Victory is within sight.. . Full speed ahead!

Bingo, there is no continuity at the switch, thus not giving power to the ECM which is why I was not getting a reading at all with the MAP Sensor! Also the main relay is not clicking because there is no power to that either. It would be awesome if this was the answer as to why my low beams on my civic don't work either rather then the switch. The really crappy thing is, I have no money for the ignition switch that I can spare :-/

The article shows how you can repair them.

At work on Wednesday I will have the electricians resolder all the connections to get it running like new :-D

Hopefully this will work and will allow me to be at school other then taking the trolly there and back everyday

Yes, that would be awesome. If there's pitting, see if they could use low temperature silver solder to repair it.

I'm sure you are removing the ignition switch today. How does it look?

davin, here's a posting on air conditioners I put together a few weeks ago. You might find it interesting and helpful, at some point:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...nce-32101.html

I have really enjoyed working with you and hope things settle down for you now.

NOTHING!!

I borrowed some money from some people at work and have to pay them back. I went to a junk yard and bought a pretty decent ignition switch that looks pretty good when I opened it and when I rewired it, connected the battery and everything, the engine light was on and no clicking!!

I have no ideas left, this is probably something so stupid that I am probably not going to forgive myself like if I accidentally kicked a cord from under the dash and knocked it loose or something. I really don't know, I have tried everything. What the hell was it when I installed a new dizzy and it started right up. It has to be something. I now have a farmers tan from getting this car running... I am at a total loss!

Was the ECM from your buddy's Civic that you tried the exact one for your car? Your car is a 1992 Civic DX, with what engine? Is it the D15B7 engine?

No, his was a P06-L50. I went on Honda-Tech and they said that as long as it is a P06 automatic, that is will be good to go.

What Honda Part No. was on the original ECM in your Civic?

Inspection of main relay and relay harness:

Disconnect the main relay connector. Check for continuity between BLK terminal 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? NO--repair open in BLK wire between main relay and ground located at thermostat housing. YES--measure the voltage between YEL/WHT terminal 1 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? NO--replace ECM (15A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box; repair open in the YEL/WHT wire between the main relay and the ECM 15A fuse.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

What Honda Part No. was on the original ECM in your Civic?

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P06-A51

After you run the main relay harness tests, I'm pretty much out of ideas. My only thoughts are if you verify power is getting to terminal 1, on the main relay connector, then I would call your local Honda parts department and see if anything other than a 37820-P06-A51 will really work.

Here's a pretty good overview:

http://techauto.te.funpic.org/index.php?content=ECU

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

repair open in the YEL/WHT wire between the main relay and the ECM 15A fuse.

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It seems like your problem is along these lines, if you have total confidence in your ECM.

Here's another simple test on the main relay harness:

. Turn ignition switch ON and measure the voltage between BLK/YEL terminal 5 and body ground.
. Is there battery voltage? NO--Replace ACG (ALT)(S) (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box or repair open in the BLK/YEL wire between the main relay and the ACG (ALT)(S) (15 A)fuse.

Darvin, if you read voltage, probably around 12.5 v. then your first relay should click. If the previous test showed voltage at terminal 1, then the second relay should also work and click (if ECM and wiring is good).

Another test is to install a jumper wire on the number 5 and 7 terminals of the main relay connector and turn the ignition key ON--you should hear the fuel pump run.

If all of these tests are OK, then I think we are back to the ECM or an open between the main relay and the ECM.

Terminal 8 is a computer-controlled "grounding terminal" to the second relay. If the ECM is bad, or the wiring harness to the ECM has an open, the second relay won't ground and click, the Check Engine Light will stay on, the fuel injectors won't receive power, and the fuel pump won't run.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Here's another simple test on the main relay harness:

. Turn ignition switch ON and measure the voltage between BLK/YEL terminal 5 and body ground.
. Is there battery voltage? NO--Replace ACG (ALT)(S) (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box or repair open in the BLK/YEL wire between the main relay and the ACG (ALT)(S) (15 A)fuse.

darvin, if you read voltage, probably around 12.5 v., then your first relay should click. If the previous test showed voltage at terminal 1, then the second relay should also work and click (if ECM and wiring is good).

Another test is to install a jumper wire on the number 5 and 7 terminals of the main relay connector and turn the ignition key ON--you should hear the fuel pump run.

If all of these tests are OK, then I think we are back to the ECM or an open between the main relay and the ECM.

Terminal 8 is the "grounding terminal" to the second relay, which is controlled by the ECM. If the ECM is bad, or the wiring harness to the ECM has an open, the second relay won't click, the Check Engine Light will stay on, the fuel pump won't run, and the engine won't spark.

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Black/yellow and body ground register at a steady 0.014v DC

Now on other articles it states that their CEL, oil & battery stay on. However, it is only my oil and CEL that are lit and not my battery. I think there is something problematic with that possibly. I will research a little more...

Did you have ignition ON, when you registered a steady .014 DCV? If you did, then there's your problem. You should record around 12.5 DCV. That's why your first relay won't click and everything shuts down. Check the ACG (ALT) (S) (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and check for an open in the BLK/YEL wire between the main relay and the ACG (ALT) (S) (15 A) fuse.

ACG (S) stands for Alternator, Cruise control, Gauges, and SRS unit (VB) fuse.

You might have missed this fuse because, on my 1993 Civic DX, it's located to the very top right of the under-dash fuse box and next to the SRS fuse, which has an open yellow cover on it.

The flow on this circuit appears to be from the under-hood (50 A) fuse, to the ignition switch, to the under-dash fuse/relay box fuse no. 12 or 24 (15 A), to the main relay. Your problem lies along this path.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Did you have ignition ON, when you registered a steady .014 DCV? If you did, then there's your problem. You should record around 12.5 DCV. That's why your first relay won't click and everything shuts down. Check the ACG (ALT) (S) (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and check for an open in the BLK/YEL wire between the main relay and the ACG (ALT) (S) (15 A) fuse.

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So I need to look at the alternator fuse, fuse #15, if I cannot find a break in the wire? Also I was thinking of checking continuity of the dizzy, would this be the white wire?

I don't think you need to worry about the distributor for this problem. It's not fuse #15, but a 15 amp fuse that goes to the alternator and ECM. It should be marked on the under-dash fuse box cover. Should be fuse no. 12 (without SRS) and fuse no. 24 (with SRS).

I normally turn ignition ON, set DMM to DCV, and touch leads to test points on top of fuse. If I disconnect the battery, I set my DMM on audible ohms and check all under-hood and under-dash fuses in a couple on minutes.