Ok, I rotated the distributor CCW. I now get a muffled pop noise every 3-4 seconds when cranking, not a boom though (small backfire I assume? ). But still no start. I have also developed a whining/buzz sound after cranking and leaving the key in the II position, it goes away when turning the key back. It is definitely coming from the engine/back of engine and is not the fuel pump.

The pop/small backfire sounds like the timing is still retarded too much. I would remove the valve cover and the timing belt covers and check the timing marks. Make sure the timing belt is not off a tooth and that the timing belt is "banjo" tight on the front. Set the timing belt tension at TDC on the compression stroke. When the tensioner is loose, rotate the crankshaft 3-teeth counter-clockwise to properly tension the belt. Afterwards, torque the tensioner bolt to 33 lb.-ft. After that, I would remove the spark plugs and check each cylinder's compression.

Are the main relay, wiring harness, and ECM the same as what originally came in your Civic? Is the whining/buzz sound coming from the main relay?

The timing belt is off by at least 1 tooth. I am in the middle of doing the timing belt right now, I will do the compression test after if I can get the kit. Otherwise I have a leakdown kit and just need an extra set of hands.

The main relay is OEM and the correct part for my chassis. The car is a 1992 Civic CX hatchback, the motor is a 1994 Acura Integra LS. Both chassis and motor are non-VTEC and OBD1.

As for the harness, all interior harnesses are original. I got a 'RYWIRE' harness that goes from the ECU to the engine since original harness had missing plugs. The ECU is OEM and the correct part for the motor I have. Hope that helps you a little better.

The buzzing sound is coming from the rear of the motor/engine bay somewhere. It definitely isn't the main relay or the fuel pump.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Make sure the timing belt is not off a tooth and that the timing belt is "banjo" tight on the front. Set the timing belt tension at TDC on the compression stroke. When the tensioner is loose, rotate the crankshaft 3-teeth counter-clockwise to properly tension the belt. Afterwards, torque the tensioner bolt to 30 lb.-ft.

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When I rotate the crankshaft pulley, the timing gets thrown off again. I just got done with my 2nd try on it and am stumped.

Did you remove the crankshaft pulley bolt, crankshaft pulley and key, upper and lower timing belt covers, and concave timing belt guide, in order to set the timing mark on the crankshaft timing belt pulley with the pointer on the oil pump? Did you set the TDC marks on the camshaft pulley with the cylinder head upper surface, loosen the tensioner adjusting bolt, install the timing belt, properly set the tension on the timing belt (TDC on the compression stroke), and torque the tensioner adjusting bolt to 33 lb.-ft. If you did, the timing should not change.

Ensure the timing belt is the proper one for the engine. The pulley bolt should be torqued to 134 lb.-ft., when the threads are dipped into clean engine oil.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Did you remove the crankshaft pulley bolt, crankshaft pulley and key, upper and lower timing belt covers, and concave timing belt guide, in order to set the timing mark on the crankshaft timing belt pulley with the pointer on the oil pump?

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There is a white indented line on the crank gear, I will look right now but.. Isn't this to make sure I'm at TDC on the exhaust stroke? If so, I am at TDC.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Did you set the TDC marks on the camshaft pulley with the cylinder head upper surface, loosen the tensioner adjusting bolt, install the timing belt, properly set the tension on the timing belt (TDC on the compression stroke), and torque the tensioner adjusting bolt to 33 lb.-ft. If you did, the timing should not change.

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The arrow on each cam gear is pointing up and the notches on each side of the cam gears are pointing straight at each other. And cylinder 1 is at TDC on the exhaust stroke.

I think what is messing me up is when I rotate the crank 3 teeth, I took this to mean 3 teeth on the cam gears. Thus throwing everything out of time when tension is applied... right?

Once you line up the timing marks, install the timing belt with the tensioner bolt loose but the spring attached, rotate the crank bolt several turns to ensure everything works properly. Stop rotating the crank bolt counter-clockwise, when you are at TDC on the compression stroke (you can feel the resistance) and all the timing marks are lined up. Then, rotate the crank bolt counter-clockwise 3-teeth on the camshaft. This should properly tension the timing belt; then, torque the tensioner bolt to 33 lb.-ft. This will "set" the mechanical timing of the engine.

It just occurred to me that you might have a DOHC engine--if so, you need to consult a shop manual on the procedure.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

Then, rotate the crank bolt counter-clockwise 3-teeth on the camshaft. This should properly tension the timing belt; then, torque the tensioner bolt to 33 lb.-ft. This will "set" the mechanical timing of the engine.

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This is the part that is confusing me... After rotating the crank CCW 3 teeth on the camshaft, the UP arrows on the camshaft gears won't be pointing UP any longer, correct?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

It just occurred to me that you might have a DOHC engine--if so, you need to consult a shop manual on the procedure.

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I do, but you are still correct in the steps. Only difference seems to me marking points, which I found in the manual.

After you get the timing marks lined up and the timing belt installed, the timing is fixed. It doesn't change when the crank bolt is rotated 3-teeth past TDC on the camshaft pulley, while it's on the compression stroke--this only increases the tension on the tensioner. If you reflect on this, you'll say, "Now, I understand."

See if your manual tells you some other way to set the timing belt tension for your DOHC engine.

I've got it! Tension is tight and my markings all line up! I'm going to eat supper then button everything up and try to crank her over again. Depending on what happens, I'll update the status and run compression tests tomorrow. Thank you for your time, much appreciated!!

Great.

Timing Belt Installation Tip: Temporarily install the crank pulley bolt, before installing the timing belt guide, covers, and crankshaft pulley and key. This allows you to triple check everything and have room to get a torque wrench in to torque the tensioner's adjusting bolt.

After doing the timing belt, I still get nothing when cranking it over. Even after messing with the distributor timing.

The leak down test results are:
#1 = 69psi
#2 = 69psi
#3 = 72psi
#4 = 70psi

Each cylinder was at TDC for its own test and the max I let through was 80psi. According to Honda specifications, I am at/around the 10% loss threshold.

Fuel Pressure: I also acquired a fuel pressure gauge that mounts onto the top of the fuel filter. I believe the normal fuel pressure is around 45psi, while my gauge is reading 22psi. Is fuel pressure the same whether the car is cranking or actually running?

Not good numbers on either count. Fuel pressure will increase somewhat when running, but 22 psi is woefully low and preventing the fuel rail from fully pressurizing. With such a low number, the engine won't start. It looks like the next step is to install a new fuel pump, unless the fuel filter is really plugged.

Brand new fuel pump a few weeks ago. I will replace OEM fuel filter and try to flush out the fuel line.

It's likely the fuel filter.

Ugh... the new fuel filter did nothing, pressure is still at about 22 psi. I guess the gauge could be wrong. Possibly a fuel pressure regulator problem?

Thoughts:

. Ensure there's more than a token amount of fuel in the tank.

. Turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), until the CEL goes out, then to OFF. Repeat this procedure at least three more times. On the final attempt, turn the ignition switch to START and see if the engine starts. This should, hopefully, fully pressurize the fuel rail.