There's no current through it at all
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There's no current through it at all
Did you turn your ignition switch to ON, before you checked for voltage between terminal 5 of the main relay connector and ground?
If you did, we are back to the fuse issue. Again, check for an ACG (S) fuse--it might be the second fuse in from the top right. Look at the fuse box cover for its location. Make sure and test fuses with your meter, so you don't put one back in the wrong slot. If you are sure all under-dash fuses are good, then it appears your ignition switch is bad. We are very close to solving this, though!
Why would the ignition switch be bad... the car turns over it just won't fire
And would it be just the key or the entire assembly?
Here's the flow: battery to under-hood fuse box to ignition switch to under-dash fuse box to terminal 5 of the main relay connector. You say you aren't getting voltage at terminal 5, so it has to be a fuse, an open in the harness between the under-dash fuse box and terminal 5, or a bad ignition switch. The liklihood of a harness problem is not very great. The problem would be with the switch, not the lock.
After this, I don't have any other ideas. If you ran your tests properly, your problem resides in this area.
I've checked every single fuse in the car all of them are good... so your saying the ignition switch is the most likely problem that's keeping power from going to the main relay and such?
Could it be the tumbler.. or the place u turn the key or the rod in the steering column?
It is this component:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...arter%20Switch
You can pull the old switch apart and probably see major contact wear. It's a high wear component.
Do you see an ACG (S) (ALT) fuse on the under-dash fuse box cover? One guy I helped once had a "buddy" remove this fuse as a prank, because he knew how significant it was, and it totally stumped this Naval aircraft mechanic until I figured it out for him.
Take your meter and start tracing the voltage back to the battery, starting from terminal 5 of the main relay connector.
HERE'S HOW I SEE IT: IF YOU TURN THE IGNITION SWITCH TO ON AND DON'T MEASURE ANY VOLTAGE BETWEEN TERMINAL 5 AND BODY GROUND, YOU NEED TO REPLACE A BAD ACG (ALT) (S) 15 AMP FUSE, IN THE UNDER-DASH FUSE BOX, OR REPAIR AN OPEN IN THE WIRE BETWEEN THE MAIN RELAY AND THE ACG (ALT) (S) 15 AMP FUSE.
Don't mess with the ignition switch, yet.
I've checked and checked and checked the fuses all of them are good... under dash and under hood, on the diagram on the back of the fuse box cover there is a single alt 15 fuse and it is still goodso its either the wires from the fuse to the relay from the fuse box or the wire leading to the underdash fuse box to the fuse that powers the relay... or ignition switch wear, because it probably hasn't been changed since 1990 and it has over 200k miles
Yes, that's how it appears to me.
Can I test the wire going from the fuse box to the main relay with an ohm tester?
Only if you disconnect the negative battery terminal first; otherwise, you will blow the fuse in your DMM.
Hello I have become very impatient with my vehicle and it seems like many of you are also. It is a 91 Honda civic si and has 234,000 miles on it. I bought it about 3 months ago and for the first month and a half it worked perfectly. One day the clutch went out completely, as I was driving on the freeway and lucky got a free tow from a random person. I took it in to a mechanic and had the clutch and ball joints replaced. A month after, in 5th gear it completely shut off and I could not start it. Right before this happened I changed out spark plugs, ds cap+rotor. A week later I changed the ICM and nothing. Returned it for the coil and BAM it started right up. I thought I was going to be scotch free but 2 weeks later it died on the road again. I let it sit there for 7 hours and came back to tow it. Apparently it started and drove perfect ALL the way home. It drove good for about a week then again like other people have said, I had to idal at stop lights because it felt like I was loseing power from the rpms. Parked t for a day and it has not worked since. I bought a New main relay and still no help. Since I tried ICM, coi,l this cap + rotor, spark plugs, main relay. It still does not start. I have read over 100 post and I have yet to come up with a solution. Any help would be good. Another thing is I am not getting power from the dizzy at all. And I hear 2 clicks after check engine, hear fuel pump.
Another thing to add is that when it was still working, I revved it past 5000 rpms and the check engine would go on then off after 3 secs. Right before the car died I heard Really hard screching noises. Then it satted loseing power badly.
1. The high revving could have finished off the distributor bearing, which was possibly heading for failure anyhow. Could this have been the screech you heard? If so, distributor sensors may have been affected. Consider installing a new distributor housing. This is real common on Civics (sealed bearings only last so long).
2. Check out MAP sensor.
3. Perform K-Test on ECM (see FAQ).
I got it to work. I unpluged then repluged the ICM. Works good for now, I will update it there are any other problems
Is there something I should put on the tips of the ICM metal tips since I unpluges and repluged them. I read from other fourms that once you take out the ICM you shuld grease it up? What material and where should I buy it. Also where specifically on the part do I put this stuff.
I believe your problem is that the female connectors, going to the igniter, need to be crimped a little, because they get loose over time. Coat the back of the igniter, and the four male connectors, with silicone grease. It's available at most auto part stores.
Hey tx, a lot of the things controlled by the underdash fuse box still work... could it still be the ignition switch? Sorry hondas are a new thing for me, but I figured that when I turn the key there is a black box on the fuse box that clicks when it gets power... I'm just lost and confused on this car
Determine which 15 amp fuse controls power to the main relay. Remove it and make sure there is no corrosion. If you don't have an air bag, it could be fuse no. 12. See if this checks out.
Again, the problem is an "open" from the ignition switch harness to the main relay. I would remove the ignition switch and harness and see what you find. My experience with Hondas is that it is some component that fails, not the wiring harness itself.
Well I tested the blue and white wire from the switch to the relay and its fine... it's a green wire with a black stripe that goes from the relay, all the way around the engine bay to the ECM and its bad... I really don't want to re wire this car but it looks like I'm going to have to do it
Are you saying it's the wiring harness from the ECM to the main relay that's bad? What did you see?
I did the test with the body ground and all the terminals on the main relay plug... I think its teminal two... its either terminal one or two and it's a green wire with a black stripe... from the fuse box to the plug there is no current through the wire at all... I haven't been able to test the rest of the wire because my meter doesn't have long wires for that...
Hey TX, I got my civic to run for about one week now, but just today I let it warm up outside for about 20 minutes because of the cold Minnesota weather and suddenly my rpm's was going crazzy from 0 striaght to 2 rpms rapidly. I remember yesterday when I was leaving work that when I started the car it went straight to 2 rm and not the regular 1- 1 1/2. As of right now the rpm just died and won't move? The car also feels like It lost tons of power and barely wants to start up. When starting the car I also hear a high pitch sound and Im thinking that might be the starter? The weird thing is usually it starts up with just one click and has the hihg pitch sound. Can the starter stop the RPM? Conclusion is getting hard start, RPM DEAD, high pitch start.
Another thing to add is I have switched diz cap, rotor, coil, main relay. Plus whne I got it to work last week It took a lot of tries and maybe that hurt the starter?
With rpm fluctuating like that, I would test or replace your igniter.
Tx it was the alternator silinoid valve fuse the was bad.. and now the main relay clicks all the times and the check engine light only comes on for like two to three seconds... but I'm still not getting spark... when you let go of the key a small orange spark will jump from the wire to a ground source if its not in the spark plug chamber... so I think I still need a new distributor what do you think?
Sounds like you ended up replacing the fuse we talked about; i.e. the ACG (S) (ALT). ALT stands for alternator.
Does your CEL come on and go off after 2 seconds? If you can answer "Yes" to the 3 basic diagnostic questions, then the reason the car is not sparking is likely distributor-related; e.g. bad igniter or coil.
Yep only two seconds and its not the igniter because we get power through it... I am pretty sure it's the magnetic pickup that's bad and you can't swap those out
First, I'd recommend having the igniter and coil tested at Autozone for free. Yes, it could be a bad pickup, but it's not a common problem.
All of this is somewhat strange, since you told me you put in a new distributor. Right?
HI I have a 90 honda civic and had the same problem it is your main full rely that dose it I had no help to figure it out it is kind of hard to get to but it is under the dash on the driver side right next to the little cup or chang holder it is right behind it it got mine at the junk yard for $5 but if you buy a new one they are like 100 buck and that fix it for me I had replaced a lot of stuff to find itQuote:
Originally Posted by CoB_hatecrew
No the main relay is fine I broke my lower dash getting to it, but it is the distributor I know for a fact now, thanks anyway
Tx I thought it was new but the guy had rebuilt it and he didn't know anything about cars at all, so I have to spend 180 bucks on a new distributor, and the people at auto zone are morons who don't know how to use the equipment, so we are just going to buy a new distributor. Thank you for all your help
Check out EBay. One other guy on this site just bought a new distributor, with coil, igniter, etc. for $109. It was an incredible deal.
Yea but e-bay is unreliable... could end up getting a junk one that's missing parts... id rather buy it from hondazone.com, but again thanks for all of your help tx, if I have a problem again ill come to you
Hey tx, I got my distributor and put it in... I had to charge my battery and it is blistering cold here in Ohio right now, but I went to start it up after putting the battery back in and my gauge lights were dim and my main relay was buzzing... like it kept clicking rappidly, any ideas?
Also there is no power to anything in my car... not even headlights...
Not even the cd player
Sounds like a bad ECM (clicking main relay)--run the K-Test. Also, check all under-hood and under-dash fuses.
The ecm is brand new... what is the k-test?? And I checked the fuses before n e of them... and all of them this time were fine
Section A describes the K-Test:
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219451
Other than that, I don't know what to suggest other than running through all of the crank but won't start tests again (Sections A and B).
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