Skip the rubbing alcohol. Check the label, and you will find it is part WATER. The rest may be isopropanol, less effective. Buy the regular fuel line deicer, it is the straight methanol you want. If the car set in damp weather, you could have water in the gas problems. It is always best to check simple, cheap things like water and filters before replacing an oxygen sensor. In general though, listen to Crocivic. Unlike me and some others here, he has a Honda and a manual.

Actually the alcohol obsorbs the water, even though it contains water, it sucks the water up and actually gives the gas a boost. Even a auto parts store will tell you that. Actually I've gone as far as using 80% (isopropyl) not isopropanol alcohol to run a engine. But the thing of it is, you have to look around for the high concentrated stuff for it to give affects right away.

If your oxygen sensor is good now, and your fuel injectors are good, then the next most probable cause for your problems is a clogged fuel filter. When was the last time you replaced your Fuel Filter? Manual states that it should be replaced every 4 years. It sounds reasonable that a clogged fuel filter would resist fuel flowing to the injectors, and lack of fuel would make the car stop.

Does the car react better to acceleration now? Does it jerk while driving?

I just now remembered that you said you have 2 injectors only, that means you do not have an Injector Resistor Box, so that is eliminated as a possible cause for problems. If I understood you wrong, let me know and I will tell you how to check your resistor box.

Edit: I just now noticed that you said, in your first post, that you changed the fuel filter. Is your idle set too low?

That's right, I have a dual fuel injection system - so no resistor.

I only started it a couple of times on my driveway last night so I can't tell if it's still jerky. Will try driving it around tonight.

The fuel filter was one of the very first things that I changed (found lots of sediment in the old fuel filter when I poured out the remaining fuel). I have yet to check the fuel pump and the filter sock on it... with all the crud in the fuel filter, I'm wondering if there's a lot in the tank?

I will try adjusting my idle, but my idle seems OK before it cuts out??

I guess I will try the deicer stuff too...

Not that anybody would want to add it to their gas tank, but isopropanol and isopropyl alcohol are 2 names for the same thing.

Do check the pump filter first then.

I also avoid driving with just a few liters in the tank left. Who knows what's lying on the bottom of my tank.

Yeah the tank could be full of crap.

You mentioned you changed the main relay and checked it as well... I'm just curious to know: what brand main relay did you get? Also, have you checked the computer for error codes again since the last time you said you did?

The relay brand is "Mitsuba". There is only 1 blink on the ECU when I start the car - no more errors.

I went to check my fuel pump filter and I discovered that I need to remove the fuel tank to get access to it... ahhhhh... I think this "do it yourselfer" has reached the end of the road... If there's crap in the tank, I think my only option is to get it professionally cleaned.

Is there anything I can add to my tank to break the crap down?

No not really, a tank cleaning and a filter change should be done for that.

Still taking the bus...

Do you guys think it may be an issue with my Alternator?? I have a lot of symptoms associated with Alternator problems... will be bringing in my battery for testing as well (I think I drained/killed it with all the cranking and boosting).

I think I mentioned connections already. If you are having electrical problems too, you really need to go through and make sure all the connections to the battery, solenoid, starter, and alternator are clean and tight. That includes where the battery is grounded to the body or engine, and any ground straps between the body and engine. Also, a wire could be broken inside the insulation and only making contact part of the time. Wiggle the wires around with the engine running and see if it misses or stalls.

Just wanted to say "Thanks" to everyone's valuable input and to put some closure on the issue I had with my 1991 Civic DX.

After may long hours in the garage, I was finally able to pinpoint the starting/running issue with my civic. The problem ended up being a bad igniter.

In reviewing this case, you may notice that the igniter was changed very early on in the troubleshooting process. The problem here is that the first igniter was bad (came from a salvage yard). This is not to say that parts from the salvage yard are bad... In fact, the second igniter that got the car running is also from the salvage yard. So beware, when using parts from a salvage yard...

Also note that a bad igniter has many many symptoms of other problems so be careful when diagnosing.

Thanks again!

Glad you worked it out...

Enjoy your ride!

I have a trouble with my car (91 crx hf)(105 000 miles)the car was working fine until I came to house from work I parked the car and went to sleep.Next day I woke up I was going to the store I tried to start the car it wouldn't do anythithig; it's pretty funny it never gave me trouble to start I tried to start the car straight from the starter without usig the switch, it does start now but it won't stay runnig. Any idea somebody what might be wrong with the car?

There is a FAQ thread on this forum about Honda Civic not starting. Did you go through it and checked everything mentioned there? ECU error codes?