Make sure she orders the ECT Sensor, not the ECT Gauge Sending Unit or the ECT Switch. With a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor, the engine may not start, may be hard to start, or it may die unexpectedly. Personally, I would first try replacing the spark plugs and skip the ECT Sensor for now.

Once you get it running okay, here are some recommended maintenance items:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219991

I used the link you gave earlier for the ECT Part #SU 5584. We ordered it as a standby part. Plugs first, then O2 sensor, and ECT last. Both sensor and ECT sensor can be taken back. We just want to be prepared. Thank you for all your help. I will let you know as soon as I get it going what solved the problem.

Blessings.

My mechanic took the car to Autozone and said that a code came up show a MAP sensor. What I was told that the seal sometimes go bad and you get a vacuum loss. What do you think about that?

Replaced all the sensor parts, and still no joy. MAP sensor is showing on the diagnostics. Turning to that next.

Very possible. Did you replace the O-ring to the MAP Sensor? These sensors (transducers) are extremely reliable. Clean the connector--it's okay to spray this connector with WD-40.

Did you replace the spark plugs?

Changed plugs. Did all that was suggested. O-Ring on the MAP sensor was fine. Will suggest cleaning the connector. Trying to locate a MAP sensor. Will come in on Monday.

Ok, replaced the MAP, and no joy still! This is very frustrating. Mechanic says that there is a little foam in the oil. Water? Compression test was good @ 100 lbs per cylinder. He says that it seems like there is a potato stuck in the exhaust like it is not breathing. But no change when the manifold was cracked off. Idles good. But no power when revving it up. Any other suggestions?

Blessings

You may need a new mechanic. The compression looks way too low.

Compression Test. Crank engine over at least 7 compression strokes. In a healthy engine, compression should build quickly. Low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually increasing pressure on subsequent strokes, indicates worn piston rings. Low compression readings on the first stroke, which doesn't build during successive compression strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (could also be a cracked head). If adjacent cylinders have equally low compression, there's a good chance the head gasket is the problem.

Cylinder Compression Pressure:

Standard: 184 psi
Minimum: 135 psi
Max. variation between cylinders: 28 psi

A leaking head gasket and water in the oil (foaming) go together. If tests confirm this, check the head for warping and the valves for damage. It could get expensive ($2,500).