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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

It's running? What did you do?

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No sounds normal turning over just won't start , is easy way to check icm or coil packs ?

Was it running before you decided to do the belt?

If it was running before, then it should run now unless you did something wrong. If the ICM doesn't fix it, I would pull it apart and make sure all the timing marks are where they are supposed to be.

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Originally Posted by Mbarn965

Can I bypass CPS. Cause gear on balancer that it rides on is broke .

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Are you saying that there is something wrong with the Crank Position Sensor?

My experience has been that bench testing ICMs and coils is pretty much a waste of time. Instead, I recommend replacing them every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

You can take your ICM and have it tested on a Well's machine at AutoZone. My experience has been if it tests bad it really is bad. However, if it tests okay, it may or may not work properly. The test doesn't simulate the conditions under load (heat) well enough.

Does the Check Engine Light come on and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON?

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Originally Posted by odinn7

Was it running before you decided to do the belt?

If it was running before, then it should run now unless you did something wrong. If the ICM doesn't fix it, I would pull it apart and make sure all the timing marks are where they are supposed to be.



Are you saying that there is something wrong with the Crank Position Sensor?

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The crank pulley , balancer is one piece with a gear for CPS , the gear is broke in a section

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Can I bypass CPS. Cause gear on balancer that it rides on is broke.

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No. If there's something wrong with the "tone ring," that's your problem. That totally throws the timing off. Your ICM and coil, then, are likely fine. You need a new crank pulley/tone ring, if it's really broken.

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Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

No. If there's something wrong with the "tone ring," that's your problem. That totally throws the timing off. Your ICM and coil, then, are likely fine.

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Thank you , does tone ring separate from pulley and balancer or is it one piece ?

I'm not sure on your truck. It may bolt on to the back of the crankshaft damper. Regardless, you'll need to remove it again and then you can see what you have.

The "trigger wheel" often has 35 evenly spaced teeth and one gap where a 36th tooth would be. The gap lets the CKP sensors signal the PCM when the crankshaft is 60 degrees before TDC. Trigger wheels are tough--just make sure there's really something wrong with your's.

[QUOTE=TxGreaseMonkey;3373804]The "trigger wheel" often has 35 evenly spaced teeth and one gap where a 36th tooth would be. The gap lets the CKP sensors signal the PCM when the crankshaft is 60 degrees before TDC. Trigger wheels are tough--just make sure there's really something wrong with your's.[/QUOT
Yep , if I could I'd text you a pic, two or three teeth missing . 7576965020

That's the solution to your problem. Try salvage.