9. Radiator and Heater Hose Replacement

Replace radiator and heater hoses every 4 to 7 years. Ruptured hoses are a prime cause of aluminum block engines overheating, often resulting in warped heads, blown head gaskets, and damaged valves.

1. Drain coolant.

2. Remove hose clamp. Vise grips or standard hose clamp pliers work best. Don't waste your money buying spring-loaded hose clamp pliers (i.e. those with a cable)--the head is too large, in practice, to be any good. They look like they'd be great for getting into tight places; however, they are virtually useless.

3. Twist hose and see if it will come loose. If not, take a knife and cut the hose laterally along the nipple.

4. TRICK: Lightly coat the nipple with radiator hose grease (AutoZone), silicone grease, or white lithium grease. This prevents corrosion, allows easier positioning of hoses, and makes it much easier to remove hoses next time.

5. Install new hoses, clamps, and refill with coolant, following the manufacturer's procedure to eliminate air from the system.

6. Start engine, allowing it to reach normal operating temperature, and check for leaks.

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8. How-to Replace Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly on a 1996 thru 2001 Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable

The following procedure is for a Ford Taurus (VIN S), with rear drum brakes and ABS. Wheel bearing noise typically develops around 100,000 miles.


1. Loosen wheel lug nuts, raise rear of vehicle, and support securely on jack stands. Block front wheels and remove rear wheels.

2. Remove brake drum (parking brake must be off).

3. Remove grease cap from hub.

4. Remove and discard hub retaining nut (36 mm). This is a compound nut, comprised of several nuts inside a metal cage. Use a 36 mm axle nut socket (e.g. OEM 25206). Many auto parts stores will lend you this socket. A 1/2-inch drive air impact wrench or breaker bar is necessary to remove the nut.

5. Remove wheel bearing/hub assembly from spindle.

6. Install new Timken Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly, for Drum Brakes and ABS (Part No. 512162). Tighten new axle spindle nut (Dorman 05114) 221 lb.-ft. replace grease cap, and button everything up.


The procedure above is similar to that used on many FWD vehicles. Obviously, sizes and torque specs will differ and some nuts may require "staking" or cotter pin replacement.

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13. How-to Stop Vacuum Hose Leaks

Heat and ozone cause hoses to deteriorate and leak, over time. Once a vacuum hose is disturbed, particularly on older vehicles, it's prone to leak. This is particularly true on air conditioner vacuum hoses, which control diaphrams going to blender doors, where even small leaks can be disastrous.

Here's a possible solution to air vents not working properly. Separate the vacuum lines and carefully service the connections with silicone grease. This will help to recondition and restore the seal. Obviously, you must use common sense and not apply too much and plug openings.

An excellent product to use in this situation is Motorcraft Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (XG-3-A). It's available at your local Ford or Lincoln/Mercury dealer. It's amazing the number of other applications this product can be used for; e.g. lubricating O-rings, rubber gaskets, disk brake caliper pins, radiator and heater hoses, plus using it as a dielectric compound for weatherizing battery and starter terminals and cables, main grounds, main ECM ground, ECM connectors, coils, spark plug connections, coating spark plug porcelein, and tail and brake lights. This product also helps prevent wet starting problems in seemingly small, but significant, ways. I mention these other applications, so you won't feel like you are spending money on a product with limited use. Attention to detail makes a big difference when dealing with vacuum hoses. Frequently, it's the difference between a system working or not working.

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25. After Clearing Codes, How Many Miles Do You Need To Drive Before You Can Have The Car Inspected?


It's not an issue of miles--it's a function of drive cycles. Some drive cycles require a cold start, warm up, and a certain number of miles at a certain speed. So, there's no set answer. It depends on the year, make, and model of the car, along with the specific trouble code.

After a code is erased, the computer "monitors" conditions, until the drive cycle has been completed. Then, it "resets" the monitors, making it okay for inspection. There's no way to manually reset the monitors.

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53. Clutch Pedal Maintenance

Here's a preventive maintenance step to restore silky-smooth clutch action:

1. Remove cotter pin and clutch pivot pin.

2. Clean pin and hole of dirt and old grease.

3. Lubricate pin with synthetic grease with moly. Valvoline SynPower Grease and Amsoil Synthetic Heavy-Duty Grease NLGI #2 (GHD) are excellent choices.

4. Install pivot pin, along with a new cotter pin.

You'll appreciate the "like-new" smooth action.

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10. How-to Replace Front Sway Bar Bushings on Ford Tauruses and Mercury Sables


1. Measure the diameter of the sway bar with a Vernier caliper. It needs to be exact; e.g. 13/16" or 20.5 mm. Sway bars come in many different diameters. If you don't have a Vernier caliper, use a strip of paper to carefully determine the sway bar's circumference. Then, use the formula Diameter = Circumference/3.1416.

2. Purchase a set of Energy Suspension Polyurethane Sway Bar Bushings. I selected 9.5107R (non-greasable) for my 2000 Taurus, with a 20.5 mm diameter sway bar.

3. Place car on jack stands, located under the rocker panels. Remove both front wheels.

4. Place a floor jack under each side of the subframe.

5. Disconnect both sway bar links from the sway bar (Very important). If you don't, the old U-brackets will bind on the mounting bolts.

6. Lower the subframe 1 inch, by losening the rear 18 mm bolts.

7. Remove 13 mm bolts (4) mounting the U-bracket to the subframe.

8. Pull the sway bar out enough and use an air cut-off wheel to cut through the old U-brackets and bushings length-wise. They are incredibly tough--don't waste your time trying to use an air chisel. Then, pry off the old brackets.

9. Clean sway bar with brake cleaner and grease the mounting area with silicone grease (with Teflon) that comes with the bushings.

10. Coat inside of each bushing with silicone grease, spread the bushing (slit facing forward), and place over the sway bar.

11. Place new U-bracket over each bushing, install spacers under the front portion of the U-bracket, and tighten 13 mm mounting bolts (4) 25 lb.-ft.

12. Raise subframe with the floor jacks. Tighten subframe bolts 66 lb.-ft.

13. Attach lower portion of sway bar link to the sway bar. Tighten sway bar link nut (18 mm) 40 lb.-ft.

14. Mount front wheels and tighten lug nuts 90 lb.-ft.

15. Lower car and test drive. Handling should be dramatically better and quieter.

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3. Black Smoke

1. If a diesel smokes, under any conditions other than full throttle or high load, something is wrong. Generally, too much fuel is being injected. At idle, or normal operating conditions found in the midwest of the U.S. and Canada, diesels shouldn't smoke.

2. Check engine oil level--ensure it's filled to the top line and that the oil and filter have been recently changed. Since this often affects fuel pressure (Ford), begin by ensuring it's properly filled.

3. Black smoke is usually a signal that there's too much fuel, not enough air, or injector pump timing is off. One of the most common causes is an air inlet restriction. The cause may be a dirty air filter, a collapsed intake hose, or an exhaust restriction.

4. Check air filter--ensure it has been changed recently (every 5,000 miles).

5. Check fuel injectors. Leaking injectors create an overly rich air/fuel mixture and cause black smoke. Take the valve cover off and look at the exhaust part of the injector, when it is running. Each time the injector fires, you should see oil exhausting from it. If you see oil coming out, then the injector is good. When replacing a bad injector, take the glow plug out and crank the engine to get any oil out of the cylinder. If you don't, you could hydro-lock and bend a rod.

6. Check turbo for carbon build-up and bent turbine blades. This ties into exhaust restriction.

7. Purge fuel filter or fuel separator of water. Do this at least monthly--daily, if necessary. Water can be a big problem with diesels. Watch for and treat bio-organisms.

8. Look into a commercial diesel fuel additive, which is available at most large truck stops. Try and find one that is pure biodiesel, intended to be mixed in the tank at a B20 or less rate. Look for the words "naturally produced oil" or "biodiesel" on the side of the can listing ingredients. Properly mixed, it will reduce the amount of smoke an older, worn engine produces.

9. Once you isolate and fix the problem, use full-synthetic heavy duty diesel engine oil (HDDO). Installing a by-pass oil filter makes using top-quality synthetics very cost effective, when integrated with a used oil analysis (UOA) program. All engines run better on synthetics, particularly turbo diesels. Besides significantly improved engine life, turbo life, performance, and gas mileage, synthetics promote easier starting, by allowing increased cranking speed. This last factor is particularly important in cold weather. Synthetics are also easier on batteries and starter motors. Finally, many diesel engines smoke dramatically less with synthetics. Anyone who has a turbo diesel and doesn't use full-synthetic HDDO is asking for trouble.

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4. Cavitation, SCA and Diesel Engine Cooling Systems


The presence of a few tiny bubbles, some so small that you need a microscope to see them, can destroy a diesel engine. Cavitation is a problem that has plagued diesel engine owners for years, which is the formation and collapse of air bubbles on the outside of the cylinder walls during combustion. It does not apply to dry-liner engines. Repeatedly, these air bubbles implode against the liner's surface. It erodes the cylinder liner, ultimately penetrating the combustion chamber and ruining the engine.

Cavitation is aggravated by vibration of the cylinder liner. Movement of the piston causes the liner to vibrate at a high frequency. When the liner vibrates, bubbles are formed in water passages next to the liner. These bubbles then implode against the cylinder liner. The implosion of the bubbles ultimately forms pinholes in the liner.

Understanding Cavitation

In elastic media, such as air and in most solids, there's a continuous transition as a sound wave is transmitted. In non-elastic media, such as water and in most liquids, there's continuous transition, as long as the amplitude or "loudness" of the sound wave is relatively low. As amplitude increases, however, the magnitude of the negative pressure in the areas of rarefaction (pockets of low pressure) becomes sufficient to cause the liquid to fracture, causing cavitation.

Cavitation bubbles are created at sites of low pressure, as the liquid fractures or tears, because of the negative pressure of sound waves in the liquid. As wave fronts pass, cavitation bubbles oscillate under the influence of positive pressure, eventually growing to an unstable size. Finally, the violent collapse of the cavitation bubbles results in implosions, causing shock waves to be radiated from the sites of the collapse. The collapse and implosion of many cavitation bubbles, throughout an ultrasonically activated liquid, results in an ultrasonic effect. Temperatures in excess of 10,000 degrees F. and pressures in excess of 10,000 psi, are generated as cavitation bubbles implode.

Effects on Engine

Air enters the system through leaks or through a faulty radiator cap. Leaks reduce cooling system pressure and increase the potential for bubbles to form in the coolant. These bubbles will eventually increase pitting. Water pump impellers and housings can be victims of cavitation, caused by low system pressure or by air trapped in the system. Cavitation can also damage radiators and heater cores.

Preventing Cavitation

Since cavitation cannot be completely prevented, Supplemental Coolant Additives (SCAs) are necessary to provide a continuous protective coating on the metal surfaces of the cooling system. This coating aides in controlling and limiting engine damage.

The most important way to control cavitation damage is to keep the cooling system clean by periodically flushing it. Using distilled water, combined with flushing agents, will scrub the system of impurities, scale, or other build-up, allowing for a "second chance" when refilling with a 50/50 mixture of auto maker approved antifreeze and distilled water.

When servicing the cooling system, always check for leaks or faulty pressure caps. These conditions can cause air leaks, reduce operating pressure, and allow bubbles to form.

Add 8 to 10 ounces of SCA every 15,000 miles, testing it with Fleetguard strips every other month. Completely drain and refill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of approved antifreeze and distilled water every 30,000 miles. Be sure to remove the hex-head drain plugs, located on each side of the engine block, after disconnecting the negative battery cable. This is a must on diesel engines. Cavitation must be taken very seriously.

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14. How-to Remove and Install a Transmission Range Sensor (TRS)

The Neutral Safety Switch is part of the TRS.


Removal:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Place gear selector in Neutral (N).
3. Remove air cleaner and air cleaner outlet tube, if necessary.
4. Disconnect TRS electrical connector.
5. Remove manual control lever from transaxle.
6. Remove TRS retaining bolts (2).
7. Remove TRS.

Installation:

1. Ensure gear selector is in Neutral (N).
2. Install TRS and loosely install both retaining bolts.
3. Align TRS slots using TRS Alignment Tool.
4. Tighten TRS retaining bolts 9 to 12 Nm (80 to 106 inch-lbs.) and remove tool.
5. Connect TRS electrical connector.
6. Install transaxle manual control lever--tighten 11 to 16 Nm (98 to 141 inch-lbs.).
7. Install air cleaner outlet tube and air cleaner.
8. Connect negative battery cable.
9. Check for proper operation with parking brake on. The engine should start only in Park (P) or Neutral (N).

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2. Diesel Smoke Summary: Black, White, and Blue


Exhaust gases from a diesel engine should be colorless. Smoke of any color is a clue that it's not running properly. Here's what exhaust smoke tells you:

• Black smoke is a sign of engine overload, restricted air supply, or malfunctioning injector. For some reason, excess unburned fuel is being blown out the exhaust. Black smoke is usually a signal that there's too much fuel, not enough air, or injector pump timing is off. One of the most common causes of this condition is an air inlet restriction. The cause may be a dirty air filter, a collapsed intake hose, or an exhaust restriction.

Installing a power chip can cause engine overload (boost gauge maxing out), black smoke, and engine shut down. I usually recommend using the standard OEM chip. On a diesel engine, injecting more fuel will result in more power--up to a certain point. This is almost opposite of a gasoline engine, where adding fuel and richening the mixture excessively will kill performance and lower power. A diesel engine is totally different. As you add more fuel and richen the mixture, power output will continue to climb, until the point that there is so much fuel that much of it is unburned (or partially burned black smoke) and then the power increase will taper off. Before the power increase drops off dramatically, however, you'll be facing another limiting factor--exhaust gas temperature (EGT). Adding more fuel makes more power, but it also raises EGT. If you add too much fuel and exhaust gas temperatures get too hot, then you can seriously damage your engine. Hence, an important reason to only use full synthetic HDDO. Full synthetic HDDOs also help control or eliminate black smoke, in many situations, by allowing the engine to run much more efficiently, even when overloaded.

• White smoke is a sign of water vapor or fuel that has been atomized, but not burned. Water vapor may be present in the fuel, or water may be leaking into the cylinders from the cooling system. Also, air in the fuel can cause white smoke. White smoke usually occurs when there is not enough heat to burn the fuel. The unburned fuel particles go out the tailpipe and typically produce a rich fuel smell. It's not unusual to see white smoke in the exhaust, during cold weather, until the engine warms up. Bad glow plugs (burned out, coated with carbon, or not receiving proper start-up voltage) or a faulty glow plug control module can cause white smoke on engine start up. Low engine cranking speed may also produce white smoke. If white smoke is visible after the engine has warmed up, the engine may have one or more bad injectors, retarded injection timing, or worn injection pump. Low compression can also be a source of white smoke.

• Blue smoke forms when the engine's lubricating oil is being burned, indicating worn piston rings, valve guides, or seals. Also, the oil can come from an air filter overfilled with oil or an overfilled crankcase.

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5. Diesel Fuel and Cold Weather


Wax, naturally found in diesel fuel, begins to form crystals, as the temperature drops. The cloud point is the point at which crystals form. Eventually, crystals clog the fuel filter and starve the engine of fuel or prevent it from starting.

Traditionally, one solution is to use #1 diesel fuel, which is diesel fuel diluted with kerosene. There are several disadvantages with using #1 diesel fuel, despite its advantage in low-temperature operations. First, the energy content is about 95% of #2 diesel fuel, resulting in less horsepower and reduced fuel economy. Second, the kerosene used in #1 diesel fuel provides less lubrication for the fuel distributor and fuel pump, increasing the likelihood for wear.

There are products on the market, such as Amsoil Diesel Recovery, that dissolve the wax crystals that form when diesel fuel has surpassed its cloud point. It will liquefy gelled diesel fuel and thaw frozen fuel filters. Since diesel fuel quality varies wildly from one filling station to another, low-quality fuel can have cloud points as high as 40 degrees F.

Check these type of products out. They can reduce the cold filter-plugging point (CFPP) by up to 34 degrees F, in ultra-low-sulfur diesel fuel (ULSD), and up to 17 degrees F, in biodiesel. They also lower the fuel's pour point. Emergency diesel fuel treatments may help you avoid a costly towing charge.

Steps to improve cold weather diesel starting:

1. Use the appropriate winter viscosity of full synthetic HDDO for your vehicle.

2. Add Amsoil Diesel Concentrate Plus Cold Flow Improver (DFC) to diesel fuel in the winter, prior to crystal formation. Use this product throughout the winter months, starting at 40 degrees F.

3. Add Amsoil Diesel Recovery Emergency Fuel Treatment (DRC) to diesel fuel, after crystal formation.

4. Install a engine block heater for temperatures below -25 degrees F.

5. Ensure both batteries are fully charged and the battery terminals and cable connections are clean. Apply dielectric grease.

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12. How-to Perform Electronic Air Temperature Control (EATC) On-Board Diagnostic Tests on Many Fords and Mercurys


NOTE: Intermittent (run time) trouble codes will be deleted after 80 ignition cycles.


The Remote Climate Control (RCC) module is capable of displaying both self-test faults and intermittent (run time) faults on the Integrated Control Panel (ICP). To obtain these codes, perform the following EATC on-board diagnostics test:

. On-board diagnostics should be run in ambient temperatures between 50 and 90 degrees F. Record all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) displayed during diagnostic test mode.

. Turn ignition switch to RUN position.

. Push both OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously; then, press AUTO within two seconds.

. The test may run as long as 30 seconds, while the display will show a dashed line in the center of the display window.

. After about 20 seconds, a DTC will appear in the display. The self-test is completed when 888 appears in the center of the climate control display window of the ICP.

. To exit the self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, press the "-" (cooler) side of the TEMP button. The RCC module will exit the self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs.

. Always exit the self-test, before powering the system down (system turned off).

. Refer to a DTC Index for additional help. Here are several common self-test faults:

024--A/C Electronic Blend Door Actuator Failure
030--In-Car Temperature Sensor Short
031--In-Car Temperature Sensor Open
040--Ambient Temperature Sensor Short
041--Ambient Temperature Sensor Open
050--Sunload Sensor Short

. Some heating and air conditioning control problems are solved just by running the self-test.

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26. Engine Misfires


Most common engine misfires can be solved by:

1. Replacing platinum spark plugs with the exact ones (same brand and part no.) that came in the vehicle and ensuring they are properly gapped. If the vehicle came with single platinum plugs, changing them to double or quadruple platinum plugs can cause misfires, particularly if the gap is different. Therefore, I recommend using single platinum plugs and changing them every 50,000 miles. On FWD V-6 engines, be sure to change the rear plugs, despite the hassle.

2. Applying dielectric grease to the spark plug's porcelein and electrode.

3. Changing coils and coil packs, if changing spark plugs did not solve the problem. Bench testing coils is not reliable, since most break down under load (heat). Therefore, be sure to change coils and coil packs every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. Apply dielectric grease to terminals.

4. Replacing Ignition Control Module (ICM). These problematic components should be replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. Bench testing ICMs is not reliable, since most break down under load.

5. Ensuring coil-on-plugs are squarely centered on the plug's electrode.

6. Changing spark plug wires every 80,000 miles. Regularly, wipe down plug wires with silicone spray, being very careful to keep it away from oxygen sensors.

7. Checking for intermittent codes that did not trigger the Check Engine Light.

8. Checking engine compression and looking for intake manifold leaks, in extreme cases.

9. The link below, provided by kitch428, covers a number of advanced techniques for diagnosing engine misfires:

Determining the missing elements in misfires - Misfires occur when the combustion process is incomplete, so you need to find what's missing. - Motor Age - Automotive training, certification & parts

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30. Toyoto to Begin Requiring 0W-20 Synthetic Engine Oil

Driven by increasingly stringent emission and fuel economy standards, Toyota has informed its dealers that the company will begin requiring SAE 0W-20 synthetic engine oils in new Toyota, Scion and Lexus vehicles over the next several years. Other OEMs are expected to follow suit by 2011. Among the benefits cited by Toyota are enhanced protection at high and low temperatures, improved fuel economy and reduced engine deposits. In addition, Toyota is reportedly studying increasing oil drain interval recommendations to 10,000 miles.

15. How-to Change Front and Rear Bulbs on a 2000 and Later Ford Taurus


Front:

1. Remove mounting bolt near the front grille (8 mm).

2. Pry up both retaining slides (look for two rubber-coated tabs), located on the rear of the headlight housing, with a screwdriver.

3. Pull the housing outward, disconnect the electrical connector from the headlamp bulb, and remove the housing from the vehicle.

4. Remove and replace the headlamp (Sylvania 9007) and amber turning signal (Sylvania 3357), after cleaning the connectors with WD-40.

5. Button things up.

6. Adjust headlamps with the vehicle parked level, gas tank half full, and nothing in the trunk.


Rear:

7. Remove parcel restraining web and tie-down, pull back trunk liner, and remove five nuts (11 mm) securing the tail light cover with a nut driver.

8. Remove and clean tail light cover.

9. Remove old bulbs--back-up light (Sylvania 921) and tail light (Sylvania 3057). Spray and clean connectors with WD-40.

10. Snap-in new bulbs, replace cover, and button things up.


Don't touch bulbs with your fingers because the oil from your skin could cause it to overheat and fail prematurely. This is particularly true of headlamp bulbs.

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16. FordParts.Com

Enter your 17-character VIN and verify the part number you need:

Motorcraft

Great site to research Ford automotive products.

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54. Windshield Wiper Motor Replacement

1. Open hood, remove cap nuts, and carefully remove wiper arms.

2. Remove hood seal and air scoop, by prying out trim clips.

3. Disconnect 5-P connector from windshield motor and remove wiper harness from wiper linkage.

4. Remove wiper linkage assembly, by removing three mounting bolts.

5. Remove three mounting bolts and one nut from the wiper linkage, to remove wiper motor.

6. Install wiper motor in reverse order of removal.

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56. Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement


1. Loosen wheel nuts slightly.

2. Raise rear of car and support securely on jack stands placed under the rocker panel.

3. Remove wheel nuts and rear wheel.

4. Pull the parking brake lever up.

5. Remove hub cap, raise locking tab on spindle nut, and remove spindle nut (32 mm socket) with a breaker bar or impact wrench.

6. Release parking brake and remove drum. If you have disc brakes, remove the caliper shield and brake hose mounting bolt. Remove caliper, suspending it to one side on a wire; remove caliper bracket mounting bolts and caliper bracket; and remove brake disc.

7. Remove and install new hub unit. Button everything up, apply parking brake, and tighten a new spindle nut to specification. Civic spindle nuts are often tightened 134 lb.-ft. (18.5 kg-m). Stake the spindle nut shoulder against the spindle with a ball pein hammer and chisel.


Bearing life, to a large extent, is a function of preloading the bearing properly and ensuring the seal keeps water and contaminants out. Preload represents a tight bearing setting, whereas endplay represents a loose setting. Therefore, use good technique, a new spindle nut, and an accurate torque wrench when tightening spindle nuts. When you store a "click" type torque wrench, set it to zero.

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32. Brake Booster Test

Functional Test:

1. With engine off, depress brake pedal several times; then, depress the pedal hard and hold that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, the master cylinder, brake line, or brake caliper is bad.

2. Start engine with pedal depressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is working. If the pedal height does not vary, the booster or check valve is faulty.

Leak Test:

1. Depress the brake pedal with the engine running, then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary, while depressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum booster is fine. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty.

2. With the engine off, depress the brake pedal several times using normal pressure. When the pedal is first depressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, pedal height should gradually rise. If the pedal position does not vary, check the booster check valve.

Check Valve Test:

1. Disconnect brake booster vacuum hose at booster.

2. Start engine and let it idle. Vacuum should be available--if not, the check valve is not working correctly. Replace the check valve and retest.

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60. Distributor Bearing Replacement

See the link below:

Guide to Distributor Bearing Replacement - TheZCR.com Forums

I regret that I did not do this, when the bearing in my Civic's distributor failed--it would have been a great project! If you suspect damage to any of the internal sensors (CKP, TDC, or CYP), then I would pass on this project. Red dust inside indicates the bushing is shot and the distributor housing needs to be replaced.

This link on using temperature differentials to mount bearings should help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post2527737

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6. Ford Diesel PSD Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)

P0107--Barometric pressure sensor circuit low input. Frequent Cause: PCM's internal barometric sensor.

P0108--Barometric pressure sensor circuit high input. Frequent Cause: PCM's internal barometric sensor.

P0112--Intake air temp. sensor circuit low input. Frequent Cause: Grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

P0113--Intake air temp. sensor circuit high input. Frequent Cause: Open circuit, biased sensor, PCM, short to 5v.

P0122--Accelerator pedal sensor circuit low input. Frequent Cause: Grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

P0123--Accelerator pedal sensor circuit high input. Frequent Cause: Open circuit, biased sensor, PCM, short to 5v.

P0197--Engine oil temp. sensor circuit low input. Frequent Cause: Grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

P0198--Engine oil temp. sensor circuit high input. Frequent Cause: Open circuit, biased sensor, PCM, short to 5v.

P0220--Throttle switch B circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Short/open circuit, switch failure, operator, PCM.

P0221--Throttle switch B circuit performance. Frequent Cause: Failed pedal assembly.

P0230--Fuel pump relay driver failure. Frequent Cause: Open FP relay, blown fuse, open/grounded circuit.

P0231--Fuel pump circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Fuse, relay, inertia switch, fuel pump, open/short circuit.

P0232--Fuel pump circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Relay failure, short circuit, pump failure.

P0236--Turbo boost sensor A circuit performance. Frequent Cause: Restricted inlet/exhaust/supply hose, missing hose.

P0237--Turbo boost sensor A circuit low input. Frequent Cause: Circuit open, short to ground, MAP sensor.

P0238--Turbo boost sensor A circuit low high. Frequent Cause: Circuit short to power, MAP sensor.

P0261--Injector circuit low. Frequent Cause: Cylinder 1 Harness short to ground.

P0262--Injector circuit high. Frequent Cause: Cylinder 1 Miswired connector or harness.

P0263--Cylinder 1 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

P0264--Injector circuit low Cylinder 2. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

P0265--Injector circuit high Cylinder 2. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

P0266--Cylinder 2 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

P0267--Injector circuit low Cylinder 3. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

P0268--Injector circuit high Cylinder 3. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

P0269--Cylinder 3 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

P0270--Injector circuit low Cylinder 4. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

P0271--Injector circuit high Cylinder 4. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

P0272--Cylinder 4 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

P0273--Injector circuit low Cylinder 5. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

P0274--Injector circuit high Cylinder 5. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

P0275--Cylinder 5 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

P0276--Injector circuit low Cylinder 6. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

P0277--Injector circuit high Cylinder 6. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

P0278--Cylinder 6 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

P0279--Injector circuit low Cylinder 7. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

P0280--Injector circuit high Cylinder 7. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

P0281--Cylinder 7 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

P0282--Injector circuit low Cylinder 8. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

P0283--Injector circuit high Cylinder 8. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

P0284--Cylinder 8 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

P0301--Fault cylinder 1 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

P0302--Fault cylinder 2 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

P0303--Fault cylinder 3 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

P0304--Fault cylinder 4 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

P0305--Fault cylinder 5 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

P0306--Fault cylinder 6 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

P0307--Fault cylinder 7 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

P0308--Fault cylinder 8 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

P0340--Camshaft position sensor ckt. Malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, sensor fault, short to power.

P0341--Camshaft position sensor ckt. Performance. Frequent Cause: Harness routing, charging circuit, sensor.

P0344--Camshaft position sensor ckt. Intermittent. Frequent Cause: Harness routing, charging ckt. sensor, int. ckt. improper gap.

P0380--Glow plug circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded ckt. solenoid open/shorted, failed PCM.

P0381--Glow plug indicator circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, lamp open, failed PCM.

P0460--Fuel level sensor circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/short circuit, cluster, tank unit, open case GND.

P0470--Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Biased sensor, open signal return.

P0471--Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit performance. Frequent Cause: Plugged, stuck or leaking hose.

P0472--Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit low input. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

P0473--Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit high input. Frequent Cause: Circuit shorted to 5v, biased sensor, PCM.

P0475--Exhaust pressure control valve malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded ckt. solenoid open/shorted, failed PCM.

P0476--Exhaust pressure control valve performance. Frequent Cause: Failed/stuck EPR control, EBP fault, EPR circuit.

P0478--Exhaust pressure control valve high input. Frequent Cause: Plugged sensor line, stuck butterfly, restricted exhaust.

P0500--Vehicle speed sensor malfunction. Frequent Cause: Sensor, circuit, PCM, PSOM, TR failure, low trans. Fluid.

P0503--Vehicle speed sensor noisy. Frequent Cause: Harness routing, sensor.

P0541--Manifold intake air heater... Frequent Cause: Open/short circuit.

P0542--Manifold intake air heater... Frequent Cause: Grounded circuit.

P0560--System voltage malfunction. Frequent Cause: Charging system problem/load, glow plugs still enabled.

P0562--System voltage low. Frequent Cause: Low sys. Voltage, charging sys. internal PCM failure.

P0563--System voltage high. Frequent Cause: High sys. voltage, charging sys. internal PCM failure.

P0565--Cruise "On" signal malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open or short circuit, switch failure, PCM failure or failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

P0566--Cruise "Off" signal malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open or short circuit, switch failure, PCM failure or failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

P0567--Cruise "Resume" signal malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open or short circuit, switch failure, PCM failure or failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

P0568--Cruise "Set" signal malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open or short circuit, switch failure, PCM failure or failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

P0569--Cruise "Coast" signal malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open or short circuit, switch failure, PCM failure or failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

P0571--Brake switch A circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Cruise control codes will be set on every switch test on vehicles not equipped with cruise control.

P0603--Internal control module KAM error. Frequent Cause: Open PCM pin, disconnect B+, faulty PCM.

P0605--Internal control module ROM error. Frequent Cause: Internal PCM failure.

P0606--PCM processor fault. Frequent Cause: Internal PCM failure.

P0640--Manifold intake air heater... Frequent Cause: Circuit open or shorted to ground.

P0670--Glow plug control circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, failed GPCM, failed PCM.

P0671--Glow plug #1 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

P0672--Glow plug #2 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

P0673--Glow plug #3 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

P0674--Glow plug #4 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

P0675--Glow plug #5 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

P0676--Glow plug #6 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

P0677--Glow plug #7 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

P0678--Glow plug #8 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

P0683--Glow plug diagnostic signal communication fault. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed GPCM, PCM.

P0703--Brake switch B circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/short circuit, switch, PCM, failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

P0704--Clutch switch input circuit malfunction; F650-F750 with Allison AT545: neutral switch. Frequent Cause: Open/short circuit, switch, PCM, failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

P0705--TR sensor circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Resistance in circuit, faulty sensor, PCM.

P0707--TR sensor circuit low input. Frequent Cause: Open in circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

P0708--TR sensor circuit high input. Frequent Cause: Open in circuit, biased sensor, PCM, short to power.

P0712--Trans. Fluid temp. sensor ckt. Low input. Frequent Cause: Short to ground, biased sensor, PCM.

P0713--Trans. Fluid temp. sensor ckt. High input. Frequent Cause: Open in circuit, biased sensor, PCM, short to power.

P0715--TSS sensor circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Short/open circuit, sensor, PCM.

P0717--TSS intermittent failure. Frequent Cause: Short/open circuit, sensor, PCM.

P0718--Noisy TSS. Frequent Cause: Erratic signal, sensor, intermittent circuit.

P0720--OSS sensor circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Short/open circuit, sensor, PCM.

P0721--Noisy OSS. Frequent Cause: Erratic signal, sensor, intermittent circuit.

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7. Ford Diesel PSD Diagnostic Trouble Codes (Continued)

P0722--OSS intermittent failure. Frequent Cause: Short/open circuit, sensor, PCM.

P0732--Gear 2 incorrect ratio. Frequent Cause: Mechanical/hydraulic failure, 4x4 switch failure.

P0733--Gear 3 incorrect ratio. Frequent Cause: Mechanical/hydraulic failure, 4x4 switch failure.

P0741--Torque converter clutch ckt. Performance. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, PCM.

P0743--Torque converter clutch system electrical. Frequent Cause: Faulty solenoid, circuit, PCM.

P0750--Shift solenoid A malfunction. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, PCM.

P0755--Shift solenoid B malfunction. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, PCM.

P0781--1-2 Shift malfunction. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, faulty clutch, PCM.

P0782--2-3 Shift malfunction. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, faulty clutch, PCM.

P0783--3-4 Shift malfunction. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, faulty clutch, PCM.

P1000--OBDII monitor status. Frequent Cause: OBDII monitors/drive cycle incomplete.

P1105--Dual alternator upper fault (monitor). Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, alternator failure, PCM.

P1106--Dual alternator lower fault (control). Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, alternator failure, PCM.

P1107--Dual alternator lower circuit malf. (control). Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, alternator failure, PCM.

P1108--Dual alternator BATT lamp ckt. Malf. Frequent Cause: Open/short circuit, lamp, fuse, PCM.

P1118--Manifold air temp sensor out of range low. Frequent Cause: Short to GND MAT circuit, MAT sensor.

P1119--Manifold air temp sensor out of range high. Frequent Cause: Open/short to PWR circuit, MAT sensor.

P1139--Water in fuel lamp circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: WIF lamp, circuit failure, fuse, PCM.

P1140--Water in fuel condition. Frequent Cause: Water in fuel, grounded circuit, shorted sensor, PCM.

P1184--Engine oil temp out of self test range. Frequent Cause: Engine too cold/hot, leaking thermostat, ckt. sensor.

P1209--ICP system fault. Frequent Cause: IPR valve stuck.

P1210--ICP above expected level. Frequent Cause: ICP sensor, open signal return.

P1211--ICP pressure above/below desired. Frequent Cause: IPR valve failed, stuck, or shorted to ground.

P1212--ICP voltage not at expected level. Frequent Cause: Biased sensor or ckt. open signal return, low oil in reservoir.

P1218--CID stuck high. Frequent Cause: CID circuit open, probably intermittent.

P1219--CID stuck low. Frequent Cause: CID circuit short to ground, probably intermittent.

P1247--Turbo boost pressure low. Frequent Cause: MAP hose, sensor, EBP sys, intake leaks, turbo.

P1248--Turbo boost pressure not detected. Frequent Cause: MAP hose, sensor, EBP sys, intake leaks, turbo.

P1249--Waste gate steady state failure. Frequent Cause: GND short, plugged hose/port, solenoid, actuator.

P1260--Electronic positive anti-theft system failure. Frequent Cause: Refer to appropriate workshop manual.

P1261 to P1268--High to low side short cyl. # 1-8. Frequent Cause: Short circuit, shorted injector, failed IDM.

P1271 to P1278--High to low side open cyl. # 1-8. Frequent Cause: Open circuit, open injector, failed IDM.

P1280--ICP circuit out of range low. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

P1281--ICP circuit out of range high. Frequent Cause: Circuit shorted to 5v, biased sensor, PCM.

P1282--Excessive ICP pressure. Frequent Cause: Faulty IPR regulator (sticking), IPR short to ground.

P1283--IPR circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, stuck IPR, loose connection.

P1284--ICP failure aborts KOER CCT test. Frequent Cause: See codes P1280, P1281, P1282, P1283, P1211.

P1291--High side # 1 (right) short to grd. Or B+. Frequent Cause: Short circuit, faulty IDM.

P1292--High side # 2 (left) short to grd. Or B+. Frequent Cause: Short circuit, faulty IDM.

P1293--High side open bank No. 1 (right). Frequent Cause: Open circuit, faulty IDM.

P1294--High side open bank No. 2 (left). Frequent Cause: Open circuit, faulty IDM.

P1295--Multiple faults on bank No. 1 (right). Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness, short to ground.

P1296--Multiple faults on bank No. 2 (left). Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness, short to ground.

P1297--High sides shorted together. Frequent Cause: Shorted wires, faulty IDM.

P1298--IDM failure. Frequent Cause: Internal IDM failure.

P1316--Injector circuit/IDM codes detected. Frequent Cause: Injector circuit failure/IDM codes detected.

P1391--Glow plug circuit low input, bank #1 (right). Frequent Cause: Open/short/miswired circuit, faulty relay, glow plugs.

P1393--Glow plug circuit low input, bank #2 (left). Frequent Cause: Open/short/miswired circuit, faulty relay, glow plugs.

P1395--Glow plug monitor fault, bank #1. Frequent Cause: One or more glow plugs failed or circuit fault.

P1396--Glow plug monitor fault, bank #2. Frequent Cause: One or more glow plugs failed or circuit fault.

P1397--System voltage out of self test range. Frequent Cause: Voltage too high or low for glow plug monitor test.

P1464--A/C on during KOER CCT test. Frequent Cause: Operator error, A/C circuit shorted to power.

P1501--Vehicle moved during testing. Frequent Cause: Operator error.

P1502--Invalid test APCM functioning. Frequent Cause: APCM active while KOER test is running.

P1531--Invalid test accelerator pedal movement. Frequent Cause: Accelerator moved during KOER on-demand or CCT test.

P1536--Parking brake applied fail. Frequent Cause: Circuit, switch, PCM, failed to activate switch KOER.

P1660--OCC signal high. Frequent Cause: High system voltage, internal PCM fault.

P1661--OCC signal low. Frequent Cause: Low system voltage, internal PCM fault.

P1662--IDM EN circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Open relay, blown fuse, open/grounded circuit.

P1663--FDCS circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, faulty IDM.

P1667--CID circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, faulty IDM.

P1668--PCM/IDM diag. communication error. Frequent Cause: Open/shorted EF or FDCS wire, open IDM grd.

P1670--EF signal not detected. Frequent Cause: Open/shorted EF circuit.

P1690--Waste gate failure. Frequent Cause: WGC circuit or solenoid, PCM.

P1702--TRS sensor intermittent circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Sensor, wiring, PCM, mechanical alignment.

P1704--Digital TRS failed to transition state. Frequent Cause: Sensor, wiring, PCM, mechanical alignment.

P1705--TR sensor out of self-test range. Frequent Cause: Operator error, circuit failure, faulty sensor, PCM.

P1711--TFT sensor out of self-test range. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty sensor, PCM.

P1713--TFT stuck in range low below 50F. Frequent Cause: Sensor, circuit, PCM.

P1714--Shift solenoid 1 inductive. Frequent Cause: Circuit, solenoid, PCM.

P1715--Shift solenoid 2 inductive. Frequent Cause: Circuit, solenoid, PCM.

P1718--TFT stuck in range high above 250F. Frequent Cause: Sensor, circuit, PCM.

P1728--Transmission slip error. Frequent Cause: Solenoid failure or mechanical failure.

P1729--4x4L low switch error. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty switch, PCM.

P1744--Converter not functioning. Frequent Cause: Converter solenoid/hydraulic/mechanical failure.

P1746--EPC solenoid open circuit. Frequent Cause: Open circuit, faulty solenoid, PCM.

P1747--EPC solenoid short circuit. Frequent Cause: Short circuit, faulty solenoid, PCM shorted to ground.

P1754--Coast clutch solenoid ckt. Malfunction. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, PCM.

P1760--EPC solenoid short intermittent. Frequent Cause: Switch not detected during self test, circuit, switch.

P1780--TCS circuit of out self-test range. Frequent Cause: Circuit, switch, PCM, failed to activate switch KOER.

P1781--4x4L circuit out of self-test range. Frequent Cause: Operator error, short to ground, PCM.

P1783--Transmission overtemperature condition. Frequent Cause: Internal trans. Failure, circuit failure, sensor, PCM.

P1902--Kickdown solenoid relay control circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Blown fuse, failed relay, open control circuit, faulty PCM, faulty wiring.

P1903--Kickdown solenoid circuit low voltage. Frequent Cause: Blown fuse, failed relay, open control circuit, faulty PCM.

P1904--Kickdown solenoid circuit high voltage. Frequent Cause: Blown fuse, failed relay, open control circuit, faulty PCM, open in ASMM (circuit #175).

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36. Locating Vacuum Leaks

Only perform the tests below with the car outdoors, with a working fire extinguisher at hand, and with the engine cold.

The sign of a vacuum leak is often that the engine stalls but will start right back up. If your scan tool indicates that the engine is trending rich, look for a vacuum leak, since a vacuum leak creates a lean condition which the ECM compensates for by enriching the mixture.

1. Start engine and listen for high pitch leak sounds.

2. Spray carburetor cleaner around intake manifold, base of injectors, PCV valve, vacuum hoses, and EGR valve. You have located the leak, when you hear the engine rpm increase or the engine stalls with the spray. It's safer to use a propane leak tester, which you can make yourself. Remove the nozzle to a propane torch and attach a two foot long piece of tubing.

3. Reset the ECM, once you locate and repair the leak. If gas mileage was negatively affected, it may take a while for internal monitors to normalize.

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37. Buying a Used Car or Truck


The check list below is not all-enclusive. If the engine and transmission are in good shape, everything else is, relatively, less significant.


1. Check the condition of the engine. Remove the oil filler cap and look inside. If the oil is oxidized or a gooey mess, walk away. Reach inside with your finger and rub it against the valve cover. If it's nice and clean, you likely have a well-maintained engine. Also, check the exhaust, while the engine is running, for any sign of smoke or gasoline smell. White smoke is prima facie evidence of a blown head gasket or cracked head. Blue smoke indicates oil is being burned. If the blue smoke appears only during acceleration, the valve seals or valve guides are shot. Continuous blue smoke is a sign the rings are shot. If in doubt about the engine, remove all of the spark plugs and check each cylinder's compression. Record the results for analysis. Ensure that the Check Engine Light does not stay on. Verify that the engine oil and filter were changed regularly; i.e. 3,000 miles or 3 months for conventional oil, 6,000 miles or 6 months for full synthetics. Is the engine smooth, powerful, and quiet?

2. Check the transmission. While the engine is hot, and in Park, remove the dipstick and see if the ATF comes to the top of the FULL mark. The fluid should be pink and not have a burnt smell. Ensure the transmission upshifts and downshifts smoothly, not harshly. Verify that the fluid and filter were changed every 30,000 miles.

3. Check the cooling system. Remove the radiator cap and look inside. Signs of rust, mineral build-up, gel, or other signs of neglect should cause you to move on. Examine the contents of the overflow tank--anything besides coolant is suspect. Observe where the temperature gauge rides. Ideally, the coolant (50/50 antifreeze and distilled water) was changed every two to three years.

4. Check the brakes. Look for leaking brake fluid around the master cylinder, calipers, and wheel cylinders. Check the thickness of the brake pads and shoes. Ensure the ABS light does not come on. Test drive the vehicle and observe the brakes. Pay attention to stopping quality, steering wheel shimmy upon braking, pulling, and any noises (e.g. worn wheel bearings). Ideally, the brake fluid was changed every two years.

5. Check heating, air conditioning, and defrosting systems. Ensure the heater and air conditioning systems work really well. Verify that the rear window defroster works.

6. Check the charging system. Ensure that the battery light does not come on, while the engine is running. If it has a voltmeter or ammeter, note where the needle rides. Attaching a multimeter to the battery terminals, with the engine idling, the regulated battery voltage should be 14 to 15 volts.

7. Check condition and level of fluids; e.g. engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, hydraulic clutch (brake) fluid, and power steering fluid.

8. Check the tires. Ensure the tires are name brand, quality tires. Look for signs of unusual tread wear.

9. Check the suspension. Look for sagging--an indication of worn springs or struts. Jack up the front end of the car. With your hands at 3 and 9 o'clock, check for tie-rod wear. With you hands at 12 and 6 o'clock check for ball joint wear.

10. Check door and trunk gaskets for leaks. Ensure that the car was never flooded.

11. Check the maintenance log. Review log and back-up receipts for work performed.

12. Check the body for dents, dings, and other body work.

13. Verify that the stereo, GPS, power windows, power seats, and other electrical systems work.

14. Check Kelly Blue Book and/or Edmunds.com prices, for starters.

15. Get the VIN, obtain a Carfax Report on the vehicle, and review its history. Ensure there are no liens on the car, that the title is clean and transferable, and that you are dealing with the legal owner (check I.D.).

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38. Block/Head Sealers

I'm skeptical of all of these products! People come on this site claiming stop leak products work--most of whom work for the manufacturer. All I've ever seen, in real life, is the mess created afterwards--residue formed around the thermostat, radiator cap, and a token layer of crud around some parts of the head gasket (not enough to seal anything). My opinion is to fix it right or leave it alone. I would not use them on my vehicles. These overpriced products prey on the poor and desperate.

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Wip

39. Heater Problems


Most heater problems are a result of poor preventive maintenance, which causes corrosion and/or phosphate scale to develop in the heater core. Changing coolant every 2 to 3 years, using a 50/50 mixture of manufacturer recommend antifreeze and distilled water, will prevent these problems.


1. Ensure the radiator is full of coolant.

2. Ensure there is no air in the system.

3. Ensure heater hoses are not kinked or collapsed.

4. Replace the thermostat, which may have stuck open.

5. Check if the inlet and outlet lines to the heater core are hot, when the heater is turned to high. This tells you if coolant is circulating properly. If both lines are not hot, the heater core may be blocked, due to corrosion or phosphate scale, or the heater control valve may not be working properly. In this case, reverse flush the heater core. Afterwards, refill with a 50/50 mixture of manufacturer recommended antifreeze and distilled water. If the heater core is plugged, and the flush and fill does not solve the problem, then either the heater core or heater control valve needs to be replaced.

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40. Buying a Salvage Engine

I recommend, if necessary, paying extra for a warranty covering the engine and labor, since there's a fair degree of risk.


Be careful buying an engine from salvage--it's easy to get burned! Most low mileage salvage engines have been involved in an accident. Check out the engine very carefully. First, remove the oil filler cap and look for obvious signs of oil oxidation on the cap, rocker arms, and valve cover. Take your finger and rub it across the underside of the valve cover. Look for signs of sludge, wear, rust, and neglect. Next, start spinning things--water pump, alternator, and crankshaft. To rotate the crankshaft, remove all of the spark plugs. Some mechanics squirt inside the cylinders engine oil or ATF, due to the high detergents, to break up any rust ridges. Everything should rotate smoothly and without wobble. Finally, verify the engine number is what you're looking for. Pay particular attention to sensors, wiring harness, engine mounts, and transmission bell housing. Act in haste, repent at leisure.

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41. GM's New Radio Code Procedure

GM has a new procedure for radio codes. If power is lost and/or the radio is disconnected for any reason, the radio code will be lost and the radio will not work. A dealer must input the code because the codes change on a regular basis. Any dealer can re-install the code, but they have to get the code from GM on the day they do the work.