I have a pontiac grand am with a 2.4 motor I shut the car off and it won't start it won't even crank over will not do anything I have headlights radio and dash lights it just won't start I changed the silonoid and still nothing please help.
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I have a pontiac grand am with a 2.4 motor I shut the car off and it won't start it won't even crank over will not do anything I have headlights radio and dash lights it just won't start I changed the silonoid and still nothing please help.
It's time to replace the battery. The starter motor draws much more current than a few lights.
. Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145
. Perform tests in the link below:
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235560
He checked all that could it be the ignition switch and if so how do change it the car has air bags on the drivers side and passenger side
Sure it could be ignition switch--your tests should have revealed that or not.
We are not getting any power from the ignition switch to the starter but all the dash lights work when you turn the key there is nothing when we go out side they can jump the starter the silenoid kicks in but not the starter the starter and silenoid are good they were tested
Have you cleaned all connections to the starter motor and solenoid? If you did and you connected a jumper lead (12 AWG), or preferably a remote starter switch, between the positive battery terminal and the exposed “S” terminal on the solenoid, the starter motor should crank. If not, I would replace the starter motor. The ignition switch was by-passed and should not be a factor. Use your husband's known good battery in these tests.
The starter motor does crank and when they put it back on the car it doesn't work please help me I am at my wits end
Going back to basics, ensure battery cable and starter motor connections have been cleaned. Also, ensure all under hood and under dash fuses have been tested with a test light or multimeter. Visual examination is not good enough, since it does not check for "power through the fuse." Be thorough, since it will save a lot of time and money. Finally, examine the ignition switch wire, going to the solenoid, for a fusible link. It will look like a large lump in the wire. If it blew, it should be apparent.
My gut is that there may be a problem with the starter motor. It may crank sometimes, as it did when it was tested, but not every time. If the starter motor connections are clean, and you by-passed the ignition switch by jumping the starter motor, it should crank every time--no if, ands, or buts.
Thank you will look at that
Once you solve this problem, start using 5W-30 full-synthetic engine oil (e.g. Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum). During cold weather, particularly, synthetics are much easier on starter motors and batteries. There are a host of other benefits, as well.
Replaced the starter and the car still will not start have a new battery as well if you cross the starter it should crank the motor but it don't please help
Perform tests in the link below:
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235560
If the starter motor does not crank, as in Step 6, the problem is with the ignition switch, neutral start switch, or wiring.
We were told if we jumped the starter from the outside it should crank the motor when we did that the starter still didn't turn the motor my question is this should the motor still crank
Where is the neutral start switch located
Do you have to take off the steering wheel to replace the ignition switch
No need to remove the steering wheel. It's much easier than that. You are replacing the switch, not the lock. Disconnect the negative battery cable, steering column cover, two screws attaching the ignition switch to the left side of the steering column, and remove switch. Install new ignition switch, tighten both screws, replace negative battery cable, and start car. Here's what the switch looks like and costs at AutoZone (LS643, $39.99):
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...&parentId=62-0
Enlarge the images.
I'm not sure where the neutral start switch is on your car. If you jump the new starter motor with your new battery, the starter motor has to crank.
The starter won't kick in for the motor to turn over even though I replaced the starter husband said when he bolts the starter to the motor and when he jumps the starter it sounds like bendix isn't kicking in but when the starter is off the motor and jumps it that way the bendix kicks in then don't know why it won't kick in when bolted to the motor
The problem may be with the over-running starter motor clutch. It sounds like you bought a rebuilt that is not any good. I'd exchange it for another.
Also, be sure to clean away all corrosion where the starter motor grounds; clean main grounding straps and apply dielectric grease. Clean all starter motor connections and apply dielectric grease.
OK it will crank from the outside is it the ignition switch is there a way to test the ignition switch to see if it is bad before I buy one
Used a multi-meter to verify power and make certain you have a solid ground.
Corrosion in the battery cable could cause such a significant voltage drop that there isn't enough left at the starter.
Study this schematic and follow the voltage on the ignition switch side. That is what controls how and when the starter engages.
Attachment 28205
Can you test an ignition switch on a 98 pontiac grand am with a 2.4 motor and if so how do you test it
Remove the switch, checking it over for wear, pitting, or melting.
If everything else has been ruled out, take your chances and buy a new ignition switch. Buy it from someone who will allow it to be returned, if it doesn't solve the problem.
Like craters on the moon.
You need to start with a fully charged battery.
Then, with the key in the START position, you should be able to find battery voltage (at least 12 volts but it should be higher) on the yellow wire coming out of the ignition switch. If you don't have at least 10 volts on that wire, replace the ignition switch and retest.
An alternate test point for this is actually on the purple wire right where it connects to the starter. This locaton is far easier identify but you still have to rule out the safety switch (CPP on manual trans and TR on automatics).
Perform the tests in the link below:
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post2123675
The Ignition Control Module and coil are what I would focus on, if you now have a straight-forward crank but won't start situation. This assumes the engine compression and timing belt are fine.
Here's what your coil looks like:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...earchText=coil
Here's what your Ignition Control Module looks like:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...control+module
Since your car sat so long:
Try turning the ignition switch to ON, until you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank stop running. Then, turn the ignition switch OFF. Repeat this several times, in order to fully pressurize the fuel rail. On the final time, turn the ignition switch to START and see if the engine starts.
. Can you hear the fuel pump run?
. Have you tested for spark?
Remove a spark plug wire and attach it to a properly gapped spark plug, touch the plug to a convenient ground, and observe the spark, while someone cranks the engine. If there's no (or weak) spark, replace the ICM and coil.
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