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-   -   1999 Honda accord intermittent stalling (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=478697)

  • Oct 6, 2010, 03:11 PM
    ashlym84
    Hey! Honda finally got back to me and said I needed sparkplugs, sparkwires, coil igniter, distributor cap, and something that starts with a "r".
    He said the entire ignition system...

    What do you think?
  • Oct 6, 2010, 03:33 PM
    ashlym84
    Distributor cap, distributor rotor, coil ignitor, spark plugs and sparkwires for $800.00..
  • Oct 6, 2010, 04:32 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Honda's analysis agrees with my original recommendation of replacing the Ignition Control Module and coil.

    Buy the parts yourself at O'Reilly Auto Parts. Then, take my instructions on how to replace the igniter, coil, and rotor to a reputable mechanic and just have them install your parts. You should be able to save a bundle. $800 is way too high.

    If you buy a BWD brand distributor cap and rotor, from O'Reilly Auto Parts, they come with a lifetime warranty. They are better than Honda's distributor cap, since they come with brass (not aluminum) contacts inside and have a lifetime warranty. With my instructions, you can replace all of the parts they suggest at a fraction of the money.
  • Oct 6, 2010, 05:21 PM
    ashlym84
    I'm going to purchase the main relay tomorrow...
  • Oct 6, 2010, 05:25 PM
    ashlym84
    Thank you so much for your assistance, you are awesome!! :)
  • Oct 6, 2010, 05:26 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Is the catalytic converter fine? These new components should restore "like new" reliability and performance.
  • Oct 6, 2010, 05:40 PM
    ashlym84
    The dealership did not mention the code to me (they had my vehicle all day today). I will pick up my vehicle tomorrow. I'm going to purchase 1 part (main relay, ICM, coil) at a time because of my financial situation.
  • Oct 6, 2010, 05:43 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    In my opinion, the ICM is the most crucial components that likely needs replacing. Again, save your money and don't buy it from Honda. It's too bad you don't have a friend who would do the work for you free of charge. It's easiest, however, to do the ICM, coil, and rotor at the same time, since the distributor cap needs to come off.
  • Oct 6, 2010, 05:55 PM
    ashlym84
    I should by the ICM first?
  • Oct 6, 2010, 06:00 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    It's really best to replace the ICM, coil, and rotor. My bet, however, is that the ICM is what is really failing. Your call.
  • Oct 6, 2010, 06:05 PM
    ashlym84
    Okay, I'm doing price checks on ICM on O'Reillyautoparts.com: $49.99 & $191.99, which brand do you prefer? BWD?
  • Oct 6, 2010, 06:18 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    For the money and warranty, go with the Master Pro for $49.99. At AMHD, we have not had any problems with aftermarket ICMs. Just make sure you double-check and get the right one for your exact car.

    AutoZone also has an ICM for $49.99 for your car. Either one should be fine.
  • Oct 6, 2010, 06:37 PM
    ashlym84
    Okay, great, I will keep you posted! :)
  • Oct 7, 2010, 09:39 AM
    ashlym84
    Hey TGM, my mechanic replaced the Coil, I drove my vehicle around for about 10 - 15mins... check engine light came on... went to autozone; code P0420: catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1.
  • Oct 7, 2010, 09:52 AM
    ashlym84
    Oh, I will be replacing my CV axle, I hear a clicking sound on my side..
  • Oct 7, 2010, 09:57 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Is he going to replace the ICM? If so, make sure he applies the heat transfer compound to the back of the ICM--otherwise, it won't last long.
  • Oct 7, 2010, 10:01 AM
    ashlym84
    He wanted to wait on it first, I just called the shop about the code, he said he wanted to wait on it and maybe that the system does not recognize the new coil. When I picked up my car this morning from Honda, the check engine light was not on. I bought the ICM, it's still in the box.
  • Oct 7, 2010, 10:05 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    Really, there's no need to wait on the ICM and there's no need for the system to recognize the new coil.

    It's best to remove the coil before replacing the ICM, anyhow. It provides more room to get to the ICM. I don't know where he's coming from. I still believe the ICM is the real problem.
  • Oct 7, 2010, 10:10 AM
    ashlym84
    Okay, I can get him to put it on when he replaces the CV axle. What about the code: catalyst system efficiency below threshold? Air leak? Gasket?
  • Oct 7, 2010, 10:19 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey

    I would wait and see if replacing the ICM solves that problem. Make sure he uses a code reader or scan tool to clear all codes, once the new ICM is installed. Afterwards, that code may not come back.

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