Ask them if a distributor, with that part number, will work in your 1990 Honda Civic, which has such and such an engine. Your engine no. is on the block, just to the left of the exhaust manifold.

Well I found the number on mine and the engine type and matched it with the 91 civic and they were the same but I switched them out the car still didn't turn on but now I look for the fuel pump running and I can't hear it. But when I open the fuel line it has fuel was is that about?

It's good that your have replaced the distributor. Now, we are back to having to probably figure out why the CEL stays on. It's probably not related to the Code 10 situation; instead, it may be related to fuses, main relay, or ignition switch.

Did every fuse test OK with the multimeter? Be exceptionally thorough.

Turning the ignition switch to ON (Position II), not START, does the CEL come on and then go off after 2 seconds? If not, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) 15 amp fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order.

Based on the previous K-Test, the ECM should be fine.

Yes they all read 12.50 like the battery

In all likelihood, then, the problem is with the main relay or ignition switch.

Well the book says to test the continuity between 8 and 4 if it don't click replace the relay and it did then it said check the continuity between 5 and 7 if there's no continuity then replace the relay and there wasn't but what would that have to do with it not turning on I mean I don't hear the fuel pump run but I open the fuel line and it has fuel

That test is the main relay test when u unplug the relay iyt has numbers were the relay connects to the connector and u connect a ground and a positive to hear a click

The main relay controls the fuel pump. You can have fuel in the fuel line but it needs to be 43 to 47 psi--the fuel rail must be fully pressurized for the car to start.

How many pin relay do you have? Do you hear/feel the main relay "click" when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II)?

Be sure to clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing. It may be a 3-wire brass connector--remove and clean.

If that doesn't work, perform the tests in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1245523

It's a seven pin relay and it does click when I turn the key and I don't have a fuel rail its fuel injected but a dpfi (dual point fual injected)

OK. Perform the tests in the link I just gave you. You should be very close to getting it to run--don't give up.

When you jump main relay connector Terminals 5 and 7, let me know if the fuel pump runs.

Ok I will performe those test early in the morning I really appreciate all your help and sticking with me on this thank you

You're welcome. Keep me posted.

So I read the entire link you gave me last night and went out to the car today and before I messed with the main relay I turned the key and heard the fuel pump I guesse cause it was a little noisy yesterday I couldn't hear it and then I went on to check to see if I had some type of spark and I took the plugs out and had someone crank the car and I finally got spark but not a good enough spark from my opinion and aa I went from the far right to the far left plug the sprak seemed weaker. That's as far as I could go today because its raining and kind of snowing today but could that mean the igniter is weak?

More than likely it's a weak coil. Igniters are the equivalent of "electronic points" in older distributors. Under direction of the ECM they open and close the primary circuit in the coil. Since the coil is a "step-up" transformer, it induces much greater voltage in the secondary circuit of the coil, which allows the spark plugs to fire.

And that's why I'm not getting much spark also it explains itself cause I have changed everythin in the distributor even the distributor but the coil from the new one had been taken out so I put the old one in I haven't changed that at all

We should be getting very close. Many salvage yards sell the coils separately. I recommend replacing coils every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

Well I'm very over both of those haha I called autozone for a new one and its 60 bucks but I'm going to call a salvage yard is there a certain part number on those coils or can I just get it from whatever honda distributor from the same year?

Look at your present coil. See if you can pull a number off it.

Does your distributor have an internal or external coil? I presume external.

It's a internal coil

What is the part no. for your distributor?

It's a (Td01u)

I see it now. The coil is #TC-07A.

Ok so I get a tc-o7a coil right

Yes. You'll probably see that number somewhere on your current coil. It's a good idea to take it with you for comparison.

I believe you have a TEC (Tokyo Electric Company) distributor (i.e. TD-01U) and a TEC coil (i.e. TC-07A).

T=TEC
D=Distributor
C=Coil

Ok well ill go to the salvage yard tomorrow and ill let u know how it goes thank u

OK

I went to autozone to get my coil tested and while I was at it I decided to check my icm and I have two icm got them both tested and both failed the test but also they told me that they stopped testing coils so I called orielly's and they also stopped testing coils. But they told me to use a voltmeter and test the resistance but how do I do that? Without it being pluged in or does it need to even be pluged in?

Coil Test:

Set multimeter to ohms.

1. Remove the two screws to disconnect the BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires from terminals A (+) and B (-), respectively.

2. Measure resistance (Ω ohms) between the terminals. Replace coil if the resistance is not with specifications. Primary Winding Resistance (between A and B terminals) should be 0.6 to 0.8 ohms. Secondary Winding Resistance (between A and secondary winding terminals) should be 12.8 to 19.2 k-ohms.

Bench test coils is really not reliable, since it does not simulate the heat in actual operation.

So what do you recomemnd other then the bench test

If you can afford it, replace both the ICM and coil every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

If AutoZone's test says the ICM is bad, it is bad. However, if it says the ICM is fine, it may or may not work in practice. This is the same thing with testing coils. The tests just are not definitive.

Ok well I'm going to try and buy both of them ill let u know what happense because if I get them from the salvage yard I'm not so sure it would work seeing as all those cars are well over 120,000 miles and 10 years over 10 years

I don't like spending people's money for them but ICMs and coils are problematic components on Hondas.

Be sure to apply the heat transfer compound to the back of any new ICM or it won't last long.

Yeah I understand plus I feel too close to just give up and I have spent too much money to turn back now cause before I started to talk to you I had to replace broken parts in the distributor so I feel that that's the problem but either way will see if it is I hope so

I will is that like a grease or something

It's a very specialized compound--it's not ordinary silicone grease. Don't use anything else. They should give you a small amount with your new ICM.

Failure to apply silicone heat transfer compound will cause the ICM to quickly fail. Arctic Silver 5 is recommended by an AMHD member, which is available at Radio Shack.

If the ICM and the heat sink are simply placed together, the small air gaps (insulator) that naturally exist between them will inhibit heat transfer. By filling these gaps, the compound allows a direct path through which heat can travel. Failure to apply this grease is one reason why some Hondas suddenly die. Attention to detail makes a big difference with modern-day electronics.

Ok ill be sure to put it on there

Did you test the ICM in the new distributor from salvage?