casacujo, focus on Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP), ignition switch, and ECM (particularly the main ECM ground).

Having the same problem... going to go fix it and I will post exactly what was needed.

Hi there. 1999 accord LX, same problem. After reading this I will go and fix it and post exactly what was the problem.
Recap according to this post:

1. Electrical portion of the ignition switch(most likely)
2. MAP Sensor
3. Main relay.

Note: when I first approached my personal mechanic and he plugged in the computer to analyze the problem the computer read 361 or 381. He did not explain to me what that meant but replaced my distributor and was shocked to find out later that the stalling-mid driving was still occurring. After I get it fixed I will post the exact fix that eliminated the problem on my car.

Thank guys, this post probably saved me another 2-300.00 for a fix that I did not need from my not so smart mechanic.

I am having the same problem with my 99 accord I broke down and took my car to the dealer. They said that it was a bad ignition back that inside the ingnition things were worn and that it was shorting out. The repair with Honda is about $448.00

My vehicle was running great until I replaced the alternator that when I started with this new problem gas needle goes way below the e and that's when my car turns off I was able to get it started as long as the vehicle had more then a quarter of a tank but know its not starting what could be the problem??

katyagundez, perform tests, in Honda Sections 1 and 2, below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...les-46563.html

Electronic ignition switch it happened to my 1998 and 99 accord and yes the rip offs at the dealer said that they had been repaired a few years back with the recall had to bite the bullet and paid 70 bucks for each one took care of my problem for how long??

Diagnosis, troubleshooting, and repair/replace instructions at http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html

Hello there everyone, I too myself have the same situation. My 1991 honda crx will shut power completely on the road then turns back right on. I have notice I have some issues with starting the car up sometimes. I was wandering if anyone can give me any advice on it. After reading these answers I'm leading towards the ignition switch but not quite yet. Anything would be gladly appreciated. Thanks!

I am experiencing the identical problems with my 1999 Accord. I purchased it from a friend in 2003, had the ignition recall fixed in 2005(wasn't experiencing any problems), and it cut off me this weekend just like yours did. Have you had any additional problems since repairing it the last time?

My 1999 Accord 4 cyl-5 speed shuts off weekly while driving and also while just idling. I have read a lot of forums and I am sure to start with the ignition wiring... I have had really good luck lately by using my alternate key whenever I have this condition. I will caution the dangers of pulling the key out and swapping ignition key while the car is rolling in traffic. This is only the second week of using and swapping the key a few times and its better. In fact, I am using a spare key mostly now and I hope to have a good report. If all goes well, I may just continue with spare key.

Dharris, The faulty Honda Ignition Switch is a Real Problem, It is likely your problem. Did one recently, same year as yours.
Get any radio codes and disconnect Battery
You have to remove the plastic piece under the dash, and the screws from the plastic piece under the column, then physically pull apart, get any radio codes and disconnect Battery.
Remove 2 screws securing the actual switch(with wires).
I had to dissemble the end of the plug to fit through an opening, you will see what I mean, they are a little tricky, take your time, draw wire positions ahead of time. Some make cut the wires and crimp, I wouldn't.
They Plung into the top of the Fuse Panel.
If you have a test light or meter and want to test the terminals on the back of the switch, to verify it IS the switch, I will dig up the colors for Bat, Ign, ACC. They call it Position I, II, and III.
Good Luck

If you have or get a $5 test light from an auto parts store.
On the Back of the switch, check for:
With Key On, Power to the IG circuits, which is the Black/Yellow and the White/black(white with black tracer). Do not get this confused with the Black with white tracer which is the Starter Wire,
Constant 12 volts is the White wire.
You will likely have to remove the plastic to have access, then drive until it fails and then look for the voltage, If its not there, the switch is bad.

Hi!

I have a 1999 Honda Accord EX (automatic) and I've been running into the following problem for the last month:

While driving my car it will automatically die as described in prior posts via others. In addition when I do try to turn it back on, it just cranks and doesn't turn over.

Currently, I've had the distributor and the crank sensor replaced and it continues to have the same issue.

My question is.. does anyone else have any suggestions or fixes? Is the recall still around in which I can submit a request for it.

I will check my MAP sensor and ignition switch in the meantime. Thanks in advance!

That year is famous for Bad Ignition Switches, look at back post for colors to test.
TX Greasemonkey will llikely say ICM, and It could be either.
Easy test is the Ignition switch, can be tested on the backside of the switch, or large plugs with large wires above the fuse panel.

1999 Honda Accord Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information

Looks like the Black/yellow and/or the White/black is your Ignition, need to test with a meter or light in the On Position.

White is constant hot at the Ignition, if fuse is blown, won't be power to Ignition circuits as well.

The problem may reside with the distributor. Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas don't work at AMHD. Most of the remaining ones are unreliable and problematic. I only recommend installing a genuine Honda distributor, where it's fine to install an aftermarket Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil to keep the cost down.

MAP Sensors are extremely reliable and never go bad.

Just a note on anyone having to change the switch, you mave have to draw a diagram of the end of the plug and color of wires to dissemble and reassemble and, you may have to use glasses to see how to remove pins?
Due to the plug being larger than one of the metal pieces on steering column. Small screwdriver works well.

I had the same problem with my 99 Honda accord. I called Honda they said that my car wasn't under the recall. I ended up replacing the electrical portion of the ignition switch ($52.00) and continued to have the same problem. I have since replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and battery.. still to no avail. Any suggestions? I'm thinking it's the coil/ or ICM

Thanks
Jake

Jake99Accord, replace the ICM and coil and your problem should be solved. Apply silicone heat transfer grease to the back of the new ICM.