Trucks
. How-to Replace Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly on a 1996 thru 2001 Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable
. How-to Replace Front Sway Bar Bushings on Ford Tauruses and Mercury Sables
. How-to Perform Electronic Air Temperature Control (EATC) On-Board Diagnostic Tests on Many Fords and Mercurys
. How-to Stop Vacuum Hose Leaks
. How-to Remove and Install a Transmission Range Sensor (TRS)
. How-to Change Front and Rear Bulbs on a 2000 and Later Ford Taurus
. FordParts.Com
. Replacing Front Rotors on Ford 4x4s
See Also:
12. Honda Ignition Timing Adjustment
1. Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2. Adjust “Final Idle Speed” to 700 rpm, using the idle speed adjustment procedures above.
3. Turn off engine and all electrical systems.
4. Jump the Service Check Connector (SCC) with a paper clip.
5. Connect positive inductive timing light lead to the positive battery terminal.
6. Connect negative inductive timing light lead to engine ground.
7. Connect inductive timing light lead to the No. 1 spark plug wire.
8. Start engine.
9. Using the timing light, rotate the distributor, after loosening the three 12mm mounting bolts, until timing is set to 16 degrees BTDC* on the crankshaft pulley. 16 degrees BTDC should be the middle of the three clustered hash marks on the pulley. Align middle hash mark on pulley with pointer above. You may want to take chalk or yellow paint and highlight the hash mark first.
10. Button everything up.
11. Remove the BACKUP fuse for 10 seconds, in order to reset the computer. Record any radio codes first.
*D15B7/D15Z1/D16Z6 engines.
31. Starter Motor Replacement
On most 4-cylinder Civics and Accords, the starter motor is located on the passenger's side of the transmission, just beneath and to the rear of the distributor. The large starter motor cable, from the positive battery terminal, goes right to it.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the starter cable from the "B" terminal on the solenoid, then the BLK/WHT wire from the "S" terminal.
3. Remove the two bolts (14 mm) holding the starter; then, remove the starter. A 3/8-inch drive ratchet wrench or breaker bar, with a 6-inch extension, usually does the trick. Spray both bolts with PB Blaster, Kroil, or Liquid Wrench first.
4. Install in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: When installing the starter cable, ensure the crimped side of the ring terminal is facing out. It's a good idea to clean both terminals and connectors with #240 abrasive cloth, or steel wool, and coat with dielectric grease.
25. Honda Oxygen Sensor Replacement
Trick: Take a small flashlight and and figure out how the oxygen sensor's 4-wire pigtail connector comes apart--don't force it. Frequently, the trick is to gently separate the connector from the bayonet mount first; then, it easily comes apart or it's apparent how it unlocks. Honda connectors can be tricky and give some do-it-yourselfers a fit.
Background. The basic job of the sensor is to monitor the air fuel mixture under idle, moderate acceleration, and cruise conditions. Under heavy acceleration, the oxygen sensor goes into "open loop," which basically means the ECM ignores the oxygen sensor.
Removal. Remove heat shield, spray old oxygen sensor with PB Blaster or Kroil (let it sit for a while), spray with PB Blaster or Kroil again, warm-up car for several minutes, and use a 15-inch breaker bar on the end of a 22mm oxygen sensor socket to remove sensor. Afterwards, clean threads thoroughly with brake cleaner, allow to sit for quite a while and "air out," and install new oxygen sensor with anti-seize compound. Good cleaning technique is a must. Tighten to 33 lb-ft or 4.5 kg-m. Lightly coat heat shield bolts with anti-seize compound, before reinstalling the heat shield.
I am not a fan of universal oxygen sensors or those made by Bosch for Hondas. I recommend Denso sensors. Over time, you want the best sensor or you will pay for it in poor gas mileage and performance. Oxygen sensors are EXTREMELY sensitive to anything, particularly silicone spray, RTV sealers, WD-40, or any oil on the pigtail connector. Don't even use non-chlorinating brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner on oxygen sensor connectors. NEVER use any of these products around the oxygen sensor or pigtail connector. If you do, the ECM will keep throwing a code forever, once the engine warms up and is out of "open loop" mode. Remove pigtail connector and gently dress the male and female connectors with jeweler files, if you suspect any contamination.
After replacing the oxygen sensor, on OBD-I vehicles, clear the Check Engine Light by removing the Back Up (7.5 A) Fuse in the under hood fuse box, or by disconnecting the negative battery cable, for 10 seconds to reset the ECM. On OBD-II vehicles, use a code reader or scan tool to reset the ECM.
Excellent teaching thread on oxygen sensors:
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...gs-460682.html
28. Honda Civic Headlight Replacement
1. Remove front turn signal/parking lights.
2. Remove front bumper.
3. Remove mounting bolts and nuts, remove headlight, and disconnect connector.
4. After replacement, adjust headlights to local requirements.
18. Honda Civic Fuel Filter Replacement
The fuel filter should be replaced 1) every 4 years or 60,000 miles, whichever comes first, or 2) whenever the fuel pressure drops below 40-47 psi, with the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and pinched, after making sure that the fuel pump and the fuel pressure regulator are OK.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Place shop towel under and around fuel filter.
3. Relieve fuel pressure, by removing gas cap.
4. Remove 12 mm banjo bolt and 14 mm fuel feed pipe (use flare wrench) from fuel filter.
5. Remove fuel filter clamp and fuel filter.
6. Use new copper washers, when assembling.
7. Tighten banjo bolt to 16 lb-ft, service bolt (middle of banjo bolt) to 11 lb-ft, and fuel feed pipe to 28 lb-ft. Clean flared joint of high pressure hoses thoroughly before reconnecting.
CAUTION: Only change fuel filter when the engine is cold. Keep a Class B fire extinguisher ready. No smoking or open flames allowed (e.g. gas hot water heater, dryer, or furnace). Keep tools a safe distance from battery. Wear safety goggles.
36. Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement
1. Suck brake fluid out of master cylinder reservoir, using a battery squeeze bulb.
2. Disconnect clutch pipe and reservoir hose from clutch master cylinder.
3. Pry out cotter pin, pull pedal pin out of the yoke, and remove mounting nuts.
4. Remove clutch master cylinder.
5. Install clutch master cylinder in reverse order of removal.
6. Bleed system.
Two items are important to remember about hydraulic clutches:
1. Don't overfill the clutch master cylinder reservoir.
2. Change brake fluid every 2 years, to flush crud from the system and replace fluid lubricity and corrosion properties.
15. Fuel Pump Test and Replacement
Test
1. Remove rear seat.
2. Remove access panel (4 screws).
3. Disconnect the 2P connector.
CAUTION: Be sure to turn ignition switch OFF, before disconnecting the wires.
4. Disconnect the main relay connector and connect the BLK/YEL (5) wire and YEL/GRN (7) wire with a jumper wire.
5. Check for battery voltage at the fuel pump connector, when ignition switch is turned ON (position II). Attach red test probe to the YEL/GRN wire and negative probe to the BLK wire. If battery voltage is available, replace the fuel pump. If there is no voltage, check fuel pump ground and wire harness.
Replacement
1. Relieve fuel pressure, by removing fuel tank cap.
2. Remove rear seat.
3. Remove access panel (4 screws).
4. Disconnect fuel lines and connector.
5. Remove fuel pump mounting nuts.
6. Remove fuel pump from fuel tank.
WARNING: Do not smoke while working on fuel system. Keep open flames away from work area.
11. Radiator Winter Hyper Cooling (Winter Front)
Our cold weather friends, living in places like Alaska, Canada, Northern Europe, and the Baltics, who are experiencing insufficient heat during the winter, may want to restrict the airflow through the radiator, by carefully rigging a plastic radiator cover (winter front). You may have to experiment with the proper size--better yet, make it adjustable. This is not an uncommon problem, during the winter, on some vehicles. I'm sure you have seen folding mechanical radiator covers on some delivery trucks. Your heater core, when the blower is turned on high, may be acting like an efficient radiator and dropping the engine temperature too much (hyper cooling). A simple "winter front" could make a big difference in your driving comfort, performance, and gas mileage.
Here are some pictures that may help:
Winter fronts from Alaska Tent and Tarp
Wip
6. Honda OBD-II Diagnostic Trouble Codes (1996 and Later)
Plug scan tool into Data Link Connector (DLC), turn ignition to ON, and read code.
P0106--MAP Circuit Range Or Performance
P0107--MAP Circuit Low Input
P0108--MAP Circuit High Input
P0111--IAT Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0112--IAT Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0113--IAT Sensor Circuit High Input
P0116--ECT Circuit Range Or Performance
P0117--ECT Circuit Low Input
P0118--ECT Circuit High Input
P0122--TP Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0123--TP Sensor Circuit High Input
P0131--Primary HO2S Circuit Low Voltage (Sensor 1)
P0132--Primary HO2S Circuit High Voltage (Sensor 1)
P0133--Primary HO2S Circuit Slow Response (Sensor 1)
P0135--Front HO2S Heater Circuit Fault (Sensor 1)
P0137--Secondary HO2S Circuit Low Voltage (Sensor 2)
P0138--Secondary HO2S Circuit High Voltage (Sensor 2)
P0139--Secondary HO2S Circuit Slow Response (Sensor 2)
P0141--Secondary HO2S Heater Circuit Fault (Sensor 2)
P0171--System Too Lean
P0172--System Too Rich
P0300--Random Misfire
P0301--Misfire Cyl. 1 Or Random Misfire
P0302--Misfire Cyl. 2 Or Random Misfire
P0303--Misfire Cyl. 3 Or Random Misfire
P0304--Misfire Cyl. 4 Or Random Misfire
P0305--Misfire Cyl. 5 Or Random Misfire
P0306--Misfire Cyl. 6 Or Random Misfire
P0325--KS Circuit Malfunction
P0335--CKP Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0336--CKP Sensor Range/Performance
P0401--EGR Insufficient Flow Detected
P0420--Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold
P0441--EVAP Emission Control System Improper Purge Flow
P0451--Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P0452--Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0453--Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0500--VSS Circuit Malfunction (M/T)
P0501--VSS Circuit Range/Performance (A/T)
P0505--ICS Malfunction
P0560--Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Backup Voltage Circuit Low Voltage
P0700--A/T Concerns
P0720--A/T Concerns
P0725--A/T Concerns
P0730--A/T Concerns
P0740--A/T Concerns
P0753--A/T Concerns
P0758--A/T Concerns
P0763--A/T Concerns
P0780--A/T Concerns
P1106--BARO Circuit Range/Performance
P1107--BARO Circuit Low Input
P1108--BARO Circuit High Input
P1121--Throttle Position Lower Than Expected
P1122--Throttle Position Higher Than Expected
P1128--MAP Lower Than Expected
P1129--MAP Higher Than Expected
P1149--Primary HO2S (Sensor 1) Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P1162--Primary HO2S (No. 1) Circuit Malfunction
P1163--Primary HO2S (No. 1) Circuit Slow Response
P1164--Primary HO2S (No. 1) Circuit Range/Performance
P1165--Primary HO2S (No. 1) Circuit Range/Performance
P1166--Primary HO2S (No. 1) Heater System Electrical
P1167--Primary HO2S (No. 1) Heater System
P1168--Primary HO2S (No. 1) LABEL Low Input
P1169--Primary HO2S (No. 1) LABEL High Input
P1253--VTEC System Malfunction
P1257--VTEC System Malfunction
P1258--VTEC System Malfunction
P1259--VTEC System Malfunction
P1297--Electrical Load Detector Circuit Low Input
P1298--Electrical Load Detector Circuit High Input
P1300--Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P1336--CSF Sensor Intermittent Interruption
P1337--CSF Sensor No Signal
P1359--CKP/TDC Sensor Connector Disconnection
P1361--TDC Sensor Intermittent Interruption
P1362--TDC Sensor No Signal
P1366--TDC Sensor No. 2 Intermittent Interruption
P1367--TDC Sensor No 2 Signal
P1381--Cylinder Position Sensor Intermittent Interruption
P1382--Cylinder Position Sensor No Signal
P1456--EVAP Emission Control System Leak Detected (Fuel Tank System)
P1457--EVAP Emission Control System Leak Detected (Control Canister System)
P1459--EVAP Emission Purge Flow Switch Malfunction
P1486--Thermostat Range/Performance Problem
P1491--EGR Valve Lift Insufficient Detected
P1498--EGR Valve Lift Sensor High Voltage
P1508--IAC Valve Circuit Failure
P1509--IAC Valve Circuit Failure
P1519--Idle Air Control Valve Circuit Failure
P1607--ECM/PCM Internal Circuit Failure A
P1655--SEAF/SEFA/TMA/TMB Signal Line Failure
P1660--A/T FI Signal A Circuit Failure
P1676--FPTDR Signal Line Failure
P1678--FPTDR Signal Line Failure
P1681--A/T FI Signal A Low Input
P1682--A/T FI Signal A High Input
P1686--A/T FI Signal B Low Input
P1687--A/T FI Signal B High Input
P1705--A/T Concerns
P1706--A/T Concerns
P1738--A/T Concerns
P1739--A/T Concerns
P1753--A/T Concerns
P1758--A/T Concerns
P1768--A/T Concerns
P1773--A/T Concerns
P1785--A/T Concerns
P1786--A/T Concerns
P1790--A/T Concerns
P1791--A/T Concerns
P1792--A/T Concerns
P1793--A/T Concerns
P1794--A/T Concerns
P1870--A/T Concerns
P1873--A/T Concerns
P1879--A/T Concerns
P1885--A/T Concerns
P1886--A/T Concerns
P1888--A/T Concerns
P1890--A/T Concerns
P1891--A/T Concerns
OBD-II Code Definitions
Example:
P 0 1 0 1
1 2 3 4 5
1st digit
P = powertrain
B = Body
C = Chassis
2nd digit
0 = Standard
1 = Manufacturer specific
3rd digit
1 = Emission management
2 = Injector circuit
3 = Ignition
4 = Auxiliary emission
5 = Vehicle speed & idle control
6 = Computer & output circuit
7 = Transmission
41. Battery Acid Damage
Few things can slowly and surely do as much damage to your car as battery acid. The results can be catastrophic; i.e. under-hood fuse/relay boxes, wiring harnesses, air conditioning hoses, power steering units, half axles, and battery trays can be ruined. One way to help prevent this is to not overfill batteries. If you do, acid mist will start to cover surrounding components, when the alternator charges the battery. Another way to help prevent battery acid damage is to make a battery cover. Take a plastic milk jug, cut a hole for the negative battery terminal, and size to fit half the battery. This will help protect the under-hood fuse/relay box on many Civics, which cost around $250, from battery acid. It will also help protect key wiring harnesses and air conditioning components from acid. Finally, I recommend removing the battery from the car every 6 months. During this time, wash the battery, check water levels, and inspect the car for acid damage. It helps to have a spray bottle of baking soda and water handy for problem areas. Strategically place a genuine copper penny or two under the tie-down clamp to help prevent acid build-up on the battery terminals.
17. Fuel Pressure Regulator Test
The fuel pressure regulator maintains a constant fuel pressure to the fuel injectors. When the difference between the fuel pressure and manifold pressure exceeds 43 psi, the diaphragm is pushed upward, and the excess fuel is fed back into the fuel tank through the return line.
Test:
1. Attach fuel pressure gauge to service port of fuel filter. Pressure should be 40-47 psi, with fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and pinched.
2. Reconnect vacuum hose to fuel pressure regulator.
3. Check that fuel pressure rises when vacuum hose from fuel pressure regulator is disconnected again. If fuel pressure did not rise, replace fuel pressure regulator.
20. Main Relay Harness Tests
If you know the main relay is good, hopefully because you replaced it after 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever came first, but it still doesn't operate properly, the main relay harness needs to be inspected. Here's how to do it on many Honda 7-P relays:
1. Disconnect main relay connector. Check for continuity between BLK Terminal 2 and body ground. If there isn't continuity, repair an open in BLK wire between the main relay and the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing. If there is continuity, then:
2. Measure voltage between YEL/WHT Terminal 1 and body ground. If there isn't battery voltage, replace the ECM (15 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse box or repair an open in the YEL/WHT wire between the main relay and the ECM fuse. If there is battery voltage, then:
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON and measure voltage between BLK/YEL Terminal 5 and body ground. If there isn't battery voltage, then replace ACG (ALT) (S) (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse box or repair an open in the BLK/YEL wire between the main relay and the ACG (ALT) (S) (15 A) fuse. If there is battery voltage, then:
4. Turn the ignition switch to START. For manual transmissions, the clutch pedal must be depressed; for automatic transmissions, the gear selector must be in Neutral or Park. Measure voltage between BLU/WHT Terminal 6 and body ground. If there isn't battery voltage, replace STARTER SIGNAL (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse box or repair an open in the BLU/WHT wire between the main relay and the STARTER SIGNAL (7.5 A) fuse. If there is battery voltage, turn the ignition switch OFF, then:
5. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Next, disconnect the "A" connector from the ECM and check for continuity between GRN/YEL Terminal 8 and Terminals A7, A8. If there isn't continuity, repair an open in the GRN/YEL wire between ECM (A7, A8) and the main relay.
29. Combination Light Switch Replacement
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove lower dashboard cover (3 screws).
3. Remove upper and lower steering column covers (3 screws).
4. Disconnect 4-P and 7-P connectors from combination light switch, remove both screws, and lift out switch.
21. Main Relay Ventilation Holes
To reduce heat generated by the PGM-FI Main Relay, drill numerous small ventilation holes in the cover. This may help extend the relay's life.
Wip
18. Serpentine Belt and Pulley Replacement
The generic information below is for all vehicles with serpentine belts.
1. Routing diagram. Before removing the serpentine belt, ensure you have a routing diagram. It's often located on the fan shroud. Sketch your own, or take pictures with your cell phone, if necessary.
2. Belt removal. Using a suitable serpentine belt tool, attach tool to spring tensioner and rotate in the appropriate direction to relieve belt tension. In order to get the necessary leverage, the tool may need to be at least 15 inches long; e.g. a flexible "T" wrench or breaker bar. Many auto parts stores loan specialized serpentine belt tools for free. With one hand, relieve belt tension; with the other hand, remove belt from auxiliary components. Afterwards, carefully release tensioner.
3. Tensioner and pulley removal. Unfasten bolt securing tensioner to engine block--on some vehicles, this step is unnecessary, depending upon whether pulley bolt is accessible or not. Next, unfasten bolt securing pulley to tensioner. Install new pulley/bearing (tighten 18 to 22 ft.-lbs.) and button up.
4. Belt replacement. Route new belt over various pulleys (water pump pulley last), rotate tensioner to allow belt to be installed, and then release tensioner. Ensure belt fits properly into pulley grooves. It must be completely engaged. On some vehicles, where space is particularly tight, use a 1/4" x 30" dowel to route belt over pulleys.
Serpentine drive belts are durable, long-lived components. Small cracks in the underside of a v-ribbed belt are acceptable. Lengthwise cracks, or missing pieces that cause the belt to make noise, are cause for replacement. Normally, I recommend belt and pulley replacement every 80,000 miles or 7 years, whichever comes first.
30. Headlight Adjustment
Adjust headlights to local requirements, by turning its adjusters. Use a small flashlight to locate the horizontal and vertical adjusting points, which are gear mechanisms. Frequently, there's a slotted hole in the frame, going to the horizontal adjusting point, and a round hole in the frame, going to the vertical adjusting point. Use a #2 Phillips head screwdriver to rotate adjusters.
42. Changing Spark Plugs
Remove old plugs when the engine is "stone" cold, to decrease the chance of stripping the aluminum head.
Use a 3/8-inch drive ratchet wrench, 6-inch quick-release extension bar (helps prevent socket from pulling off extension bar in the spark plug tube), and 5/8-inch spark plug socket. Spray the rubber insert in the spark plug socket with silicone spray, to further help prevent the socket from pulling off the extension bar in the spark plug tube. If you don't take these precautionary steps, the simple task of changing spark plugs can become frustrating. Otherwise, buy a GearWrench (#80546) magnetized extended 5/8" spark plug socket, with swivel. It eliminates the struggle of changing spark plugs. The magnetized core holds the spark plug in place and the extra long reach makes it easier to access tight spaces. It has a one-piece design, so the socket can't detach from the extension bar.
1. Remove the spark plug wire from the first plug. Carefully, remove the old spark plug. Check the gap of the new plug. I only recommend NGK spark plugs for Hondas--my experience with cross-referenced plugs has not been good. Normally, it's best to use the exact plug that came in the car. For hotter climates, use the next colder plug. Apply a thin coating of dielectric grease to the terminal nut and top porcelain insulator/corrugations of the new plug. Likewise, apply a half pea-size drop of anti-seize compound (preferably high-temperature nickel) to the lower threads, allowing rotation to spread the compound. If too much is used, plugs will "coke" in the holes. Insert spark plug in socket; attach extension bar; insert plug in hole; and tighten finger-tight, being careful not to cross-thread the plug. Some mechanics prefer to insert the plug into a 6-inch length of 3/8-inch I.D. neoprene hose, to prevent cross-threading the plug. Attach socket wrench and gently tighten the plug. Finally, use an inch-pound torque wrench to tighten the plug to the specified torque. Since anti-seize compound is a lubricant, reduce specified torque by 20% to prevent over-torquing and stripping threads.
2. Apply dielectric grease to the inside terminal of the spark plug wire, wipe wire down with silicone spray, reattach wire, and move on to the next plug.
3. Update Maintenance Log.
Change regular plugs every 24,000 miles or 24 months, whichever comes first. Change platinum plugs every 50,000 miles. Be careful not to leave platinum plugs in for more than 3 years or they may seize in the aluminum head. It's better to remove and reinstall them periodically.
43. Changing Engine Oil and Filter
Always change engine oil, when the engine is hot. This allows a faster, more complete drain. If you change the oil when the engine is cold, dirt will cling to the sides of the block and pan.
1. Remove engine oil dip stick and filler cap, to facilitate draining and to prevent PCV valve contamination.
2. Place car on jack stands.
3. Place drain pan under car and remove oil filter, using a cap wrench and 3/8-inch ratchet wrench or a strap wrench.
4. Fill oil filter with engine oil, install filter, and torque to 16 ft.-lbs, using a cap wrench. Since most engine wear takes place at start up, filling the oil filter with oil prevents a "dry start." I recommend using premium oil filters. Premium oil filters have a red silicone rubber anti-drain back valve that makes a real difference in not allowing the oil to drain from horizontally-mounted oil filters overnight. This provides much quieter valves at startup. These new premium filters (e.g. PureOne, Amsoil Ea, and Mobil 1 EP) are worth the money, in my opinion. Filtration is rightfully the new "big thing" in lubrication.
5. Place drain pan under oil pan and, using a 17 mm box-end wrench, remove oil drain plug. When draining is complete, install drain plug hand-tight and torque to 33 ft.-lbs.
6. Lower car from jack stands.
7. Add recommend amount of approved weight engine oil to oil filler hole, using a funnel. I recommend buying the best full-synthetic lubricants available. I focus on European oil standards and buy engine oil that is both ACEA A3-rated and MB 229.3 or MB 229.5-rated for my vehicles. These are the toughest engine oil specifications in the world I'm aware of.
8. Replace oil dip stick and filler cap.
9. Start car and check for leaks. Ensure car is not overfilled with oil.
10. Update Maintenance Log--record "Date, Mileage, and Work Performed." Refer to it often. I use Microsoft Word and keep a Maintenance Log for each of my vehicles in my PC--it's incredibly handy and facilitates staying on top of maintenance.
11. Recycle old oil and filter.
Do your part to keep the air we breath clean, conserve oil and gasoline, and reduce global warming by using synthetic lubricants.
45. Changing Power Steering Fluid
Only use Honda Genuine HG Power Steering Fluid, Part No. 08206-9002, or Amsoil's Synthetic Universal Power Steering Fluid (PSF). They must be Honda-specific. Using other fluids, such as ATF or other manufacturer's standard power steering fluid, will damage the system.
System Capacity: 1.1 liter (1.16 qt.)
Reservoir Capacity: 0.4 liter (0.42 qt.)
1. Raise reservoir and disconnect hose going to oil cooler.
2. Connect a suitable diameter hose to disconnected hose going to oil cooler; place other end of hose in a large, plastic jug.
3. Start engine, let it idle, and turn steering wheel lock-to-lock several times, to purge all old fluid and crud. When fluid stops running out of hose, shut engine off and discard fluid.
4. Reinstall return hose on reservoir.
5. Fill reservoir to upper level line.
6. Start engine, let it idle, and turn steering wheel lock-to-lock several times, to bleed air from system.
7. Recheck fluid level and add, if necessary.
8. Update Maintenace Log.
9. Recycle old fluid.
I recommend changing power steering fluid every 60,000 miles, due to the high expense associated with replacing pump, gearbox and valve body unit. More heat is developed in power steering units than most people realize.
46. Changing Manual Transmission Fluid
Check fluid level with engine OFF and car on level ground
1. Warm engine to normal operating temperature.
2. Remove oil filler plug, using a 17 mm box-end wrench.
3. Remove drain plug, using a 3/8-inch ratchet wrench, and drain oil into a suitable pan.
4. Reinstall drain plug (using a new aluminum crush washer) and torque to 4.0 kg-m (29 lb-ft).
5. Add 1.8 liter (1.9 qt) of manual synchromesh transmission fluid, such as Amsoil 5W-30 Synthetic Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid (MTF), using a long-neck, transmission funnel. Alternatives are to add tubing to an existing funnel or use a pump. The oil level must be up to the filler hole.
6. Reinstall oil filler plug (using a new aluminum crush washer) and torque to 4.5 kg-m (33 lb-ft).
7. Update Maintenance Log.
8. Recycle old fluid.
No longer use 10W-30 or 10W-40 engine oil as manual transmission oil. Present engine oil formulations can damage the yellow metals in the synchros. Change every 30,000 miles or 24 months, whichever comes first
19. Idler Pulley Bearing Replacement
Below is generic information for most modern-day vehicles:
Serpentine belt tension is set by the tensioner assembly, which consists of the spring tensioner and an idler pulley. Ideally, the tensioner assembly should be replaced when the serpentine belt is changed ($60.00+). In many cases, this is not the most cost-effective solution. Most people will replace the idler pulley, which costs about 30% of what the tensioner assembly costs ($18.00). For the more frugal, replacing the idler pulley bearing is an option ($1.80). Since space is normally tight on this side of the engine, access may be improved by moving the power steering reservoir aside or by removing the appropriate wheel and plastic wheel-well liner. Here's how to replace the bearing:
1. Remove idler pulley from tensioner, normally by using a 15 mm combination wrench.
2. Press out the old bearing. On many domestic cars, it's easy to drive the old bearing out of steel pulleys, using the ball end of a 32 oz. ballpein hammer on an anvil.
3. Place the new bearing in the freezer overnight. After heating the pulley with a hair dryer, the bearing should be easy to press in. Use a vise or shop press, if necessary.
4. Button things up.
The idler pulley should now be as good as new. Tighten the 15 mm mounting bolt 20 lb.-ft. on a standard NTN 6203 bearing, with a 17 mm inside diameter. This common bearing is frequently referred to as a "203" bearing.
47. CV Driveshaft: Inspection
The following generic information applies to all FWD cars.
1. Driveshaft Boot. Check boots on each driveshaft for damage, cracks, leaking grease, or loose bands. Replace boots and bands, if damage is found. Try to do this at each oil change. Regular inspection may save a CV joint from replacement, allowing it to be repacked instead. Look for grease being flung all over the caliper, tire, and wheel. Don't be afraid to apply pressure to the boots and thoroughly examine them.
2. Twists or Cracks. Ensure driveshaft is not twisted or cracked. Even though this is unusual, it does happen. Replace driveshaft, if necessary.
3. Spline Looseness. Rotate driveshaft, by hand, and ensure spline and joint are not too loose. Replace inboard joint, if damage is discovered.
CV Driveshaft: Removal
The following information is Honda specific.
1. Raise front of car and support on jack stands.
2. Remove lug nuts and front wheels.
3. Drain transaxle fluid. Often, this is unnecessary.
4. Raise locking tab on spindle nut and remove nut. With an air impact wrench, just back it right off.
5. Remove damper fork nut, bolt, and damper pinch bolt. Replace damper pinch bolts, if you can easily thread a non-self-locking nut past their nylon locking inserts.
6. Remove damper fork.
7. Remove cotter pin from lower arm ball-joint castle nut and remove nut.
8. Install 12 mm hex nut on ball-joint. Ensure hex nut is flush with ball-joint's pin end; otherwise, the threaded section of ball-joint pin might be damaged by ball-joint remover.
9. Remove ball-joint, using a ball-joint remover, from lower arm. Ensure ball-joint boot is not damaged. Apply Kroil or PB Blaster, if necessary, to loosen ball-joint.
10. Pull knuckle outward and remove driveshafts's outboard joint from front wheel hub, by using a plastic mallot.
11. Pry driveshaft assembly, using a pry bar or large screwdriver, from transaxle. This will force the set ring, at the driveshaft's end, past the groove.
12. Pull inboard joint and remove driveshaft from transaxle. Be careful not to pull on the driveshaft, as the inboard joint may come apart. To avoid damaging the differential oil seal, use care prying the assembly out. Be sure to pull it straight.
If the CV joint clicks, it's pretty much a waste of time trying to repair the axle--instead, replace it. This is particularly true, since the price of axles has dropped so much.
CV Driveshaft: Disassembly
The following information is Honda specific. Honda does not recommend disassembling the outboard joint.
1. Clamp driveshaft in a vise with soft jaws.
2. Remove set ring from inboard joint.
3. Remove boot band, by prying up locking tabs with a screwdriver and raise end of band. If the boot band is the welded type, cut it off. Be careful not to damage the boot.
4. Mark each roller and inboard joint, to identify locations of rollers and grooves in the inboard joint.
5. Remove the inboard joint from the vise and place it on a shop towel on top of the workbench. Be careful not to drop the rollers, when separating them from the inboard joint. Examine splines for wear or other damage, check inside bore for wear, and look for any cracks.
6. Mark rollers and spider, to identify locations of rollers on spider.
7. Remove rollers and circlip (KD Tool 2534).
8. Mark spider and driveshaft, to identify position of spider on shaft.
9. Remove spider with a bearing puller.
10. Remove stopper ring.
11. Wrap driveshaft splines with vinyl tape, to prevent damage to boots and dynamic damper.
12. Remove boot band and inboard boot.
13. Remove dynamic damper band and dynamic damper.
14. Remove outboard boot bands, boot, and vinyl tape.
15. Inspect outboard joint for cracking, splitting, wear, and faulty movement. If any roughness or excess play is felt, replace the outboard joint.
16. Check outboard ring for damage.
If the boots are split, and need to be replaced, use a pair of diagonal cutters to cut the bands off; then, cut the boots off with a utility knife.
CV Driveshaft: Repacking and Reassembly
The following information is Honda specific.
1. Wrap splines with vinyl tape, to prevent damage to boots and dynamic damper.
2. Install outboard boot, dynamic damper, and inboard boot to driveshaft. Remove vinyl tape.
3. Install stopper ring into driveshaft groove. Rotate stopper ring in its groove, to ensure it's fully seated.
4. Install spider on driveshaft, by aligning marks on spider and end of driveshaft.
5. Fit circlip into driveshaft groove. Rotate circlip in its groove, to ensure it's fully seated.
6. Pack outboard joint with joint grease included in the new driveshaft set (90 to 100 gm or 3.2 to 3.5 oz.). Amounts may vary with vehicle. Use Honda CV Joint Grease Outboard (Black), Honda Part No. 08798-9007.
7. Fit rollers to spider, with high shoulders facing outward. Reinstall rollers in their original positions on spider, by aligning the marks. Hold driveshaft pointed up, to prevent spider and rollers from falling off.
8. Pack inboard joint and inboard boot with joint grease included in new driveshaft set (120 to 130 gm or 4.2 to 4.6 oz.). Amounts may vary with vehicle. Use Honda CV Joint Grease Inboard (Yellow), Honda Part No. 08798-9003.
9. Fit inboard joint onto driveshaft. Reinstall inboard joint onto driveshaft, by aligning marks on inboard joint and rollers. Hold driveshaft assembly pointed up, to prevent inboard joint from falling off.
10. Adjust length of driveshafts to specs, then adjust boots to halfway between full compression and full extension. The ends of boots seat in groove of driveshaft and joint.
11. Install new boot bands on boots and bend both sets of locking tabs.
12. Lightly tap on doubled-over tab portions, to reduce height.
13. Position dynamic damper as shown below. Install new dynamic damper band and bend down both sets of locking tabs. Lightly tap on doubled-over tab portions, to reduce height.
Left: 75 +/- 2 mm (3.0 +/- .1 in.)
Right: 55 +/- 2 mm (2.2 +/- .1 in.)
Note: These representative figures may vary, depending on the car. Therefore, check the specs for your vehicle.
14. Install new set ring onto driveshaft or intermediate shaft groove.
CV Driveshaft: Installation
The following information is Honda specific.
1. Install outboard joint in knuckle; then, loosely install a new spindle nut.
2. Insert inboard end of driveshaft into differential, until set ring locks in groove. Ensure inboard joint bottoms into differential and that set ring locks into groove of side gear.
3. Install damper fork over driveshaft and onto lower arm. Install damper in damper fork, so aligning tab is aligned with the slot in damper fork.
4. Loosely install damper pinch bolt, and a new damper fork nut with the bolt. The bolts and nut should be tightened with vehicle's weight on the damper. See Step 8, below.
5. Install knuckle on lower arm. Tighten castle nut (50 to 60 N-m or 36 to 43 lb-ft) and install a new cotter pin. Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification; then, tighten it only far enough to align slot with pin hole. Do not align nut by loosening.
6. Tighten the new spindle nut.
7. Install front wheels (110 N-m or 80 lb-ft).
8. Tighten damper pinch bolt and new damper fork nut. Tighten damper pinch bolt to 44 N-m or 32 lb-ft. Tighten damper fork nut to 65 N-m or 47 lb-ft.
9. Refill transaxle, if necessary, with recommended fluid.
10. Check front wheel alighment and adjust, if necessary.
52. PCV Valve Replacement
Perform every 60,000 miles or 4 years, whichever comes first.
1. Disconnect PCV Valve hose from throttle body, using a pair of pliers to remove spring clamp.
2. Remove PCV Valve and hose from intake manifold.
3. Disconnect PCV Valve from hose, using a pair of pliers to remove the other spring clamp. Using a spray can of brake cleaner, with the "straw" attached, spray inside of hose. This will remove any residual sludge, dirt, and sand. Take a pipe cleaner, dipped in fuel injector cleaner, and clean the port on the throttle body.
4. Install cleaned hose to a new PCV Valve and button everything up.
This will help your engine idle and perform better, last longer, and reduce emissions. Synthetic oils, with their lower NOACK Volatility (evaporation due to heat) characteristics, greatly reduce PCV Valve and hose contamination.
6. Preventing Coil-On-Plug (COP) Problems
Many repair shops are reporting a large number of coil-on-plug (COP) failures with engines. The majority of problems are related to 1) customers washing their engines, or 2) body repair shops hosing off engines after repairing hood hail damage. Water seeps into the spark plug hole, where engine heat converts it to steam, and damages the coil.
Here are some rules to prevent the problem:
1. Never wash the engine, unless you cover the coils.
2. Always replace spark plug boots, when you change plugs.
3. Always replace the spark plug, when you replace a coil.
4. Always apply silicone dielectric grease to the rubber seal on the coil, where it connects to the engine; e.g. Motorcraft Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (XG-3-A).
24. Fuel Injector Replacement
1. Depressurize fuel system. On many Hondas, it's as simple as removing the gas cap. Other cars require removing the connector to the inertia switch in the trunk, or pulling the under-hood fuse to the fuel pump, starting the car, and waiting for the engine to stumble.
2. Disconnect negative battery cable.
3. Remove connectors from injectors.
4. Disconnect vacuum hose and fuel return hose from fuel pressure regulator. Place a rag over hoses, before disconnecting.
5. Disconnect fuel hose from fuel rail.
6. Loosen retainer nuts on fuel rail and harness holder.
7. Disconnect fuel rail.
8. Remove injectors from intake manifold.
9. Slide new cushion rings onto fuel injectors.
10. Coat new O-rings with clean engine oil and place on injectors.
11. Insert fuel injectors into fuel rail first.
12. Coat new seal rings with clean engine oil and press into intake manifold.
13. Install fuel injectors and fuel rail assembly into manifold. NOTE: To prevent damaging O-rings, install fuel injectors in fuel rail first, then install them in the intake manifold.
14. Align center line on connector with mark on fuel rail, if applicable.
15. Install and tighten retainer nuts.
16. Connect fuel hose to fuel rail with new washers.
17. Connect vacuum hose and fuel return hose to fuel pressure regulator.
18. Install connectors on injectors.
19. Turn ignition switch to ON, but do not operate the starter. After fuel pump runs for approximately two seconds, the fuel pressure in the fuel line rises. Repeat this two to three times, then check for fuel leaks.
21. Reading a Tire's Manufacturing Date
Studies show that tires more than 6 years old can be very dangerous. Ensure that your "new" tires were recently manufactured, not sitting in the warehouse for years. Here's how to read the code on tires; for example, (3307) means the tire was manufactured in the 33rd week of 2007. The tire's manufacturing date is imbeded in the last code on the tire.
13. Eliminating Air Conditioning System Odors
Air conditioner odors can be unpleasant and unhealthy. Here's an inexpensive approach to get rid of the problem. Mix a solution of liquid dish soap and bleach in a spray bottle. Attach a suitable hose and pump the solution in the evaporator coil drain tube, which is located on the passenger's side of the firewall. Be sure to insert the hose all the way in. Afterwards, flush everything out with clean water.
Work in Progress.
14. Importance of Changing Automatic Transmission Filter
The link below highlights the importance of dropping and cleaning the transmission pan, changing the transmission filter (each time), and refilling with automatic transmission fluid every 30,000 miles:
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/filter_man_council01.pdf
8. Antifreeze: Automaker Approved Chemistry
Using the wrong antifreeze in your vehicle can be a costly mistake. No "one size fits all" antifreeze is approved for use in all vehicles. Play it safe and consult your Owner's Manual. The link below may help:
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/Zerex_CoolantChart.pdf
Use a 50/50 mixture of approved antifreeze and distilled water, in order to minimize deposit buildup (cheaper and better). Otherwise, buy prediluted ready-to-use coolant, which is a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and demineralized water (more expensive, but convenient).
5. How-to Clean the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
Cleaning the MAF Sensor can increase gas mileage, horsepower, and general performance. This sensor measures air velocity, which the computer uses to determine proper air/fuel mixture. When the sensor gets covered with oil, dust, pollen, and air filter fibers, it results in a "rich" running engine, loss of power and higher emissions. Many recommend cleaning this sensor every time the air filter is changed.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove screws (usually two Security Torx T-20) securing MAF Sensor to air intake and carefully remove sensor.
3. Place sensor on a clean rag and spray hot-wires or hot plate with CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner 10 to 15 times, being careful not to touch the hot-wires. Be sure to spray all sides of the sensor and clean all wires and connectors. Other chemicals, such as brake cleaner and carburetor cleaner, are considered too aggressive, even though some people use them.
4. Allow sensor to thoroughly dry for 45 minutes.
5. Reinstall sensor in air intake and button everything up.
6. How-to Change the Fuel Filter on Most Ford Cars and Trucks
The inline fuel filter is usually located under the car, just in front of the right rear wheel. On many Ford pickup trucks, it's located in front of the left rear wheel. Be sure to wear safety goggles and keep a fire extinguisher handy. Change fuel filter every 30,000 miles.
1. Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands.
2. Depressurize the fuel system. The usual recommendation is to disconnect the inertia switch connector, usually located in the right-rear trunk trim panel, start the car, and allow the engine to stumble. Removing the connector cuts power to the fuel pump. I prefer the following TRICK: Pull the under hood fuel pump fuse (much easier). On my 2000 Ford Taurus, it's Fuse No. 16 (20A). Check your Owner's Manual. On many Ford pickup trucks, remove the fuel pump relay from the under hood fuse/relay box.
3. Clean fittings on each end of filter.
4. Disconnect hairpin clips from the filter, by carefully prying upward with a small screwdriver. Separate fuel line from connector nipples on both ends of the filter, using a large screwdriver. On pickup trucks, use a 5/16" angled fuel line disconnect tool (Lisle 39410). If the inside release mechanism (spring) is rusted, spray with WD-40, PB Blaster, or Kroil.
5. Remove filter from bracket and install new filter, noting the flow direction arrow. TRICK: Use plastic caps, that come with some filters, to prevent spilling gasoline from old filter. Retighten clamp.
6. Reattach fuel lines, making sure they are fully seated, and install new hairpin clips.
7. Reconnect inertia switch connector or replace fuel pump fuse/relay. It's good technique to clean oxidation from fuse or relay contacts (#240 abrasive cloth or steel wool) and lightly coat with dielectric grease.
8. Start engine and check for fuel leaks.
9. Update maintenance log.
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