If the car turns over, then would that rule out the ignition switch right? As I am at work now, I am contemplating what is wrong and asking others some questions. The only reason I think the pins are not throwing and voltage is because there has to be an open somewhere. Personally, I feel it has to be a ground because my wire harness looks great. I will keep you posted as to what the outcome is with mechanics looking at my car after work. Actually, I have to go now because the pilots need something and the bird is rotating and ready to fly...

No. "ON" is one circuit through the main relay and "START" is a different circuit. ON and START have different contacts in the starter switch. Power flows from the battery, through the ignition switch, to the under-dash fuse box, and to the ON or START circuit of the main relay.


Thought: You have no power to the ECM because the first relay in the main relay is not being energized.

The main relay actually contains two individual relays. One relay is energized whenever the ignition is on which supplies the battery voltage to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the second relay. The second relay is energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on, and when the engine is running which supplies power to the fuel pump.

Test: Turn ignition to ON and listen for the "click" of the first relay.

Nothing, I have nothing. After all my hard work I get nothing. I had the Chief Aircraft Electriciansmate help me, he knows his stuff and fixes aircraft, still rotating mind you while there is Navy Seal Team awaiting insertion, before they take off and I work right along side of him. I am at a complete loss, I have no car to get me around, I need a car to get to school tomorrow and I am ready to hit the bar to get ****faced via the bus.

I checked every freaking fuse, I pulled all the grounds, took a wire brush to the grounds along with the frame and bolts, I also pulled all my connections to make sure there was nothing inside blocking continuity also assuring that the pin was aligning with the connector to complete the electrical path too.

After all that, I put the key in, I only hear one click from the key switch, no two aditional clicks from the relay and I still freaking get the solid Check Engine light. I am going to check all my fuses again and try again. If that does not work, I am hopping on the bus to the bar. I bought this honda for reliability so I can actually focus on school and keep my mind clear, I never thought it would bring me down to this level. I really don't feel like burning all my paycheck on this car, I am totally lost. I don't get paid a lot and I do not want to spend my hard earned money I got saved from repairing aircraft in balad iraq all while getting mortered to just fix a Honda of all things.

The only is, it has to be the ignition switch

I'm sorry for your frustration, especially when you are trying to do the right thing.

See if it could be the throttle position sensor. Turn the ignition switch ON, disconnect the 3P connector to the Throttle position (TP) sensor, and wait several minutes and see if the CEL goes out. If the light goes out, replace that sensor.

Now, see if it could be the MAP sensor. Reconnect the TP Sensor. Turn the ignition switch ON, disconnect the 3P connector to the MAP Sensor, and wait several minutes and see if the CEL goes out. If the light goes out, replace the MAP sensor.

Nope, tried them both and the CEL still stays on along with the oil light (the only two lights that are on). Also with the ignition switch, I am leaning toward this. I am researching on how to test for this...

I doubt it is the ignition switch because all the article symptoms I read are pointing that the car would be fine, and randomly die on the road. My car cranks, with out the replays clicking, the CEL staying on and no spark.

Never give up!

If the CEL stays on, the causes are ignition switch, main relay (which we know is new) or the ECM. I agree that the ignition switch is not most likely. I still feel that it's the ECM. I like Cardone remanufactured ECMs, with a lifetime warranty, from O'Reilly Auto Parts. Get them to match Advance Auto Part's price and get the lifetime warranty. Put a new one in (10 minute job) and I bet your car starts and runs like a top. Remember to disconnect the negative battery cable before installing. If it's not your ECM I will be greatly surprised. I don't believe that it will be a connectivity problem--I haven't seen it yet on Hondas. They have good wiring and connectors. It's the core electrical stuff that wears out--ECMs, main relays, ICMs, and coils. Those are the usual culprits I've seen. To me, the odds are 90% that it's the ECM. I've wasted lots of time checking connectivity issues over the years--I was usually barking up the wrong tree. These Honda ECMs are not bullet-proof. Heat, vibration, and water trashes them. I've been told the electrolytic capacitors on the 1989-94 Civic ECMs are prone to leaking.

I do not plan on giving up, I just am really low on money right now and I do not have a lot to work with other then the money in savings for which I need in case of emergency.

There is not O'Reily autoparts stores around me. I am going to shop around for the cheapest ECM covered under warranty :-D

Thank you for all your help. I really appreciate everything you do for others helping them as well as myself.

First thing tomorrow is me hitting up kragen auto parts to get an ECM with a 1 year warranty for $260.

You are a great American and it is I who appreciate everything you are doing to protect this nation, during this very difficult period in our history.

My bet is you are stationed in San Diego. I know Kragen Auto Parts is all over California. I used to work at the Pacific Missile Test Center, Point Magu, CA.

No one in the san diego area has any in stock. I tried Kragen, Auto Zone and Napa :-/

davin, go to the site below, order the computer, and request 2 day delivery.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...ine%20Computer

Is the original ECM Honda Part No. 37820-P06-A50?

Try:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...ine%20Computer
Or
http://rockauto.com

OK, so all day today (I have off from work from doing work-ups from the weekend) I have been working on this car. I have a co-worker who has a 1993 honda civic LX automatic and I took out his ECM from his car and put it in mine. I disconnected the battery and everything and when I went to turn the key, no clicking from the relay and the CEL still stays on. Then when I put the same ECM into his civic, it fired right up!! Now I am thinking it could be the ignition switch, I have no other ideas :-/

Only thing else I can think of is some sort of interlock associated with the transmission or antitheft device. Pretty unbelievable.

Did your Electriciansmate look at it?

Yeah, he really could not figure anything out because all my grounds are good, my wire harness looks good, and my battery is at 12volts. He is also ASE certified I might add. He took a fluke to a lot of the goodies and everything read fine. We where also going to try the 12volt light bulb test, but we forgot it :-/

I am about to look at the switch right now and see if it looks pitted or anything. I think it may be that because my low beams do not work as well (the bulbs are new and the fuses are good, I was thinking it was the switch, but it could be an open leading from the ignition switch). This is the only thing I can think of :-?

Check these sites out on Honda ignition switches:

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...tch/index.html

http://techauto.te.funpic.org/ignitionswitch.php

*goes out and hotwires the car*

It has to be that because it says that if you do not hear the clicking sounds of the car, then it is the ignition switch!