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    eternity8642's Avatar
    eternity8642 Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Oct 15, 2010, 06:57 PM
    1993 Honda accord with a stalling problem
    OK I have a 1993 Honda Accord with about 155,000 miles on it I just bought it and am not sure what all has been done or not done. These are the things that I am aware of: new timing belt, new main relay, new water pump, new fuel pump and filter. So when I am driving especially at slow speeds the RPM's fluctuate and it stalls when you slow down. The RPMS drop to 400, and tries to catch but it dies out. We can turn it off and it turns right back on. But in the matter of a mile it may stall 2 times. We took it to a mechanic and they aren't sure what is causing it the code that is coming up is a 55, which is a faulty code-and now there is no code. The ABS light is on. Not sure what to do to fix the problem and it appears the mechanic doesn't either. Any help would be great!! Thanks
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Oct 16, 2010, 06:18 AM

    Replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil will solve the stalling problem:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

    For the ABS problem, check the ABS reservoir, located on the front driver's side. See if the fluid is empty. If so, take the car to Honda for servicing--they will be familiar with the problem. Honda had major ABS problems with Accords in the early 1990s.
    eternity8642's Avatar
    eternity8642 Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Oct 19, 2010, 03:42 AM
    So I replaced the ICM and the coil. It didn't fix the problem. I ran fuel injector cleaner through it also. Now it seems that when you put the car in park, the RPM's go from about 15/1600 down to 900 and back up. This usually goes for a good 2 to five minutes. The fuel gage also registers all the time. I thought vehicles gages worked when the key was turned over. Not sure if the problem is fuel or what... I do appreciate the help so far and can someone offer some more assistance?
    eternity8642's Avatar
    eternity8642 Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Oct 19, 2010, 03:44 AM
    Comment on eternity8642's post
    One more thing, the car seems to die more when it reaches normal operating temps... help!
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #5

    Oct 19, 2010, 06:39 AM
    Thoughts:

    . Purge all air from the cooling system--add coolant, until it comes out of the air bleeder bolt.

    . Check/replace the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor, which affects fuel injector pulse width. The ECT Sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor), whose resistance decreases as the engine coolant temperature increases. It provides a richer mixture when cold, leaner mixture when hot. They become corroded, due to not changing the coolant frequently enough, flood the engine, and waste a tremendous amount of fuel.

    . Clean throttle plate, throttle body, and Idle Air Control Valve (IACV):

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1054149

    . Adjust idle speed to 750 rpm.

    . Read this link:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post842969
    eternity8642's Avatar
    eternity8642 Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Oct 23, 2010, 03:04 PM
    OK. So long story short, thermostat was bad. Replaced it. Fixed the flow problem I think. The dying problem is still there. I noticed today that the fuel gage said it was about 3/8 of a tank. I wanted to try something so I , filled the car up. I have only went about 120 miles since last fill up but the car took 11.1 gallons. The car doesn't die out unless the gage shows half a tank or less... Whats the deal? New fuel pump so could it be a relay, trash in the tank, pickup.. Got to get this issue fixed before I keep spending money.
    Thanks for the help so far... I would appreciate any more you have.
    eternity8642's Avatar
    eternity8642 Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Oct 30, 2010, 07:45 AM
    Comment on eternity8642's post
    All right. Third time I have planned and tried this. Once the car has gone 18 to 124 miles, the dying out starts. As long as I go and fill the car back up with gas, the problem fixed. So is it the pick-up, or the float? Do I need a whole new tank?
    eternity8642's Avatar
    eternity8642 Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Oct 30, 2010, 07:47 AM
    Comment on eternity8642's post
    Sorry, I mean 118 miles to 124 miles... about a half tank used. (not much on spelling)
    im_me2's Avatar
    im_me2 Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Jul 2, 2012, 09:49 PM
    I have the same car with the same problems. Mine starts to stall when I get down to 1/4 tank of gas. If I keep it at at least 1/2 tank or more, it seems to not do it. I've changed/checked all of the same part's as you as well and the problem is still there. Did you ever manage to figure out what the problem was yet?
    im_me2's Avatar
    im_me2 Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    Jul 2, 2012, 09:51 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by im_me2 View Post
    I have the same exact car with the same exact problems. Mine starts to stall when I get down to 1/4 tank of gas. If I keep it at at least 1/2 tank or more, it seems to not do it. I've changed/checked all of the same part's as you as well and the problem is still there. Did you ever manage to figure out what the problem was yet?
    It actually starts stalling around half tank but only when I'm stopping. The less gas I have, the worse the problem is.

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