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I have the same problem. Found the following bulletin today. Not sure if it applies to this exact issue, as I know there was one other similar issue with GE fridges.
ServiceTechHelp.com :: GE Refrigerators Bulletin, Replacement of Defrost Heater under warranty with Kit # WR51X10101.
EDIT: After looking at the part I am not surte that it is going to help the water line freezing. IF GE will step up to the plate on that issuw why won't they on the water line issue??
Same proble with our and then it started working consitantly. But NOW, it started dripping when we went to bed and did $2000+ damage to out subfloor and floating laminate on top of the subfloor. In addition to mold issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by sboku
Our valve started leaking. GE REFRIDGERATORS SUCK!! I wonder if they made any improvements with this double-valvue, or if someone sells a better double valve that can take its place? Its only 120vac solenoids that run that valve. Surely a better part can be adpated in?
I found out this monring that here at work (GE btw) three other people have had floor damage due to this leaky valve. Has anyone thought of a class action law suite against GE Appliances?
Same proble with our and then it started working consitantly. But NOW, it started dripping when we went to bed and did $2000+ damage to out subfloor and floating laminate on top of the subfloor. In addition to mold issues.
Our valve started leaking. GE REFRIDGERATORS SUCK!! I wonder if they made any improvements with this double-valvue, or if someone sells a better double valve that can take its place? Its only 120vac solenoids that run that valve. Surely a better part can be adpated in?
I found out this monring that here at work (GE btw) three other people have had floor damage due to this leaky valve. Has anyone thought of a class action law suite against GE Appliances?
I experienced the same problem with the water dispenser not working at all. The problem is a frozen line in the door. I'll skip the hassle of dealing with GE. Based on all of the other postings you should know by now that GE does not stand behind their product and that you should never purchase a GE appliance.
That said, I purchased an electric heater kit specifically designed to fit the GE side by side refrigerators with the water dispenser. I purchased it from repairclinic.com for $42.50 plus $6 for shipping. The item # is 1381601.
Installation was pretty easy and took a total of 15 minutes. On a scale of 1 to 10 for difficulty (10 being the most difficult), I would rank it as a 4. The instructions that came with the heater kit were VERY helpful. The heater kit should not cost $42.50, but it beats dealing with GE. You can install this yourself. I installed mine at 9pm and by morning the dispenser was working again.
Steps:
1. Pry off plastic frame.
2. Lift control board out.
3. Disconnect the 3 wire harnesses from circuit board.
4. Unscrew the dispenser unit. (4 Phillip Screws).
5. Peel and stick the heater in the recesses area. See instructions from heater kit for picture on where the heater should go.
6. Splice wires according to instructions that came with the heater kit. Splices are provided. Very easy to do. Just follow the directions. Splice one heater wire to the harness red wire (position 2) and the other heater wire to the (black&white) harness wire (position 6).
7. Plug in the just the one harness to the control board and in 60 seconds you will start to feel the heater area getting warm. That's how you know it's working.
8. Put everything back together and you are in business.
MacGyver (1/8" foil duct insulation),
davette59 (a foam insulation board about 3/4 " thick and blue in color), and
chem-prof (cheap foam sleeping bag mattress (~1/3 inch or 1 cm thick) made of a polyurethane foam),
Are your interior insulation fixes still working as of today, 7/15/08?
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kenw00d,
You mentioned that the instructions came with the heater kit but I'm not sure if I have the same model refrigerator that you have. My model number is GE side by side model TFH24PRSBAA.
When you installed your heater kit item #1381601, in step-1 you say "Pry off plastic frame". Which plastic frame is that? Is it on the exterior or interior of your door? The inside of my freezer door is one complete molded unit so I'm guessing that the plastic frame you pried off is on the outside of the door. If that's right, could you clarify what the plastic frame you pried off looks like and what it includes? Thanks!
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To everyone,
I have an idea if I can get into my freezer door. Instead of installing a heater, why not use the ambient room temperature as the heater? What if we drill a hole or two through the outside of the freezer door right below or near the water dispenser nozzle? Maybe this could let ambient room temperature into the door at the right places to keep the tube above freezing temperature.
If someone can tell me how to open up the water dispenser assembly, I'll see if this idea can work.
Thanks,
NoviceFixer
I have had GE out to my house three times for three different problems with my fridge.Today cost me 96 dollars to tell me the water line feeding my dispenser was frozen.It was accutaly the dispenser tube that held the ice.He offered to fix it for 298.00 dollars yes that's right.The additional part that is not installed on my model was 44 dollars.I paid the 98 dollar service call and held a hair dryer on the tube.10 Minutes.later I had water.I can order the part myself and install it its not hard to install and comes with instructions.The part is called a dispenser water tube heater part number wr49x10173 if your handy enough to install it yourself.It gets placed under the dispenser hose and wires into the harness behind the panel that houses the water / ice buttons.A very simple repair.
The issue is the water line is freezing in the door due to insufficient insulation from the factory. I looked at this forum for several solutions and this is what I did.
At first I thought the filter was clogged up so I ordered a 3 pack from a web site (not GE's)and installed the filter. This was no help.
I took my wife's hair dryer and ran it over the back side of the freezer door directly behind the water and ice dispencer. It took about 5 minutes and it finally thawed about a 1/4" long piece of ice enough for it to come through the tube and clear the line.
I then took about a one foot piece of .035 diameter string trimmer line and pushed it up the water dispenser tube until there was about 1" hanging out. The water will dispense fine with the line in the tube. The line froze again within 3 hours and I simply pulled the trimmer line out and it removed the frozen piece of ice.
Now for the solution-
I called the G E Appliance line at 888-348-7563 and talked to a Customer Service Rep at a call center. I told her if she would send me the Kit (# WR51X10101) I would make the repair myself. The Kit costs $42 and change at an Appliance Parts web site. She said she would send me the Kit for $20. I told her this was clearly a design problem and that there should have been a recall. I asked her to send the kit for free and she said hold on for just a minute. She came back and asked for my address and said she would ship the Kit to me at no cost. We will see.
It amazes me that a company like GE which prides themselves on their quality program and spends millions of dollars on Six Sigma will not come clean and fix a design problem the correct way with a recall.
I will let you know when I receive my kit. Until then I will just deal with the string.
Is your refrigerator a stainless steel one? I read somewhere while researching, that the heater works on stainless steel doors. Wonder if it will work on vinyl type doors? Can't find that link again now.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Mickster
My water dispenser has not frozen again since my previous post. But if it does freeze again my new plan to fix it is to cut an 8 inch square hole in the flat area on the inside of the freezer door, right behind the water spout. Then remove the insulation as best as possible and replace it with new insulation.
Then I'll get a 1/8 or 3/16 inch thick plexiglass cut to 9.5 inches square (call this the cover). Since the flat area behind the water spout is 10 inches and the hole will be 8 inches, this will give me an overlap of 3/4 inch all around. Then I'll drill holes around the edges of the cover, apply a silicone bead around the edges and secure the cover to the freezer door using stainless steel sheet metal screws.
I don't think the silicone will stick too much and will still allow me to remove the cover in the future. I might even apply some vaseline on both surfaces to insure the silicone bead does not stick but still acts as a gasket.
If the plexiglass cover allows moisture through it, then I'll need to apply aluminum tape on it or use a piece of aluminum for the cover instead. Any comments on this idea, pro or con are welcome.
NoviceFixer
My refrigerator is a White Side by Side. Model number GSS22VFPC.
I think I would try to get them to send the parts kit before cutting holes in the door.
Please post your results after you install the kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Mickster
Thanks much,
NoviceFixer
My water Dispenser was not working but the ice was fine. I tried the hersey bottle and tubing to defrost the ice blockage but on my model there is a little plastic piece inside and it would not fit. So I just defrosted it. The weed cutter line worked but was a pain, every two hours it would freeze up and I was pulling that darn string. I defrosted it one more time then did this below.
I went to OSH got a sheet of insulation pad (the foil type that helps keep pipes from freezing up in the winter.)
Cut it into two 10"x 10" sheets, then put some heavy duty velcro inside the now dry back part of the freezer. Joined the two sheets up with more velcro and stuck it on back side of the freezer door. IT WORKED!! Four days now no freeze up. I am a little scared to pull the weed line out, but will do so in a couple more days.
I'm surprised that the velcro on the edges don't allow moisture to seep in-between the insulation and eventually cause freezing. Would have thought that foil tape would have been necessary.Quote:
Originally Posted by vonal
Thanks for posting your fix. Please do post again in a month or two and let us know if your fix is still effective.
NoviceFixer
I ordered the wrong kit from GE. I ordered Kit# WR51X10101. This is a Defrost Heater Kit. They sent me the kit free of charge so I called them and tried to return it. They told me to keep it.
I explained that I really needed Kit WR49X10173 which is the Dispenser Water Tube Heater Kit. They sent it Next Day by Fed Ex also free of charge.
I installed the kit this morning at 10:00 and it took about 15 minutes to do. Just follow the instructions provided by kenw00d in a previous post. GE included the instructions with the kit:
1. Pry off plastic frame.
2. Lift control board out.
3. Disconnect the 3 wire harnesses from circuit board.
4. Unscrew the dispenser unit. (4 Phillip Screws).
5. Peel and stick the heater in the recessed area. See instructions from heater kit for picture on where the heater should go.
6. Splice wires according to instructions that came with the heater kit. Splices are provided. Very easy to do. Just follow the directions. Splice one heater wire to the harness red wire (position 2) and the other heater wire to the (black&white) harness wire (position 6).
7. Plug in the just the one harness to the control board and in 60 seconds you will start to feel the heater area getting warm. That's how you know it's working.
8. Put everything back together and you are in business.
My water dispenser has not frozen up since I installed the heater kit this morning. Previously it would freeze in about an hour.
I must commend GE for sending me the parts (FREE OF CHARGE) but, it is a shame you have to go through all of these hoops to fix a problem that should have been the subject of a recall to begin with.
I suspect the problem has to do with the control board at the rear of the refrigerator.Before supplying the model number check the rear of the refrigerator and see if you can identify a small rectangular panel with no vent holes that is maybe 4 to 8 inches wide and 12 or so inches tall. It looks like a simple cover plate held on by three screws. Remove and see if there is a printed circuit board inside. If it has a board inside that's the problem. Still think I'm guessing. Pull the Ac cord for about 10 minutes then plug cord back. Leave overnight as if you never unplugged it. Quite likely the relays will start chattering and the symptoms will get worse. If all this happens replace the board and the problem will be resolved. If you understand and can use a soldering iron and have a volt/ohm meter check the two 470ufd 25 volt caps and replace.. Let me know how you make out. This is the first time that I'm using this site,just joined so I'll include my email for your reply. It might be duplicated I'm not sure Its [email protected] good luck
I'm new to this forum. I thoght I'd offer the following sugestion. I've experienced the same problems. No water from the dispenser but ice is OK. I'm an aquarium enthusiast and I found a plastic bottle in my aquarium supplies that works perfectly in spraying hot water into the dispenser tube whenever it freezes. It has a very narrow spout that fits perfectly in the tube that dispenses the water. After about 5 minutes of squirting hot water into the tube (with a towel in hand) I'm able to melt the ice tube that is cloging the systsem. I know this is a temporty fix, but I thought I may help
It's been two months now, no freeze up's in the line.Quote:
Originally Posted by NoviceFixer
I just had the freezing water line on my GE side by side stainless fridge. The fridge is 6 years old. I didn't notice anybody mentioning it, but has anybody noticed that maybe this is due to frost buildup right behind the water/ice dispenser? It seems that our round ice door doesn't shut all of the way which is letting air come into the freezer and frost up around the ice dispenser on the door. I'm wondering if this could be causing a freeze up problem.
Dave
I read mostof this forum... with my wife's hairdryer, I freed the ice in the dispenser then inserted the trimmer line... working great. I then called G.E. to ask about any recall pertaining to the heater. Their reply was that I had the new doors installed in 2006 and the upgraded version would have included the heater. If so, mine has failed. Would anyone know it it was included in the new doors? Thanks, dj
I tried this with my fridge and after 2 minutes with the hairdryer the lever that you push to get water/ice had MELTED -- now not only is the water function still not working, but my icemaker is not usable. I am VERY frustrated with this recommendation
For the past 2 years, I have been having the same problem as everyone else on this thread. The water would just stop dispensing one day, but the ice would still work fine. We tried various tricks, but ultimately we found that the hair dryer solution worked best. We'd open the freezer door and blow the hair dryer at the back of the water dispenser unit for a few minutes, then leave the freezer door open for awhile. If that didn't solve it, we'd repeat as necessary. Sometimes it worked after 15 minutes, sometimes up to an hour. And once it was working again, it often lasted for several months. But during the most recent incident, it would freeze back up with 24 hours. So after about a week of this, I decided to look for a more permanent solution, which is what lead me to this thread.
I first tried calling GE. As many others have found, they were less than helpful. They said I could pay $99 to have a technician come out to diagnose the problem, and then I could "possibly" get the part sent to me for free. Or, they would sell me the Dispenser water tube heater kit at a "discount" for $60 plus shipping.
Instead, I decided to take kenw00d's advice (see post #83) and purchased the kit directly from repairclinic.com (item #1381601). I paid $42.50 plus $6.46 shipping, and I had the kit 7 days later. Installing the kit was just about as easy as kenw00d said, although I have to admit it took me longer than 15 minutes, mostly because I wasn't quite sure I was doing things right, so I double-checked the instructions every step. But once I was done it was obvious that there really aren't two ways to do it, and I'm sure I could do it again in 15 minutes.
The one piece of advice I would have is that when the instructions say "pry off plastic frame", they're talking about the control panel on the front of the freezer, with the water/ice/light buttons on it. I had pictured that you would access the water line from inside/behind the freezer door, but in fact you get at it from the front/outside, without ever opening the freezer door. To get the control panel off, you have to look up from underneath, and you will find two little holes with plastic tabs. Using a small screwdriver or similar tool, you need to push up on each of these tabs until it releases the panel. From that point on, the instructions are fairly self-explanatory.
Another piece of advice: they recommend that before you put everything back together, you test the heater to make sure it's getting power (it will feel warm to the touch). It turns out you can also reach the heater with your finger from the outside once everything is reassembled. So this allows you to reassure yourself that it's still working correctly after putting it all back together.
This comes in handy, as with my case, the line doesn't thaw right away. The instructions suggest that it may take up to 24 hours to thaw the line, but in fact, mine still wasn't working after 5 days. At that point I gave up waiting and manually defrosted it with the hair dryer again. This does give me some concern that the heater is not in fact working well enough to keep the line from freezing again. But it was encouraging that the line defrosted much quicker than usual. And the water is still working 2 1/2 days later, whereas before it was refreezing within 24 hours. I'll post some updates as to our progress going forward.
It seems that this kit is designed to solve this exact problem (the shape of the heater is clearly designed to match the location where you install it), so if this doesn't do the trick, I don't know what else would. So if anyone else wants to try this, please don't hesitate to ask questions.
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