Yeah... the first row of numbers was the same. I figured that was all that mattered. It came out of a working 92 civic 1.5liter manual tranny. It worked perfectly for a bit before crapping out on me.

As far as the dielectric grease goes, can I get that at autozone or do I have to go somewhere special? I can try it but I'm still pretty sure that something electrical has to be going wrong as well.

I'm concerned the replacement ECM is not an exact match and that is the heart of your problem. Dielectric grease is available at almost any auto parts store.

So here's my plan for now. I'll probably end up buying a new/reman ECM, but first I'm going to try to fix several of the electrical issues that I already know are there.

One, the cruise control tries to turn on then doesn't stay on.
Two, the door locks quit working a few weeks ago
Three, there is something loose in the wiring for the dash lights. They didn't work at first, then they did for a day, then they didn't work any more after that.
Four, the horn doesn't work.

The fact that I get shocked every time I get out of my car makes me wonder why, since that's the only car I get into that I get shocked from... and it makes me think something electrical is goofed.

Now I'm not super knowledgeable about car computers, but I do know that with desktop computers one part can at times cause other parts to go bad. Maybe you could shed a little light for me about how the car computers interact with a short to ground and stuff like that... and also something about that shocking problem, if introduced to a microchip will fry it. I am not going to buy a new ECM without getting some of this fixed to begin with.

Doug777, you need to eliminate stray current from damaging your ECM. That was part of what the recommendation to use dielectric grease was about. Try isolating what circuit the stray current is flowing through and fix the problem. The link below may give you some ideas on how to proceed:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post241804

Even static electricity is a threat to ECMs, which are full of microchips and other sensitive components.

Hi, I have the same problem with my 92 civic. I was giong down the highway and the car suddely lose throttle. I towed the car back home, I check for spark, no spark. I replaced the distributor, and now I have spark, but it doesn't start. I checked the MFR, it works, when I turn the key to on, I can hear the fuel pump. So what does the problem seem to me? Could I have a bad map sensor? Or could I have a bad ECM?

xxfile,

. Check for a broken timing belt.
. Check each cylinder's compression.
. Clean main ECM ground on the thermostat housing.
. Perform K-Test on ECM.
. Test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter.

So I know timming belt is fine since I can rotate the crank-pully with a break bar and the camshaft will rotate

How do I check cylinder compression and K-test?

Where do I find the main ECM ground on the thermostat hosing (if it's in the hayens manual, Ii can read it)?

I'll test the fuses after work today and come back w/ more questions. Thank you. ;)

Well, I just realize you have a whole how to posts. I'll read them first before I ask more questions.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

xxfile,

. Check for a broken timing belt.
. Check each cylinder's compression.
. Clean main ECM ground on the thermostat housing.
. Perform K-Test on ECM.
. Test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter.

---

Hi txgreasemonkey,

So I did what you said.
-Timming belt is good,
-I don't know how to check cylinder compression with the tools I have, but when I take one sparkplug out and check for spark, I try to stuff the hole with paper towel and it shoots the paper towel right ouw, I don't know if that means I have compression
-I don't know which one is the main ground exactly, but I looked for all the grounds and clean them, they seem good.
-I have 5V between the yel/grn and the blue wire (left pin and middle pin)
-I didn't find any broken fuse, I especially check for fuse 24, because it controls the MFR and ECM, but that one is good.

Does this leads to off timming when I did the installation? And how do I check for timming?

xxfile, I'm not sure what else to suggest. Could you have blown the head gasket, for instance? Maybe someone else will chime in with additional ideas.

Do you think it can be timming issue? Because when I crank, if I hold the key long enough, I would hear back fire (like that bomm noise when you have unburn fuel in your exhaust)

And if I have spark, then we can basicall rule out bad MAP sensor right?

Yes, MAP Sensors are very reliable (and very expensive). I don't think it's the MAP Sensor at all.

So how do I check timming? Because I thought I the distributor can only go in two directions, and one directions is 180 degreess off. So given that timming belt isn't broken, the timming shouldn't be off right?

So if anyone can help, please do so, here's a list of what I have done so far:

So... Here's what I have done so far.

Check spark: I took the spark plug out and then ground it, when I crank, I can see that it has spark. This also tells me that map sensor is good.

Check compression: I didn't use a gage, but I stuff paper towel into the top of the cylinder when I check spark, and when I crank the car, it shoots right out, so I assume I do have compression and it's probably good?

Check ECU: I did the K-test, which is, taking out the map sensor and check for 5 volts between ground and it's power (yel/grn and blue). I did have 5 volts.

Check for exhaust: I once ran into a problem when I was in an auto shop that a car had a bad cat-back and it stuffed up the exhaust and hence the car won't start. I took out the two bults between the down pipe and the cat-back and try to crank the car, no luck, and besides that, I smell gas, so I'm assuming it's spraying gas into the cylinder?

Check voltage on fuel injector: I checked the voltage between the fuel injectors, I got 4 volts when the key is on. I'm not sure whether it's right, but given that when I check for exhaust, and I can smell gas after cranking the car, I assume the fuel injectors are good?

So at this point I guess it' leads to timming? So does anyone know how I should check timming? I mean... is there a way to check if and totally off timming and the car won't start?

Yo txgreasemonkey, question for you. I just tested the ECU, like I jump the ECU test terminals (the one with two wires), and the CEL staied on, no blinks, so I did the map sensor test again (last time I only test the yel/grn and grn wire) so I still have 5 volts between yel/grn and grn wire, but I don't have any voltage between the what and grn wire, so does that tell me my ECM is dead?

Xx, your ECM is likely good, if you performed the K-Test properly and it indicates 5 volts. Be sure to run the test, as I described it. I'm not sure you did it properly. The red wire of your DMM goes to the reference wire on the MAP Sensor connector and the black wire goes to ground.

So I put red terminal on to the middle (green) wire, and red on yel/grn and white? Like I have to check both wires right?

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

Tgm, I just went down and tried the test real quitck so here's what I did:

Voltage between yel/grn(+) and grn(-): 5volts
Voltage between white(+) and grn(-_: less than 1 volt
Voltage between yel/grn(-) and grn(-): - voltage (I can't see negative how much, but it's negative)
Voltage between grn(+) and white(-): no voltage

I tried the same thing using battary ground, and I have the same result. I jumped the terminal for CEL codes (the two terminal connector with the grn/wht and brown wire) and the CEL stays on

Where is the thermastate housing?

Use any engine ground.

All right, let me try again

So yeah, it's the yel/grn wire, the terminal on the right, I press the black lead of the multimer into it, and check it against ground (using red terminal), I have a negative voltage. Does that indicate a bad ECM? Because when I try to jump for the CEL code, the CEL stays on. But why am I still getting spark?

You hooked the leads up backwards.

No, I have the multimeter with me here, it's correct...

Where is e c m locate

povkham, this should help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235038

Hello txgreasemonkey...
I did a Google search on the problem I'm having with my Honda Civic and ran across this thread. I hope you can offer some insight. My 95 Civic has 326,000 miles on it. I know that's a lot, but I'm out of work right now, and can't afford a new car... so I need to try and keep this one going, especially to help me with in my job search. Anyway... it cranks... but won't start. I had it towed to a repair place... and they told me the distributor failed. So I later put in a new distributor... and new spark plugs, plug wires and did a tune up. When I try to start it... it still cranks but won't start. It sounds like it wants to start... but something isn't happening. I read this thread about the ECM... so I'm wondering if that could be it. The check engine light is not on... and when I just turn the ignition switch on... the engine light goes out after a couple of seconds. Do you think I should test the ECM? What else should I test for?

Thanks for any advice you can give.
Gerry

. Test all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or mult-imeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Be very thorough in testing EVERY fuse, since it will save a lot of time and money.

. Ensure you can hear the fuel pump run, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II).

. Clean the main ECM ground (brass connector), located on the thermostat housing.


gerrythrash, since the CEL comes on and goes off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), the ECM is likely okay. If the problem persists, after performing the steps above, I would focus on the distributor, even though you've had a new one installed. We have had many problems with new after market distributors for Hondas. After market Ignition Control Modules and coils are fine, but the problem is with the distributor housing--likely with the internal sensors (CKP, CYL, and TDC). I would take the distributor back and try and get another one. I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings.

Thank you so much for the information. I'll check the fuses and see what I come up with. It's a brand new distributor I put in... so I'll be bummed if that's the problem, since I ordered it through an online auto parts seller, and would have to go through the trouble of packing it and sending it back. I'll let you know what happens.

Thank you so much for the information. I'll check the fuses and see what I come up with. It's a brand new distributor I put in... so I'll be bummed if that's the problem, since I ordered it through an online auto parts seller, and would have to go through the trouble of packing it and sending it back. I'll let you know what happens. One thing I don't understand, however. You suggest checking all the fuses. So if a fuse that has nothing to do with the ignition system (cooling fan fuse, for exampe) goes, that can cause this crank/no start problem?

I'm quite sure the problem is with the distributor, if everything else checks out okay. On my 1993 Civic, I purchased just the distributor housing from Honda and installed an aftermarket ICM and coil. That was almost 8 years ago.

Regarding the fuse question, the answer is no. Since it's so easy to check everything with a test light or multi-meter, why not test everything? The prime fuse for your car starting is the ACG (S) (ALT) fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box.

I'm virtually certain the problem is with your new distributor. Be sure to keep me posted.

Thanks again. I'll let you know what I come up with.

Hi again TxGreaseMonkey...

So here's the thing. I bought a testing light and tested the fuses. All the ones in the under-hood box are fine. But... in the fuse panel under the dash, NONE of them work. Not one. And I know that ACG fuse is there. But here's the weird thing. The headlight fuses are there also, and if I turn the lights on, they still work. So I'm wondering if the main relay or some other relay could be the culprit.

Your thoughts?

Sounds like your ignition switch is bad. Check it for wear, pitting, and melting:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652

The flow is positive battery terminal, under hood fuse box, ignition switch, under dash fuse/relay box. I think that says it all. From the fuse check, I now think your ignition switch is the culprit. Should be an easy fix.

This is why I keep harping on checking fuses with a test light or multi-meter, where you are testing for power through the fuse. A simple visual inspection of the fuses would not have uncovered the problem.

Good job!

Hmmm... that's interesting that you say that. This past December, my car was stolen, and when I got it back, the ignition switch was totally screwed up... Icouldn't get the key to turn it. So I had it towed to a Honda dealer, and paid them $500 to put in a new ignition switch assembly. It worked fine for about three weeks, then when I went to start it, it cranked but wouldn't start. Also, incidentally, during this three weeks, I noticed the SRS light would stay on. So I'm wondering if all of that is related. So this is a relatively new ignition switch.

I'll check it out. Thanks again.

Go back and check the 50A (IG) fuse in the under hood fuse box. IG means it goes to the ignition switch. Turn the ignition switch to ON, and touch the test light to the screws on each end of the fuse. It should also have a window for you to examine.

Clean the main ground. Ensure your test light was clamped to a good ground, when you checked the fuses in the under dash fuse box.

Hi again... so check this out. I just went down to check the ignition switch. I completely took out the lower cover, and all the panels. Just for fun, I retested the fuses on the under-dash fuse box (thinking I could get a better angle at the fuses). So... all of the fuses are fine... except Nos. 7, 9, 11 and 13. Fuses 7 and 9 are the headlight low beams, 11 is for the taillight, instrument panel and license plate light... and 13 is the starter signal. I replaced them with spare fuses, and they don't work. I then put one of those fuses in a slot (matching the amps) that had a fuse that worked, and the replacement ones also work. So what do you make of that?

I also checked the 50A ignition fuse under the hood... it's fine.