I replaced the main relay and it started right up but then died again in about 1 minute
Any more suggestions would be appreciated

Bear, you don't want to keep opening new threads. One is enough.

Most likely, then, the igniter is the source of the problem. Again, you really should replace the coil (and even the rotor), while you have the distributor open.

i replaced the main relay and it started right up but then died again in about 1 minute
any more suggestions would be appreciated
OK sorry well this is my first day on here. OK how hard is it to change the igniter. All I need to do right now is get the car running.

If you follow the directions I gave you, it's easy. Just make sure you coat the back of the igniter with silicone grease, which they often provide you with the igniter. Here's what the igniter looks like--it mounts to a heat sink:

Zip Code Entry at PartsAmerica.com (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=194&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Ignition+Module%2fControl+Unit)

Be sure to remove the coil for easier access to the igniter.

i replaced the main relay and it started right up but then died again in about 1 minute
any more suggestions would be appreciated
K well no one has an igniter in town so ill have to get on tomorrow, so you think that it will fix it, hopefully I'm getting low on the cash

Was the main relay you replaced new?

i replaced the main relay and it started right up but then died again in about 1 minute
any more suggestions would be appreciated
You it was new bought it after I talked to you, it is clicking. So it must be good, (I hope)

Good. Most Honda dealers probably replace igniters and coils in distributors several times a day--it's that common.

i replaced the main relay and it started right up but then died again in about 1 minute
any more suggestions would be appreciated
Well that's a good thing I guess, but there is no honda dealers around for about 45 minutes
I got the relay at napa. It looks exactly like the old one.

Igniters are electronic points, which allow the magnetic field in the coil to build up and collapse many times every second. The coil is a step-up transformer that allows 12v in the battery to increase to 25,000 v+ in the secondary. The computer chip in the igniter eventually fails, due to heat. Before it completely goes, you often experience intermittent electrical failure. The ECM tells the igniter when to open and close the circuit. If there's a problem with the igniter, it can't "fire" when it's supposed to. This often results in erratic rpm, refusal to stay running, or refusal to start at all.

Her's what igniters look like inside, before and after a "meltdown:"

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-honda-civic-wont-start-read-here-before-you-post-9924.html

i replaced the main relay and it started right up but then died again in about 1 minute
any more suggestions would be appreciated
It has spark, we just checked it but still will not start.

It may spark and still be bad. It just doesn't spark when it's supposed to. Remember, AutoZone will test igniters and coils for free. My experience is that they need to be replaced every 10 years or 100,000 miles or so.

Be sure and run the K-Test on your ECM--takes two minutes.

i replaced the main relay and it started right up but then died again in about 1 minute
any more suggestions would be appreciated
K ill take it off and test it at autozone

What were the results when you checked for codes?

Don't have anything to check for codes with on a honda

Should be the same on your Accord, as below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/reading-error-codes-92-95-civics-obd-hondas-18139.html