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-   -   What would make a 98 pontiac grand am with a 2.4 motor not start (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=431385)

  • Jan 4, 2010, 12:40 PM
    tami slater
    What would make a 98 pontiac grand am with a 2.4 motor not start
    I have a pontiac grand am with a 2.4 motor I shut the car off and it won't start it won't even crank over will not do anything I have headlights radio and dash lights it just won't start I changed the silonoid and still nothing please help.
  • Jan 4, 2010, 12:44 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    It's time to replace the battery. The starter motor draws much more current than a few lights.
  • Jan 4, 2010, 03:28 PM
    tami slater
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    It's time to replace the battery. The starter motor draws much more current than a few lights.




    My husband put his battery in my car and it still won't start we had the starter checked and it id good any more suggestions would be appreciated
  • Jan 4, 2010, 03:35 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    . Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

    . Perform tests in the link below:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235560
  • Jan 4, 2010, 05:51 PM
    tami slater

    He checked all that could it be the ignition switch and if so how do change it the car has air bags on the drivers side and passenger side
  • Jan 4, 2010, 06:23 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Sure it could be ignition switch--your tests should have revealed that or not.
  • Jan 4, 2010, 07:14 PM
    tami slater
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Sure it could be ignition switch--your tests should have revealed that or not.




    We are not getting any power from the ignition switch to the starter but all the dash lights work when you turn the key there is nothing when we go out side they can jump the starter the silenoid kicks in but not the starter the starter and silenoid are good they were tested
  • Jan 4, 2010, 07:30 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Have you cleaned all connections to the starter motor and solenoid? If you did and you connected a jumper lead (12 AWG), or preferably a remote starter switch, between the positive battery terminal and the exposed “S” terminal on the solenoid, the starter motor should crank. If not, I would replace the starter motor. The ignition switch was by-passed and should not be a factor. Use your husband's known good battery in these tests.
  • Jan 4, 2010, 08:42 PM
    tami slater

    The starter motor does crank and when they put it back on the car it doesn't work please help me I am at my wits end
  • Jan 5, 2010, 07:10 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Going back to basics, ensure battery cable and starter motor connections have been cleaned. Also, ensure all under hood and under dash fuses have been tested with a test light or multimeter. Visual examination is not good enough, since it does not check for "power through the fuse." Be thorough, since it will save a lot of time and money. Finally, examine the ignition switch wire, going to the solenoid, for a fusible link. It will look like a large lump in the wire. If it blew, it should be apparent.

    My gut is that there may be a problem with the starter motor. It may crank sometimes, as it did when it was tested, but not every time. If the starter motor connections are clean, and you by-passed the ignition switch by jumping the starter motor, it should crank every time--no if, ands, or buts.
  • Jan 5, 2010, 07:46 AM
    tami slater

    Thank you will look at that
  • Jan 5, 2010, 08:19 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Once you solve this problem, start using 5W-30 full-synthetic engine oil (e.g. Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum). During cold weather, particularly, synthetics are much easier on starter motors and batteries. There are a host of other benefits, as well.
  • Jan 9, 2010, 02:17 PM
    tami slater

    Replaced the starter and the car still will not start have a new battery as well if you cross the starter it should crank the motor but it don't please help
  • Jan 9, 2010, 02:31 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Perform tests in the link below:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235560

    If the starter motor does not crank, as in Step 6, the problem is with the ignition switch, neutral start switch, or wiring.
  • Jan 9, 2010, 02:36 PM
    tami slater

    We were told if we jumped the starter from the outside it should crank the motor when we did that the starter still didn't turn the motor my question is this should the motor still crank
  • Jan 9, 2010, 03:13 PM
    tami slater
    Where is the neutral start switch located
  • Jan 9, 2010, 03:37 PM
    tami slater

    Do you have to take off the steering wheel to replace the ignition switch
  • Jan 9, 2010, 03:49 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    No need to remove the steering wheel. It's much easier than that. You are replacing the switch, not the lock. Disconnect the negative battery cable, steering column cover, two screws attaching the ignition switch to the left side of the steering column, and remove switch. Install new ignition switch, tighten both screws, replace negative battery cable, and start car. Here's what the switch looks like and costs at AutoZone (LS643, $39.99):

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...&parentId=62-0

    Enlarge the images.

    I'm not sure where the neutral start switch is on your car. If you jump the new starter motor with your new battery, the starter motor has to crank.
  • Jan 9, 2010, 07:09 PM
    tami slater

    The starter won't kick in for the motor to turn over even though I replaced the starter husband said when he bolts the starter to the motor and when he jumps the starter it sounds like bendix isn't kicking in but when the starter is off the motor and jumps it that way the bendix kicks in then don't know why it won't kick in when bolted to the motor
  • Jan 9, 2010, 07:22 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    The problem may be with the over-running starter motor clutch. It sounds like you bought a rebuilt that is not any good. I'd exchange it for another.

    Also, be sure to clean away all corrosion where the starter motor grounds; clean main grounding straps and apply dielectric grease. Clean all starter motor connections and apply dielectric grease.
  • Jan 11, 2010, 05:56 AM
    tami slater

    OK it will crank from the outside is it the ignition switch is there a way to test the ignition switch to see if it is bad before I buy one
  • Jan 11, 2010, 06:22 AM
    CaptainRich
    1 Attachment(s)

    Used a multi-meter to verify power and make certain you have a solid ground.
    Corrosion in the battery cable could cause such a significant voltage drop that there isn't enough left at the starter.
    Study this schematic and follow the voltage on the ignition switch side. That is what controls how and when the starter engages.

    Attachment 28205
  • Jan 11, 2010, 08:31 AM
    tami slater
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by CaptainRich View Post
    Used a multi-meter to verify power and make certain you have a solid ground.
    Corrosion in the battery cable could cause such a significant voltage drop that there isn't enough left at the starter.
    Study this schematic and follow the voltage on the ignition switch side. That is what controls how and when the starter engages.

    Attachment 28205

    Can you test the ignition switch and if so how do you do it
  • Jan 11, 2010, 07:53 PM
    tami slater
    Can you test the ignition switch on a 98 pontiac grand am with a 2.4 motor
    Can you test an ignition switch on a 98 pontiac grand am with a 2.4 motor and if so how do you test it
  • Jan 11, 2010, 08:06 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Remove the switch, checking it over for wear, pitting, or melting.
  • Jan 11, 2010, 08:19 PM
    tami slater
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Remove the switch, checking it over for wear, pitting, or melting.





    If we don't see anything upon our visual inspection what can we do next I really appreciate your help and thank you very much
  • Jan 11, 2010, 09:14 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    If everything else has been ruled out, take your chances and buy a new ignition switch. Buy it from someone who will allow it to be returned, if it doesn't solve the problem.
  • Jan 12, 2010, 10:18 AM
    tami slater
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Remove the switch, checking it over for wear, pitting, or melting.





    What is pitting?
  • Jan 12, 2010, 10:37 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Like craters on the moon.
  • Jan 12, 2010, 10:52 AM
    tami slater
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Like craters on the moon.



    OK thank you I will let you know how it goes
  • Jan 12, 2010, 11:33 AM
    CaptainRich

    You need to start with a fully charged battery.
    Then, with the key in the START position, you should be able to find battery voltage (at least 12 volts but it should be higher) on the yellow wire coming out of the ignition switch. If you don't have at least 10 volts on that wire, replace the ignition switch and retest.
    An alternate test point for this is actually on the purple wire right where it connects to the starter. This locaton is far easier identify but you still have to rule out the safety switch (CPP on manual trans and TR on automatics).
  • Jan 14, 2010, 05:40 PM
    tami slater
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by tami slater View Post
    ok thank you i will let you know how it goes





    We replaced the ignition switch and the car will crank from the inside but will not start the motor jumps when you try and start it what could be the problem now could it be the ignition module
  • Jan 14, 2010, 06:05 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Perform the tests in the link below:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post2123675

    The Ignition Control Module and coil are what I would focus on, if you now have a straight-forward crank but won't start situation. This assumes the engine compression and timing belt are fine.
  • Jan 14, 2010, 07:28 PM
    tami slater
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Perform the tests in the link below:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post2123675

    The Ignition Control Module and coil would be what I would focus on, if you now have a straight-forward crank but won't start situation. This assumes the engine compression and timing belt are fine.



    Where is the ignition coil located and thanks to you I I am learning a lot about my car
  • Jan 14, 2010, 07:31 PM
    tami slater
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by tami slater View Post
    where is the ignition coil located and thanks to you i i am learning a lot about my car


    The car has set for like 3 or 4 weeks just though you would like to know that
  • Jan 14, 2010, 07:35 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Here's what your coil looks like:

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...earchText=coil

    Here's what your Ignition Control Module looks like:

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...control+module
  • Jan 14, 2010, 07:42 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Since your car sat so long:

    Try turning the ignition switch to ON, until you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank stop running. Then, turn the ignition switch OFF. Repeat this several times, in order to fully pressurize the fuel rail. On the final time, turn the ignition switch to START and see if the engine starts.

    . Can you hear the fuel pump run?

    . Have you tested for spark?
  • Jan 15, 2010, 07:23 AM
    tami slater
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Since your car sat so long:

    Try turning the ignition switch to ON, until you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank stop running. Then, turn the ignition switch OFF. Repeat this several times, in order to fully pressurize the fuel rail. On the final time, turn the ignition switch to START and see if the engine starts.

    . Can you hear the fuel pump run?

    . Have you tested for spark?




    Yes I can hear the fuel pump run but how do check for spark do I have to replace both coils if there is no spark
  • Jan 15, 2010, 07:37 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Remove a spark plug wire and attach it to a properly gapped spark plug, touch the plug to a convenient ground, and observe the spark, while someone cranks the engine. If there's no (or weak) spark, replace the ICM and coil.
  • Jan 15, 2010, 07:53 AM
    tami slater
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Remove a spark plug wire and attach it to a properly gapped spark plug, touch the plug to a convenient ground, and observe the spark, while someone cranks the engine. If there's no (or weak) spark, replace the ICM and coil.




    How many ignition coils are there on the car? If there is more than one will I have to replace them all

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