The engine won't even crank now... after I hooked up the recharged battery the relay clicked rappidly and the gauge lights were dim for a couple of tries then nothing at all... and the battery has a full charge

I thought you were talking about the main relay. Now it sounds like you are talking about the starter solenoid. Read Section T:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235560

No the main relay was clicking rappidly like three times and then I wasn't getting power to anything at all... nothing not even my dome light will come on and all the fuses are good I double checked them... I don't know my haynes manual says it could be a fuable link but I don't know

Yes, check for a fusible link.

Where?? The diagrams are way too confusing

If you have one, it should look like a "bump" in one of the wires going to the starter.

Is it like a fuse in the wire?

Frequently, they are like a brown lump in the wire. It might be 1" long. You will likely have to solder a new one in the line.

What is it exactly thought?

It's a nonreusable fuse. It may even be wrapped in electrical tape.

Have you tried hooking up a remote starter switch and seeing if your ignition switch is bad? I would do that first.

Have you cleaned the starter motor and starter solenoid contacts and cables?

I think its my battery that is messed up... ill let you know more later

Tx , my fuel pump is bad and I'm not sure where it is because there aren't any fuel lines coming out of it

Should be in the gas tank. Normally, you remove the rear seat for access. Be sure to disconnect negative. Battery cable first.

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post234818

There is no access panel on my year civic but I don't want to drop the gas tank

OK I got it running and had to replace the thermostat... the top heater hose is warm but the bottom isn't the book says its normal but my dad says it isn't... what's going on?

You never came back and said what was the cause of your Civic not running.

Remember that a spark will find least resistance to ground. If you take the cap off and check for spark out of coil and is good. If you put rotor and cap on and no spark out of known good parts then there is too much resistance somewhere and spark is shorting to the dist case. Probably a bad coil. They have been known to short to case. When you pull it out you may see small burn circle on it between it and metal cover. Circle will show purple heat marks where it shorted to. Also check and make sure tit is still in cap. A lot of people try replacing cap without removing wires and break it. If you did this, coil is definitely toast.

Check fuel filter, and may be place to check pressure while your at it. Sounds like spark problem near solved.

HI TX, first apologies for my english is not my native language... jump into my case I have 1990 civic honda hatch back 1.5L more then 200,000 miles since why buy this car I got the problem that some times start and some times not, I want to mention that that before to start the car again I have to wait around 10 minutes, and the car works... two week ago I did a tune up changing cables,sparks, distributor cup and rotor and the car work fine but the next day won't start I give up and I leave the car sit for a week and wend I get back to the car at first try the car was back online”?” . Then I change the gasoline filter and the car won't start In that moment I feel that gasoline is not injecting on the carburetor... I open the gasoline line that go for the gasoline pump to the gasoline filter give turn to the key and is not injecting gasoline... my next step I check the gasoline pump and I was fine also I replace the main relay and nothing, I give up again and leave the car for few days... Then went I get back to the car magic the fist try the car came back a life I drove the car for few days and the died a gain someone told me that has the same problems and give me advice to replace the start ignition switch and I did magic a gain the car start immediately but the next day won't start... is kind a crazy this situation... please any help...

duende08, ensure that the car passes the 3 basic diagnostic questions, in Sections A and B, of the Sticky. Next, clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing, and clean the connector going to the MAP Sensor. Perform the K-Test on the ECM--should it fail, replace the ECM.

Because of the age and mileage on your Civic, I would also replace the Ignition Control Module and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

If you do everything above, I bet your problem will be solved.

Thank you so much TX I found a solution for my car... I got some fuses blow out and also in the wrong place... but the main problem it was the main relay, wend I ask for the "main relay" on the store in the database come out a small relay with four pins after reading all your advice and follow the hyperlinks that you create to see the images of the main relay just to get and idea how looks and make sure that I replace the correct relay. I make an inspection and I found the Main relay hide behind the panel... I replace the relay ($12) for one used that I take for another car... I wish to buy new one but my economy is not so good in this times... Well Thanks again TX for your help and I going to safe your advice because are really useful...

Hey tx? I'm having a new issue with my honda, its flooding like crazy , replaced fuel pump, injector, regulator and filter, I think its finally the main relay, or fuel relay, what do you think?

Check regulator and ECT.

Already put a brand new regulator on it, ECT? Can you elaborate on what exactly that is?

Howdy TX, you seem to be pretty good with vehicles so I want to know what you think. I have an '89 Ford 250 pickup with the original naturally-aspirated 7.3L. I live in the blue ridge mountains of VA, and normally have to plug in the block heater overnight during the winter months. However when the weather turned warmer this spring, I was still having to plug it in so that it would start after one cycling of the glow plugs. It is now summer and the average overnight temperature is in the mid to upper 80s, and although I am not plugging the truck in, I have to cycle the glowplugs at least three times before the engine will catch and run. Even then it emits a noxious cloud of blue smoke until it warms up. I have a fair bit of experience with industrial marine diesel engines and I don't think it is burning oil or else it would smoke constantly. I am leaning toward replacing the injectors. What do you think?

agireland, have you tested the glow plugs? They may be bad.

Are you going to tell me what an ECT is Tx or just leave me hangin?

After spending a lot of time working with you, in the past, you never came back and told us what got your car running. It's a two-way street and I was annoyed, to say the least. It was you who let me hang for a long time!

No, I haven't. I had to replace one of them after the engine backfired on me on evening after it had been sitting for a few days and blew the top of the glow plug out of the block! (first time I've ever had a diesel engine backfire, and no, I didn't put any ether in it) But back to the topic, how do you test them? Normally I would asssume you could take a volt meter and test for continuity, but there is only one wire going into the top of each one. By the way, thanks for taking the time to help me figure this out.

agireland, see if this link helps:

TheDieselStop.Com - www.thedieselstop.com

I did not relize that it was required but now that I know I appolgize to you tx you have helped a lot and I would like to continue to work with you, so I will tell you all the problems I have had to fix, first we replaced the distri. And fuel pump and it ran great for about a month then it started over-heating big time, and we replaced the thermostat, that made it run for another two months, then the air idle control unit went out, replaced it, fixed the issue, car ran for another months, in which time I hit a big buck with my honda, and I'm glad to report only miner body damage, and some poo on the plate. Then I was picking my girlfriend up from school and I was giving it gas and it would die, I think , hey must be spark plugs. Replaced them started up and backfired, and it hasn't ran but I think once since that time, we have replaced the fuel filter, the fuel pressure regulator, and the fuel injector, with brand new OEM replacements, and the main injector is still just spitting out way too much gas, thereby flooding the engine and it can't even start. I hope this is what you were looking for tx I could really use your help

Apology is accepted. My "reward" is getting a report if the suggestions work or not.

ECT = Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. The ECT Sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the engine coolant temperature increases. It's a primary input to the ECM and affects fuel injector pulse width, similar to what the oxygen sensor does. It's located on the thermostat. It provides a richer mixture when cold, leaner mixture when hot.

TX,
That's an awesome website with tons of info about both new and older diesel trucks. I will test the glow plugs over the weekend and let you know if that's the problem. I am thinking right now it is, because I failed to mention that they sent me the wrong glow plug ( I had to get it from a dealership) and I have been driving around with a bolt in the hole that the glow plug is supposed to be in! I did that to prevent exhaust leak. I am waiting for them to get me the right one, but that website suggested replacing all of them at once. I am going to test them anyway, just to satisfy both of our curiosity. Thanks again and I will let you know how it works out.

What would I do to check that because that part doesn't even come up in my haynes manual

Would it be this part right here---> While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com

That's it. The only two sensors that I know of that affect the injectors are the ECT and oxygen. See if my suggestion makes sense to you, since I have never seen flooding on a Honda.

Before buying a new ECT Sensor, I would advance the timing. This may be why your Civic is flooding; i.e. it won't start because the timing is too retarded and backfiring. Loosen the three distributor mounting bolts and rotate distributor 1/4" counterclockwise. If this solves the problem, you can place a timing light on it later to precisely set the timing.

TXGM, 91 civic. Cranks but no start. CEL illuminates/relay clicks and turns off after 2 seconds as advertised, as well as a hum from the fuel pump. Checked battery charge.12 volts + Good Checked all relevant fuses in the engine comp. and under dash. Good. Tested across the coil terminals .8 resistance Good. Tested for power to the ICM on both blk/yel & wht/blu 12 volts Good. Removed a spark plug with wire attached and spark is visible. Good
Considered a possible fuel problem, sprayed carb cleaner in the intake while cranking, no difference.

Considering replacing the entire distributor either way, and fuel filter. 165k miles on engine.
Would appreciate your assistance on getting this bad boy fired up.

First, install a new ICM and coil. Second, if the problem persists, transfer the new ICM and coil to a new genuine Honda distributor housing. Keep me posted.