I look at the schematic diagram there is no relay in the system.
Please look at the link and tell me if there is.
I put 120v at what I thought it could be relay, but it was the buzzer, you know when the dryer stop the cycle and it buzzes that it finished drying up.

http://www.tajcontractor.com/dryer/pics.htm

Please follow the next link to see the schematic diagram.

Thanks

I think the relay is at the right edge near the middle. Follow the red wire, labeled L2, from the plug to the open switch between M2 and M1. It looks like the same relay controls the motor too. If the drum turns, likely the problem is not with the relay, but one of the temperature sensors. They are near the bottom. With the power off, you should be able to measure continuity between the terminal on the timer marked R and the element. If not, check each of the 3 sensors between them. If one is open, it is bad. Replacing it should fix the problem. It could also closed cold and open at too low of a temperature. You may have to check it with the power on, but the dryer not heating. That is best done with a voltage detector.

I came across the niftiest gadget for trouble shooting, a voltage detector. They work through the insulation of wires. There are several brands. I have a GB Instruments GVD-505A, less than $15 at Home Depot. Touch it to a hot wire, and the end glows red. Find the doodad that lights it on one side, and not the other, and you have the culprit.

The relay and timer could all be built into the larger black box to the right of the buzzer.

I solved the problem
There was not 240v at my plug. The wire inside the plug was loose.and I saw sometimes I had 240v, the other time did not, I changed 3multimeter that I had, I did not think that would be a problem with plug.
So the only problem is set timer since I open it, it is out of gear setup.
Any help on that.
Bytheway I bought a used one for $25 just in case.when I hooked up the used one I realized that the plug was not good.

I fixed my problem with a great help of
Pegi at Sams
Appliance Tech - Moderator

This is how to:Take the cam/shaft assy and insert it carefully into the body of the timer box that holds the contacts, however while doing this carefully turn the shaft to the right, wiggle the cam assy and shaft and turn the shaft to the right slowly, within a minute or two all of the cams will find their level and will seat properly within the timer body/contact holders. When the silver back of the timer is flush with the black timer body and the shaft turns properly to the right it should be all lined back up properly. Just do not turn it to the left as this might damage/bend the contact holders.

labman comments did not continue with his help, I just wondered why?

Hello,
I have the same problem as debreese. I haven't replaced anything yet and I am working without a schematic. Dryer is a Kenmore electric 110.96364100.
In a de-energized state, my thermal cut-off is open. I'm assuming this is abnormal since the rest of my thermostats are in a closed position when de-energized.
Since the heating element can be part of the problem, what is a normal resitance range for a healthy element. Should it be next to nothing the lower the better... or are they like plug wires and work better with a certain degree of resistance.
Is a continuity test the right way to test a heating element... I have not visually inspected it yet... dreading disassembling the rest of the dryer to get to it.
Thanks for any help.

What is the location of the open device? Usually, the best way to check the heater is with continuity. Just set your meter to the lowest scale (may beep with closed circuit). Between the two terminals (wires off) you should get a beep. From one terminal to dryer cabinet or unpainted metal you should get infinite resistance. Elements are either good or they aren't. If it's physically broken or shorted, replace it. If not, don't.

I have a whirlpool Roper Dryer. It would tumble but not dry no heat. I replaced the heating element and it dryed for about 5 min. and then no heat again. I have checked the breaker and its not cloged it is getting air flow. What can it be HELP... :confused:

A volt/ohm meter is usually required to find the problem. Do you have one, and are you comfortable checking voltages? If you are, please provide the model number, as well as the part numbers for any parts you have changed. Thanks.

I have a Kenmore 80 series Super capacity plus dryer. Model# 77832791 77832 that is not heating. Sounds like after it runs for about 30 seconds that it is trying to fire up but then doesn't. I consider myself to be handy and could probably fix it with some help. Any idea where I should start? Does it sound like the sensor, the ignitor, or some other part? The air dry works fine just no heat...

Thank you.

Brian

I have a GE dryer that is giving me some problems. I am wondering if anyone can possibly give me an educated guess at what the problem may be. The timer sometimes will work correctly, meaning that it will actually complete the program without getting stuck and stay running. The other issue is that sometimes it heats up enough to dry the clothes and sometimes it only heats up enough to make them damp and warm, but doesn't dry. This is not a digital dryer. Thanks.

My Whirlpool dryer does not dry very well?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ltzfl

I have a Kenmore 80 series dryer that isn't heating anymore? I changed the heater, the thermal fuse, the thermostat, and thermal bias and still not heat. Any ideas what else it could be?

Thanks

---

What the He** is is a thermal bias!
Been in the appliance servive industry and never heard of that "part!" Sounds good though!