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parasitic power drain level

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In the home it's called fantom power or the power drain that happens when "nothing" is aparently running like parked in the driveway with everything off.

A very small amount of electricity is used to keep your radio presets, and allow the clock to keep time and to save some computeed parameters for driveability into the computer.

After the battery is disconneted, it should take a few "driving cycles" to learnt he paremters for the engine. During this time the engine may have driveability problems, although not severe. A "driving cycle" is manufacturer dependent. Usually it contains a few cold starts and some amout of time driving at a steady speed at operating temperature.

Yes, the battery discharges a small amount by sitting too.

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Originally Posted by Clough

What is that, please?

Thanks!

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What that is... basically is what the current draw is from the battery with everything turned off. With the radio... ECU, clock... there will always be a very small amount, it won't be zero. But that amount SHOULD be low. It shouldn't effect the vehicle unless it sits a few months in summer, maybe a month in winter without being started and charged. Not sure of a good ballpark number but its likely the low milliamp range. Its really not hard to check... just an ammeter between either cable and that battery post with everything off. Anything approaching an amp or even more is a real problem and would need isolation.

Here's my two-cents on parasitic battery drain:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post241804

Had the truck towed to the service station, today. They charged the battery and said that the alternator was fine. One of them even drove the truck around for awhile.

I took it tonight, the auto parts store again. Someone else checked it out, much more thoroughly than the last person at the same store did.

Turns out that it's the alternator bearing. It's not always spinning(?) correctly to produce enough of a charge.

Clough, I'm curious what the total cost of this repair was? If you don't care. Thanks

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Originally Posted by Clough

Had the truck towed to the service station, today. They charged the battery and said that the alternator was fine. One of them even drove the truck around for awhile.

I took it tonight, the the auto parts store again. Someone else checked it out, much more throughly than the last person at the same store did.

Turns out that it's the alternator bearing. It's not always spinning(?) correctly to produce enough of a charge.

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That explanation doesn't sound right at all. If the bearings were bad its going to make a hell of a racket at worst, or feel rough as you spin it by hand at least... unless its seized up forcing the belt to slip its going to spin (the alternator) its normal RPM's.

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Originally Posted by parttime

Clough, I'm curious what the total cost of this repair was? if you don't care. Thanks

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Hi, parttime!

I don't mind sharing this at all!

The total cost for towing and looking over my truck, charging the battery, adding some gas and brake fluid and driving it around, came to $74.00 something.

I think that they were giving me a break though, because they were unable to find the real problem. Plus, I know them and taught some of the kids in school.

There is no charge at the auto parts store when they install something that I've purchased from them.

Thanks!

What exactly did they install?

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Originally Posted by Clough https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/images...s/viewpost.gif
Had the truck towed to the service station, today. They charged the battery and said that the alternator was fine. One of them even drove the truck around for awhile.

I took it tonight, the the auto parts store again. Someone else checked it out, much more throughly than the last person at the same store did.

Turns out that it's the alternator bearing. It's not always spinning(?) correctly to produce enough of a charge.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by smoothy

That explanation doesn't sound right at all. If the bearings were bad its going to make a hell of a racket at worst, or feel rough as you spin it by hand at least... unless its seized up forcing the belt to slip its going to spin (the alternator) its normal RPM's.

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Hi, smoothy!

There's only one bearing in this particular type of alternator. It does make one heck of a racket while I'm driving!

Thanks!

Clough, I've use this link HB Truck - Nissan Forums: Nissan Forum for years,it has really knowledgeable nissan truck people, good place for info. I hope your fixed up now.

All alternators have a front and rear bearings. Your Nissan alternator has an Alternator Drive End Bearing (Timken 303CC) and an Alternator Commutator End Bearing (National 201CC). The front drive end bearing tends to go first, because of the belt load. Alternator rpm is approximately 6 times engine rpm.

New problem...

New alternator has been installed. Also have a new battery. All connections are secure and clean.

Battery continues to be drained.

Ideas anyone, please?

Thanks!

See if this link offers any help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post241804

Clough, does the battery die just sitting around, like overnight? You may have a ground somewhere, has there been a radio or cd player installed? I once had similar problem, by pulling fuses one at a time, was able to detrime the bad circuit and was able to find ground and repaired with tape. Good luck

To add to TX's link.
I like to start with a charged battery, read the voltage, start the vehicle. Verify it increases.
3 most common things, is a bad battery, an alternator that is not charging, or a drain.
If battery and alternator are working correctly, it is likely a Drain, and I would as do as TK's
Link mentions, place a bulb between Negative post and negative cable. With no draw, the bulb will not light. It will likely light due to electronics needing a constant feed.
I like my Clamp on ampprobe, clip it around the cable, and it show amps drawn. Remove each fuse to determine the culprit(s).
Quick note about the DC amprobe, it will work on the positive or negative cable, after you clamp on, zero it, open the door, or turn on the lights, it should read a negative number, if it reads positive, unclip and reconnect 180 degrees, now the numbers shoul d read negative.
If it is running it should show a positive amps.
Just because a manufacturer says it is a AC/DC amprobe, many only do AC Amps, but do DC volts as well, a little missleading.
I would check your Main ground on Block/Starter?

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Originally Posted by parttime

clough, does the battery die just sitting around, like overnight? You may have a ground somewhere, has there been a radio or cd player installed? I once had similiar problem, by pulling fuses one at a time, was able to detrime the bad circuit and was able to find ground and repaired with tape. good luck

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I don't really know if the battery dies when my truck isn't running. No electronics are on in the truck, other than when the inside overhead light is on.

What do you mean by repairing with tape, please?

Thanks!

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Originally Posted by Stratmando

To add to TX's link.
I like to start with a charged battery, read the voltage, start the vehicle. Verify it increases.
3 most common things, is a bad battery, an alternator that is not charging, or a drain.
If battery and alternator are working correctly, it is likely a Drain, and I would as do as TK's
link mentions, place a bulb between Negative post and negative cable. with no draw, the bulb will not light. It will likely light due to electronics needing a constant feed.
I like my Clamp on ampprobe, clip it around the cable, and it show amps drawn. Remove each fuse to determine the culprit(s).
Quick note about the DC amprobe, it will work on the positive or negative cable, after you clamp on, zero it, open the door, or turn on the lights, it should read a negative number, if it reads positive, unclip and reconnect 180 degrees, now the numbers shoul d read negative.
If it is running it should show a positive amps.
Just because a manufacturer says it is a AC/DC amprobe, many only do AC Amps, but do DC volts as well, a little missleading.
I would check your Main ground on Block/Starter?

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If I were to go out and buy the testing light, what specifically would it be called, please?

With getting into all of the technical terms, I'm getting a bit over my head here!

Thanks!

What do you mean by repairing with tape, please?


I found a bad place in a wire and taped over it to prevent it touching metal and draining her battery,(like leaving a dome light on). That was after the local radio shack installed a new cd player, they didn't do a very professional job. Clough, I take it you don't normally do your own repairs?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by parttime

What do you mean by repairing with tape, please?


I found a bad place in a wire and taped over it to prevent it touching metal and draining her battery,(like leaving a dome light on). that was after the local radio shack installed a new cd player, they didn't do a very professional job. Clough, I take it you don't normally do your own repairs?

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I normally do all of the repairs that I can that aren't unusual. This would seem to be unusual in that I've already "covered the bases" so to speak with replacing the battery as well as the alternator.

Any and all advice is much appreciated! If it were a piano or other type of musical instrument, I could fix it! Cars and trucks? Really very much out of my league these days! Back in the 1970's, tuning them up was no problem! These days, it's really hard to know what I'm doing with them...

Thanks!

A problem like yours can have good mechanics pulling their hair out. Good luck