Not sure I understand that last sentence.

On older cars, and especially trucks, it's not uncommon for fuses to be good but they don't work because of corrosion. Just remove and clean them with abrasive cloth. Apply a light coating of dielectric grease or spray with WD-40. The key fuses to focus on are #13 (Starter Signal Fuse) and the ACG (ALT) (S). Fuse 13 controls power to main relay Terminal 6, the second relay within the main relay. Did you depress the clutch when you tested Fuse 13? The ACG (ALT) (S) fuse control power to the first relay (Terminal 5) within the main relay.

I didn't depress the clutch when I tested #13. Should I?

Yes.

Can you confirm that the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse is fine?

OK... I just tested the ACG (ALT) S fuse... it's fine. I took the starter signal fuse #13 out, cleaned it, put it back in, depressed the clutch... and nothing. I also put a spare 7.5A fuse in that slot, and tested it... nothing.

Weird, huh?

I can only conclude there's a problem with the ignition switch, since fuses 7, 9, 11 and 13 are not getting power.

What do you think?

It's very possible... even though this one is still relatively new. I'll do some more diagnosing and if I can't come up with anything, I might just bite the bullet and have it towed to the shop. And if it costs unreasonably much to fix, I'll probably just junk it and ride the bus until I can save to get another car. I guess I can't complain... I did get over 320,000 miles out of it.

But thanks again for all of your help. I really appreciate it.

New ignition switches usually cost around $65, maybe less if you shop for a deal online. I just had end links go bad after 18 months--fortunately, they had a lifetime warranty and I exchanged them. So stuff does go bad surprisingly early, sometimes.

Don't give up.. . victory is very close!

I just had a thought. With so many fuses not receiving power, disconnect the negative battery cable and examine the ignition switche's connector that goes into the under dash fuse box. In fact, examine all connectors going to the ignition switch. There may be corrosion/contact issue. Check things out and spray WD-40 on the connectors. It may just be a connector issue.

Cool. I'll try that... and let you know what happens.

Great.

Hi there... OK I checked the connection to the fuse panel and I didn't find any obvious signs of corrosion or anything... but here's what I DID find.

Several years ago, I had a car alarm put on. It later stopped working so I just disconnected the little box that the wires go to so I could start the car. Apparently, part of the installation includes clipping a thin yellow wire to the BLK/YEL wire coming from the ignition switch. This yellow wire is clipped to the BLK/YEL wire with a little plastic clip, which has a little blade that cuts into the wire from the ignition switch (my guess would be so some of that current will go to the alarm system). I took that clip off, and the BLK/YEL is partially cut through. So... I'm thinking my next move should be to cut this wire, strip the two ends and tie them together and wrap it with some electrical tape.

So... what gets me is this... when I had the ignition assembly replaced back in January... would the dealer just put on a new cylinder housing assembly, and left me with the same ignition switch/wires?

What do you think?

ID

Completely removing alarm systems is always a hassle. I know your problem only involves the ignition switch. Why else would so many fuses not be getting power? Since I'm not there to look at things, just use your common sense and go over the ignition switch and harness very carefully.

If splicing those two wires solves the problem, use heat-shrink tubing, not electrical tape.

It appears that's what the dealer did.

With the negative battery cable removed, turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II) and run a simple continuity test on each end of the harness. That should tell you a lot.

OK... I was able to remove the alarm system wiring (it was a Y harness between the 7P connector from the ignition switch and the main harness). I connected the 7P to the main harness, and tested everything... still no power to the fuses. I'll try the continuity test, and if necessary... just get a new ignition switch.

So... let's say that a new ignition switch doesn't solve this. Does the focus shift back to the distributor?

Also... the other thing I'm beginning to notice is that when I try to start it, the cranking is getting slower and slower. That's probably a batter issue. Right?

All right I'm going to hop in here quick. I'm a novice but an ingenious learner. Cranking no starting. 2 second CEL, hear the fuel, hear the click. I need to buy something to read the volts I'm guessing. Is there a place with a picture of the wires I need to check/ After I check all the fuses I guess I'll have more answers.
(I can't type a question mark for some reason... )

Good news! I my car running! After I put the new distributor on... it still wouldn't start. So I then tested the computor, main relay, map sensor... nothing. I also noticed that it would crank slower and slower. So... that, and knowing that the car has been sitting for almost 7 months... I took the battery in to be charged. I brought it back, put it in, and after a couple more start attempts... it started! It was a bit rough at first... but now it runs like a top. I'm so happy to have transportation again.

Thanks again for all of your help!

Good job! I'm so glad you got it running--the alternative was not pretty. I apologize for not seeing your postings on August 19th.

Did you figure out what was preventing so many fuses from getting power?

Good news! I my car running! After I put the new distributor on... it still wouldn't start. So I then tested the computor, main relay, map sensor... nothing. I also noticed that it would crank slower and slower. So... that, and knowing that the car has been sitting for almost 7 months... I took the battery in to be charged. I brought it back, put it in, and after a couple more start attempts... it started! It was a bit rough at first... but now it runs like a top. I'm so happy to have transportation again.

Thanks again for all of your help!

Whoops... didn't mean to post that again. I still don't know what was going on with the fuses... but they're all working now... so who knows.

Hey,
We are having the same problem, check engine light won't go out, the fuel pump won't turn on and we aren't getting a spark at the plugs. We have checked everything from the distributer to the ECM, eventually replacing it. The replaced ECM started the car once in about 2 seconds and made the engine light go away. So we put everything back together and when we were about to drive out to get some connectors for the sound system, we got a check engine light again and now it won't start.

This was a gradual problem, it started with the car not starting every time you turn the ignition over, you had to wait for the fuel pump to kick in. We have fixed the main relay, and know that it works, and we know that fuel pump works.
We are wondering if we are just frying the ECM's somehow.

We also have no idea where the map sensor is on the engine

If Your Engine Cranks but Does Not Start Follow this Troubleshooting Guide

# Step 1 - Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test OK continue to the next step.

# Step 2 - To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test OK a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running. The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is OK with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

# Step 3 - The spark plugs in your engine are used to ignite the compressed fuel air mixture. If the condition of the spark plugs are fouled by excessive fuel or carbon the engine will not start, backfire or run rough. Remove all spark plugs to inspect their condition. Please use this spark plug condition reference guide to see how the spark plugs are operating.

# Step 4 - Determine if the engine has compression, this can be done a number of ways but the most complete method is to perform a compression check. Remove the spark plugs and perform a compression test on one cylinder. If one cylinder has compression then the remaining cylinders usually will be close to the same. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds, normal compression readings should be between 125 psi and 160 psi on each cylinder. If no or little compression exists additional tests will be needed. The most common reason for an engine to lose compression is a timing belt or timing chain failure. If low or no compression exists remove the oil fill cap and observe camshaft rotation when the engine is cranked over. If no rotation exists the timing belt or chain has failed. If your engine has a timing belt and you cannot see the camshaft easily remove the upper bolts to the timing cover and gain visual access to the belt, recheck cam rotation by cranking the engine over. Sometimes a timing belt or chain can jump causing the camshaft to lose correlation with the crankshaft and therefore causing low compression. The best test for this condition is to remove the timing belt/chain cover and inspect timing marks. If the compression is OK proceed to next step.

# Step 5 - Test the ignition system output, ignition systems can vary in configuration but operate on the same principal. Ignition systems can consist of a coil, pick up coil, crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, ignition rotor and a distributor and any variations of these components. An ignition coil is a voltage stepper coil that transforms a low voltage (12 volts) signal into tens of thousands of volts needed to jump the gap of the spark plug. This coil is activated by an ignition module triggered by using the camshaft/crankshaft angle sensor; timing is adjusted by the ECM (computer).

If this doesn't work try to consult from Certified Auto Techinicians/Engineer. :D

Been through the same thing for the past 4 days trying to figure out how to fix this problem. When the car is not starting you need to check the spark if it looks weak and you actually try bypassing the relay and force the fuel pump to run and it still won't start It's the IGNITION SWITCH also a very common problem with these cars. One of the symptoms is an irregular shift. Of course we didn't realize it was shifting as bad as it was until we by-passed the ignition switch and the car ran great shifted great. New switch is about $200 I don't have that much pulled one from a junk yard for $10 hopefully it will last awhile...
Anybody gets this post and wants more info feel free to email me [email protected]