Mmk, so, brilliance has found its way into my mechanical skills once again! Lol when I marked the rotor position, I apparently used a marker that is wiped away easily. So now my positioning is lost, but, I think I have the right idea on this I think, from things I've read.

To set the timing right, I can pull out the #1 spark plug, and see down to the #1 piston. Would I be able to turn the engine myself and get the piston in the highest position then point the rotor towards the contact in my distributor cap for the #1 spark plug wire?

I wasn't sure how to phrase this for Google to give me a good answer lol.

No, you don't need to do that or go that direction at all. Just replace the distributor and center the top mounting bolt in the slot and you should be able to get it starter with little trouble. You can set the timing very close by ear--you can tell how it sounds, runs, and performs. Later, you can get an induction timing light and set it spot on.

Well, I have spun the rotor accidentally when working on it on my desk, wouldn't that cause problems even starting the car? Once started I know how to adjust (thanks to one of your many amazing guides) but I thought it would have trouble.

Makes no difference, since, because of the brilliant offset shaft, it cannot be installed incorrectly. You're safe!

You'll see this in action, when you install the distributor. Then, you'll have to rotate the rotor, until the offset shaft on the distributor mates with the offset shaft on the camshaft.

Amazing! Love import cars! I'm finding all of these cool little things on imports, I used to be a chevy dude :) oh how I'm in love with my honda haha.

I love my Civic. However, I've never met a car or truck that I didn't love. Here's a little tid bit for you. Besides my 1993 Civic I own a 2000 Taurus with the 3.0L DOHC engine. The Taurus is really a fully-loaded Civic. Many engineering features are similar. In fact, when they are next to each other in the garage, their shapes are so similar it's scary. One is white the other is British Racing Green.

Okay, so I am having to wait until Friday to buy my new ICM but I've been reading everything I can get my hands on about this car. So you told me about how to get my timing close, but I was reading your guide and I think I can get my hands on a timing light pretty easily. Thing is, at the end of your guide you only have the d16z6 listed, would my d16y8 be the same steps?

I don't know how many degrees BTDC your car should be set at. It's also important to set the idle rpm first, when the engine is at normal operating temperature. There also is not a Service Check Connector to jump. You need to find out those specs.

Okay. I'm just a little fuzzy on a few details here. When I reinstall my distributor how accurate will the timing be? And upon installation and setting idle speed would that be good enough? And I don't understand what you meant by adjusting the timing by ear.

Through experience, I can set the timing on my Civic by ear. In fact, where the timing is now is slightly retarded from where the timing light set it. I did this because it runs better, particularly with the air conditioner on in the hot Texas summers.

Once you install your distributor, with the three mounting bolts in place, you will be able to rotate it counter-clockwise and clockwise to advance or retard the timing. You will know when it's about right, particularly when you drive it. If need be, through trial and error, you will find where it runs best; then, take a straight-edge and a scribe and mark a horizontal line on the distributor housing and mount.

Do you have a manual transmission?

Great description, that's what I thought but I had a mechanic give me some ridiculous explanation. Okay, and I live in Texas as well lol, so a slight retardation in the timing might be in line with spring approaching?

And no my car is automatic unfortunately. I am craving so bad to do a 5 speed swap but there are financial constraints :) soon enough though, soon enough :)

In my opinion, you want to keep your ATX. The ramifications on the ECM, wiring harness, lack of clutch, and more are horrific. Instead, I'd drain the tranny and add Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. It will only take several quarts and the performance will improve markedly.

That is such a bummer to hear :/ but I'll definitely do that. Any chance of a solid way to do a swap?

Nope. If you studied the histories of people on this site who have tried engine and tranny swaps, you would leave well-enough alone. There's a lot more to it than most people realize.

If you follow the maintenance recommendations I gave you, your Civic should go 350,000 miles.

What outfit are you going to buy your igniter from? I ask because this link may save you a little money:

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b5...g?t=1263325595

I was going to go with autozone, but I'll check with advanced auto parts and see what their prices are.

Shop for price and lifetime warranty. They will match each other's price.

Ok got my ICM and I was putting things back together when I may have run into a snag. The screws that connect the heatsink to the igniter seem to thread and fit fine on the heatsink portion but when they travel through the igniter holes they are much too small, and I don't think I see threads at all. Is this right? Because basical the screws hold it in place but the heatsink is just sitting right on the igniter. I know this is a must in computers, but most people don't shake their computers when they are running :) just wanted to double check.