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-   -   1990 Honda Civic 1.5 DX won't start!HELP! (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=40831)

  • Nov 4, 2006, 02:24 PM
    CoB_hatecrew
    1990 Honda Civic 1.5 DX won't start! HELP!!
    OK I recently bought a 1990 honda civic hb 5speed non v-tec... it won't start and if it does it doesn't stay running long at all. Replaced the distributor and put a brand new computer in it... still won't run.. I'm getting spark into the distributor but none out... any ideas? Thanks in advance
  • Nov 4, 2006, 04:38 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Did your new distributor come with a new igniter and coil?

    Check main relay, igniter, coil, and MAP Sensor.
  • Nov 4, 2006, 05:23 PM
    CoB_hatecrew
    Yea I bought a new one and put it in... I'm thinking that the wires from the harness could have touched each other or metal and shorted something out because there are bare spots on the harness near the plug in... and its not secured down... so I think I need to put the one from the old distributor in it and check all the fuses and see if any of those blew when the wires touched... what do you think?
  • Nov 4, 2006, 05:28 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    When you turn the ignition switch ON, does the check engine light come on and then go off after 2 seconds? Is there a relay click sound when the check engine light goes out? Does the fuel pump whine for 2 seconds?

    Take a test light or a multimeter and test the ACG(s) under-dash fuse. Probably Fuse No. 24.
  • Nov 4, 2006, 05:29 PM
    CoB_hatecrew
    The check engine light stays on the whole time and the fuel pump is fine there is nothing wrong with it
  • Nov 4, 2006, 05:31 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Your car will never start if the check engine light stays on. The problem is with the main relay, ACG(S) fuse, ECM or ignition switch.
  • Nov 4, 2006, 05:33 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Do you hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds, when you turn the ignition to ON?
  • Nov 19, 2006, 04:21 PM
    CoB_hatecrew
    I'm not too sure about the fuel pump... but the magnetic pickup was bad in the distributor
  • Nov 19, 2006, 04:57 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Does it now run? Did you have a bad pickup in the new distributor?
  • Nov 21, 2006, 12:43 PM
    CoB_hatecrew
    The fuel pump doesn't wine... so I'm going to go check the fuse now... but that still doesn't explain me not getting any spark out of the distributor
  • Nov 21, 2006, 12:57 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    A bad Main Relay could explain the problem, since it controls power to the ECM, fuel pump, and fuel injectors.

    Jump terminals 5 and 7 to the Main Relay and you should hear the fuel pump run.
  • Nov 23, 2006, 03:14 PM
    CoB_hatecrew
    There is no 24th fuse it only goes to 18... what now?
  • Nov 23, 2006, 03:39 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Look for a fuse labeled "ACG (S) ALT" or something similar. I have worked with individuals on this site before where some "friend" removed Fuse No. 24 and left it empty. Look on your under-dash fuse box cover and see if you can identify a fuse that is labeled something like this. This fuse controls power to the main relay, computer, and gauges.
  • Nov 29, 2006, 11:08 AM
    CoB_hatecrew
    What I meant was there is no slot numberd 24... they stop at 18
  • Nov 29, 2006, 11:17 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Next step, then, is to replace your Main Relay.
  • Nov 29, 2006, 05:05 PM
    CoB_hatecrew
    Where is the main relay at?
  • Nov 29, 2006, 06:09 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    It should be located around where the driver's left knee hits the kick panel. The Main Relay's first relay provides power to the ECM, fuel injectors, and second relay. The Main Relay's second relay is energized for 2 seconds, when the ignition is turned to ON, and when the engine is running, which supplies power to the fuel pump. It has a 3" metal bracket, which is attached to the frame with a 10 mm bolt. For easier access, remove the under-dash fuse box cover and the 3 screws securing the lower dash panel cover. Turn the ignition switch on and off, to help you locate it. You should be able to hear and feel it click.
  • Nov 30, 2006, 03:19 PM
    CoB_hatecrew
    Does it sit behind the hood latch popper and to the left of the fuse box?
  • Nov 30, 2006, 03:42 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Yes, that's it.
  • Nov 30, 2006, 04:02 PM
    CoB_hatecrew
    it has like a weird z bracket and it has a white plug with a bunch of wires... is that it... and how or where would I find a replacement
  • Nov 30, 2006, 04:20 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Advance Auto, Autozone, Honda, and RockAuto.com, among others, carry them. Make sure it's a Fuel Injection Main Relay for your year and model Civic. Here's an idea of what they should look like and cost:

    http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...ection%20Relay
  • Dec 2, 2006, 10:09 AM
    CoB_hatecrew
    OK I took out the wrong thing it only has four prongs... how the hell do I get the main one out... do I have to take the dash off because I was upside down under my fuse box and could not find that main relay
  • Dec 2, 2006, 10:12 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Did you turn your ignition switch on and off to help you locate it? Have someone else turn the switch on and off and you get down and listen on the passenger side of the car.

    Are you sure the main relay doesn't have just 4 prongs on your year Civic?

    I sent you the wrong link. Here's what your main relay should look like:

    http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...ection%20Relay
  • Dec 2, 2006, 10:21 AM
    CoB_hatecrew
    I went on a site that posted pictures from a auto book for my year civic and it showed it to be on like the far left side close to the dash but all I can see is where the pillar connects to the body... and when I search for main relay for my year model and engine size it shows a main relay with either 7 or 8 prongs... its on the driver side for sure I just can't find it... and am really going to dread it if I have to take the dash apart to find it
  • Dec 2, 2006, 10:25 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Here's another link showing your main relay has only a 4 pin connector:

    http://info.rockauto.com/SMP/SMPDetail3.html?RY187.html


    I think you found the main relay and just didn't believe it.

    When you reinstall the main relay, relocate it so it's not so difficult to get to next tine.
  • Dec 2, 2006, 10:34 AM
    CoB_hatecrew
    The one I got was on the driver side like behind and up a little from the hood latch popper... and the numbers don't match on that page to the one I have... every book I looked at locates my main relay on the driver side to the left of the fuse box and up a little
  • Dec 2, 2006, 10:44 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    I must have been getting your year Civic confused with someone else's. Your's is on the driver's side, like I originally said in posting #17. Remove the under-dash fuse box cover and the 3 screws to the lower dash panel. The relay is attached with a 10 mm bolt.
  • Dec 2, 2006, 10:48 AM
    CoB_hatecrew
    OK ill be back I'm going to go do that now
  • Dec 2, 2006, 11:34 AM
    CoB_hatecrew
    Well I broke part of my dash but super glue will fix that... now should I test it to see if its bad and see if there is a shot connection or something
  • Dec 2, 2006, 11:54 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    I recommend replacing them every 10 years or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first.

    How many pin connector was yours?
  • Dec 2, 2006, 12:08 PM
    CoB_hatecrew
    7 pins mitsuba
  • Dec 2, 2006, 12:10 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Yes, just like mine. I replaced mine with a Mitsuba RZ-0159, which I bought through RockAuto.com.
  • Dec 2, 2006, 12:25 PM
    CoB_hatecrew
    Mine is a RZ-0063
  • Dec 2, 2006, 12:29 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Yes, RockAuto.com has a Mitsuba RZ-0063, RockAuto part no. 39400SH3003, for $36.79+shipping.
  • Dec 2, 2006, 12:50 PM
    CoB_hatecrew
    Mines 48.79 with shipping... 42.79 with out shipping... what's up with that?
  • Dec 2, 2006, 12:52 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Interesting. Maybe you live in a more expensive part of the country and they charge accordingly. I don't know.
  • Dec 2, 2006, 01:10 PM
    CoB_hatecrew
    Still not as expensive as auto zone and advance... they don't even carry them normally and you have to pay more to get them special order... anyway I just want to thank you very much for all your help!
  • Dec 2, 2006, 01:15 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    That Mitsuba you are ordering is an OEM part, too. Keep me posted with the results.
  • Dec 2, 2006, 02:15 PM
    CoB_hatecrew
    Well I found out how to test the relay and it is fine... my check engine light is still on and it won't start... n e ideas now? I think the main relay might not be getting a charge from the batery because it doesn't click... but when I tested it directly it clicked... any ideas
  • Dec 2, 2006, 03:06 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    With the main relay separated from the connector, turn the ignition on and measure the voltage between main relay connector terminal 5 and body ground.

    Clean the ECM's main ground on the thermostat housing. It has 2 wires going to a heavy duty brass connector, which you should remove and clean with 240 grit abrassive cloth. Spray with WD-40 and refasten.

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