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    kenhuth's Avatar
    kenhuth Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 31, 2010, 03:55 PM
    91 honda civic stalled and won't start
    Car stalled at a stop light and now won't start. Seems like the fuel pump is working a getting gas to the injectors. Spark is good on all plugs. Tried a new main relay - nothing. Any ideas? ECU doesn't throw any codes.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
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    #2

    Jan 31, 2010, 04:05 PM

    Does the CEL go on for 2 seconds and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?
    kenhuth's Avatar
    kenhuth Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jan 31, 2010, 08:20 PM
    Yep - CEL on for 2 sec and then out.
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    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
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    #4

    Jan 31, 2010, 08:42 PM

    The problem resides with the distributor. Even though you have spark, it may be firing at the wrong time. Therefore, I would replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

    If the problem persists, replace the distributor housing (Honda genuine only) and install the new ICM. If this fixes the problem, it indicates one or more internal distributor sensors are bad. This is very common on Honda distributors, which usually only last 50,000 to 100,000 miles.
    kenhuth's Avatar
    kenhuth Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jan 31, 2010, 08:51 PM

    Thanks, I'll look into that. Any way to test the Ignition Control Module and coil?
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    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
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    #6

    Jan 31, 2010, 08:55 PM

    Bench testing these components is a waste of time. The tests are very unreliable. Instead, I recommend replacing these problematic components every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. Shop for price and warranty.
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    kenhuth Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jan 31, 2010, 08:56 PM

    If the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil went bad, would it cause the car to suddenly stall?
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    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
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    #8

    Jan 31, 2010, 09:00 PM

    Absolutely. ICMs are legendary in doing this. If you want to go budget, first try replacing only the ICM. However, this also happens from coils breaking down under load (heat). Heat is the enemy of both of these components.

    Since your CEL comes on and goes off normally, I know the problem is not with the ECM, main relay, fuses, or ignition switch. Instead, it is with the distributor--I'm certain.
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    kenhuth Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Jan 31, 2010, 09:01 PM

    Thanks again, I'll try this tomorrow and post the results.
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    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
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    #10

    Jan 31, 2010, 09:04 PM

    Great.
    kenhuth's Avatar
    kenhuth Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Jan 31, 2010, 09:10 PM

    Any chance that the timing belt slipped/jumped and caused the stall and no start?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
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    #12

    Jan 31, 2010, 09:11 PM

    Here's how to replace the ICM:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

    Be sure to apply the heat transfer compound to the back of the ICM.
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    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
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    #13

    Jan 31, 2010, 09:12 PM
    Sure, that's possible; however, not common. Sudden failures on the road are almost, invariably, electrical-related. For Hondas, this normally means ICM or coil failure.

    ICMs have a microchip inside that needs to open and close the primary circuit of the coil at the exact time the ECM says. If the chip starts to fail, the timing is lost and the engine stalls. You may still have spark, but it's just not at the right time.
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    kenhuth Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #14

    Jan 31, 2010, 09:18 PM

    Is there a chance that the timing belt could have slipped/jumped for some reason causing it to stall and not start?
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    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
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    #15

    Jan 31, 2010, 09:20 PM

    Again, there's a chance that could have happened. If it did, there's a chance your engine has been seriously damaged, since it's an interference engine. I just don't think that's a high probability event.

    Remove the oil filler cap and see if the camshaft turns, while someone else cranks the engine. If it turns, the timing belt is likely fine and I would not focus on it as a likely source of the engine not starting.

    It's not uncommon, at AMHD, to have 2 or 3 Honda distributor problems a day--they are just that common.
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    kenhuth Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #16

    Jan 31, 2010, 09:24 PM

    I kind of doubt it too, seems like I would have heard something or engine got rough then stalled. This didn't happened, just died - like something went bad(like the ICM).
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    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
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    #17

    Jan 31, 2010, 09:28 PM

    If you had a TB problem, the valves and pistons are toast. I know Honda electrical systems very, very well. I'm positive your problem is with the distributor.
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    kenhuth Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #18

    Jan 31, 2010, 09:28 PM

    Camshaft does turn.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,756, Reputation: 5596
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    #19

    Jan 31, 2010, 09:37 PM

    That's what I figured. Usually replacing the ICM ($64.99, AutoZone) and coil solves the problem. In your 1991 Civic, you should be able to have the car back on the road again in 45 minutes or less, assuming the distributor housing is fine. My gut is the problem is with the ICM.
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    kenhuth Posts: 22, Reputation: 1
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    #20

    Feb 2, 2010, 10:16 AM
    Put the ICM on and - started right up! I also replaced the rotor,cap,plugs and wires just to have everything fresh. I'm supicious with the rotor, the plastic was melted around the screw that secures it to the shaft and kind of seems like it was slipped down. I had to chip away the plastic to get to the screw. Maybe the rotor wasn't hitting the points at the right time... just a thaught. Thanks for your help.

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