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Good to hear the fuel pump does run. Did you test the various distributor sensors?
Have you checked for any codes, since you installed the new ECM? Reset the ECM and try cranking the starter for 20 seconds to see if it throws a code. This may help you zero-in on where the problem lies. This is starting to get into the obscure, since you have fuel and spark.
Ok I bought a complete brand new distributor from eBay I got a deal on it, just $120 include. Shipping, as soon as I get it I'll post the results, thanks
Awesome price. Did that include igniter and coil? What did the distributor sensor tests reveal about your old distributor?
My 93 honda civic dose not start. When it was parked 1 month ago it was running fine. Went to start it but it turns over but won't start
Answer these 3 basic diagnostic questions for me, in a 1-2-3 format:
1. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (not START), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds?
2. When the CEL goes out, do you hear (or feel) the main relay "click"?
3. During the 2 second interval that the CEL is on, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run?
Here it is it looks like it has everything in it:Quote:
Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey
All I can say is WOW! That's one of the best deals I've ever seen. Did your old distributor fail the sensor tests? Your Civic should run now.
I think I no longer need to do tests on the old one, I just wait for the new one and see what I can do, hopfully it's going to run like you said.Quote:
Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey
Gents,
I have a very similar problem on a 2000 1.6 VTEC DOHC Civic.
The car was being driven on a hill, and then it cut out and has not started since.
There is fuel, compression, spark and the engine management light is going out as normal, and the car has been hooked up to OBDII and there are no error codes.
The entire distributor unit has been replaced out of caution and it is still no different. Spark plugs have also been changed and there is a very strong spark when cranking.
So : Engine management light is going out, fuel pump is running and stops when the main relay clicks and the EML goes out.
What can I do gents as I am at a total loss!
I would check the main relay and various sensors, particularly the MAP sensor, CYL, CKP, and TDC. After the distributor was replaced, was the timing checked? Test the health of your ECM, by checking for 5 volts between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground.
Got the distributor, installed it unfortunately it didn't help the car still won't start, the last thing I'm going to do is replace the map sensor and the knock sensor if the problem persists I will have to just sell it as is. Note that I have replaced the main relay, the ECU, the spark plugs and the distributor.
Don't give up, "Dawn is Coming." Hang in there! Never, never give up.!
I know you have said you have spark and fuel. However, have you checked fuel pressure? Your fuel pump may be turning but its pressure might be weak or your fuel filter might be old and restricting pressure and flow to the fuel rail. Have you checked the injectors? With ignition OFF, disconnect the 2P connector from each injector and measure resistance between the 2 terminals of the injector. It should be 10-13 ohms. Turn ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between YEL/BLK (+) terminal in the 2P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? If no, repair open in the YEL/BLK wire between fuel injector and the main relay. If yes, reconnect the 2P connector to the injector.
How many miles are on your Civic? Have you checked each cylinder's compression? Because you have spark and because MAP sensors are expensive, I wouldn't replace this item now. You must be getting very close to getting it to run.
Hi there tx, my '93 Honda Civic DX is not starting as well. Unfortunately I am about 2,500 miles away from my tools. I have already read through this thread and gone to my car to check things out. I don't have a multimeter or a spark plug socket (not sure if I need one of those). I have a few questions for you, but first I will start by answering your questions.
Yes. I did the Service Check Indicator and when it was jumped the CEL came on and stayed on steady, no flashing at all. Is that a code? What does it mean?Quote:
Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey
I hear a click, I think it is the relay but it may be the sound of the light going off? I don't know that much.Quote:
Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey
no.Quote:
Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey
I had a friend check the fuel pump and he says that fuel is indeed getting to the engine. I changed the distributer cap and the rotory button and when I reconnected the negative battery cable after that I heard the fuel pump run.
My Chilton manual doesn't say anything about a Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor, what is this and where do I find it in case I need to disconnect it like you had to.
The car died while at a red light, it will not start again, I am thinking that this shouldn't be the spark plugs or the wires because they wouldn't all go out at once right? One at a time seems much more likely and there was no indication that one cylinder was not firing.
Lastly, I am considering just getting a new distributer since I can't figure out what else to do. I don't necessarily have the funds to blow on that and then have other things to fix afterwards. You said something about the igniter, is this a normal piece of the distributer, in such that when I buy a new distributer I will have a new igniter as well.
Do you have any suggestions or information that could help me and maybe even save me the money? I have a few friends down here, and one of them may be able to let me borrow a multimeter, but it will be days before that happens. My car is 20 minutes from the house I am staying at so it is a slow process of working on it, only when I have time and can get a ride.
Sorry, that was a lot of questions. Hope I have enough info for you.
Barbara
If you follow the procedure described in the FAQ section, it should help you get your Civic running again:
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219451
I would focus on the igniter and coil. Autozone and O'Reilly Auto will test these for free. If you want to install an inexpensive distributor, with all new everything, look on EBay. They're available for around $110. Also, make sure to install new NGK plugs in your Civic. Go through the new FAQ section and see if it doesn't help you troubleshoot what's wrong.
I did answer the questions, and then I added the part about the service check connector. It turns off after 2 seconds, unless I jump the connector then it stays steady.
TX, or anyone who will help me. I have read through the FAQ section and find that my fuel pump is indeed pumping fuel to the engine (though I can't hear the pumping there is fuel getting to the engine) and the relay is working, but it is still not igniting. I would like to check the ECM and or the MAP but my Chilton Manual does not mention either of these items. I need to know where they are, can someone please tell me where to find them and what they look like. I have the FAQ printed up, but they do not tell me where to find these items in order to do the K-Test.
One other question that seems stupid to ask. When turning the ignition "ON not Start" is that 1 click or 2? My ignition has l and ll. Is 2 clicks correct? 1 click has no lights coming on.
Thank you to anyone who is willing to help me.
Turn the ignition key to II. The MAP Sensor is in the middle of the firewall, right on top. It has a 3-P connector going to it. Very easy access. It has a vacuum hose coming out of the bottom of the sensor, which is about 1.5"x1"x1".
You should definitely be able to hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run, when the ignition switch is turned to II. Roll down your window, if necessary. If you still don't hear it, jump terminals 5 and 7, to the main relay's connector, and then turn the ignition switch to II. You should definitely hear it run now. If you hear it now for the first time, replace the main relay. It's best to run the K-Test before getting involved with the main relay. It's so simple and important, so why not?
Read Section N to the FAQ Table of Contents.
Thank you, I will try that.
Hi I'm the one who was about to give up after replaced ECM, distributor, main relay, spark plugs the total is about $250 plus $90 two police tickets for long period parking, this morning I was going to list it for sale as is, but I decided to give it the last try I jump start it to my second car and kept cranking and cranking and cranking until it started it was rough in the beginning and then the engine starts to pick up speed, what a miracle, now it's running just like before, one of the cylinders is just 50psi but the engine works I don't care, no I got to clean it up and sell it at the actual condition. What do you think txgreasemonkey were they the injectors?
I don't really know--it's likely a combination of a number of things you did. Good news, anyhow.
My 92' DX today decided to stop priming its fuel pump. I normally always start the car with a pause at the ON position. So I knew when I didn't hear my fuel pump; there was no point in starting.
So for the rest of the day I probably tried 20 times turning the ignition to the ON position, and of those tries the fuel pump primed for 3 of them. The first time it primed was after dissconnecting and connecting the fuel pump connector, I thought it was fixed after that, but I think now it was pure coincidence that it happened. The second time, it decided to prime, but I hadn't touched anything; the car started but then died. The third time it primed, I started the car with no problems. Then I turned the car off and tried to ON position, no prime, CEL goes off after 2 secs... I hear a click, but the CEL comes back on. This occurred the next 2-3 tries, and then it went to a solid CEL that doesn't go off. During the day, most of the tries it was a solid CEL; with a few times the CEL went off, not sure about the click.
My car came with these poorly cut keys, it takes me forever to turn the ignition.. I'm wondering if this has anything to do with it. Can a bad key break the ignition switch? Its hard to answer your three questions since my problem seems to be intermittent?
I had an extra ECU at hand to try, but it didn't make any difference.
My cars been a storage car for 6months probably; it had no problems starting throughout that time... the last time I started it with no problems before today's occurrence was only 5 days ago.
Im really frustrated as to why this has SUDDENLy occured; and the only thing I can think of is during the last few days, is the weather, its been cold at night and warm during the day; my car fogs up in the inside so moisture is was forming.
Read sections A and B in the linke below:
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ics-46563.html
Run the K-Test first. Then, try replacing the main relay. Keep me posted.
Yea I've read those already.
I forgot to add that, my is parked outside, after the post I made, I went outside to give II position a try again, it was around 1-2'C; the fuel pump primed... Did it again and the pump primed again..
Today in the afternoon I tried, same problem, no prime...
This evening again with near freezing temps, tried II position twice and it primed both times..
I wonder if its to do with what's in my gas tank... (the needles just above empty) moisture is developing in the day because its warmer.. maybe 7C?
I had the same problem. I was installing a stock air filter for my b16a engine and I accidentally unplugged one of the hoses that go to the MAP sensor. The thing was it was sputtering and I couldn't figure out the problem, after a day of sputtering the engine now didn't start. It would turn over but it wouldn't start. So I finally found out it was the map sensor and I plugged the hose in, and reset the ecm, but the car still won't start. I think I had the hose off to the map sensor too long and I don't know if its not getting fuel or not. So now that I have the MAP sensor on the car still won't start, do I have to unplug the MAP sensor and plug it back in?Quote:
Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey
daredeezy619, read sections A and B in the link below:
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ics-46563.html
Hopefully, it will help you solve your problem.
Hi there, I came across this post looking for a fix to the same problem, I've tried just about everything mentioned in the last 7 pages with no luck.
Here's the situation:
Engine is a d16z6, ecu is p28.
Engine cranks but will not start, plugs are getting NO spark.
When I turn the key to "on" the check engine light comes on, and stays on, as well as the oil and battery lights.
I tried measuring the voltage between the right wire in the map señor and ground, its getting 8volts, which I see is far above what it should be getting. The other two wires in the map plug have 8 volts as well - Im sure this isn't good.
I don't hear ANY clicking of relays and what not - that I know of anyway, though I'm not sure 100% what its supposed to sound like.
One other weird thing to note, the main lights in the cluster (the ones behind the speedo and tach) will not work, but that same cluster works in a friends car, so its not the bulbs.
Also, when I jumper the cel connector, I don't get any codes, the light just stays on like usual.
Parts status:
My ecu is known good - it runs a friends car fine. I'v replaced the main relay, and checked all the underdash fuses, as well as the fuses in the engine bay.
I have really run out of things to do/check. If anyone here has any other suggestions I would be extremely grateful.
Hi. I have a 1993 honda civic si. Now I was driving on the highway when my battery light went on. Fine I know I was having battery issues(low battery, due to alt needing replaced)
So I was on my way to the shop( to replace the Alt) and just then car seemed to have stalled. So while I was still moving I tried to "bomb start" by releasing the clutch. But all that happened was dash lights went extra bright.
Now I towed it to the shop, changed the alt, but now my acg fuse kept on blowing, after 1.5 day's I finally solved that problem(by removeing the condenser plug(a/c)) that solved the acg(s) fuse blowing, but now the Ecu fuse keeps blowing when I switch the key to II.
Ok now at this point the car is bare bones naked I have the wiring harness from inside fully in my lap checking for continuity(second time) I also checked + changed the engine harness, and this problem keeps on happening. Re: ECU(under hood fuse continual breaking)
Things I've changed already:
Alt, ignition switch, under hood fuse box, under dash fuse box, engine harness, orange junction(due to broken wires).
Rear of the car is not connected, engine harness is not connected, starter sol is not connected. Pw mirrors are not connected, only power going to the main relay is from the yellow wire(12.65v).
Opened up the ecu, and there's no burnt smell, nor any evidence of burned board/connection.
Cannot see if the service engine light goes off, but as I remember the light stayed on.
Now also the main relay only clicks if I turn to start position,
Engine turns over, no fuel pump sound no nothing. Grrrrrr. I've been at this for 6 day's so far, no one wants to help me(but I understand)
Is it time that I changed the ecu?
Please help me.
3y3Ba11, my bet is the ECM is bad. Run the K-Test below:
The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt.
If that doesn't pinpoint the problem, run through the diagnostic tests in sections A and B below:
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219451
If the problem is still elusive, run through the tests below:
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post358044
The ECM fuse keeps blowing, because the ECM is shorting out internally. If the ECM is not working properly, your main relay won't work properly, either. Everything is downhill from there.
I guess that I forgot to mention that "I performed "all those test's"". Sorry.
ok now today I replaced the "ecu"(computer) with a non known working one(lol), but to my surprise the ecu fuse no longer breaks/shorts, but no crank(grrrrrrrr). Maybe just maybe I just forgot to hook up something, or wrong plug in wrong slot (engine harness).
The reason that I didn't change the "puter" was my pro honda friend told me that "it's not the computer that it's 2(or more) wires fused together, but after x3 continuity test + replace engine harness, and with nothing else connected except the ecu, he went to get me an ecu.
Also hmmmmmmm may this ecu's messed up also, because again I can't hear the fuel pump activate when ignition key in II position.
BTW re: ECM- is that also known as ECU/Computer?
Thanks for your great help
Yes.
If the CEL stays on, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Pos. II), then the problem is with the fuses, ECM, main relay, or ignition switch. Are you certain your main relay is good?
Is there a way to resolder the board of th ecm? I know the main relay you can.
The ECMs on Civics experience leaking capacitors, fried microprocessors, blown resistors, and a host of electron migration problems. I don't know how to troubleshoot and repair them. My recommendation is to buy a remanufactured ECM, with a lifetime warranty.
Whoa now I hooked everything back up and put the dash in, now there's only an SRS light. Nothing else +still won't crank. With the non ecu fuse blowing computer. Grrrrrrrrrr.
Any help please?
Hi me again; now my car started by changing the computer(ECU), I just forgot to put all the fuses back in.
Now it's from an automatic si civic, and the cel stays on , and give error code 19.
Is that only because my car is 5speed, and the ecu' from an auto?
That's a likely possibility.
Hello,
I am having a similar problem with my 1992 Honda Civic EX 4 Door with a 1.6L engine and manual transmission. This link has been extremely helpful in troubleshooting' this issue.
Symptoms:
1. Intermittently will not start -- no fuel, no spark
a. CEL stays on
b. Main Relay does not click
c. Fuel pump does not cycle
d. When the car does start a,b, and c are not true.
Testing:
1. K-Test
a. When CEL remains lit, no relay, no fuel pump cycle
- No / minimal voltage to MAP sensor
b. When CEL does not remain lit and the relay clicks' and fuel pump cycles
- 4.96 Volts to MAP sensor
2. Main Relay
a. passes all tests per Chilton's manual (x2) using car's battery direct as source
3. K-Test Verification
a. When CEL remains lit, no relay, no fuel pump cycle
- removed the connector for the "D" harness from the ECU/ECM
- turned key to "on" position
- looking straight on at the ECU/ECM socket measured the voltage on pins 19 (+) and 21 (-) or the 8th and 10th pin from the right on the bottom row of pins, measure no / minimal voltage.
b. When CEL does not remain lit and the relay clicks' and fuel pump cycles
- Same results as a. -- no / minimal voltage between pins 19 and 21
Observation:
1. looking at wiring harness for the "D" connector, there is not an actual wire in what would be pin 19.
Question:
1. Is my testing procedure correct
a. should I purchase the "test connector that provides in line test points for these pin positions
b. Am I counting the Pins correctly
2. Are the correct test positions on the 1992 honda pins 19 and 21 or are they different for this model year.
a. I have looked for connector info in my Chilton's manual but have not been able to find it.
Hello everyone I have the same prob and did everything that was said here and still no spark or any fuel...Quote:
Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey
What could it be?
I neede to know if anything I need to check besides ecu,main relay,new distributor, all fuses changed, new plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, all relays changed that have to do with car...
Still nothing
Should I just burn it and call it a day...
God please help me!!
LSVTECAL, does your Check Engine Light stay on, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II)? If so, perform the K-Test on the ECM:
The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.
You really should start your own posting, by clicking the button "Ask About Cars & Trucks." If you do that, I'll be able get your car running shortly and your prayer will be answered.
1993 honda civic dx hatchback.car will not start!
I changed main relay
Fuelpump
Distributor
Ecu
And still won't start
Don't know
And sinking fast
Don't know what else to put in it
Please help
Now the fuel pump kicks on but no spark
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