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I recently couldn't start my 2000 Accord 4 cyl and it was my spare key that was the problem! I swore that I used it once before but now I think it was just to open the door to get to the real key inside. Being a mech. Engineer I started going about it the complicated way but never opened the owner's manual! Doh! Couldn't even get advice at honda-tech.com. Thank you for the help guys. Saved me a lot more head aches.
I just started having a problem like this yesterday. I have a 1993 honda accord. Yesterday I went out and started it up, and like usual it started up just fine. Then I drove about 70 miles, and stopped to get gas. I turned the car off, went inside to pay, pumped the gas, got in, and when I tried to start it, nothing. It wouldn't even make a noise. You put the key in, and go to crank it over, and at the point where the car usually starts up, now it just makes a very small, light clicking noise and all the dashboard lights and radio shut off. As soon as you release the key, the lights slowly fade back on and the radio comes back on. So today we replaced the battery, and it started up fine. Then I came out 5 hours later to see if it would start, and that same problem happened again. I don't understand what the problem is, can anyone help me out here?
We have had the same problem with our 1999 Honda sedan 4 cyl. No one could diagnose it because they couldn't reproduce the problem, as the car always started for them. The not starting problem always seemed to happen when the car sat out in the hot sun, not in the garage. We took it to a Honda dealer today, and fortunately the car would not start once there. They said the immobilizer light was blinking and after talking to Honda tech support, they felt it was related to the car alarm wire connected to the immobilizer. The next time it did not start they clipped the alarm wire to the immobilizer and the car started right up. They feel confident this is the cause of our problems. I hope this information is of some help to you.Quote:
Originally Posted by ladyj
Had the same problem with our 1999 Honda intermittently not starting. This seemed to usually happen when it sat out in the hot sun, not in the cool garage. Today our Honda dealer noted that whenthe car would not start the immobilizer light was blinking. He disconnected our alarm system wire from the immobilizer and the car started right up. He feels confident this cured our problem. We are hopeful it did also.
I enjoy driving my Accord, but preferr the reliability of my Lexus IS300
I've recently found this informative site that may help Honda owners
http://techauto.tripod.com
(Details Info on Main Relay and Other Intermittent Starting Problems and Solutions)
I am currently having the same problem with my 00 accord. I don't think it's the key problem, because I have 3 keys, which I have tried them all and the car still doesn't work. I don't hear the fuel pump working in the back so maybe that's the problem? I'm about to take my car to the dealership tomorrow to see what's wrong. I hope its not going to be so expensive! Plus its not the thing when its hot outside, because its fairly cool today, and my car has been sitting in this cool weather for a while and it still doesn't want to start. Why oh why are we having this problem??
I also forgot to mention that when I try to start all I get is a click, which sounds like its coming from the "distributor."
Check the battery, try jump start using jumper cables with another car.
It could be (a) your battery, (b) the battery cables, (c) the starter itself, (d) less likely to be the ignition switch.
If your battery is weak or 4+ year old, try replacing it first.
thank you, but I've already tried jumping it, which yielded unsuccessful. I just called aaa and they are about to help me tow it to the dealership. =(
Okay, so I took it to the dealership, and it turned out to be the starter. My starter went dead. Hope this helps anyone
Everyone that is having this issue try this. Turn the key slowly to each turn over points. I think there is three of them. On the last one when the car turns over. At the same time your are turning the key press a little on the gas. If you do this right it will start right up and you know you have an issue with the fuel pump.:)
Honda Accord 98 v6 144,000 miles
Check the main relay by doing this... before soldering if you want...
Test the main relay by removing it first... it's under the dash/left side by fuse panel.
You'll need a volt meter for this... Under 20 bucks at most stores or borrow a buddies.
Using a pair of jumper wires, connect the battery positive terminal to the #4 relay terminal, ground the #8 terminal, then check for continuity between the #5 and #7 terminals. If there's no continuity, replace or solder the relay at these terminal locations.
Continued...
Connect the battery positive erminal to the #5 relay terminal, ground the #2 terminal and then verify there's continuity between the #1 and #3 terminals. If there isn't, replace or solder the relay at these terminal locations.
Continued on more time...
Connect the battery positive terminal to the #3 relay terminal and ground the #8 terminal. Verify there's continuity between the #5 and #7 terminals. If there's no continuity, replace or solder the relay at these terminal locations.
Note: if you can't find the battery positive terminal after you unplug the main relay... find a good ground on any part of the car and touch the terminals with the positive side of the meter individually. This will let you know where the positive one is. Here is the pin location looking at the relay with the "tang" in the up position.
8 "tang" 4 2
7 5 3 1
Sounds like a lot but it should only take five minutes or so to check. In the end could save you a lot of money for a fuel pump that works... only when the main relay is working.
Hope this helps
Hi there ! Having the same odd problem. My 1999 Honda Accord Coupe 4cyl engine (CG4) randomly doesn't want to start. Nothing to do with hot or cold weather. Keys are OK. Fuel filter has been changed. Of course, the problem only occurs with me. The engine starts... few moments later, it stalls. I remove the key and put it back again and waiting 5 minutes, the car will start again most of the times. The problem seems to occur when the fuel tank is half empty. I suspected bad fuel in the beginning but since the filter change I'm doubtful. I noticed this problem once or twice happening the last two years but now it's all the time. Very frustrating. Interestingly, once the car is rolling down the road, everything is fine. Even when I need to stop at traffic lights, no issue. The car doesn't like no more to run idle with the cold engine. Even when the engine starts, it can happen that after 2 or 3 minutes it stalls and I have problems to get it running again. Could this be related to an old timing belt ? My Honda dealer is clueless. Unfortunately, this kind of car is a seldom one here in Europe and the dealership doesn't have lots of experience with it.
jpkasel, I would try replacing the Ignition Control Module (igniter) and coil inside the distributor. These are very problematic components on Hondas--especially the igniter.
Hi ! I think that replacing the Ignition Control Module makes sense. For the coil, I don't think so because it looks quit good inside. I even had the contacts cleaned. The problem with this issue is that the fuel filter was indeed pretty dirty (got replaced), I had a little animal bite a cable under the hood (got fixed) and finally my springs got hit violently when I drove too fast up a slope (maybe that made damage to the ignition control module). Well, all these things at the same time makes it difficult to trace the source of the problem. BUT many thanks for the suggestion, I'll have my mechanic check into it. Jean-Paul
Jean-Paul, here's how to replace the Ignition Control Module yourself:
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896
Electron migration, accelerated by heat, normally causes these components to fail. I recommend replacement every 10 years or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first.
Just to make a follow-up... The problem appears to be solved by having changed the main relay behind the dashboard and also doing a Honda recommended replacement concerning a "multiplexer control unit". Don't know whether that is the ignition control module but fact is that the car now feels like having 20 horsepower more. Acceleration is pretty good now and the engine no more stalls.
Go to internetauto.com and it can tell you all recalls for your carQuote:
Originally Posted by ladyj
As do I. I did check my fuses and they are or seem to be fine. The igintion recall at the bottom of the page is a help but I really would like to sort out this windows/lock problem as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by asingh
Any help would be great!
Hi Folks...
I fought with this problem myself... took me a year to figure out... but I had the exact problem that you did; here is how you fix it.
The Main Relay on the Honda Accord is called a "Fuel Injector Relay." If you go to your local part store it should run about 58 bucks. Purchase the part first... it will help you to know what you are looking for. (A gray little box with a plug at the end.)
This is how you fix it.
1. Get in the drivers seat.
2. Keep door open and look on the left side of the dashboard. You will notice a removable panel labeled fuses. NOTE: You can only see it with the door open.
3. Remove the panel by pulling out.
4. Two (2) screws hold a bottom panel under the steering wheel. Remove the screws (Black and Brass) and remove the panel by pulling outward and down.
5. Look through the cluster of wires and you will see the FIR (Fuel Injector Relay)
6. Use a 10 mm rachet to remove the bracket holding a plastic pin and the FIR.
7. Use a small flat head screw driver to remove the FIR
8. Unplug the old... plug in the new.
9. Reverse these steps to reassemble your panel under your dash.
A honda dealership tried to get 3000 bucks out of me to find and fix this problem. After much research I found the answer for under 60 bucks.
Good luck... this should fix your issues!
Be well.
Let me know if this works for you! The best advice is cheap if not free!
MySpace.com - Tim ONeil - Detroit, Michigan - Ambient / Classical / Acoustic - www.myspace.com/composertimoneil
Sincerely,
Tim O'Neil
Thank you Sir!Quote:
Originally Posted by themzcman
That sounds like a pain in the *ss but I will give it a try.
Dave
My wife’s ’98 Accord (4 cyl) will no longer start but it has nothing to do with the temperature or weather. I’ve read through everything (including the FAQ) but I can’t seem to find a similar situation.
I took the car out on Saturday and it started very hard and ran extremely rough / choppy for a few seconds. I gave it some gas and everything smoothed out. I drove it for a bit and made a few stops and it started up normally each time. Monday morning, the car wouldn’t start. It’s now Wednesday and, after multiple attempts, it still won’t start. When I turn the key, it cranks so it’s not the starter or battery but it never seems to make an attempt to actually start running.
The fuel pump starts up and the relay clicks, all the fuses are good, and no error codes are being reported. I also replaced the spark plugs and checked them for spark. I don’t see any leaks or cracks anywhere in the distributor or anything else related. Any suggestions?
. Plywood20, running through the tests in Sections A and B below should help you pinpoint the problem:
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html
. Be sure to use a test light or multimeter to check all under-dash and under-hood fuses. Here's how:
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145
. Run the K-Test on the ECM.
. Check for spark.
If you still cannot locate the problem, focus on the distributor. They go frequently--the problem could be unserviceable internal sensors (CKP, CYL, and TDC) or a bad ICM or coil. ICMs and coils can be checked for free at AutoZone. If the internal distributor sensors are bad, you should install a new Honda distributor housing and reuse ICM and coil, if they test okay.
For some odd reason, the car is starting every time now. However, the first time it started up, it was extremely rough / on the verge of stalling and the garage was instantly filled with exhaust fumes. I haven't made it into the distributor but the MAP sensor was throwing around 3 volts - not normal but not excessively low. Should 3 volts at the MAP be a concern?
3 volts at the MAP Sensor is a very real concern. My bet is that your ECM is failing. It's intermittent, now, but soon is will likely completely die. I suggest you install a remanufactured ECM, with a lifetime warranty.
If you perform the K-Test at various times, you'll likely get varying results. Sometimes, it will be very low and the car won't start or run well; other times, it will be more normal. Eventually, it will be very low (.3 volts), stay there, and the car won't start. My advice is to replace it now on your terms.
NHTSA Campaign ID # 02V120000
Potentail units affected 1000000 honda accords
1998 accords electrical system: ignition switch. Recall date: 05/16/2002
Summary: on certain sedans,coupes, electrical contacts in the ignition swictch can degrade
Due to the high electrical current passing through the switch when the vehicle is started.
Consequence: worn contacts could cause the engine to stall without warning, increasing the risk of a crash.
Remedy: dealers will replace the ignition switch. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact honda at 800-999-1009
My wife drives a 96 Honda accord EX (6cyls) and we had this starting problem since early on , 2000 (?). I've tried replacing distributor cap and rotor, genuine Honda spark plug wires, spark plugs, had the fuel injector clean by mechanics. Problem still persisted, come and go.
When the problem comes, it is always after the car siting in the garage for a while or overnite. To start the car, I press the gas pedal half way and hold the key. I was able to start the car most of the time and lots of smoke came out. Once it's started, the car will be OK for a while. It would not stall for anytime during the day. No dealer or mechanic can figure out why. Oh, yeah, I had the car in them numerous times to no avail.
I've been using fuel injector cleaner (good and expensive ones) every other week. I've not had starting problem for a while, may be once every few months. And I was able to start it with the procedure I gave above every time. The car now has over 130,000 miles and still running well except this occasional starting problem.
Tim O'Neil,
I will definitely try your suggestion. I'll let you know how it turn out.
Me too! A buck 99 versus 150.00 is worth a shot.
I have a 1993 Honda Accord LX it also was running rough at low RPM's and just quit one day driving down the street. Checked it out and it had no spark would turn over easy but no spark. The problem was the Ignition Control Module. It cost $70.00 at Advance Auto Parts. It is an easy fix. Disconnect the battery cables. Remove air filter and air filter box so you have room to unscrew the three screws from the distributor to remove the distributor cap. One the distributor cap is removed take a flat screw driver and pry off the rotor from the shaft and remove the cover so you can get access to the inside of the distributor. You will see the Ignition Control Module there are two screws that hold it inside of the distributor the are located on the outside below the ICG Module unscrew the two screws and be careful not to strip them use a good phillips screw dirver and a lot of pressure on the screw as to not strip them. Once those two screws are unscrewed remove the four wires and be careful not to break the wires other wise you will have to sodder new wires. Once the wires are removed it will slide right out. Take and unscrew the two screws on the back of the ICG and remove the bracket you will need the bracket to install on the new ICG. Use the gel between the two medals so that it will not corrode later. Reinstall all parts in the reverse order that you removed them. This is a known problem and it will no doubt fix your starting problem. Easy fix only nine screws total.
I have a 98 Accord with 301,000. Mind you I too have been having this stalling problem. I can cruise around and all of sudden the engine dies and starts itself back up. I know within 10 or 15 miles I will completely stall. I have to crank and crank while driving and usually within 5 or 6 attempts it will startup. I have stalled at 75 mph and at 10mph, going straight down the highway or turning on a local street.
What I have noticed when I stall, is that if I hold the key forward and don't release the key the car stays started. I do hear a slight grind sound of the starter, but it is enough to get me out of harms way. 100% of the time holding the key keeps the car started, once I let go it stalls, and I do my 5 or 6 attempts. Also, if I run the car an 30 or 40 minutes and turn the car off and try to quickly start it back up it won't start up. I have to do my 5 or 6 attempts or wait 5 or 10 minutes. When I get gas, I always worry if it will start back up and that seems long enough for it to always start up.
Is this the fuel pump or the main relay or the ignition switch?
With the mileage on your car, I would replace the ignition switch and main relay.
Likewise, I have a 99 V6 Accord which had a stalling problem. It stalled inconsistently, in any weather conditions, freeway driving or stopped at a light, in a turn, etc. It was pretty scary sometimes because I live in Colorado. It did not seem to match any of the typical symptoms. For over a year I tried to figure it out and nobody could help. The ignition switch and EGR valve were already replaced. I tried a tune up, premium gas, and additives. Even the dealership said it was more likely a fuel issue. But after replacing the $50 EFI main relay my problem was SOLVED. No stalling for six months. Good luck, I hope this helps.
My honda accord don't want to start the batteye is good
I also had this nightmare of a problem!! For the past 10 months my 1998 Honda Accord(155450 miles) would completely shut off when I am driving. It would just die but what I did notice every time this happened, for some strange reason the clock would remain on?? I talked to a lot of people regarding this problem and I got a lot of possible problems from fuel pump, bad distributor, bad fuel injector relay, distributor module, you name it I was told to replace everything or check it. Well me being so stubborn I didn't take it to the mechanic I replaced everything myself , I have spent well over $450.00 trying to correct the problem. And notthing fixed the problem!! :mad: :mad: To make a long story short I came to this website and someone posted that same problems and fixed it by installing a new IGNITION SWITCH!! Guess what that done it!! I have put well over 500 miles on my car since and haven't had this problem come back. I went to Auto Zone and the part was $42.00. Very easy to install if you are handy with a screwdriver. This website helped me out with a lot of headaches, and saved me money because I was getting ready to install a new fuel pump and these can get pretty expensive. If there is someone out there with the same problem you can email me and I can guide you step by step with instructions on how to install the switch. Thank god for the internet!! :) [email protected]
I am having the same problem with my honda accord sir 98Quote:
Originally Posted by h20mobius
But now it won't start at all like no gas can get through, when was going id be going about 100kz but every now and then it would feel like it wanted to cut out
I would have thort the filter is blocked and not letting gas through
But took it to a michanic and he told me I do not have a filter?
Perform the tests, in Sections A and B, below:
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html
Honda Chick, every Honda I have ever seen has a fuel filter. I recommend you take it to Honda for servicing. Replacing the Ignition Control Module, coil, main relay, and fuel filter will likely solve the problem, providing the Check Engine Light comes on and goes off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II). If the car cranks but won't start, the odds are greater than 90% that the problem is electrical-related, not fuel.
Honda Chick
I own a 1998 Honda accord
Had this problem happen to me. Car would idle and stop. Mechanic could not find a problem but Noted when he checked the fuel pressure it was in the 40 something psi range. I read it suppose to be 50 -55 range so I took a chance and changed the fuel regulator myself and it solved my problem. It holds the fuel back pressure on your system. Heard the Honda fuel pumps are pretty reliable so went with the regulator.
Same problem. I will not be purchasing a Honda product again. Poor service.
95% of the time Hondas that don't start in hot and humid weather is the result of the deteriorated solder welds on the FUEL MAIN RELAY. I've had this happen on not only my Acura but my girlfriends Accord. She was told her rims were too hot by the original owner. Ridiculous! Actually, it's an easy fix. I picked up 2 cheap on eBay. It took 5 minutes. To replace under the left side of dash... under the coin drawer. Both cars start every time now regardless of the temperature. If you can't replace the relay yet, you must make it cool off. Parking in the shade helps. Opening the doors for 10-20mins may be your only other option. Hope this helps!
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