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-   -   98 Honda Civic Won't spark (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=479733)

  • Jun 16, 2010, 07:41 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Power to Distributor Test. Turn ignition OFF. Disconnect the 2-P connector from the distributor. Turn the ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between BLK/YEL (+) terminal and body ground. There should be 12+ volts read. If not, repair open in BLK/YEL wire between the 2-P connector and ignition switch.
  • Jun 17, 2010, 06:06 AM
    ibensous

    - I've tested the alternator and its working properly

    - I'm going to set the spark plugs out now and hopefully if the engine is flooded this will clear it.

    -I have no way of checking the compression because I don't have a compression gauge. Is there any way to tell if it's the compression otherwise?
  • Jun 17, 2010, 06:31 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Only if it sounds like there's no compression, which may not be reliable.
  • Jun 17, 2010, 06:32 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Did you perform the Power to Distributor Test?
  • Jun 17, 2010, 07:16 AM
    ibensous

    I did and the distributor is getting power.
  • Jun 17, 2010, 07:36 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Does the CEL come on and go off normally, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II)?
  • Jun 17, 2010, 07:44 AM
    ibensous

    Yes
  • Jun 17, 2010, 08:23 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    If your new distributor is good, I don't know why your Civic doesn't start. Everything seems to checkout.
  • Jun 17, 2010, 08:52 AM
    ibensous

    Well I just spoke with Honda and they said my timing belt might be spinning to fast but I don't see how that'd happen.
  • Jun 17, 2010, 08:58 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    The timing belt may have slipped or the tensioner loosened. I wonder if the previous owner had the work done at Honda. If you think that's a possibility, be careful. It's an interference engine, where a lot of damage could be done to the valves and pistons. Have it towed to Honda. You may want to take the cover off and check things out for yourself.

    Did you mark the distributor and mount, so the timing would be close when you installed the new distributor?

    If the TB slipped, that could easily explain the original code that was thrown. Timing (spark) is based on TDC of Cylinder #1.
  • Jun 17, 2010, 09:12 AM
    ibensous

    I took pictures of which way the router was facing and which way the other end of the distributor was facing and that's how I put the distributor back in.
  • Jun 17, 2010, 09:18 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Because of the offset shaft, you can't install the distributor incorrectly. If you did not mark the distributor and mount, then the timing may be too far retarded. If you don't believe there's a problem with the timing belt, loosen the 3 distributor mounting bolts and rotate the distributor slightly counterclockwise. This will advance the timing.
  • Jun 17, 2010, 09:47 AM
    ibensous

    Well I've given up. I've spoken to several of my dads friends who are mechanics and they've taken a look at the car and no one can figure out why its not turning so I'm getting it towed to one of their shops. Thanks for all your help GreaseMonkey. I'll keep you posted as to what the problem(s) are when the car finally starts running.
  • Jun 18, 2010, 08:21 AM
    ibensous

    My main relay was faulty and it needed to be changed.
  • Jun 18, 2010, 09:55 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Glad to see you got it running.

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