Thanks especially to davette59 for his foam board idea.
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Thanks especially to davette59 for his foam board idea.
One month now and the foam board is still working well.
Wanted to update everyone as well. I did successfully install the heater myself. I actually found a place that price matches internet prices and I got it for under $35. The price don't really matter though cause GE reimbursed me the purchase price. As far as installation goes, it was very easy (came with instructions) and took me longer then what I thought only because they tell you to wait a minute or 2 and test the heater with your finger to make sure it is heating up. I could not feel a difference in 2 minutes. You have to wait longer then that (at least 5 min. or more). And if you have an infrared thermometer, you can periodically check the temp. on the heater to make sure it is doing what it is supposed to. Worked great for me and it was the only way I could tell it was heating up. Works great and have not had a problem since. Keep plugging away at the GE reps on reimbursement and you should have the same luck I had. Good luck!
Wanted to update everyone as well. I did successfully install the heater myself. I actually found a place that price matches internet prices and I got it for under $35. The price don't really matter though cause GE reimbursed me the purchase price. As far as installation goes, it was very easy (came with instructions) and took me longer then what I thought only because they tell you to wait a minute or 2 and test the heater with your finger to make sure it is heating up. I could not feel a difference in 2 minutes. You have to wait longer then that (at least 5 min. or more). And if you have an infrared thermometer, you can periodically check the temp. on the heater to make sure it is doing what it is supposed to. Worked great for me and it was the only way I could tell it was heating up. Works great and have not had a problem since. Keep plugging away at the GE reps on reimbursement and you should have the same luck I had. Good luck!
Wow - wish I would have found this website months ago! Our Hotpoint (GE) side-by-side frig is about 4 years old also. We have probably be dealing with the frozen water line issue for about year. Started happening every 4/5 months, then gradually went to freezing every other day! Used to put warm water up the line to unfreeze it, that worked - but was pretty annoying! Called GE they said there hadn't been any problems that they knew of! Well - two days ago woke up to water on the floor around the freezer side, the front panel had quit working, and it wasn't cooling anymore. Had a GE tech out today - blown circuit board (4 years old - seriously). Asked him about the water line - and he said if I fix the circuit board he would "throw in" a heater for the water line! So, after $266 our frig is working again... What a deal - ha! I am going to call the GE number that was listed in a previous post and complain again! If I knew earlier what I know now - I would order the line heater part #WR49X10173 AND FIX IT MYSELF! It didn't take the tech 10 minutes. You just pull off the front panel and take out a couple screws. Good luck to you all!
I also have a Hotpoint side-by-side purchased in Nov 05 that the water line just started freezing on. I just called GE and they are shipping the heating element for no charge, although I have to install it. They said that if it were under 3yrs old, they would send a tech out at no charge as well. My main board went bad about 3 months ago, was making a very loud howling noise, and GE came out and replaced it for no charge as well. As bad as this fridge has been, their service has been great!
We have an almost 2 yr. old GE side-by-side refrigerator. Our water line is frozen in our door. We've thawed it out once, but it froze back up a day later. I realize GE has a product to fix this issue. I called today to see what they would do and spoke with three different people-- supposedly got to the highest person that I could (a case manager in Headquarters) and they aren't willing to do anything other than we pay for a service call to diagnose the issue then they will decide if they are willing to help fix it or not at their cost. That's ridiculous. I have filed consumer complaints through several different avenues. GE is covering this issue up and doesn't seem to care to do anything about it. All three GE people I spoke with said they hadn't heard of this issue. One person even asked me to show it to them on their website.
For those that had success in contacting GE to have this issue corrected at GE's cost, please post whom you spoke with and what number you called. That would be great. Thanks.
I called GE Consumer Relations @ 800-386-1215, and asked for part WR49X10173. I can't remember the name of the person I spoke with. Hope this helps!
It took me only about 10 minutes to fix the same problem for my GE refrigerator (GSH25JFTAWW), which had stopped working for past several months. After reading a previous suggestion that one added manually additional isolation layer onto the flat internal surface of the door right behind the Dispenser, I attached a piece of foam with thickness of 0.5 inch, came in with a box for some electronic stuff, to the very same place using Scotch tape. Within about 5 minutes, the Dispenser came back. It was apparently warmed up by the room temperature. No dryer is necessary. It costs me $0.
Have tried many things. Mine has worked for as little as 4 hrs at a time and needed to be fixed other times it's OK for a month or so.
Fixes that don't work or have poor results:
1)lowering temp of freezer recommended by gen electric help desk
2)garden trimmer string up in water line to pull out when plug of ice freezes around it
3)disconnect at floor freezer side near floor and blow air through the line with compressor
4)hairdryer
Apparently there is a heating device developed by ge to resolve but they
Won't admit to it. They say call service tech. when I asked about it.
Best fix for me : If line freezes leave night light on at the water dispenser in a couple
Of hrs it will thaw it out. Thanks to whoever posted found at another website.
Handynmanknox
handymanknox, I have tried all the other options and taping a piece of insulation to the inside of the fridge has worked for a couple of months now. Plus, all your fiends will think your McGuyver when you explain why you have insulation on the inside of your freezer.
As per other previous suggestions, I also taped some insulation to the inside of the freezer behind the dispenser. I used blue painters tape and some insulation that came with a computer component.
Within about 20 minutes, the dispenser was working. I'd replaced the filter and could not understand why there was no water, yet the ice maker was still working. I had no idea until searching this message board that it was frozen.
I hadn't used my water dispenser in a long time as the water does not taste good, even with the $35 replacement filter from Lowe's. So, I've been using a Brita water pitcher in the fridge for about the last 2 yrs. Maybe this time the water will taste better. :rolleyes:
Thanks to everyone for posting about this. Oh, and by the way, my fridge came with my new built house in Oct 2004. Funny how most of us have a 2004 or 2005 fridge. :)
I've had this problem a few times and it usually cleared up after a few days. This time I remembered that I had a service contract so decided to take advantage of it. Surprise, surprise, The no-water problem is not covered. No good explanation but having found this web site I can see why they decided to exempt it. They can't afford to recognize it as a design flaw. This is sleaze at its worst. No more GE products for me.
Anyway I followed some advice here and taped a 11 x 11 x .5 inch piece of foam rubber to the back of the ice dispenser unit. Had water in 15 minutes. Thanks for the help.
Nauset Willie
Cape Cod, MA
Glad it worked for you too! Yep, no more GE products for me either.Quote:
Originally Posted by NausetWillie
I have a GE Monogram Side-by-side model ZISS420DRAS (built in stainless steel model) with the ice/water dispenser in the door. Have owned the house for two years and the fridge came with the house. Before moving in, the previous owner had dispatched GE repair to repair a cracked water tank. Other than that, I haven't had any problems with freezing water lines.
Had a independent repair guy come out yesterday and tell me that he wasn't too familiar with my model and said he couldn't help me and told me to call GE.
I consider myself to be pretty handy and discovered this website and forum and was glad I did.
Turns out I had a few problems that led to the water line freezing—which was why water wouldn't dispense. Icemaker worked fine—it just wouldn't dispense water. As it turns out, I discovered that I had a frozen water line in the back of the inside of the fridge—behind the vegetable storage drawer. The reason the line froze—which I'm still trying to figure out the cause of—was that the climate control drawer on the bottom of the fridge got really, really cold. So cold, that it was 16F. Way too colder that it should be. Anyway, this caused EVERYTHING on the lower portion of the fridge—including the water line behind the vegetable storage drawer to freeze. My initial assessment was that the climate control drawer was set on MEAT (34F) and with nothing in the drawer, caused the temp to drop. In fact, the GE troubleshooting website confirms that foods may start to freeze if the drawer is left empty and is set at the coolest setting (meat).
Once I was able to stabilize the temperature in the climate drawer to a chilly 42 degrees, I attempted to tackle the frozen water line.
My solution for the frozen water line was to remove the panel on the inside of the fridge behind the vegetable drawers. To remove the panel, you'll need to remove the climate control drawer, and veggie drawers first. Once the drawers are out, you'll need to remove the 4 phillips screws to access the water tank (or in my case, the coiled up tubing because I've already had my tank replaced because it cracked). BEFORE to unhook the water supply line in two places—where the water is supplied to the fridge to the tank or tubing and from the tank/tubing from the tubing that eventually leads to the dispenser door. BEFORE doing that, you'll need to turn your water off—wherever it tapped in to your water pipe or supply.
Once I unhooked the tubing connections, I submersed the tubing (or tank if you have a tank) in a sink filled with hot water. 5 minutes, it was thawed.
I hooked everything back up, turned on the water, checked for leaks, hit the dispenser and the water flowed freely. Repaced the panel, drawers and I was done.
Total time for this repair was 15 minutes and I save myself a expensive visit from GE repair.
Thanks again to all who have posted regarding this problem. I ended up putting a piece of one inch foam insulation over the back (freezer) side of the door over the location where the line was freezing. I used silicon waterproof caulk to hold it in place, and it has held tight ever since. This solution has worked for me, as I have noted my previous posting was nearly 5 months ago. While I see that others have achieved success using the electric heater, why go to the bother if an easier approach will do the trick? Good luck to all who must deal with this problem.
I installed the water line heater part last November (see post #98), and for the first 3-4 months it worked great. But problem came back in March, and I had to break out the hair dryer to fix it again. No problems until this week, when it started freezing up every day (fixed only by defrosting it with the hair dryer). The heater part is still working (I can put my finger on it and it's quit warm), but apparently it's no silver bullet. So now I'm going to try the insulation approach that the last few posters have recommended and see how that works.
Doug
I installed mine months ago as the posts show and I have had no problem whatsoever with it. Works great and still holding. I am keeping my fingers crossed!Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheezums2
I must be the lucky one. I purchased a side by side at Lowe's they offered a 10 year extended policy for $115.95. I'am glad I took it. After water problems and ice freezing the entire ice dispense GE answer was to replace both doors, and a new heating system. Repair man said insulation failure was the main problem and that moisture would build up inside the door causing it to freeze solid from the bottom up. He also said in warm areas of the country the doors would start to rust out from the bottom. Why both doors ? So the color would match.
After several years of perfect operation unit lost refrigeration. Service man replaced a defroster heater part # wr51x10101. Part and service was also covered under extended policy. It runs out soon and I plan to renew it. I guess I have a good GE tech who cures my problems with the first call. Even though it took 5 working days for a repair man to show up to fix a fridge with no cooling at all.
I installed the heater last November. After about 3-4 months, the water tube froze up again.
I had read where someone had taped insulation to the inside of the door. Using that idea, I drilled a 1 1/2in. Hole in the inside of the door just under the ice dispenser chute. This is at about the same level as where the water tube exits out the front of the door.
I dug out the old insulation and put in some new foam insulation that I got from some packing material.
I plugged the hole with a plastic plug that I got from the local hardware store. It doesn't look bad, and so far so good.
Same problem... my solution:
Take the wires out of a short section of round phone line, stick the emptied section (call it a tube) as far up the water line as possible (to the point where the ice sits), then blow into the tube. The hot, angry breath defrosts the line in short order!
(keep the tube for next time.)
Will
Mine does the same thing. I think it is the ice dispensor door does not close properly and causes the water line or valve to freeze up. I don't know how to fix it. I cleaned the whole where the ice comes out. It did not fix the problem
I have the same problem with model GSL25JFPABS.
I just called GE and was directed to a specialist at 800-386-1215. She had worked there for 15 years and said that my model number had no known issues. I find this hard to believe considering everyones' comments. Highly annoying. They want me to call a Tech (and pay for it of course.)
I will be purchasing some foam insulation to see if that works! Thanks for all the tips.
I have a GE dishwasher that is a piece of *^&$ too. It routinely will not clean the dishes unless they are loaded 'just so.'
No more GE for me.
Bought house last year, has a GE model GSS25UFPH side-by-side black refrigerator/freezer. Circa 2003.
Water worked when house was purchased but we don't normally use it, just the occasional visitor.
Replaced filter, water dispensor didn't work. But hadn't checked it before we replaced the filter, it hasn't been used in months.
Checked this forum (thanks, people!). Turned off refrigerator and disconnected the water hose into the freezer door. Just a splash of water out either end.
Found a crimped, frozen line behind the vegetable crisper. Thawed it with hair dryer, will have to wait to see if happens again. Reset the temperature levels in the refrigerator.
AJ
A really easy solution to this (short term but has worked for me for 6 months) is as follows:
Supplies needed:
Balloon
Thin plastic tube (I use one from a spray bottle)
1- fill balloon (does not need to inflate) with hot tap water
2- place plastic tube just inside the balloon opening
3- fold the balloon opening just around the tube so the water doesn't leak
4- place a towel under the water dispenser
5- insert the tube up into the water dispenser until it stops
6- squirt the water up into the water dispenser (you will feel cold water run onto your hand)
7- try the water dispenser
8- if the water doesn't run repeat steps 5-7 until the water runs
There is probably a better way to create a "squirt bottle" but this is the only thing I could come up with and it takes no time to throw together and clear the line.
I took the advice to put some additional insulation inside the freezer door 2 months ago and have had no trouble with the water dispenser since. I went to the local hardware store and purchased a styrofoam cooler. I ended up cutting out a 9x9 section of the cooler and taped it to the inside panel of the freezer.
It makes a great story to tell when someone else sees the styrofoam taped inside the freezer.
Hello everyone!
I was having some problems with my frig as well. I didn't have the money to have someone come out.
I found this website and they will help you DIY!! They'er great.
It only cost me $60 dollars and they mailed me out my parts. I could have gone to get them myself but there wasn't a shop around me. They walked me through the whole trouble shooting of the machine.
Here is the Link:)
Where is the water vavle located on a GE side by side REfrigerator
dnl_emJul 13, 2009, 11:26 AM
I installed the heater last November. After about 3-4 months, the water tube froze up again. I had read where someone had taped insulation to the inside of the door. Using that idea, I drilled a 1 1/2in. hole in the inside of the door just under the ice dispenser chute. This is at about the same level as where the water tube exits out the front of the door.
I dug out the old insulation and put in some new foam insulation that I got from some packing material. I plugged the hole with a plastic plug that I got from the local hardware store. It doesn't look bad, and so far so good.
This is a very interesting solution. I intend to implement it since even with the heater, some have reported the frozen line problem coming back after a few months so the fundamental problem must have to do with deteriorating insulation in the area of the water line.
My question - Is your solution still working?
First the problem:
1 - Refrigerator works fine for several years
2 - Then, the water dispenser freezes up within 6 inches of where the water comes out. (you know this by inserting a weed cutter plastic wire, it should feed in several feet, there are no valves in the door, if it stops feeding sooner, it has encountered a freezed plug of water)
3 - Taping of insulation to the freezer door on the inside solves the problem for awhile.
4 - About a year later, the water outlet freezes again and the time it takes to refreeze is now only about an hour (insulation still in place on the freezer side of the door). Pulling out the plastic weed cutter wire you inserted up the outlet tube clears the ice blockage - but it's a pain to keep pulling out the line just to get water.
5 - One person reported that adding the heater mod may only be a temporary fix and as the interior door insulation further deteriorates, the line will once again start to freeze.
Given the above facts one has to conclude that the door insulation deteriorated since it worked when new. Anything other than a replacement of the interior door insulation would be a patch that would work until the insulation deteriorated further. With this in mind, I took the path of drilling a hole in the freezer side of the door at the same level as the water outlet on the outside of the door. The area to be drilled is just below the slanted ice chute, the flat section. I had a 2 inch hole drill handy (it only cuts the perimeter of the hole so you can pull out the plug) so I used that. 1.5 inch would be fine too.
Warning! Only drill into the door just enough to remove the outer plastic skin forming the door interior, it's about 1/16 inch or so thick. It's stuck to the interior insulation so you have to pry it off with a screwdriver after using the hole driller. There's nothing behind the interior door skin besides rigid insulation and the water feed tube which is an inch or so further in. Warning, I did not follow my own advice and drilled too far in (an inch or so) and nicked the water line - duct tape is a wonderful thing! - used to reseal the tube)
Once you have the plastic skin pried off, start removing the rigid insulation, it's like styrofoam ice coolers you can buy. A screwdriver works fine for removing the insulation bit by bit, it comes out in chunks. Continue to do so until the water tube line is fully exposed, several inches long. Be sure to clear out the insulation behind the water line too so the line stands fully exposed.
At this point I used fiberglass insulation (the pink stuff) used in the attic and stuffed as much as would fit into the space exposed. The fiberglass has the advantage of being somewhat elastic and as you stuff it in, it fills the area firmly, sealing off any drafts.
Ideally, you would be able to find a 2 inch plug that would neatly fit the drilled hole. Alas, the biggest one I could find was only 1.5 inches in diameter. Therefore, I just taped over the opening which still looks better than the old exterior insulation I had taped to the back of the door before.
After the fix, the water no longer freezes. Clearly, the door insulation had deteriorated - probably separating from the interior door edges, allowing a draft to reach the water line. The fiberglass insulation, being somewhat elastic, expanded enough to fill in the gaps. I never took the intermediate route of installing the heater since I figured it would eventually fail as a fix when the door insulation deteriorated further. If the fiberglass insulation itself fails after awhile, it's a simple matter of removing it and putting in fresh - but so far it's working fine.
I have a GE side by side that is approx. 4 years old. I started having problems first with my ice maker (but my boss has same fridge and she noticed similar symptoms with her water). Apparently it is a know problem that in these fridges, after about 4 years, the "Logic Board", or the "Main Assembly board" goes out. GE has made several changes to the board, and now have the 4th revision out. The cost is about $150 bucks at most appliance parts stores - and it takes about 10 minutes to change out. If it is the board and you don't replace it now, you will know it's the board if your top shelf items start freezing in the fridge, or eventually the cooling will stop all together (in my case, both the fridge and freezer went out). So if you continue to have problems,or different problems start, replace the main assembly board. If you are under warranty, GE may not charge for parts and labor.
This has long been a problem with GE side by sides. Poorly routed water line. Newer units have tube mounted inside a channel like everyone else. GE has replaced some doors at no charge, not sure what the parameters are concerning the fix but they know the problem exists. COD costs could be upwards of $700.00
Well, searched regarding my "no water issue in the dispenser" and found this post. Wished I'd found it a few days ago before I paid the service tech. money to unfrost my water line with a blow dryer. Who'd a thunk it? However, less then 24 hrs. later, frozen again. I did the blow dryer thing for about 5 or so minutes and remaind frozen. I called tech. back and ran the idea of the heater mentioned in the post. He says not a solution. I will go to the local hardware store and get some insulation and tape it to the door and also leave the light on to see if it defrosts.
Has anyone thought of shooting in some of the spray insulation behind the dispenser tube?
I will never buy another GE product for as long as I live!! They were complete as**s when I looked to them for a resolution!
Hi,
Thanks to all the help on this topic, I was able to troubleshoot mine... it is the water
Freezing in the door.
I tried: Opening door for 20-30 minutes... that works, but it freezes back up.
I tried: Trimmer line left in the tube (it does freeze about 3-4" inside tube, blocking the water flow. Trimmer line just freezes too...
I tried: Reducing the freezer temp to 3 and moved all the frozen food off the door. No help, it just refreezes.
Did not try adding any insulating material.
Called GE. They offered the water heater fix for $67 plus shipping. I said they should provide it free. Said no, but referred me to customer relations. Customer relations said they would: Sell me a new door, $425 or send me a coupon for $400 on a new frig. (originally told me this was because of a lawsuit settlement..I didnt opt for either of these, then told lawsuit did not apply to me). Said they would sell me the heater "wholesale". I said no, it should not cost me, I guess you are saying I need to take this to small claims."
Said no, I will get it free in about 5 days...
So... hopefully, that will be my fix. (They did ask me how I knew what the problem was, told them I had been troubleshooting and confirmed the water was freezing in the line right near the dispenser)
Hope this helps the rest of you if you decide you don't want to purchase the heater for $40 to $70 dollars.
I contacted GE today and was told my frige was part of a recall. However, the recall part was the front board which they say has nothing to do with the water dispenser. After a short conversation, they have graciously offered to send me the new board along with the water heater part for free. Board is covered for free under the recall. I will put both parts in and see how frige works.
Can anyone tell me how hard is it to put the front board in? Guessing goes in near dispenser?
Since ice works fine, it could be water line is frozen in door... (seems to be a common problem in GE side-by-sides) Disconnect water line going into hinge at bottom of freezer door and put line from frig in a suitable container,(m/t soda bottle, etc.),press dispenser for water. If water flows into bottle, line is probably frozen in door on its way up to dispenser. Water flowing into the door (soda bottle) at this point tells you that the pressure, filter, cooling coil (or tank), solenoid, etc. are all working.Quote:
Originally Posted by sboku
P.S. BTW, the only fix I've heard of that seems to have good results is the heater that is available for about 50$. I just ordered water heater asm for my freezer door... Let you know what happens.Quote:
Originally Posted by Handee
I have had the same problem with my GE fridge. This is what I did.
1. Disconnect the water line at the bottom of the freezer door. It is a clear line with a blue coupler. Disconnect the water line on side closest to the door water dispenser.
2. Purchase a small piece of rubber tubing, about 5 feet, and a large syringe. I used my marinade injector that came with my turkey fryer.
3. Fill the syringe with hot water (remove needle) , attach it to the tubing and run the tubing up the water hose toward the dispenser until it stops.
4. Inject the water slowly
5. Repeat until the line is clear
This worked perfectly on my fridge. Hopefully it will work for you too.
Thanks for your idea. My fix had been leaving the freezer door ajar for about 15 minutes(less work than the hot water fix) and it worked fine.. but in my case, it only worked for a couple of days (or sometimes only overnight-then it would freeze again!) I wanted to fix it for real. I finally got the "heater fix" ( see: No Water from the Dispenser on a GE Refrigerator | Refrigerator Repair | Fixitnow.com Samurai Appliance Repair Man )and installed it. Since I did this, (2 weeks ago), it's been perfect, but I have my fingers crossed... (Ha!Ha!)
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