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Originally Posted by dawsonstone

http://www.endtimesreport.com/dead_gen.html... helpful info for recharging generator field....have used both methods listed with sucess

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Or To flash the field on a small home use generator,get an ext. cord & cut off the female end of it & strip the wires & connect the wires to a 12 volt car or lawn tractor battery, & plug the male end of the cord, into the 120 A.C. side of the generator.

Make SURE that the black wire which is POS/HOT on an A.C. cord, gets connected to the RED/POS. side of the auto battery, & the white wire on A.C. cord gets connected to the BLK./NEG. side of the battery. If the ext. cord wires are not black & white, then the smaller prong of the plug is the POS./HOT

Plug the other end of the ext. cord into the generators 120 volt side & remove spark plug wire, & pull the starter cord 4-5 times, then remove the ext. cord, reconnect the spark plug wire, start the unit & plug something of 120 A.C. volts in to see if it works. If it does then let it run for about a half hour with 2 -300 watt lights or something similar to help re-generate the unit.

Read more: Recharging generator field - DoItYourself.com Community Forums

I didn't look very hard to find a serviv=ce manual, but sometimes they are out there. You may nned the serial number to even look as in generac's site.

Here is "A service manual", but not for yours.

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Gen...g%20Manual.pdf

I did find the resistance info your looking for: Generac 5500XL, model#09778-7 no output. Changed - FixYa

Remember that there are probably two output windings and a control. There needs to be enough "residual magnatism" to get the generator kick started.

In MANY cases, you will get no output if protection sensors aren't working.

If you don't have a 4 or 5 wire ohmmeter, or an ohmmeter that can be zeroed or a constant current source, you'll have to resort to another technique using an ammeter or known resistor and a voltmeter.

An example, you should be able to get a 10 ohm precision resistor of sufficient wattage and a D battery. I = 12/(10+0.3) is a little over an amp. P = I*I*R or 1*1*10 or about 10 Watts.

you can add 3 Amp fuse to. So, what you need to do is put a voltage source, fuse, known resistor that won't damage anything.

I'd recommend making your own 4-terminal resistor. Take a small size wire and a large AWG wire and solder to each end. The large wires will be current and the small wires voltage. Initially use the Ammeter function of your meter (again pay attention to the internal resistance to the point that it will current limit stuff). The current is the same everywhere and the Voltage is defined to be those two small wires (Say 22 AWG). By using R - V/I, you now have the value of your precision shunt. You will need two DVM's this way.

Now use the shunt, fuse, battery. And power supply and do the same thing. Measure the voltage across the resistor and the voltage across the coils. Do the math to determine current and finally resistance of the windings.

Instead of the fuse, you could substitute 1 or 2 12 V high intensity lamps in parallel for the fuse. The light bulb is a current dependent resistor. So if you use 12 v supply and a 1.5 Amp bub, the current will be limited to 1.5 Amps.

So, you really have to measure the VOLTAGE ACROSS the DUT (Device Under test) and the CURRENT through the DUT using currents and voltages that don't damage. Paying attention to protections like a light bulb and current limiting caused by the shunt in your ammeter.

if you have an ammeter, a voltmeter and a variable power supply either current limited or with a fuse in series, life is easier.

Measuring 2 ohms with your run of the mill DVM is nonsense. Using a 4 or 5 terminal DVM, now we are talking.

Non-use may actually mean that the generator needs reflashing to put the residual magnetic field back. Polarity needs to be right.

I hope this makes sense.