Mmk, so, brilliance has found its way into my mechanical skills once again! Lol when I marked the rotor position, I apparently used a marker that is wiped away easily. So now my positioning is lost, but, I think I have the right idea on this I think, from things I've read.

To set the timing right, I can pull out the #1 spark plug, and see down to the #1 piston. Would I be able to turn the engine myself and get the piston in the highest position then point the rotor towards the contact in my distributor cap for the #1 spark plug wire?

I wasn't sure how to phrase this for Google to give me a good answer lol.

No, you don't need to do that or go that direction at all. Just replace the distributor and center the top mounting bolt in the slot and you should be able to get it starter with little trouble. You can set the timing very close by ear--you can tell how it sounds, runs, and performs. Later, you can get an induction timing light and set it spot on.

Well, I have spun the rotor accidentally when working on it on my desk, wouldn't that cause problems even starting the car? Once started I know how to adjust (thanks to one of your many amazing guides) but I thought it would have trouble.

Makes no difference, since, because of the brilliant offset shaft, it cannot be installed incorrectly. You're safe!

You'll see this in action, when you install the distributor. Then, you'll have to rotate the rotor, until the offset shaft on the distributor mates with the offset shaft on the camshaft.

Amazing! Love import cars! I'm finding all of these cool little things on imports, I used to be a chevy dude :) oh how I'm in love with my honda haha.

I love my Civic. However, I've never met a car or truck that I didn't love. Here's a little tid bit for you. Besides my 1993 Civic I own a 2000 Taurus with the 3.0L DOHC engine. The Taurus is really a fully-loaded Civic. Many engineering features are similar. In fact, when they are next to each other in the garage, their shapes are so similar it's scary. One is white the other is British Racing Green.

Okay, so I am having to wait until Friday to buy my new ICM but I've been reading everything I can get my hands on about this car. So you told me about how to get my timing close, but I was reading your guide and I think I can get my hands on a timing light pretty easily. Thing is, at the end of your guide you only have the d16z6 listed, would my d16y8 be the same steps?

I don't know how many degrees BTDC your car should be set at. It's also important to set the idle rpm first, when the engine is at normal operating temperature. There also is not a Service Check Connector to jump. You need to find out those specs.

Okay. I'm just a little fuzzy on a few details here. When I reinstall my distributor how accurate will the timing be? And upon installation and setting idle speed would that be good enough? And I don't understand what you meant by adjusting the timing by ear.

Through experience, I can set the timing on my Civic by ear. In fact, where the timing is now is slightly retarded from where the timing light set it. I did this because it runs better, particularly with the air conditioner on in the hot Texas summers.

Once you install your distributor, with the three mounting bolts in place, you will be able to rotate it counter-clockwise and clockwise to advance or retard the timing. You will know when it's about right, particularly when you drive it. If need be, through trial and error, you will find where it runs best; then, take a straight-edge and a scribe and mark a horizontal line on the distributor housing and mount.

Do you have a manual transmission?

Great description, that's what I thought but I had a mechanic give me some ridiculous explanation. Okay, and I live in Texas as well lol, so a slight retardation in the timing might be in line with spring approaching?

And no my car is automatic unfortunately. I am craving so bad to do a 5 speed swap but there are financial constraints :) soon enough though, soon enough :)

In my opinion, you want to keep your ATX. The ramifications on the ECM, wiring harness, lack of clutch, and more are horrific. Instead, I'd drain the tranny and add Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. It will only take several quarts and the performance will improve markedly.

That is such a bummer to hear :/ but I'll definitely do that. Any chance of a solid way to do a swap?

Nope. If you studied the histories of people on this site who have tried engine and tranny swaps, you would leave well-enough alone. There's a lot more to it than most people realize.

If you follow the maintenance recommendations I gave you, your Civic should go 350,000 miles.

What outfit are you going to buy your igniter from? I ask because this link may save you a little money:

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b5...g?t=1263325595

I was going to go with autozone, but I'll check with advanced auto parts and see what their prices are.

Shop for price and lifetime warranty. They will match each other's price.

Ok got my ICM and I was putting things back together when I may have run into a snag. The screws that connect the heatsink to the igniter seem to thread and fit fine on the heatsink portion but when they travel through the igniter holes they are much too small, and I don't think I see threads at all. Is this right? Because basical the screws hold it in place but the heatsink is just sitting right on the igniter. I know this is a must in computers, but most people don't shake their computers when they are running :) just wanted to double check.

There shouldn't be threads on the igniter--just two holes. This allows the igniter to fasten securely to the heat sink. If the igniter's holes were threaded, it would not work. This is an important point and lesson for you. The holes in the original igniter were not threaded, either. You don't want the piece you are mounting to have threads--it won't tighten as much otherwise. This is a basic mechanical engineering principle.

That's what I thought, but this heatsink stays connected to the frame of the distributor, where the igniter will detach. It holds it in place, as in pegs in a hold, but it doesn't fasten down to the igniter. This is correct?

Isn't the new igniter identical to the old one? The #2 Phillips cap head machine screws should not pull through the holes in the igniter.

It should look like this:

AutoZone.com | | Control Module - Ignition | CONTROL MODULE

Problem solved I'm retarded lol. So now, the 4 prongs coming off the ICM where the wires attach, will that one on the side have a wire connected to it?

Only 15 min. left on your lab class final--then, all tools will be taken away.

I believe the one on the right side goes to the BLU wire (tachometer).

After the igniter and heat sink are installed in the distributor:

YEL/GRN wire goes to the male terminal on the left.

BLK/YEL wire goes to the center male terminal.

WHT/BLU wire from the coil goes to the male terminal on the right.

A failure of epic proportion. I broke off a screw that holds the wire connector down on the coil. I have no clue what to do. Its inside the hole, broken. :( :( :(

Did you tighten it too much?

Ya, but it didn't even go down far enough to hit the metal contact. And the screw is the same one that came out of it.

You may need to buy a new coil and screw.

First, try removing the coil from the distributor, by removing the two mounting screws. Then, take a small jeweler's screwdriver and see if you can ease the sheared-off screw out, as you apply pressure. If you do it right, you should be able to get it out.

It broke the head off the screw. Ahjsuerhjaskrg I can't explain my frustration. I have no money for a coil :(

See if my approach works or take a strong needle or awl and see if you can work it out--you should be able to. This is a time for you to be creative. Once it starts to come, you should be able to get out.

Well its too soft, I cut a notch with my dremel pretty deep, got a flathead in there and it just bent the screw and my notch had disappeared as if it were made of clay.

Ask you friend, who has the Dremel Tool, to cut a very small channel across the sheared-off screw. Use a small screwdriver to then back it out.

See if a salvage yard will sell you a coil for a couple of bucks--just ensure it's the right one.

Yeah I'm going to check salvage yards. I have it on VERY snug with a little lock-tie thing. Its sitting fine, but only temporary.

Now, where would the tach wire be to plug into the ICM. I seem to have lost it

Other than that, is everything else reinstalled in the distributor and ready to go?

The tach wire should be inside the distributor. It may have fallen beneath the igniter/heat sink.

Take your old coil to a mechanically inclined friend and ask him for help.