My washing machine water exhaust tube is connected to a verticle drain pipe for water outflow. At the bottom of this pipe, there appears to be a P-trap section. Attached to the P-trap is a tube that runs all the way up the roof and also down to the ground. It believe that the tube that goes to the roof is used as a clean-out access to run a snake in case the drain is clogged. I noticed that there is a severe crack where the clean-out tube meets the junction of the p-trap junction section. The washing machine is in the garage.

I noticed that there is a severe crack where the clean-out tube meets the "T-junction". How difficult is this ptrap junction to replace. Is this something that I should call in the experts or DIY can handle it?


Clean out tube access from roof
|
| <--- cracked
|__ ptrap________ | washing machine verticle drain
|
Down drain to sewege system
</pre>

Thanks
- J

Hey Jipster, The Speedster here.

While the pipe from the roof can be used as a cleanout it's main function is a vent.
Since you've failed to tell me exactly where the crack is or the material the pipes are made of I can only make some guesses.
If the crack is in the tee itself the vent will have to be cut and a new sanitary tee installed. If it's in the nipple from the tee to the trap then a coupling may by used and a new trap and standpipe installed. Until I know the exact locatation of the crack and the material the pipes consist of I can't advise you any farther. Let me know, Tom

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by speedball1

Hey Jipster, The Speedster here.

While the pipe from the roof can be used as a cleanout it's main function is a vent.
Since you've failed to tell me exactly where the crack is or the material the pipes are made of I can only make some guesses.
If the crack is in the tee itself the vent will have to be cut and a new sanitary tee installed. If it's in the nipple from the tee to the trap then a coupling may by used and a new trap and standpipe installed. Until I know the exact locatation of the crack and the material the pipes consist of I can't advise you any farther. Let me know, Tom

---

Hi Speedball1,

Thanks for the reply.
It turned out that the vent pipe connected to the T-junction rusted pretty badly because it is made of galvanized steel and corroded over the years. The thread from the vent pipe adhered to the cast iron t-junction so it was impossible to put in a new threaded pipe without having some sort of equipment/tool to tap new threads.

Replacing the cast iron t-junction would have been a pretty significant job which would require removing the outer wall in order to turn the T-junction to unscrew it from the down pipe. This is definitely isn't something that I would/could do, so I came up w/ a work around.

The outer diameter of the cast iron T-junction hole where the 1.5" exhaust pipe fits is 2 5/8". I picked up a rubber 2" to 1.5" coupler at Lowe's for about $5 and convinced it to fix over the 2 5/8" hole. I then secured the coupler by tightening the strap. No water leaked, so I am back in business. The good thing about this solution is that if I ever need to clean out a blockage, I can easily remove the coupler and have direct access to the downpipe with a snake.

The bottom line is if it doesn't fit, force it!

Thanks
- J

Hey Jip! Glad you're back in business. I would have removed the galvanized nipple and worked a small sharp chisel under the broken threads and levered them out. Then I would have installed the trap and raiser back with a new nipple. But hey! If it works for you, it works for me. Good luck, Tom

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by speedball1

Hey Jip! Glad you're back in business. I would have removed the galvanized nipple and worked a small sharp chisel under the broken threads and levered them out. then I would have installed the trap and raiser back with a new nipple. But hey!! If it works for you, it works for me. Good luck, Tom

---

I did try to chisel approach and wasn't very succesfull. I wasn't able to reach to about 50% of the thread because of the wall. I would have to had remove the outer wall to remove the p-trap. I am just glad it worked out for me. Thanks for the advice. I think your approach is the professional way of doing things right. :)

Thanks
- J