HELP! I replaced the rear bearing on my kenmore model number 417.90872992, it worked for 15 minutes then started squeaking again. The drum was not tumbling just squeaking. Could I have not replaced the belt probably on the pulley? Does anyone have a picture of the way the belt should be attached to the pulley correctly? Or do you think it might be another problem entirely? Thanks!

FedEx delivered the repair kit today, and I did the repair in an hour or two (didn't pay careful attention to the time). It's a straightforward job, but I really needed the help knowing how to disassemble the dryer. And of course I wouldn't have had any idea that the repair kit was really the solution!

A couple of comments on ApplGuy's beautiful instructions: in my dryer there was no reason to disconnect the door switch. I wasn't going to work on the dryer with power applied, so there was no danger of accidental turn-on, and the wires only go to the front panel. I don't think there was any reason to remove the funny yellow thing either. To pop the drum out of the old bearing I used my hands leveraged against the back panel, rather than pulling on the belt.

I didn't have any significant trouble with just two hands. The screws that hold the post to the back of the drum were the trickiest part. I succeeded by judiciously switching between a regular screwdriver and an electric one. I wonder why they didn't supply star or torx head screws?

We also fixed our dryer using the great directions (1 hour including fighting with the 3 screws on the drum... but the recommended hex head screws before starting).

Some notes: our Fridgaire had a coupling to disconnect for the front panel instead of individual wires. The current Phillips head screws are #3 size and that may be why many have problems with them (#3 requires a large Phillips screwdriver). Have a vacuum handy to clean out the lint build-up.

I have read this entire post history. I have a Frigidaire gas dryer. I had the squeeking noise so I replaced the rear drum bearing kit for $28. I still have the noise. I have found the source - it is the exhaust blower wheel and it is resonating through the exhaust duct. I found this by unplugging the machine, disconnecting the belt drive, and turning the blower wheel with my hand. Does anyone know how to replace the blower wheel or fix it?

Applguy, is this the same part number for the Frigidaire FSEC748GF Dryer. It is an older stackable, and has the same squeak as the above dryers. Also where is the cheapest place on the internet to get these parts?

Thank you in advance

I have the same symptoms but my Dryer is an Admiral model number ADE7005AYW. Will the fix from applguy work with this model as well? If so where would I get the parts? If not, what might be the problem with this dryer?

I just wanted to add my kudos to applguy and this entire post for guiding me (actually us) through the replacement of our Frigidaire dryer's hideously squealing bearing. The job proceeded smoothly and was done in a couple hours.

A couple notes for those trying this: (1) as mentioned earlier (applguy's post dated Apr 17, 2006), an extra person is helpful and nearly mandatory when attaching the cradle assembly; (2) removing and reattaching the belt around the idler pulley is best and most easily performed through the rear inspection cover, if present (applguy's post dated May 2, 2006).

Along these same lines, for those who don't know how this is done, the idler pulley in attached to a spring loaded "L" bracket that rotates, slackening the belt for removal and reattachment. I should have known this before proceeding but did not. Trying to unhook the belt, from the front, without knowing about the rear panel or the pulley bracket's motion was quite the P.I.T.A. Now I know.

Thanks again, applguy, and all the rest. We now enjoy the drying sounds of silence (apologies to Simon and Garfunkel).

I own a westinghouse dryer that had a belt get shredded probably due to being 5+ years old. We had noticed a pretty loud squelching sound but it was tolerable so we let it go... finally the belt came apart.

In hind sight - I think the ball joint in the back was so devoid of lube that the belt was getting very taxed and that probably did the sucker in.

So I pulled the top and front off - replaced the belt and put it back together only to have the thing dead... completely ZIPPO. :mad:

Checked the outside circuit breaker - it was fine. I double checked my door connection - it was fine. Still nothing.

VERY FRUSTRATED and 4 hours into this little project (including the $20 trip to the parts store) - I finally pulled the back off the control panel. And there I found a ray of hope - I saw a white wire dangling in the wind. SWEET! - So where do I put it? The length of the wire suggested that it could only connect to the back of the timer - but there were no obvious "missing" connections. :confused:

I am not joking when I say that after another 3 hours of following wires and the cryptic wiring diagram... I was on Craigslist looking for another dryer. :eek:

In one last gust of desperation - I went back into the guts of this box and sat down. I found one odd place on the side of the already connected timer loop - which was black and looped to itself (sort of)... and you can pony the white/neutral to that side connector.

I plugged her in, hit start and just about pooped my pants when I heard the whiiirrrr!

So - if you are in the "dead dryer" boat - and have 8-9 hours to spend trying to figure out why your blasted machine won't kickup anymore - pop the back off the control panel and have a look.

Now all I need - is a good recommendation for a metal to metal lube/oil that I can slather on the ball joint..?

Thanks for all the previous answers - even though they didn't solve my issue - they helped me keep digging. :D :D

I want to THANK APPLGUY I found this on the net and joined just to be able to say THANKS. I heard that noise in my dryer and fixed it by myself using your instructions. You were awesome. Thank you. You saved me a lot of money. Come on if a woman can read these directions and fix her dryer you know he did a great job. Thanks again. From San Antonio, TX

I put high temp axle grease on the bearing on my dryer and it has worked good so far.
I just want to say what a sorry piece of engineering these things are.
I have had our dryer for maybe 5 to 7 years and have had to replace the felt strip with the teflon pads and lubed the bearing countless times.
Why don't they use some sort of sealed bearing and bearings instead of the teflon pads?
Seems they are designed not to last.

AppleGuy, you're the man. Thank you so much for posting the detailed instructions on repairing the rear bearing. :)
I purchased the kit for $25 and had it installed 90 minutes later. Glad I did too, as the bottom of the dryer was full of lint and needed to be cleaned. :p
I wish I would have purchased the belt at the same time as it is badly cracked. Just a suggestion to those still considering the repair.

I have a question, please, about a GE Dryer. It was making HUGE squeaking noises, metal on metal. I open the top of the dryer, looked down and tried applying some WD40 on the drum belt. I could not see where to open the bottom panel or the panel in the back. However, upon further inspection, I saw a gob of grey matter down along the left side, toward the front where the drum rolls and rubs on. I pulled it out and it appears to be a kind of felt belt or padding that must have prevented the metal drum from rubbing the metal path. Am I correct? Well, it's broken and I have it out. Can this be replaced or is this dryer dried it's last load? Replies would be very welcome. You can write to me direct at [email protected].

I have a Hotpoint that started making this load squeaky noise, as soon as I add the clothes and run it, Its starts. The wetter the clothes are the loader it gets it is about 6 yrs old please help.

Hotpoint and GE are about the same. Follow the advice contained in the thread here for a cure.

Applguy DOES rock!

I took his advice and replaced the rear bearing assembly on my Frigidaire dryer.
Thanks to his advice, I saved my dryer! It cost me less than $20 to fix it!

To hopefully help others, I documented my repair with comments and pictures at:
How To Fix A Squeaky Dryer

Just repaired our dryer using appleguy's instructions, very easy to follow.

Some notes:
- the idler pulley is spring loaded. When you remove the spring be prepared for the parts around it to fall out/down. If you have a rear fan panel on the back side, it may be easier for you to access the idler this way. Take a picture of what the pulley looks like before you remove the spring.
- the smaller bearing was completely gone (ground away) so we were unsure where the new one went, but we figured it out
- you will need new screws. Buy some 10 x1/2 and a few nuts. We used hex washer heads.
- when you are re-assembling the drum it will appear to hang too low and angle slightly. This will fix itself when you put the front panel back on.

great detailed explanation of what needs to be done, thanks again.

Thanks for the info on the repair. My dryer is quiet again!

I was looking at new dryers when I found this site.

I have a Maytag Performa mde3500ayw that needs a rear bearing (it’s squeaking). Is the part that I’m looking for?

Maytag 12001541 Bearing Roller Drum Assembly, Maytag 12001541 at PartStore.com

My Kenmore Laundry Center dryer began to make a loud squeak. It is 13 years old. I went online and studied up on possible troubleshooting ideas. Appleguy seemed to strongly feel that it was a bearing issue. I read his instructions and while they were detailed- I was not up to the challenge. One other post caught my eye. I think that Marth said that her daughter suggested finding a place in the back where the dryer moves and see if you can lube there. It just couldn't be that easy. So I called the repair man and paid $29 to have him tell me that it was as Appleguy stated- a bearing problem. His estimate was $200 for the repair. I do not have $200 at this time for a dryer repair on a 13 year old machine! Desperate, I went to DoItCenter and purchased a white lithium grease spray with a long straw nozzle like a WD-40 can. Next, I rotated the Laundry Center to access the rear of the unit and saw 3 holes where the dryer barrell assembly would be. Then, I sprayed some grease into each of the three holes. Guess what, it worked. As I type my dryer is working without any noise. Thanks Marth!! My wife wanted me to sign up and tell this story so it can hopefully help someone in the future. So, try this first before even calling a repair guy for an estimate.:)

No grease,no oil,just a great dry lube. (NO LINT STICKING.)Been using it for years. See if you can find it locally at the hardware store.

Amazon.com: Elmer's E450 Slide-All Dry Spray Lubricant 4-Ounce: Home Improvement

I'm an idiot with fixing things, but I followed the instructions on this thread, and 2 1/2 hours and $29 later, my dryer is quiet again. There's really nothing about this project that's all that hard, just a number of things that take a little figuring out (kind of tricks of the trade). I bet I could do it in less than half the time if I did it again.

For nonexpert, it sounds like you found the back side of the drum bearing - on the back of the dryer, in the middle, there's a little metal plate about 2 inches wide and about 1/2 inch high that runs horizontally, there's probably a little metal tab sticking out below it, and it has a hole in the middle. If you look in that hole, you'll see a little ball, that's the back side of the drum bearing, if you could go through that metal ball and inside your dryer, you'd be in the cradle that's referred to above, so if that's where you're putting the grease, then you're greasing the bearing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by applguy

I don't see why you couldn't fix it yourself...it's not really that difficult, but it can really be a bonus if you can have someone help you hold things together at one point. . . .

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I just made an account so I could come here and thank you Applguy! I printed your instructions and ordered the part and it worked!

Just to diagnose it would have cost 20$ more than the price of the parts alone (not including labor). You saved me so much money! Thank you again!

I would like to mention that for those of you on this thread that are dealing with the kenmore stacking laundry center (I believe that the GE is the same unit), if you are only spraying teflon lube or WD40 on the small metal ball on the back of the dryer, you are not lubricating the bearing or solving the problem, you are only silencing the indicator that tells you that the rear drum bearing (which is composed entirely of UHMW plastic) has worn out of limits.

I say this only because I was doing the same thing, and have just replaced the rear bearing, thankfully before any real damage was done. Check out

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/applia...ble-30786.html

sketts

Hi Applguy,

I too have a Frigidaire fde216res1 , I followed your instructions but got stuck at the point where I have to lift the drum for inspecting the bearings. I thought it is required to remove the back panel to for accessing the bearing and removed a couple of screws. Now when I rotate the drum manually , it makes much horrible noise than earlier. I am not able to pull the drum off as you've mentioned. Awaiting your response.

Applguy,

Your directions were great and my wife and I replaced the entire kit ($35.00) in one night. A couple of notes... If you replace the main drum support ball/flange... Good luck getting the new screws in.. They are cheap self-tapping screws with phillips heads... I had to start the screws through with vice grips to get them in! In addition to that, I lacerated two fingers on the inside of the back cabinet... Be careful! As for the rest... Pretty much a piece of cake as long as you don't lose that tiny little ball bearing...

Bottom line... It runs like new. Thanks again!

Besides pre-threading the screws, I have found that when attaching the bearing to the back of the drum, if you don't have anyone to hold it while you start the screws, surprise ! One more use for "Duct Tape." I also have a magnet from an old speaker that I place in the fall path of small screws, etc. sure was nice to find that little ball bearing that got away just sitting there on the magnet!

Great advice! I replaced the rear bearing using the rear bearing kit on my GE dryer and the squeak is gone. Also replaced the felt/drum glide and belt, but the bearing was the cause of the squeak. The 3 screws that go through the back of the drum are tough to get in. I finally used a tiny bit of the lubricant that came with the bearing kit and the screws went right in.

Thanks Appleguy, we did it too. A word of help to others: Home Depot and/or Lowe's don't carry dryer parts. You will have to find a parts store and get one from there. Our was $60.00 including the tax. (Looks like a $4.00 part- Ha) This will save you some time. It is a 2 person job just for attaching the new bearing part becasuse one person has to hold it on the back of the drum while the other attaches the screws from the inside. Now to start washing the pile of clothes.

Hey appleguy... i have a maytag... bout 5 yrs old... do you have directions for that or is it pretty much the same thing... great site, btw! :cool:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by applguy

i don't see why you couldn't fix it yourself...it's not really that difficult, but it can really be a bonus if you can have someone help you hold things together at one point. It (the dryer) is serviced from the front. The part number you will likely need is 5303281153. This is a kit that contains every part that could possibly need to be replaced when dealing with a rear drum bearing. First, unplug the dryer from the outlet or remove power at the breaker/fuse panel. To raise the top of the dryer, insert a putty knife into the crack between the top and the front panel and push against the spring clips to release them. There are two clips, anywhere from 23 to 8 inches in from the sides. You should be able to feel the spring tension when you push on them. Push one in slightly, and raise that side, then the same for the other end of the main top. Once the top is up, you will disconnect the wires to the door switch (right side, on the backside of the front panel), if there are 3, mark them somehow to get them back correctly, if only 2 wires, no need as location makes no difference. Then remove the phillips screw holding the yellow tab-looking plastic thing front and center in the top of the front panel. Then remove the 2 screws holding the front panel to the side panels, screw heads are inside the cabinet, screws pointing towards you. Pull the front panel away and lift off the bottom clips to remove. Now remove the belt from the idler pulley. The idler is located right behind the blower/motor unit. Make sure to note how the belt goes around the idler so you get it back on right. Once the belt is free, slide the belt to the back edge of the drum and, using it as a handle (on the top side of the drum), lift straight up to disengage the rear bearing from the cradle. This can be a very tight fit, especially if it worn badly. You may have to pull relatively hard. Once done, the drum will pull out through the front of the cabinet. Now you can see the drum support ball on the back of the drum and the cradle that holds it. Simply keep note of how you remove the cradle from the back wall to reassemble it correctly (this is where 4 hands are better than 2 and don't loose track of the ground bearing from the back). Using a small drop of supplied grease to keep the bearing in the plastic cradle makes reassembly much easier. As far as the post on the back of the drum is concerned, if the new and old parts look absolutely identical, leave it alone and just clean it up good. If you must change it (another place where 4 hands are better than 2), be very careful with the new screws, because they are cheap and the heads strip almost instantly. Put a generous portion of supplied grease into the cradle and reassemble the dryer. Good luck, and if you see something that doesn't look right or confuses you, let me know.

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Hey appleguy... I have a maytag... bout 5 yrs old... do you have directions for that or is it pretty much the same thing... great site, by the way!

I did change the wheel as appleguy stated also cleaned the dryer from all that lint, however the noise is still there with a new knocking sound.. Help!!

Could it be because I'm missing this tape around this circle that fits into the drum? But in never opened the dryer before and its missing could it have been rubbing off.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...e80/dryer2.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...e80/dryer1.jpg

Also when I tilt the dryer twards its back the noise screaching noise goes away.. it sounds like metal is rubbing on metal

Yep you need to replace it and it is available in a kit form.

I found the problem it's the drum rubbing against the white plastic pin on top. The drum is missing most of the bottom felt. I opened the top while the dryer is on (bad thing to do) but I had to do something I couldn't go to sleep without knowing the source of the noise. So the drum is not balanced and rubs against the white plastic pin...

How can this be solved?
Can the pin be removed? Is it necessary?

The felt acts like a bearing for the front of the drum. It must be replaced.

My Westinghouse was squeaking so LOUDLY, so I read all these first and tried the WD-40 before I called the repair person! It worked! Running more quietlying than it has in years!:)

Appleguy- Would you think this would be the same problem if it were a Kenmore dryer, DWXR473ET5WW ?

I have a maytag dryer about seven years. Works great except for this high pitch squeeking. Usually after about ten minutes it stops and as long as we don't let it cool down it works. Wnen it first starts it will drive you carzy. Any ideas what it might be would be appreciated.

Applguy totally saved my dryer but please understand, I read this thread some time ago and ordered the parts back then. Since then, I did not replace the part but instead tried the wd40 trick. It did cover up the noise but do not be fooled to think that it fixes the problem. You are only masking the symptom (the squeak) instead of fixing the problem.

Initially, before I ordered the parts, I took the drum out of my dryer to inspect the parts and see if they looked like they needed replacing. So I could continue to do laundry while waiting (without the squeak) I applied the lubricant to the bearing area and stuck the thing back together.

The wd540 worked so well that I became less enthusiastic about pulling it back apart when the parts did arrive so they sat on the top of my dryer for a few months. First the squeak came back (a little at first then pretty loud... sounded like we had a huge hampster running on a wheel when I dried clothes). After a few months I also noticed the dryer spinning slower and the clothes getting really hot (I think because the air sat on them longer than it should have because the drum was spinning so slow.

Finally, I broke down and pulled it apart. You wouldn't believe the metal round peg that comes out of the back of the drum was now cylindrical rather than round, it had totally melted and changed form. I was definitely on course for burning up my motor if I would have just ignored the symptom and applied more wd40!

When applying the new parts you DEFINITELY need 2 people. My 12 year old son worked fine. It wasn't totally easy but I finished it in one evening. The parts I ordered came with the metal peg part that screws to the back of the drum... PLEASE ADVISE I took a pair of channel locks and pre threaded those screws into the back of that part first because they simply weren't going in any other way. That was the only part that almost made us give up. When I found that other people had to do this on this thread, it saved me again. The belt is sort of a pain to get back on but if you can reach your arm back in there (and most people are stronger than me... I can assure you... also have longer arms and fingers would've helped) and use a screwdriver as a lever to get it up and around the pulleys. I just felt my way around and it worked okay.:)

Now it works like a dream!

Oh, and FYI, I am a mom with little to no experience fixing this sort of stuff... just like to give it a shot first.

Another new registration just to thank you Applguy! Less than an hour to fix, and the parts were delivered quick from PartAdvantage. Not sure if anyone else posted the link for them but here it is for Fridgidaire model FER641F50:
FER641FS0 | Part Advantage : Appliance Model Lookup
Again, many thanks Applguy!:)