I have been going crazy checking everything possible, when I try to start my car a check engine light comes on. It is code 15 which is ignition output signal. The engine cranks and the fuel pump primes. I checked my coil for resistance and voltage and it passed. I tested the ICM (igniter) for voltage and checked out fine and I still replaced it because there is no actual test to preform to see if it is faulty. I have also checked and swaped my map sensor and it still has no spark. So I replaced the yellow green wire from the ecu to the ICM (igniter) which is suppoes to be the input output signal for the ignition and there was still no spark. I disconnected the blue rpm signal wire from the ICM (igniter) and there was still no spark. I also checked the main relay and it was receiving voltage and there was continuity. I also tested for continuity the ckp, cyp and tdc sensors and they checked fine. I also tested the ELD electrical lod dectector which is under the fusebox and that was fine the only thing I have yet to check is the ckf sensor. Is there something I missed or overlooked. Has the ecu gone bad.

You may have two problems. If the CEL comes on and stays on after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON, then the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, main relay, ECM, or ignition switch. The Code 15 is likely indicating a stored code for a bad ICM. Your number one priority must be to get the CEL to go out after 2 seconds or the car won't start.

. Check all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter.
. Perform the K-Test on your ECM, which I suspect may be bad. Here's how to do it:

K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt.

I am having the same problem I changed the headgasket on my car button it all back up and no spark checked the coil tested 12.6 checked everything in the distubetor tested all good qustion could it be the crank sensor?? I checked all the grounds and all good *** do I do I know its not the ecm the car ran before the tear down . Anyone know the what it might be??

Allout, if the CEL comes on and goes off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the problem is likely with the distributor. If all under hood and under dash fuses test okay, when checked with a test light or multimeter (be very thorough), consider replacing the igniter and coil, since bench testing these components is virtually useless:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Did you install the timing belt properly? This link may help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post2772415