Whoops... didn't mean to post that again. I still don't know what was going on with the fuses... but they're all working now... so who knows.

Hey,
We are having the same problem, check engine light won't go out, the fuel pump won't turn on and we aren't getting a spark at the plugs. We have checked everything from the distributer to the ECM, eventually replacing it. The replaced ECM started the car once in about 2 seconds and made the engine light go away. So we put everything back together and when we were about to drive out to get some connectors for the sound system, we got a check engine light again and now it won't start.

This was a gradual problem, it started with the car not starting every time you turn the ignition over, you had to wait for the fuel pump to kick in. We have fixed the main relay, and know that it works, and we know that fuel pump works.
We are wondering if we are just frying the ECM's somehow.

We also have no idea where the map sensor is on the engine

If Your Engine Cranks but Does Not Start Follow this Troubleshooting Guide

# Step 1 - Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test OK continue to the next step.

# Step 2 - To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test OK a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running. The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is OK with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

# Step 3 - The spark plugs in your engine are used to ignite the compressed fuel air mixture. If the condition of the spark plugs are fouled by excessive fuel or carbon the engine will not start, backfire or run rough. Remove all spark plugs to inspect their condition. Please use this spark plug condition reference guide to see how the spark plugs are operating.

# Step 4 - Determine if the engine has compression, this can be done a number of ways but the most complete method is to perform a compression check. Remove the spark plugs and perform a compression test on one cylinder. If one cylinder has compression then the remaining cylinders usually will be close to the same. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds, normal compression readings should be between 125 psi and 160 psi on each cylinder. If no or little compression exists additional tests will be needed. The most common reason for an engine to lose compression is a timing belt or timing chain failure. If low or no compression exists remove the oil fill cap and observe camshaft rotation when the engine is cranked over. If no rotation exists the timing belt or chain has failed. If your engine has a timing belt and you cannot see the camshaft easily remove the upper bolts to the timing cover and gain visual access to the belt, recheck cam rotation by cranking the engine over. Sometimes a timing belt or chain can jump causing the camshaft to lose correlation with the crankshaft and therefore causing low compression. The best test for this condition is to remove the timing belt/chain cover and inspect timing marks. If the compression is OK proceed to next step.

# Step 5 - Test the ignition system output, ignition systems can vary in configuration but operate on the same principal. Ignition systems can consist of a coil, pick up coil, crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, ignition rotor and a distributor and any variations of these components. An ignition coil is a voltage stepper coil that transforms a low voltage (12 volts) signal into tens of thousands of volts needed to jump the gap of the spark plug. This coil is activated by an ignition module triggered by using the camshaft/crankshaft angle sensor; timing is adjusted by the ECM (computer).

If this doesn't work try to consult from Certified Auto Techinicians/Engineer. :D

Been through the same thing for the past 4 days trying to figure out how to fix this problem. When the car is not starting you need to check the spark if it looks weak and you actually try bypassing the relay and force the fuel pump to run and it still won't start It's the IGNITION SWITCH also a very common problem with these cars. One of the symptoms is an irregular shift. Of course we didn't realize it was shifting as bad as it was until we by-passed the ignition switch and the car ran great shifted great. New switch is about $200 I don't have that much pulled one from a junk yard for $10 hopefully it will last awhile...
Anybody gets this post and wants more info feel free to email me [email protected]