Ask Me Help Desk - 1993 Civic DX Won't Start.. . Need Help!

Please start a new thread!

Test all underhood and underdash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Even though you replaced fuses, this will test for "power through the fuse."

Does the Check Engine Light come on for 2 seconds and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?

94 honda civic fuel pump doesn't come on when you turn on the key

This should help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1245523

Quote:

Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

This should help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1245523

Hello TXGM,

I have read (and hard-copied) many of your posts re automotive
Repair/troubleshoot procedures. I have a question re the
Original distributors in the 90s Honda Civics.

I have a 96 Honda Civic DX w/ original dizzy and 81K mi.
From what I can gather, these dizzys tend to have issues
Beginning at anywhere from 90K to 120K mi.

Question: Is the dizzy currently available from the Honda
Dealer (the TEC model 30100-P2E-A02) subject to the same
Problems as the original dizzy? Has its design been
Improved over the last decade+? Would a non-Honda aftrmarket
Part be better?

Thanks.

MVC

madvladcivic, it's still the same storry. They suffer from the same limitations; i.e. lack of splash lubrication (sealed bearings only last so long) and intense heat that fries the ICM and coil. Again, I would only buy a genuine Honda distributor housing, where it's fine to install an aftermarket ICM and coil. Everything else is suspect and will let you down at an inopportune time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

madvladcivic, it's still the same storry. They suffer from the same limitations; i.e., lack of splash lubrication (sealed bearings only last so long) and intense heat that fries the ICM and coil. Again, I would only buy a genuine Honda distributor housing, where it's fine to install an aftermarket ICM and coil. Everything else is suspect and will let you down at an inopportune time.

Hello TXGM,

Thank you for the very speedy reply!

The reason I asked is because a poster at HondaHookup described
An issue he had w/ his dizzy. In a 96 Civic DX no less. His original
Dizzy fried at 110K mi and he bought a "new" dizzy at a salvage yard.
It fried in a week. Now, he has installed an aftermarket part.
I am aware of the dizzy issues esp wrt/ the ICM and coil. His
Problem was new to me: the heat-induced compromise of the
Plastic encasement of the tdc/cyp/ckp sensor. This happened in
BOTH the aforementioned Honda dizzys.

Honda replaced my rotor, dizzy cap, plugs and wires in Nov '09
Under an extended emission warranty recall. I am simply
Preparing for the inevitable.

Basically, the compromise of the tdc/cyp/ckp sensor casing
Renders the dizzy housing unusable. Even if the ICM and coil
Are still functional.

Thank you.

MVC

Yes, melted internal sensors happen, just not that frequently.

1993 Civic DX Won't Start

Does the CEL stay on, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?

Quote:

Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Answer these 3 basic diagnostic questions for me:

1. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (not START), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds?.

2. When the CEL goes out, do you hear (or feel) the main relay "click"?,

3. During the 2 second interval that the CEL is on, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run?

Your answer to each question above:

1.Yes .. But sometimes light won't go off

2.normally when it starts id hear the relay click but does click when it won't start.

3.

Not sure

The remanufactured ECM I installed 15 years ago has now failed. Since it came with a lifetime warranty from O’Reilly Auto Parts, I installed another remanufactured ECM. The K-Test identified the ECM as the problem. The 1993 Civic is back on the road earning its keep.