Read the bottom of that page... ODB0 codes will flash on the ECU itself, not the check engine light, without prompting. That's under the passenger side carpet on the firewall. Can't miss it... its under a gold anodized metal plate if they bothered to put it back.

I don't have that plug either. Swapped a Twin cam D Series engine into mine in 2000 (a 1989 engine) and about 5 years ago swapped the B Series into it. So I've rewired TWICE now since mine was a DX and not an Si when I started.

But I'm willing to guess you have no codes... any code usually trips the Check engine and it stays on.

But its best not to assume anything.

Ah I see then I don't have any codes stored dang

Checked plugs seem to be fine, getting a blue spark out of them. Now the only thing I haven't changed in the ignition system is the distributor housing.Not sure where to go next computer isn't throwing a code?

If its more than one tooth out of time it should trip a code... and still start and run... even at two... three you run a risk of valve contact and if it got as far as four you already bent valves and have bigger problems. You should be abel to HEAR if that happened, compression test will easily prove it too, as in you won't have any.

Check the obvious and make sure your rotor cap hasn't come loose. If the set screw fell out it WILL... trust me, cost me a tow bill once when it did and I had NO tools to fix it along the road.

Remember you need three things for it to run... Ignition, Fuel and Compression... if you have all three and doesn't run it's a matter of the timing they are delivered.

I checked the rotor cap its good, ah yeah I am not hearing any issues with the valves. I don't have a compression tester ,but it the car is getting fuel and spark. If the distributor housing sensors weren't working it should throw a code too.

I am getting frustrated no codes no start belt intact and not loose. At most it could have jumped a tooth or two,but again no codes. Hmmm

If it jumped even two teeth it will start and run... not with a lot of power but it would run.

Hearing a grossly bent exhaust valve would take listening to from the tailpipe when someone cranked. The intake from the throttlebody. I could tell the sound was off, can't guarantee it would be obvious to everyone however.

Should be easy to check the timing anyway... crank it until the TDC mark is at the arrow. There is more than one mark keep in mind on the crank pully. There are timing marks on the camgears they shoud be verticle or a tad pigeon toed... both slightly towards each other like they are pointing at a common mark 20 feet or so above the car. Hondas are reverse rotation, meaning they run counter clockwise... never turn one backwards even a few degrees. It will jumpt time

That's a good point. I have a question the car does seem to be getting a good amount of fuel. Could it flood? Can fuel injected vehicles technically flood? If It were the sensors in the distributor housing it wouldn't start correct?

Oh yeah you can flood it, easier than you might think... and it's a bear to start if it is. You have to stop trying and walk away for maybe an hour before you try again when that happens.

There are a LOT of things that could keep it from running... but assuming its getting fuel when it should, spark when it should, and has sufficient compression... and no codes... then it should at least try to start. One of those is not as it seems if it won't.

Yeah It sounded like it stumbled earlier ,but won't start, it becomes more apparent it won't start the more its cranked. That's why I was wondering if it was flooded. Do you have a diagram of the way timing should look?

Your problem is likely distributor related. Most aftermarket distributors for Hondas have not worked at AMHD. I only recommend using genuine Honda distributor housings, where it's fine to install an aftermarket ICM and coil to keep the cost down. Your engine may be sparking but not at the right time. In all likelihood, one or more internal distributor sensors (CKP, TDC, or CYP) are bad. Try installing a known good distributor.

I do have msd Coil and Msd ICM as well as MSD cap. I don't know about the housing though, it maybe aftermarket? I will look at finding a honda one to replace it.

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Originally Posted by Darrek

yeah It sounded like it stumbled earlier ,but wont start, it becomes more apparent it won't start the more its cranked. thats why I was wondering if it was flooded. do you have a diagram of the way timing should look?

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Here are some diagrams... but by the time it was far enough off to not start you would have serious problems due to valve/piston contact.

Yeah my marks for the cams are not facing straight up currently? They are both on a angle one slightly more than the other. I'm not sure about the crank mark.

Never mind I was checking it at top dead center, still however one cam sprocket seems to be set ahead of the other by a two teeth? Which doesn't make sense. Also went out and cranked it and it almost started.

Wasn't checking it at top dead center*

You have to use the 0 BTC mark when checking the cam timing.

You use the others when doing Ignition timing.

If one jumped time... it might be harder to start but should start...

If one IS in fact two teeth off, set it right... then make SURE you set the tension correctly or its going to happen again. Too tight you risk frying the bearings in the tensioner or water pump... and either will take out the belt and do serious engine damage.

Too loose and it will jump time and if it goes far enough serious damage will occur.

I'm guessing it's the front cam (the exhaust) that is off, right? That's the one I had the trouble with when I used a Gates timing belt... before I went and got an OEM belt.

Your ignition timing is also subject to the rear cam (intake) timing as the Distributer is driven off that one.

Sort out the cam timing first... then sort out your ignition timing, IF it needs adjusted. But it might not.

The cam closet to the front of the car is the one that seems to be off a little bit. The other seems OK. I am going to have to take it to a mechanic to make sure and let him take care of it. I don't have the resources for to change the belt

Good idea... its a hard task to explain since the manuals use cryptic specifications... like Nm etc... I've done this enough I know what is in the ballpark and when something isn't right... but its hard to pass that on to another, particularly when it all has to be paraphrased.

If you lived say... next door, it would be a LOT easier to show hands on. If any of that makes sense.

One tooth off you will feel and notice if you have driven it when it was right.

I think you have several possible things wrong, and TXgreasemonkey might be on target with one of them...

And I'm just trying to extablish some easy to check baselines are as they should be... as they can affect other things that can compound the issue. I like to check the obvious before replacing parts. And I like to check one thing at a time... it saves causing other problems before you find what went wrong first. Trust me... thats a hard learned lesson.