Ok... I had another thread which I started because all of a sudden, when it got cold in NYC, my Stick felt like there was pressure when I try to shift to 2nd, 3rd, 4th gears. I would have to wiggle it in neutral and shift it slowly in order for it to engage into gear.

Txgreasemonkey helped me solve the problem by changing the tranny fluid + bleeding the slave cylinder, which solved the problem, but now its back again.

Nowww. Its been about 1 week since I changed both the tranny fluid + bled the slave cylinder.

The pressure is back... Its not even as cold as last week. Only now, when I put my stick into gear and step on the gas, I hear a " CLICK ".

If I leave gear in neutral and step on gas, there's NO CLICK.

So now, I have 2 problems. The hard shifting ( feels like pressure ) is back and also I hear a click in every gear whenever I step on gas!.

Hmmm... I don't think I need my whole clutch changed because I read that if I can move the car from a STOP using 4th gear then the clutch still is good. I CAN... So I think I have more clutch left.

What else could be the problem? Should I just change the slave cylinder?? Its not leaking...

Please help... THANKS

I really hope you guys could help me solve this problem, because I am NOT rich and the damn mechanic quoted me about $460 to change the clutch!! I am not going to pay for that! Plus, I have more clutch left! I know its something else!

Please help... =( Where are you TxGreaseMonkey!

I just ordered a Clutch Slave Cylinder... I hope that's the problem...

It's hard to say what's wrong from afar. Before removing the clutch slave cylinder, I would remove the boot, as discussed before, and observe the slave cylinder in action. It may be the slave cylinder or something else (e.g. worn synchros).

Ok... Ill remove the rubber thing and ask someone to press clutch and see the action.

If its worn syncros, would I have to replace the whole clutch? Are there ways to check for worn syncros?

You would have to have the transmission rebuilt. The problem usually develops from not changing the transmission fluid frequently enough--every two years or 24,000 miles.

Tx, just as quick update. The pressure was due to lack of lubrication... LOL... A mech lubed up something under the hood and the pressure is gone!

Its so smooth now! I was so happy driving all the way home... PLUS the AMSOIL that I added, my gearbox is now fixed!

THANKS SO MUCH!

It was likely the clutch fork joint we talked about on the slave cylinder (remember the urea grease). Glad to hear it's now perfect. Remove the cover to the slave cylinder and you can probably see what he lubricated. He likely did not use the proper grease, which could present a problem down the road.

He removed the front part of the air intake... He lubed something under that... It was like a round thing. It was by the transmission. He was asking me to move the clutch in and out of 3rd gear + 4th gear while lubing the part. I think its starts with a " B "...

=)

Now, I'm really curious. Call him and find out what he lubed.

It's a part that you can move the clutch from UNDER THE HOOD. He was moving my clutch from the hood. Do you know that part?

Was it part of the shift linkage? I think it must have been the arm (clutch fork) that goes from the slave cylinder to the clutch. The contact point is what the super high temperature urea grease is supposed to lubricate.

Could the "B" stand for boot?

Yes! If the shift linkage could move the clutch from under the hood, then YES. He used WD40.

WD-40 is definitely not the proper lubricant. Try and carefully remove the clutch fork's rubber BOOT and lubricate it properly, after wiping any old grease and dirt away. WD-40 could easily cause the slave cylinder's seals to swell and lead to catastrophic slave cylinder failure.

He sprayed WD40 and put some purple grease on the shift linkage area... He put the purple grease on a round object... It wasn't anywhere near the clutch slave cylinder... Seems like what he did worked because it shift PERFECT now. I LOVE the AMSOIL! =)

I just went out and did it on my Civic. Easy job.

Yes, the grease, not WD-40 sounds better. There is a ball on the end of the piston that goes to the slave cylinder. He may have used WD-40 to first clean the ball and then applied the purple grease, after pulling the BOOT aside.

I'm just glad it was not a problem with the synchros--that would have cost some serious money to fix.

Here are some maintenance tips to help you save a lot of money and enjoy your Civic to the max:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219991

Honda calls for Super High Temp Urea Grease, P/N 08798-9002. Here's what I'm talking about:

http://www.inlinefour.com/hosuhiteurgr.html

As Always Tx, THANKSSSSSSSSSSS~!

^_____^;;

Just inside the clutch housing, there's also a release fork bolt that should be lubricated with Super High Temperature Urea Grease. The release fork pivots on this bolt.

I'm laying all of this out for you, so you will have a clearer picture of the clutch system. This should help you troubleshoot any future problems.

Im seeing the picture! LOL! Thanks Again Tx! :D

Here's my guide on how you can do the job yourself in 20 minutes:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post232189

Skip Step 1, obviously, in your case. Also, skip the part on assembly lube.

I'm worried that the grease the guy used will bleed onto the piston, causing the seals to swell, and the clutch pedal will unexpectedly go to the floor someday. It happened to me on a 1994 Accord EX. Ever since, I've really taken care of hydraulic clutches.

Hey Tx... Is Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Grease OK?

Excellent grease (with Moly) for chassis, disc brake wheel bearings, CV joints, and universal joints. However, it's not suitable for lubricating the ball-end on your slave cylinder.

As an aside, I talked to the technical experts at Amsoil about possible substitutes for lubricating the ball-end and release forks on Hondas. They said there are no substitutes, including any of their products, for applications requiring urea or clay based grease. Urea greases, they said, are very expensive high temperature greases used for very specific applications, where there are no substitutes. That's what I like about Amsoil--always very professional, great products, and tell it like it is.

Thanks... I guess ill have to order the honda urea from online.

=)

Call College Hills Honda, Wooster, Ohio 888/244-6632. They sell it for $11.69 + $2.50 Shipping. The local Honda dealers want around $15. These guys have good prices on Honda Genuine parts. They are a full-service Honda dealer, with internet and phone sales.

Follow the instructions I gave you the other day. It's a super simple job that's worth doing right. Then you should be set for a long time. Be sure to wipe off all of the old grease and dirt on the ball-end and the dimple in the release fork. Trust me, there's nothing worse than having clutch failure in rush-hour traffic.

I bought it off Ebay for a good price actually. 14$$ shipped! =)

Honda Super High Temp Urea Grease. =)

Ill let you know how it turns out Tx... In about a few days...

It was raining today and the notchyness in the clutch isn't as bad but is still there...

I guess the WD40 he sprayed under the hood ( I'm guessing on the clutch linkage ) ( I couldn't tell you the part he sprayed but when someone sits inside the car and moves the stick, and your under the hood looking, the part moves. This is the part he sprayed... ) is probably wearing off. Maybe I should use a brush and apply some grease there?

In addition to changing the slave cylinder? This is the reason why I'm doing all this.. LOL. I just want to get rid of the nochyness and pressure in the gear box once and for all.

I probably should have just changed the slave cylinder like you told me to FROM THE GET GO!

But ill let you know how it turns out.

THanks TXGREASEMONKEY! :p

Remember I'm a super car newbie... LOL... Sorry for not knowing the parts names...

I bought a new clutch slave cylinder. It came with the cylinder itself + a long metal thing with a rounded tip on 1 end + a little rubber plug ( I'm guessing that is to plug the line when I detach so it won't leak brake fluid? )

You don't need a new slave cylinder at all. You may get yourself in trouble opening the hydraulic system. I don't advise it. I believe the problem is dirt and wear on the release fork, which is binding the ball-end.

The long metal piece is the ball-end that expands into the release fork dimple, when you depress the clutch pedal. I'm not sure the guy could even grease the ball-end without following a procedure like I describe. I think he lubed the wrong side of the dimple on the release fork, which does nothing.

Even as a newbie, you can do this job in 20 minutes. Since you can change the MTF and bleed the clutch, you can easily do this. It's another story, however, to bleed the clutch system after replacing the slave cylinder. I've seen experience mechanics have lots of trouble preventing the clutch pedal from going all the way to the floor and staying there. They allowed just a little bit of air into the system and they were beside themselves.

WHAT! LoL! I thought I had to change the slave cylinder...

I bought a 30$ PBR slave cylinder for my 2001 civic.. HAHAHA... Im a dumbass. Now what should I do? SHould I change it? It doesn't seem that hard after reading it on Google.

Hmmm.. We are a little confused... Let me explain better.

The guy did not lubricate anywhere near the slave cylinder. He sprayed WD40 on a different part. Its kind of hard to explain. This has nothing to do with the clutch pedal.

If someone sits inside the car, and moves the gearbox switching gears from 1, 2, 3, 4 etc.. there is a part under the hood that moves. Its located behind and under the engine. He had to remove a part of the air intake to get to it. Its to the left of the AIR FILTER, under it. That's what he sprayed. The part moves whenever you engage a gear. I don't know what its called.


I was thinking maybe grease would be a better lube than WD40. Should I use a brush and some SYNPOWER Valvoline grease and apply it there?

Uhh OOOO...

Your slave cylinder is perfectly good. Get your girl friend to depress the clutch pedal and you will see the ball-end press on the release fork, after you unseat the boot. A new slave cylinder will not do anything else. Plus, the ball-end is very tough steel. The wear does not happen there but on the release fork. Once you clean the dimple and ball-end of old dirt and grease, grease the dimple and ball-end, you will see there's no need to replace the slave cylinder.

Are you talking about the shift linkage, going from the gear shift to the clutch?

Ok. Your actually completely right. I was thinking to myself, my slave cylinder wasn't leaking, why am I replacing it! I guess I was a little confused...

I will just take it out and remove the old grease and put on new Honda Urea Grease when I get it...

Ill return the slave cylinder...

Ok then! It was the shift linkage... For example if I put the gear to 3rd gear, I can observe the shift linkage move from under the hood right? It should move to a different position... If yes, then that is the part he Sprayed WD40 on.

Should I lube it with some synthetic grease with a brush instead?

Just do what I describe in the link below, except skip Step 1, since you are not replacing the slave cylinder:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post232189

kk, ill update you soon! =)

This will be so simple you won't believe it.